Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Stalling/Dying Problems

135

Comments

  • vikanvikan Member Posts: 15
    lilgto,

    If you suspect the IAC, have you tested it yet? From what I've read, the IAC valve is something that receives data from other sensors as well. Coolant temp, AC, accessories etc. It is supposed to compensate for the load you are putting on the engine. i.e. if you turn the AC on while idling, the engine would normally slow down due to the increased load, thus making the IAC compensate for that and speed up the engine to keep is from stalling. If you disconnect the IAC while the engine is running and put a load on the engine, the engine should stall which indicates the IAC is working. If this is the case, the IAC probably isn't the problem.

    Sounds like it may be an air blockage issue. Maybe a vacuum line that is restricted or pinched that is plugged into the intake? You know how an engine will speed up if the choke is on? Same principle in my opinion.

    Good luck.
  • lilgtolilgto Member Posts: 12
    vikan,

    Thanks for responding, yes I have tested it and even changed it out but it has started happening again during the warm weather. I have been looking for vacum leaks for some time but so far nothing. I am thinking the problem might be in the PCM since the fast idle issue disappears whenever I shut the vehicle off and restart it. I will keep trying to figure this out since the mecnanics seemed to be puzzled. Once again, thank you for your prompt response.
  • vikanvikan Member Posts: 15
    lilg,

    After a quick search on google and reading from this Q & A, it sounds like there may be something shorting that leads back to the PCM. You might want to do a little reading here and maybe even post a question to these guys. I'd hate to see you spending money on guessing what might be wrong, only to have to spend more on something else. I know it gets frustrating so hang in there. Personally, I think at this point, I would attempt to find a schematic that shows you what connects to anything that has to do with idle speed.
    http://www.2carpros.com
    vikan
  • goxnergoxner Member Posts: 1
    i am experiencing an electrical issue with this vehicle. i am blowing fuses left and right. first it was the fuse for the guages. i unplugged the ac relay and that problem went away. not even a week later while driving home, the vehicle just dies. the fuse for the ECM Batt, blows. i replaced the fuse and restarted the vehicle with a little coaxing, it idles, but when i press the accelerator pedal, it starts to buck and sputter, then dies, blowing the fuse once again. the vehicle will move in reverse fine but when it is in drive it buck and dies. i have a mechanic chasing wires but has found nothing as far as a pinched wire or exposed wire causing the short. any help with this will greatly be appreciated.
  • lilgtolilgto Member Posts: 12
    vikan,

    Again, Thank you for the information, I will check out the link you provided and see what happens. I too have thought it was a short but then I was told by a good source it could actually be the PCM going bad...
  • fte003fte003 Member Posts: 2
    please someone..i need help.i have 1992 gmc sonoma 4.3 6 cyl 2wd

    i have had this truck for 3 years now..she's been a real good truck.. but the other day i got off the highway and came to a stop..and it just died..took about 45 minutes for it to start back up..got it about 4 miles more and it died again..took 2 hours for it to start again..got about 3 blocks and died..had it towed home the rest of the way.i have replace fuel pump,filter,thermostat,map sensor,throttle sensor, coil
    i can go ut side now and she will start right up but as soon as she warms up it dies.
    the igition works fine ..to me something is getting hot and shuts engine down till it cools back down...please if anyone can help i would be grateful this truck is my lively hood and i need her back on the road... thank s :sick:
  • fte003fte003 Member Posts: 2
    some one out Please see if u can help, i have a 1992 gmc sonoma. my problems started with fuel pump. i replaced fuel pump, filter. truck ran good again/ about week later i came off highway and it died. took about 45 min to start again got it about 3 miles and died again. took 2 hour for it to start.. got 3 blocks and once again it died. i then had it towed home. i had code check come up for map and throttle sensor..i have replaced them also now.
    i have even changed thermostat.. the problem i have when truck is cold it will start right up but once it warms up it shuts down..the igition cranks real good but it wont start. i have checked the coil
    it works..so if someone else has this problem and got it fixed please help..this truck is my lively hood and i need it back on the road. many thanks
  • vikanvikan Member Posts: 15
    Have you checked to make sure you have no air restriction? I'm assuming this vehicle has a throttle body. If it starts with no problem, remove the air cleaner. watch the butterfly on it to see if it closes on it's own once warmed up. Wrap the engine to see if it's operating properly. Next, I'd run it without the air cleaner (on the highway away from dusty environment) to see how it acts. If it does die, have someone crank the engine and see if your butterfly is in the closed position which would be choking it.

    Another thing to check is your vacuum lines going to the intake. If the idle seems rought spray a soapy water solution around the vacuum line fittings. If the idle smoothens when water is sprayed, you have a vacuum leak.

    The last possibility I can think of without spending a lot money is vapor lock. Make sure your vent lines for the fuel tank are not plugged. I believe the engine compartment holds the gas fume recycling canister (not the exact name) which has vent lines that run from the fuel tank to the canister (charcoal filled for emissions) and back to the tank again. The easy test would be to drive without your gas cap on.

    Good luck.
  • dallasman999dallasman999 Member Posts: 1
    after it dies spray some starter fluid into intake and see if it starts, if it does you have a fuel prob, if it doesn't you have an ignition prob. If it has an electronic ignition module i would suspect that, you may do a spark test after a no start
  • lranlran Member Posts: 1
    Hi all
    I am starting to have a issue. My truck ( 1996 jimmy v6 vortec) has ran flawless, but all of a sudden I will be driving down the highway and it just quits. I put it into neutral and it starts up and can drive again. Sometimes for an hour or 2, and sometimes it will do it again right away. This is happening when the vehicle is warm and at highway speed.
    When I am in town this rarely happens, it will only happen if I just came from the highway and am just getting into town it might just die.
    I thought it might be a bad batch of gas, but it has happened for a month now. I thought it might be a new stereo that I got put in, but it still happens when I leave the faceplate off the stereo. I am at a loss of what to start to check what is causing this as parts for this truck are extremally high. It has had regular oil changes and has recently had a tune up.

    thank you for any suggestions.
  • low70chevylow70chevy Member Posts: 1
    if i pour gas in to the throttle body it will start, and run for awhile then die in a few minutes, and when it is running it will idle and if im easy on the gas i can drive it for a short time but if i put the pedal to the floor it sputters, i have put new fuel pump with wires, mass air flow sensor, hollowed out the catalic converter, new ox sensors on exaust, i dont know what else to do, any help would be greatly apperacited
  • coolhand1coolhand1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 chevy s10 4.3 4wd auto, it runs good until it's warmed up, then once it's warm it seems to be not getting any fuel. It sputters and backfires and runs very sluggish, but it's not missin. I've changed the catalyc converter, O2 sensor, fuel filter, fuel pump, air filter. I don't know what else it could possibly be. Any suggestions would be highly appreciated.
  • ohiaboyohiaboy Member Posts: 4
    did you find a solution to this problem? email me at [email protected]...
    Thanks,
    Richard
  • gk10gk10 Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone found the answer to the S-10 acceleration/engine quit probem? I'm having the same problem with my 2000 S-10 as others have mentioned. One the engine has heated up (primarily in warm weather) pressing the gas pedal causes bouncing on the tachometer and loss of power. If I stop, I have to turn off the vehicle and restart to get it moving again - at a snails pace. The idle has started to increase and will pull the vehicle at about 25 mph if I don't tap the gas. I occasionally smell gas outside the vehicle if I recently filled the tank. the check engine warning light came on a couple of days ago. Last year I paid over $2,000 for transmission work which did not fix the problem. Before spending any more money I would like to have a good idea of what the problem is. Thanks! GK10
  • lilgtolilgto Member Posts: 12
    GK10,

    So far I have not been able to figure this problem out, yours sounds a little bit worse than mine but the same issue of once it gets warm the idle speeds up then after driving it for a little while it acts like the engine is starving for air. I will have to pull over, shut the engine off and start it back up again and it is fine (the idle returns to normal). I have 2 other sensors that I am going to replace to see if these are the problems. The Air Flow Sensor or the TPS (Throttle Pos Sensor) if these do not correct the problem I have been told the PCM may need replaced.
  • bigdazbigdaz Member Posts: 2
    I feel for you and all the rest with the stalling problem. My son's 1995 4cyl, 5spd S10 stalled at various run times (distances) over a 4 week time frame. Seemed like a heating problem (vapor lock or temp sensor causing the computer to shut the engine down). Changed the thermostat and fan clutch. No fix. When driving to troubleshoot had to get gas, noticed an abnormally long time of venting when cracking the fuel tank cap open. Left the gas cap off and low and behold no more stalling. Apparently we have a vacuum being created in the fuel tank as the fuel level drops which the fuel pump can't overcome. The stalling happens quicker the lower the fuel level in the tank. Checked the fuel tank cap for release of vacuum by applying a suction on the cap. It does slowly release the vacuum but not as fast as the vented gas cap in my '93 S10. I suspect I have a bad cap. It isn't clear from the manual I have if there is supposed to be an additional way to vent the vaccum out of the fuel tank other than the fuel tank cap. According to the maunal the charcoal vapor vent canister and closed fuel tank system wasn't implemented until 1996. Maybe our truck is a late '95 which includes the close system. Hope this helps you all out, Good Luck.
  • mthompson1mthompson1 Member Posts: 2
    I have an 88 S10 2.8 fuel injected 5 speed manual transmission. Truck will start, but will not stay running unless you feather the gas to try to keep it running. Once it backfires through the carb, it throws a code 24, which is a speed sensor. I cannot find this speed sensor. They say it is on the tail end of the transmission. There is no electric going to the back of the transmission. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, cleaned throttle body injectors, checked all wiring, grounds...still having problem. Is this possibly a computer problem?
  • hanesdhanesd Member Posts: 3
    crank sensor
  • hanesdhanesd Member Posts: 3
    my cat plugged up a while back and i just put a straight pipe on it, i was wondering if i could trick the 02 sensor because its running a litlle fat and i was wondering if i put a new cat on if it would clog up( if there is some reason it clogged up other than miles and age), truck has 130,000 miles it is a 2.2 liter engine i have a header on it. thank you
  • bethsmanbethsman Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 chevy S-10 with the 2.2 engine, manual trans. and 135K miles. My problems started about 2 weeks ago, when driving at a steady speed if I try to accelerate the engine tries to die. The best way I can describe it is, if you press the brakes to stop and don’t press the clutch that jerking motion the vehicle makes, it happens for a second then everything goes back to normal. Except for 2 times it did something different. One of the times I was in fifth gear and went to accelerate nothing happened (engine did not bog down or speed up). The gas pedal was all the way down to the floor after about 45 seconds the truck sped up. Then the other day I was making a right hand turn and all my lights dimmed and the oil gauge on the dash went to zero, my battery gauge went to about 9 I lost power steering. I thought my truck had stalled but the engine was still running and sounded really bogged down. After a minute of coasting the truck went back to normal and ran good the est of the way home. I have not drove it since. The plugs, wires are good. replaced the fuel filter, got gas from a different station but it did not help. I’m lost on what the problem is. I have been told it could be the fuel pump, short circuit, cam shaft position sensor, timing chain, injectors, or the computer. I'm getting no check engine lights. If you could give me any help it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for your help.
  • peterhaileypeterhailey Member Posts: 1
    anyone having an electrical problem on a chev s10 should read this. This actually happened to me. While crossing the burnside bridge my engine started cutting out. then the amp meter and speedometer went wacky. Then the fuel gauge went haywire, oil pressure fell to zero. I almost didn't make it home. A diode had gone out in the alternator. With everything being electronic these days the computer wasn't receiving info from the sensors. 2 years later while driving down the freeway the engine suddenly quit. I knew it was electrical. After a few minutes I found the problem. The negitive terminal on the battery had vibrated loose. Thats right! every eletronic system in the truck fails all at once with just one screw loose. If this were a military vehicle GM would be buying back everyone sold as new defective.
  • ortega1313ortega1313 Member Posts: 1
    Hey I was wondering if you ever got this resolved. I have the same exact truck and it's doing the same thing. I can't figure it out. Can you please let me know what you did to fix this problem. Thanks.
  • drew5385drew5385 Member Posts: 2
    ive been dealing with this problem for months now...replaced almost everything...fuel pump, spider injector(which was conversion to multiport), fuel filter, aif filter, spark plugs(twice) spark wires, distributo cap and rotor as well as distributor itself, alternator, battery, ignition coil, map sensor, catalytic convertor, but the truck still wants to buck and cut out when cruising on highway and either going uphill and putting it under a load...or just when i pass a car and come off the gas...does it one day, then not the next, then does it for a week straight, then it goes off....only thing is one day when i shimmied the main harness that runs across the intake plenum it kinda got better for a day or two....did it again and i got no help....im about two steps away from driving it over a cliff i need some help!!!
  • drew5385drew5385 Member Posts: 2
    almost forgot, MIL kicks on sometimes when it hesitates, codes is a po452 evap emissions, and when it gets bad i get a bunch of codes like tp sensor and map sensor, which i have already replaced both of those too.....
  • gk10gk10 Member Posts: 2
    I took my S-10 to three shops (Chevy dealer was the last one). Bottom line is that the fuel pump was not holding pressure while driving. I bought an "original equipment" fuel pump online and had the first shop install it. That resolved the problem. NOTE: Don't skimp on the replacement fuel pump - the off brand ones go bad within a few months. Good info from the mechanic.
  • hayman1hayman1 Member Posts: 2
    I'm having the same problem but hasn't thrown that code. Have you ever found the problem?
  • hayman1hayman1 Member Posts: 2
    I found the problem the small rubber line between the pump and line in the tank ruptured.
  • doc15doc15 Member Posts: 37
    Had my truck just stall while driving on the road. First thing I though of was maybe a fuel problem, changed the filter and still no luck. Did not think of it at first but realized the fuel pump was not kicking on, also found the battery was drained down. Took the alternator and had it checked and found it was charging at 17 V. Also found the ECM fuse was blown. Changed the fuse and the alternator and the truck started right up, ran for about 3 min and shut right off again. The ECM fuse keeps blowing. Replaced the Fuel pump relay and still no luck. When you turn the key on it instantly blows the ECM fuse. Take the fuel pump relay apart and the fuse does not blow, but naturally the truck won't start. Also just for the sake of spending money to help the economy, I replaced the ECM. Help!!!!!!!! Doc
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    As you know that fuse is also for the fuel pump. Disconnect the fuel pump at the tank, if it still blows, check the fuel pump wiring for a short to ground.
  • JAustJAust Member Posts: 1
    I have also done everything I could think of but still the truck will idle fine but won't move when driving. Fuel pump checked ok, new fuel filter, new air filter, spark plugs, spark wires, distributor cap and rotor. Truck still wants to buck and cut out when cruising going uphill and putting it under a load. Has anyone had any luck with cleaning up the injector contacts under the manifold cover or by replacing the PCM?
  • doc15doc15 Member Posts: 37
    What exactly goes bad with the fuel pump? Is it necessary to replace the whole inside the tank fuel pump to correct the problem? How hard is it to drop the tank on this truck? Sorry for all the questions, it's just things coming in my head, that I'm not looking forward to. Thanks, :sick: Doc
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    The motor part, the brushes wear out. They come as a module, the best prices are online, I recommend another Delco.
    If I was to do mine I would loosen all the bolts on the passenger side of the bed, leave the nuts on a few threads. Don't forget the wiring, ground, tail lights, fill hose etc.. Remove all the bolts on the driver side, jack up the driver side until you have enough clearance. You must trig the bed really good so it will not fall on you.
    Well dropping the tank is not too bad if empty, if lots of fuel you need a jack.
    FWIW the pumps don't usually blow the fuse, a short in the wiring would.
  • doc15doc15 Member Posts: 37
    Just to let you know, I did replace the fuel pump today, all went ok and the truck purrs like a kitten. Thanks for all your help. Do :shades: :)
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Thanks for the update.
  • doc15doc15 Member Posts: 37
    Have an overheating problem with my 93 Sonoma 4.3 EFI
    I can't seem to put enough water or coolant in the radiator. I fill it and can stand there and watch the level go down. The radiator just never seems to fill. The other thing is I turned on the heater and it started blowing hot air but then it turned cool. Don't know if these are connected or not? Any suggestions? Thanks, Doc
  • fws4fws4 Member Posts: 5
    My 1998 S 10 developed a bad leak in the exhaust flex pipe, and before I could fix it, it also developed a high idle at all times. Could the leak be causing the hi idle? I pulled codes 137, 451, and 507. Would the O2 code (137) cause hi idle? 507 is the Idle Control System, but I can't find the sensor to check it. Just started this, and trying to focus so I don't just start replacing working sensors. Cannot find any vacuum leaks so far. Cleaned the intake butterfly - it is closed at startup. Where can I find an illustration of sensor locations? My Haines manual doesn't show their locations. Thanks in advance.
    FredS
  • mrtruemrtrue Member Posts: 1
    With my '92 (4.3), the problem was solved by replacing the distributor. It seems that the magnetic pick up in the distributor signals the injectors when to fire, and with how much fuel, so when it gave a weak signal, there was virtually no stream of fuel, and them , after a few rotations there was a strong signal, plenty of fuel. Eventually almost no signal, so not even enough fuel to start the engine. Of course, to get to this conclusion, I first put a $50 ECM in the old distributor, and a $40 coil. Remember, electronic parts are non-returnable, so I would recommend changing out the $120 distributor rather than the ECM, as it solves many other ignition related issues on these older motors.
  • coffeenbeercoffeenbeer Member Posts: 1
    I see alot of you with the same problem I am having. My truck will all of a sudden bog down when I try to accelerate. If I'm really light on the pedal it will slowly get up to speed but if I give it a little gas the rpms hit about 2500 and the car doesn't move. I replace the fuel pump, filter, spark plugs and wires, cap and rotor, removed catalact converter. Its been checked twice by my mechanic. It may be that damn fuel pump even though its been tested. It wasn't oem though as most would recommend. I really wish I had one, I got a 1 year on the pump but I don't think I can actually get a refund. Is there anything anyone has figured out with this? :mad:
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    2500 rpm and not going anywhere sounds like a transmission problem, slipping.
  • slvchrisslvchris Member Posts: 1
    The truck shuts off when you turn the wheel all the way. Have replaced the ignition switch. sensor on power steering line. Checke dlines for blockage. This one has me stumped. Any help would be great. Thanks
  • dimmermanjdimmermanj Member Posts: 1
    So basically i have a 98 sonoma with about 125xxx miles on it.. i just bought it from a guy and he had told me truck ran fine and the fuel pump had recently been replaced.. what happens is i will drive down the road for almost exactly 10 miles or so, then the truck typically will surge and die, and will crank over but not start unless its left alone for about 5 min...the truck also spits out a obd2 code #1632 which is a theft deterrent fuel shutoff code..i was told a common result of this issue had to do with the ignition cylinder and the sensors surrounding it, so i replaced them, but here i am still with the same problem. does anyone have any advice on how to fix this or know what is causing the problem?
    -Jim
  • ernestdelernestdel Member Posts: 1
    when i mean hot i mean outside temp. 90 degree day. I`ve replaced ignition module,coil,distributor and rotor,fuel pump, fuel pump relay,crank shaft position pickup,fuel filter(of course),plugs and wires.On a hot day it will buck then shut down. 20 to 30 minutes of cool down it will start and run for miles. never a problem in winter. new thermostat, doestn`t really over heat, gauge reads 200f. any help appreciated.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Sounds like vapor lock, some where a fuel line is getting too hot.
  • slstusmcslstusmc Member Posts: 1
    My Dad's '94 Somoma has no fuel to the carb. What fuse supplies power to the pump, and where is it? The relay is under the dash in the middle, but which relay is it? I don't think there is voltage going to the pump. If it is the pump, I was told the best way to replace it would be to raise the bed. Can an aftermarket inline electric fuel pump work to replace the pump in the tank? Thanks for your help!!
  • bigdazbigdaz Member Posts: 2
    The final fix. Sorry for not getting this posted sooner. Removed the aluminum bracket that holds the ignition control electronics and coils. Cleaned up and insulated using fiber washers from ACE (to prevent heat transfer from the engine block thru the bracket into the ign cntl elec & coils. Applied generous anount of heat sink compound to the ign cntl elec and made a wire strap to connect the bracket to engine block just in case gnd is needed thru bracket. Stalling problem no more!!! You may need to also replace the ign cntl elec and/or coils if damaged by over heating.
  • mags468mags468 Member Posts: 10
    my sonoma started stalling while i would be going down the road. thenstart right back up on its own. then died completely and won`t start. put in a new fuel pump,filter to no avail. now had no juice going to the pump. traced it back to what i thought was the pump relay, replaced it. after a little bit of playing it started. i drove 300+ miles with no problems. next day it stalls and i have no juice, dash lights but the motor will roll over fine. this is a z motor. any ideas? thanks mags
  • chevy_schevy_s Member Posts: 1
    My 96 S10 makes ahissing noise under the dash when I use the brakes.
    It is getting harder to use the brakes.
    The fluid level has not changed.
    Once I push the brake hard and felt a pop and the brake pedal pushed back.
    Vacuum problem?
    Master cylinder Problem?
    ????
    Any Ideas
    Thanks inadvance
  • kevinohkevinoh Member Posts: 1
    I have a '00 S10, my service engine soon light came on, I got it diagnosed as an oxygen sensor, within a week the whole engine blew.... Does anyone know the book time for replacing the engine?

    :confuse:
  • mags468mags468 Member Posts: 10
    this is a follow up to my original question, that no one had any answer to. The problem was the wires going into the junction box just under the ignition switch.
  • doc15doc15 Member Posts: 37
    Had a problem with a keak on my 4.3 Vortec and replaced the water pump, but now seem to have a fairly heavy leak that looks like it could be coming from the head gasket on the drivers side. This is a truck I don't want to spend a ton of money on so I was going to do the work myself. Is this considered a relatively easy fix or is it best left to professionals. I don't really want to do anything to the engine except repair the leak. Thanks DOC
Sign In or Register to comment.