Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
It seems fine during acceleration and at idle, other than SOME CLANKING SOUNDS AT IDLE (not sure if this has anything to do with the problem or not), but as soon as I try to maintain a constant speed, it starts to hiccup every couple seconds. I am not experienced in auto repair, but research points me towards fuel pump and/or filter. Is there a way to diagnose this without fancy tools? A fuel pump is a lot more to replace than just the filter, so is there a way to differentiate which might be bad, if either? Other ideas???
Thanks so much.
Good luck
Thanks in Advance
Aaron
Same thing happen to me. I will appreciate any timing information
Thanks
PG
If you have compression in all cylinders, your truck was probably at idle or running at a very low RPM when the chain broke. You are lucky and won't have to pull the head.
Next, when you start to pull the timing gear cover off, the book I had told me to drop the oil pan. DON'T DO IT. Instead, you can remove the two nuts that are on the very front of the oil pan. THEN, using a torx socket, remove the studs that go into the block. You'll see what I'm talking about once you're under there. It will save you a bunch of time. The timing gear cover can then be pulled towards the front of the vehicle instead of having to lift it UP, then forward. It's a very tight squeeze with this engine so the way I described worked best.
When I got ready to install the new chain and gear set, I set my #1 piston to TDC before re-installing the head.
Before you install the head (if you had to pull it), install the plate with the EGR valve and the fuel intake line as well. Believe me, you'll be a much happier person then trying to install those two items AFTER the head is mounted.
When you buy the new timing gear set, make sure you get a new tensioner as well. The new set will come with directions on how to align the marks and set the tension on the chain.
What I did was take a large piece of cardboard and for every bolt and stud that I removed, I stuck them through the cardboard, used a marker to put a box around the group of bolts and labeled them. That saved me a lot of time during reassembly. Good luck!
vi-kan
Not sure if you need to replace the dist or not, auto parts store would know.
thanks dave
would apriciate any help
What kind of code reading did it give? When you clear the code does the same code come back?
As to it running better when you unplug the sensor, I've read on some cars the E CC can go to a default mode when the sensor is taken out or goes out, like an O2 sensor for example.
At risk of being redundant, one of the first signs of a bad coil is it starts bucking when the engine labors on a long pull like going up a steep grade.
Good luck
Maybe it will help
Bob
Because when I'm ready, I'll dump the 4.3 when it's due time.
I might go to a lighter weight V8 like from a Lexus or Beamer.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2378/2000071501_23bcf8e618_o.jpg
Bob
drive the truck for 30 minutes I have to keep my
foot on the gas a little, because If I don't the
truck dies, and when I start it up it acts like the
battery doesn't have the volts, but it only does
this when the engine is normal temperature.
Please help me out on this!
if I don't keep my foot on the gas stopped,the truck will die and when I try to
start it up the starter tries to drag only when it dies.Please help me out with
a solution?
please help if you all have figured it out yet
This is exactly what was happening to my Dad's 1997 GMC Sonoma, we replaced the water pump and haven't had a problem since.
"a couple months ago it would randomly short and everything electrical in the car would turn off and on, and as time went on it would get worse and not come back on"
Is this while you were driving? Hitting any bumps? At Idle? When you say "not come back on" do you mean it wouldn't start or it didn't flicker off and back on like your lights in the house during a thunder storm? In all instances, I would check and make sure your battery cables are connected well to the frame for the ground points and to your starter/alternator on the hot side. There's something definitely loose on the ground or hot side OR rubbing between hot and ground somewhere creating a shot. Be sure to check and make sure all your fuses are in perfect order as well.
Was any electrical work done to it lately? New starter? Alternator? Stereo or alarm install? Subwoofer / Amp? After market DVD player? Sounds like it may be a dead short. Look for anyplace a hot wire may come into contact with ground. That's the reason for the questions about the electrical mods. I've seen where people install stereos themselves and tap into a hotwire under the dash and not insulate it where it rubs on the chassis or dash and shorts out.
Was the bolt on the fusebox a ground bolt? Check for more loose bolts in that area if the fusebox bolt was a grounding point. Loose connections will temporarily disconnect and surge power like you describe also.
That's the best advise I can give you with the information you posted.
Good luck,
vi-kan