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Comments
Also, I only looked briefly (I literaly just bought the car and have not had a lot of time to read throught the manual), but I could not find in the manual what kind of headlights to buy. Right now both my headlights are out and the manual says, "Go to our dealer." I would like to stop driving with my brights on, but dealers are too expensive and time consuming...
Best Regards,
Shipo
http://home.comcast.net/~slashpub/headlights/ReplacingHeadlightBulbs.pdf
You could try Auto-Rx. It certainly has it's followers, although I've never used it. http://www.auto-rx.com/
I bought the Passat as a salvage/rebuild. It was stolen and recovered. I had it checked out at a VW dealer and it has not been in an accident or had any major work done. However, it voids any warranty. It is in great shape, but the dealership warned me about the sludge. They actually told me not to get it. However, I got it for $7500 (no tax) with leather, sunroof, monsoon radio and a bunch of other stuff I do not normally need, but is nice to have. Under 50000 miles too. So even if I have to do some engine work, I will come out ahead...
Ummm...it's a Volkswagen...time will tell if your statement is correct or not!
Also, all links I have followed from this site to VW info take me to the same generic VW site that does not have the info (http://www.vw.com/myvw/yourcar/servicecenter/en/us/). The VW site really sucks and I cannot find any information on it.
Best Regards,
Shipo
On the other hand, the car drives perfectly, and maybe I got to it early enough. Regardless, I want to make sure I do whatever I can to make this car last at least another 150,000 miles - that will be about 3 years for me...
The bilge water fabricators over at Amsoil are quite famous for making all kinds of bold claims that are either unproven and/or sound good but are completely irrelevant (thinking of their bogus 4-ball test that has absolutely no relevance to engine lubrication). Regarding their Euro Formula 5W-40 that is allegedly 503.01 compliant, there are no standards organizations that have ever certified that fact, and as such, we are forced to decide whether we are going to take Amsoil's self serving word for it or not. Personally I chose not to believe them.
Given that Amsoil's "(AFL) European Car Formula Synthetic 5W-40 Motor Oil" is NOT 503.01 certified (or even 502.00 for that matter) and is NOT on VW's approved oil list, and given that I don't like buying products from companies that use business practices that I abhor, there is no way I'd put that stuff in any of my cars. Period, full stop, the end.
Best Regards,
Shipo
FWIW, I try to council people to make the best educated decision they are capable of making. With that in mind, I personally don't want to convince you (or anybody else for that matter), to do anything other than what you (or they) feel is the best for your (or their) situation. That said, while I believe that German made Castrol 0W-30 or Mobil 1 0W-40 is the best oil for your engine, the proper thing for me to do is to point you to resources such as sites that offer Used Oil Analysis (UOA) services ( http://www.blackstone-labs.com ) and sites that post UOAs from other folks to use for comparison purposes ( http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/postlist.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB3 ).
I hope this helps. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
I am looking at buying ARX to help desludge my engine in my 2003 1.8T Passat. However, the directions tell you to use non-synthetic only. I emailed Frank Miller, the inventor, asking about this vs. what VW says in using 503.01 cert oil. Here is his response (sorry, this post may get long):
"Please go to www.auto-rx.com and read FAQ. You can't use synthetic oil in either clean or rinse mode as it helps create sludge. Please read sludge application again you need to use non synthetic only. Regular oil does not create sludge (it is the additive package in synthetic oil that is the problem) One of these additives hold the oil to the metal. The only reason VW says to use synthetic is for it's anti heat properties. I assure you Super Walmart with Auto-Rx will keep turbo or non turbo cooler. Please visit the VW Passat Message Board We have cleaned over 200 VW engines. i am concerned you did not read the application for sludge correctly as part of keeping the sludge liquefied calls for a maitenance dose of Auto-Rx every oil change. This starts after engine cleaning is done. By the way you need 3 bottles of Auto-Rx.
Frank Miller
Inventor"
He is a little hard to follow at times due to missing words and punctuation (no offense Frank - we are all a little ADHD), but he basically says NOT TO USE SYNTHETIC. He says to use dino oil while treating with ARX and continue with DINO after with a maintenanc dose of ARX.
First of all, what do you guys think?
Second, if I use the ARX, he says, "For vehicles under 100,000 miles and in good condition a Group III synthetic oil is acceptable for use with Auto-Rx®. Group III synthetic oils include Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol Syntec, and Valvoline Synpower." I assume this is NOT the German Castrol 0W-30 he is referring to as it is a TRUE synthetic.
I have looked at some other forums and have seen some evidence that ARX does still help prevent sludge build up when used with Mobil 1 0W-40. But they tested on pennies using Mobil 1, Mobil 1 with ARX and pink GC (I am sorry guys, I forgot to bookmark the link for the forum and now I cannot find it).
Reiterating a few questions I have:
What do you think of ARX?
If you used ARX on my Passat, which oil would you use with it?
What is pink GC? I think it was pink GC. I figured out the GC is German Castrol and I read a few posts about comparing it to Gold GC, but thinking the Gold GC is inferior...
- The general reputation (which dovetails with my own personal experience) of synthetic oil suggests that if anything, engines sludge FAR LESS when lubricated with synthetic oil.
- When VW and Audi first released the 1.8T to the market, they didn't have a synthetic oil requirement in place. Engines sludged like crazy as a result. Then in the 2002-2003 timeframe, VWoA retroactively changed the oil requirement, making synthetic oil the only oil now approved for use in these engines. If conventional oil was better for the 1.8T, why did they sludge, and why did VWoA switch to synthetic?
- After owning a number of turbocharged engines (at the same time as both family and friends owned the identical engine), I would never use a non-PAO based oil in one. Why? Each of my turbocharged engines had over 100,000 miles on the factory turbocharger when I sold the car, that said, not one of the cars owned by my "people" made it past 60,000 miles without a turbocharger replacement (one needed two before 90,000 miles). The difference? I ran Mobil 1, the others didn't.
- Splitting hairs a bit here, if you do decide to go the Auto RX route, domestic Castrol Syntec 5W-40 is both Group III and 502.00 certified.
I've always been suspicious of the Auto RX claims, and your post of Frankie's comments just underscores that suspicion.
I don't know of this helps or not, but there it is.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Your thoughts are inline with what I had been thinking. Frank's suggestions just did not add up. However, I have read a lot about the success of ARX, even in my engine.
I will try the ARX with the Castrol Syntec 5W-30 (since it is at least 502.00 cert). After the treatment, however, I will go back to a 503.01 cert.
I know you are a Mobil 1 user. Talk to me about some of the things I have read about "Green GC" being better than the newer Gold GC and even better than Mobil 1. From what I read, the older "Green GC" does not seem to be available or is harder to get. It also protected against build up better than M1 in "at home" studies. I emphasize at home...
Hey - I found the link!!
link title
I'm thinking that that thread is a repost from somewhere else as I distinctly remember reading it a couple of years ago (although I have no idea were I read it). Back then the test was pretty much debunked as irrelevant; once again, I don't remember what the specific points were.
Thinking about this further, I was trying to remember if I could mentally identify any copper components in any engine that I'd ever torn down, and I couldn't. I then took a look at a recent VOA and UOA from one of our engines. The VOA shows that the Mobil 1 0W-40 that I put in had zero copper in the oil when new. The UOA after 11,000 miles shows that there is a very small amount of copper in the oil, approximately 8 ppm, so obviously there are some parts that use copper (maybe a component of bearing material?).
Another knock against that test is that it held the oil at temperatures of ~330 degrees for nine hours, a completely unrealistic test as oil, even in the new "HOT" running BMW 335i only gets up to that temperature after a severe thrashing on a track, and even then only on cars without the oil cooler. A much more typical average oil temperature for engines driven on the street is an easy 100-150 degrees cooler than what was used in that test.
Regarding the different German made Castrol (GC) Syntec 0W-30s on the market, I've heard allegations that some are better than others; however, I've never seen any scientific proof to support said allegations.
Best Regards,
Shipo
You are right - the test was full of mistakes. But it got me reading more about the different oils and people's beliefs on them. I have always used regualar ol' dino oils or whatever the oil change place used. My last car was a 98 camry - just change the oil and go!
I am fortunate enough now to have a father-in-law that is a major gear-head and he helps me do my own basic work on my car. Plus, now that I am driving an engine that is just a bit more sophisticated, it has me reading whatever I can.
Of course, the problem is, you start reading a blog and cannot understand half of the phrases they use! I think understanding the acronyms and terminology may be harder than understanding the engine itself...
I used to use Syntec on my 1.8T. I just switched to Elf Excellium LDX 5w40 (ordered via germanautoparts.com) which is a fully synthetic Group IV oil on the VW 502.00 list. I figured the European sourced companies are more averse to hydrocracking their oils than the U.S. sourced companies.
Besides, ELF has been a longtime player on the demanding European formula one circuit. If its good enough for formula one cars, its good enough for me...
BTW - I'm definitely with you on your opinion of Amsoil, Shipo. I have a saying - "If it's not on the list (VW 502.00 or 503.01), it's not going into my vehicle"... :shades:
I will try the ARX with the Castrol Syntec 5W-30 (since it is at least 502.00 cert). After the treatment, however, I will go back to a 503.01 cert.
I didn't check Catrol's website, but I'm pretty sure that Castrol Syntec in the 5w-30 flavor IS NOT 502.00 compliant.
Good catch, I believe you're correct. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
Anyway, I get my car back from the dealer and I check the repair form just to review all of the parts, labor, etc and to look at the oil they used. Lo and behold, they put 5W-30 oil in. This is after they just replaced a sludged engine. I couldn't get over it. You would think they would go out of their way to make sure all precautions are taken with this new engine. However, perhaps because the new warranty is only 12 months/12,000 miles they figure that an oil sludge problem won't show up during that time.
Needless to say, after I give the car a 500-1000 mile break-in, I will immediately go have an oil change with synthetic oil. I'll be going with Mobil 1 0w-30. Thanks to Shipo for the information on the oil.
Best Regards,
Shipo
In fact, maybe I'd go back to the dealer at 500 miles and say they owe you a synth oil change.
And, maybe you made a typo, but you'll want Mobil 1 0w-40, not 0w-30.
Agreed.
gwiz, as far as I know, the only 0W-30 that is certified to meet 502.00 (and as it so happes 503.01 as well) is the German made Castrol Syntec 0W-30, which by all accounts is a very good oil for your car.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Thanks to both of you for your insight.
I will try the ARX with the Castrol Syntec 5W-30 (since it is at least 502.00 cert). After the treatment, however, I will go back to a 503.01 cert.
I didn't check Catrol's website, but I'm pretty sure that Castrol Syntec in the 5w-30 flavor IS NOT 502.00 compliant.
My bad - Shipo wrote 5W-40 and for some reason I wrote 5W-30.
Which is precisely (for my two 1.8Ts) why I bring my own VW 502.00 compliant oil to the dealer every oil change. I also staple the receipts of the purchased oil to the dealer's oil change receipt and file it away - just in case its needed in the future.
The oil that I use nowadays is Elf Excellium LDX 5w40 which is a fully synthetic Group IV European motor oil on the VW 502.00 compliance list (Group IV and Group V motor oils are made from a purely synthetic base stock). The dealer uses Castrol Syntec 5w40 which is a group III synthetic (Group III synthetics are made from a petroleum base stock which has been highly refined, or "hydrocracked" to remove the impurities).
The following oils on the VW compliance list are confirmed as Group IV oils:
Elf Excellium LDX 5w40 (Europe)
Mobil 1 0w40 European Formula
Motul 8100 X-cess (Europe)
Castrol Syntec 0w30 (Europe)
The others on the list are U.S.-sourced oils, and are more than likely hydrocracked Group III synthetics:
Castol Syntec 5w40
Chevron Supreme Synthetic 5w40
Kendall GT-1 Synthetic 5w40
Pennzoil Synthetic "European Formula" 5w30
Pennzoil Synthetic "European Formula" 5w40
Quaker State Synthetic "European Formula" 5w30
Quaker State Synthetic "European Formula" 5w40
76 Pure Synthetic Motor Oil 5w40
Texaco Havoline Synthetic 5w40
Total Quartz 9000 5w40
Valvoline Synpower 5w30
Valvoline Synpower 5w40
Any other oil like Amsoil, etc. are not on this list and should be avoided if you value your engine warranty....
I checked the receipt again this morning and saw that the oil used was Shell 5w-30, which I believe is made by Penzoil. I know it is a petroleum-based oil, simply based on the price listed on-line of $2.29 per quart.
I will definitely be going with Mobil 1 0w-40 very shortly.
Krzys
The others on the list are U.S.-sourced oils, and are more than likely hydrocracked Group III synthetics:
Castol Syntec 5w40
Chevron Supreme Synthetic 5w40
Kendall GT-1 Synthetic 5w40
Pennzoil Synthetic "European Formula" 5w30
Pennzoil Synthetic "European Formula" 5w40
Quaker State Synthetic "European Formula" 5w30
Quaker State Synthetic "European Formula" 5w40
76 Pure Synthetic Motor Oil 5w40
Texaco Havoline Synthetic 5w40
Total Quartz 9000 5w40
Valvoline Synpower 5w30
Valvoline Synpower 5w40
Just a warning on that Valvoline Synpower 5w-30....
When I saw the original worldwide 502.00 oil list, I checked the US websites to make sure they were correct. What I found was that Valvoline Synpower 5w-30 in the US is NOT COMPLIANT with 502.00. I even emailed Valvoline and they confirmed it.
However, that same grade is compliant in Europe (if you looked at the product info sheets, you'd see immediately that they are different formulations). Valvoline is obviously brewing different flavors of the same grade in Europe and North America.
One product I didn't see mentioned in your list is Valvoline's Maxlife Full Synthetic in 5w-30 is noted as being 502.00/505.00 compliant (but not 503.01). http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=101
And that is exactly why I'm skeptical of Valvoline's claim that this oil is a Group IV synthetic.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Also, anyone know the size of the gas tank in a 2003 1.8T? I am pretty sure the spec sheet in the manual says 16 or 16.5, but there is no way my car holds that much. I run it almost down to 0 miles left and barely fill it with 14 gallons.
Fuel: The tank is listed as 16.4 US gallons. The fuel gauge and the trip computer are very conservative (they really don't want you to run the thing dry!). In my case, it will take about 12.25 gallons if I immediately fill up when the chime sounds. You can easily run it down to zero miles on the trip computer and further, but I don't recommend it. You risk your fuel pump and your cats if it runs out of gas.
I just got the Mann W940/25 filter from germanautoparts.com. It is enormous. 4.2 quarts sound right?
As far as my two 1.8Ts are concerned, I will continue using another Group IV oil - Elf Excellium NDX 5w40 (Now known as ELF Excellium NF). Castrol and Elf are two of four motor oils (currently on 502.00 spec) that are approved for the 503.01 spec. I believe Mobil 1 and Motul are the other two.
Mobil 1 0W-40
Castol Syntec 0W-30
Elf Excellium LDX 0W-30
Motul 8100 X-lite 0W-30
I guess we'll find out what other brands wind up on the list when the smoke clears...
VW 500.00
This is an “old” oil specification and is applicable to engines built before model year 2000 (up to August 1999)
Viscosity ratings: SAE 5w-40, 10w-40 or 20w-40
This oil can be used in all petrol and some diesel engines, apart from those referred to under other specifications.
VW 501.01
This is another “old” oil specification with exactly the same application as
VW 500.00.
Viscosity ratings: SAE 10w-40, 15w-40 or 20w-40
VW 502.00
This oil can only be used in petrol engines and is recommended for those which are subject to arduous conditions. It must not be used for any engines with variable service intervals or any which are referred to under other specifications.
Viscosity ratings: SAE 0w-40, 5w-40 or 10w-40
VW 503.00
This is a relatively new oil specification for petrol engines with variable service intervals. It includes the AUDI S4, but not the RS4, or the TT and S3 with outputs of more than 180bhp.
Viscosity rating: SAE 0w-30
VW 503.01
A new oil specification specifically for the RS4, and the TT and S3 with outputs of more than 180bhp, Passat W8 and Phaeton W12.
Viscosity rating: 0w-30
VW 505.00
For all diesel engines prior to model year 2000 (August 1999)
Viscosity rating: 0w-40, 5w-40 or 10w-40
VW 505.01
For all diesel engines with unit injectors (Pumpe-Duse or PD) without variable service intervals.
Viscosity rating: SAE 5w-40
VW 506.00
For all diesel engines except those with unit injectors, with variable service intervals.
Viscosity rating: SAE 0w-30
VW 506.01
For all diesel engines, including those with unit injectors, with variable service intervals.
Viscosity rating: SAE 0w-30
Hopefully this will prove to be informative...
As I previously posted a few months ago, I've been using about 1 Qt of oil every 1,000 miles. The oil consumption issue only started at about 25,000 miles. Prior to that period, I didn't use any oil between oil changes. (5,000 miles).
My Dealer confirmed with my local VW Rep that my excessive oil consumption IS A PROBLEM!
The Dealer finally tracked the problem down to the Turbo. They are going to replace it under warranty on 12/17/07.
I'll post another message if the Turbo replacement doesn't fix the problem.
That is indeed good news! Hopefully the new Turbo will resolve the issue.
In the meantime, I would ask your dealer what kind of oil they use. If they say Castrol Syntec - ask them what viscosity it is. If it's 0w30 (Group IV synthetic made in Germany), then continue to use the dealer's oil. If they say 5w-40, go to AutoZone and purchase 5 qts. of Castrol Syntec 0w30 (make sure it says "Made in Germany" on the bottle), and insist that your dealership use it.
The Syntec 5W40 is known as a Group III synthetic oil, which means they took dino petroleum base oil stocks and refined the impurities out of it so it performs similar to a true synthetic. This oil conforms to the older VW 502.00 specification which covers turbocharged engines up to 180 horsepower.
Syntec 0w30 (Made in Germany) is known as a Group IV synthetic oil, which is made from purely synthetic base stocks. This oil conforms to the newer VW 503.01 specification for turbocharged engines with an output of 180 horsepower and higher.
As an added measure, take the oil receipt and staple it to the back of the dealer's receipt after each oil change to cover yourself so the dealer (or VWoA) doesn't give you a bunch of crap in the event of an oil-related engine warranty claim.
When I have an oil change done on my two 1.8Ts (2003 Jetta & 2003 Passat), I bring my own oil to the dealership.
HTH, and good luck to a fellow veteran (I'm an Air Force veteran)...