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Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
I have VW Passat GLS 2005. It uses synthetic oil. What is the recommended frequency for changing the oil in this car?
Thank you very much.
FWIW, this type of information is most likely spelled out in your Owner's Manual (assuming that you have one).
Best Regards,
Shipo
thanks,
alen3.
Long answer: Go back to message 1 of this discussion and read every post.
Best Regards,
Shipo
thanks,
alen3
I don't believe that you can. FWIW, most cars with ABS run an ABS diagnostic following startup, and during the diagnostic the ABS light is illuminated.
"Is it ok to put regular 87 fuel in the car or should I stick with 91."
Why would you want to? Most tests that I've seen clearly indicate that virtually every car sold in North America that "Recommends" or "Requires" Premium gasoline (the VW/Audi 1.8T included) will drop far enough in fuel economy to actually make fuel cost per mile go UP when using Regular gasoline.
So, running Regular in your car will:
- Drop your fuel economy
- Increase your per mile cost
- Reduce your available power
- Force your ingnition system to work overtime to keep the timing retarded enough to prevent your engine from self destructing
Given those points, most folks consider running Regular fuel in these engines as a "fools economy".
Best Regards,
Shipo
If the car has at least 65,000 miles on it, make sure the timing belt has been changed. Since you have a pre-2001.5 model, the water pump on this car is the older aluminum-type which should last at least 150,000+ miles (the water pump on the 2001.5 and later models have a plastic impeller which must be changed every 60,000 - 65,000 miles).
As long as you use the motor oils Shipo mentioned and use only G12 (red) coolant for the cooling system, you should be fine. Also, if you are parking your car immediately after a high-speed highway run, make sure you idle the car for a couple of minutes so the engine oil can properly cool down the turbo's bearing (preventing an overcooking oil condition called coking - which has the potential to cause serious engine problems).
Good Luck, and many happy miles...
Timing Belt
OE Updated Tensioner
OE Tensioner Roller
OE Idler Roller
Camshaft seal
Crankshaft seal
Hepu Metal OE Water Pump (half) with gasket
Behr OE Thermostat with O-ring
Conti-Tech A/C Belt
Conti-Tech P/S Belt
Conti-Tech Alternator Belt
2) 1.5 Liter bottles of G12 Coolant
As a 25+ year owner/mechanic of VWs including a pair of 2003 1.8Ts with 77,000 and 110,000 miles respectively (not to mention being a VAG-COM owner) - I've already got that covered, chief. The timing belt service was done on both cars at 65,000 with the complete timing belt service kit from germanautoparts.com - which includes all of the parts you mentioned - especially the Hepu water pump with the metal impeller.
Been there, done that...
Now soon after I bought it, my car began slipping gears. It got so bad I had to shift manually. It was never in the right gear, sometimes it would pull out of an interesection in 3rd gear and just dog along. I discovered the only way to make my car run correctly, was to floor it. As odd as that sounds, every time I floored my car it stopped slipping gears, stopped slamming into gears, and ran fine. I no longer had to manually shift it. So i thought I was alright.
Well about a week ago my car started doing something else. It stopping shifting right altogether. It wouldn't go out of first gear until (according to the RPM gage on the dashboard) it hit bewteen 40 RPM's and 45 RPM's. But it has quit slipping gears. Then between 2nd and 3rd gear, it wouldn't shift until it hit around 50 RPM's. Even then it was sometimes a fight to get it into 3rd. The ONLY way to get it to shift is - you guessed it - flooring it. Once I did that it would go into the right gear, and not mess up, and continually shift correctly until I stopped the vehicle.
Now the computer in my vehicle was thinking that every time I hit the gas on my car, that I was flooring it. When I actually did put the pedal to the medal it seemed to override that and run properly. It got continually confused, sometimes on my dashboard all the gears would highlight like my car didn't know what gear it was in. Also, when i pulled out from places or headed uphill, it would jerk forward and back for a few seconds until I floored it. It was explained to me that this computer thought I was hitting the brake and gas at the same time to cause that effect. Now my mechanic has replaced this computer, which resolved some of the problems, but my car is still not sure what gear to go in or what gear it is in.
Also my car is suffering from a mystery oil loss. I have to add about a quart every 2 ro 3 weeks. It is not burning any (nothing coming from the exhaust except in extreeme cold weather) and not dripping anything (I keep a close eye on it and have had my mechanic take a look at a few times).
It has stumped me and everyone else I know.
Has anyone else had this problem or one similiar to it? Or perhaps know what could be wrong? I appreciate any response!
0w-40 Quick Facts
0w-40 Product Data Sheet
FWIW, the Mobil 1 oil can also be found at our local Walmart as well as many of our local NAPA dealers.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I hope this helps..
As for my oil pressure / sludge problem I have chosen to try the Auto-RX cleaning procedure. http://www.auto-rx.com/pages/heavy_sludge_app.html
FWIW... This oil pressure / sludge problem has manifested itself in a cam chain tensioner indicator code in the computer and a dash oil light on a few occaisions. VW wants to replace the Cam Chain Tensioner, a $900 repair. I figure the Auto-RX solution (about a $60 endeavor) was worth a try.
Jim
Keep us posted.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I was told that the the VW 1.8 turbo's heat will slug the oil as there is no after oil cooler; moreover, the oil pan is too small to allow for adequate heat dissipation. The best prevention: don't skimp on non-synthetic oil (use recommended oil--see manual) and have the dealer run a cleaning/deslug procedure ever 20,000 miles (about $100). The synthetic oil should be changed at 7,000 or when it gets dirty looking (dark), which ever occurs first (my experience is about 5,000 or 6,000 miles).
The fix: The dealer checked for cam and crank wear, saw none... and cleaned/replaced the oil pump pick up screen. Then ran some sort of approved solvent/oil mixture through the engine to clean it and changed the oil twice. The total bill was about $650, but VW's warrantee took care of the bill.
I believe it is well worth the effort to keep the engine running clean and correctly. Afterall it is a well performing vehicle, otherwise. Also, note that the mechanic said that the engine has such low tolerances that it is best to use the oil specified to ensure low engine wear and problems. Do not use cheep oil, for your own good.
I'm not sure where you get your information from, but 7,000 miles in a 1.8T, even on the best synthetic oil, is waaaay too far. Per your manual, 5,000 miles is the maximum oil change interval, and not just any synthetic oil will do as only oils that are certified to meet the 502.00 and/or 503.01 VW oil spec should be used.
Regarding how oil looks, its relative darkness is completely irrelevant, there are plenty of used oils that are as dark as coal that are still extremely serviceable where there are other used oils that are as amber as honey that are completely exhausted. The only way to know for sure of your oil is holding up is to have it analyzed.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Like shipo wrote the max OCI is 5000 miles. The oil MUST meet VW oil spec 502.00 or, if you are really crazy, newer 503.01.
No car should require regular desludging.
Krzys
PS I have Subaru Legacy GT (the one with turbo engine). Subaru started with 7500 miles OCI but recently changed spec for newer cars claiming that all turbo engines should be maintained per severe service schedule (3750 miles OCI).
If you ever check back here, did the dealership perform an oil consumption test? What was the consumption rate (how many miles to a quart of oil)?
Have a 2002 Passat 1.8T bought with 8500 mi on it in Sept 2003, currently have 26,150. Have no idea what oil was used before I bought it and what I used afterwards was whatever Walmart/Auto Care Center had that was called for in the book. I have been reading this forum for awhile now since I had heard about the sludge problem so now I have ordered the Mann filters (larger ones) that are VW specs and have the suggested Mobil 1 0W40 and drain bolt gasket. Now for the question: Is there anything I need to do in particular before I change the oil and put the new "good" stuff in? Am doing it myself.
Thanks,
laottoman
thanks
Best Regards,
Shipo
Danke
The tiptronic's transmission control module is under the front passenger's side carpet, in a well. Has your car had any water intrusion issues? Sometimes the TCM goes wack if that occurs. You might want to check your floors for signs of water. Also check under the hood to see if the air plenum (the area where the battery lives) is holding any water from clogged drains under the battery and brake booster.
Danke Altair...
Much obliged,
alen
thanks a bunch
alen
First, you must use the appropriate G12 coolant. Mixing G12 with other coolants will cause serious problems, like having the coolant gel, mandating a complete flush.
Second, assuming you know nothing about adding coolant, remember that the cooling system is under pressure when the engine is warm or hot. Only open the reservoir when the engine is cold to prevent being scalded.
When you mentioned the hydraulic fluid, are you referring to the power steering fluid or the brake fluid? At which reservoir are you looking?
P.S. thanks to laottoman for his previous post
That sounds right...
Just a little advice here for other readers. If you go somewhere to get your oil changed, don't let the shop top off your fluids as they customarily do unless you know for sure they have what it takes.
Some of you guys that are more knowledgeable than I can probably confirm this. Just think, if they put something in your coolant other than G12 what will happen, gel up.
Now of course some of them are just kids and don't know any better or are doing what the boss says, but you'll end up paying for it in the end.
I've been guilty of going off fat, dumb and happy too, but not any more. Will pay very close attention if I don't do it myself.
I have to say this, getting off the track...but the oil filter I put on my Passat is a Mann (german made big filter)..called for by VW...well, I also have a Honda Ridgeline with a V6...that oil filter is dinky, dinky, dinky...lol..Frame PH 7317.
Do a search on google or one of the other search engines and I'm sure you'll find a place with a price to fit your wallet.
Do be careful though, don't order the CHF 7 or some of the other CHF's... they don't mix.