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I don't understand why they are denying your claim, since my letter stated it covered 2006 and 2007 model years. If they never fixed the problem in 2006, and still had problems in 2007, then it would seem to me that all 2006 model year product would be covered.
The mechanic I took it to said that he knows the ins and outs of the repair, but said it would only last for about another 36,000 miles since it is corrosion that causes the problem and that can't be remedied. What are other folks/mechanics doing about the evap. problem long term? Should I just expect an A/C leak in 3 years and sell the car when I notice it? I can't believe there's not a permanent solution to this obvious design flaw. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Would others apply this treatment to the lines following the repair?
While the resister pack can fail so that the only speed you have is maximum, the resistor pack absolutely CAN fail and not allow the blower to run on any speed. My situation was proof of that.
Don't replace a blower when you can replace a resistor pack easily yourself. If that doesn't work, all you are out is the fairly low cost of the replacement resistor, not the cost of a blower, which you likely may not need.
You can always try my trick of connect the battery temporarily to the two leads that feed the blower motor. I did not have to gain access to the blower to test it, I just pushed stripped wire ends into the blower lead wires that plug in to the resistor pack, and used my jumper cables to go direct from the battery to the blower motor leads. If the blower works under those conditions, then it is most likely the resistor pack.
My parts guy said that virtually all the problems with the blower fan not running are the resistor pack failure, and the fact that the replacement unit was a complete redesign of the original lends support to my theory that the original resistor pack was a marginal design.
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_replace_a_2000_dodge_caravan_blower_motor_r- esistor
FYI to anyone trying to remove/replace their resistor: It's under the hood thru the top edge of the firewall behind an ac line and is very difficult to access. It's held in place by compression/squeeze retainer clips on each side. There is no access to the retainer clips. The connectors on mine were quite corroded and one was almost burned thru and partially fused in place. This made removing the connector extremely difficult. I believe wrestling with the stuck connector added to the difficulty of then removing the resistor pack. The retaining clips were probably bent out of shape and it took a good deal of force (difficult in the confined space) to remove the pack. I was able to remove the burned male connector from the connector plug and cleaned up a little of the external corrosion and melted plastic. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the connector is still functional. Replacing the connector, if needed, will be a major pain due again to the limited access and the shortness of the wires. I'll post the outcome once I have installed a new resistor.
needs to be appreciated by everyone.
adren
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caravan insurance compare
p.s. It could be your actuator if the therastate is good??
"Very suddenly I had steam coming from the front end and could smell anti-freeze" sounds much more like an antifreeze leak. First find out where the leak is (radiator? hoses? water pump?) and repair. Then if the "no heat" problem continues, it probably is the thermostat. I recently had the "no heat" issue in our 2002 Grand Caravan 3.8. When the thermostat is stuck in the "open" position, it allows too much coolant to circulate through the engine. When the outside temperature is cold, then the engine can not warm up properly, and consequently no heat in the cabin. Replacing the thermostat on ours was very easy, hopefully 2004 is also. But repair the leak first.
I have a 2002 GC 3.8, and have had to replace the alternator 3 times now (on my 4th unit) due to the bearing going out. The original went out at 130K miles. Replaced with O'Reileys. It's quite possible that if I replaced it with original equipment I would have better luck, but the O'Reiley's has the lifetime warranty and it's fairly easy to replace. I almost thought it was the A/C compressor, because when that was turned on the rumbling noise picked up also. But apparently the increased electrical load on the alternator caused its bearing to make more noise. I don't think you need to pack a spare, but just be prepared if you start hearing that rumbling noise from the front of the engine... The only specialty tool is the serpentine belt tool used to un-tension the belt tensioner. It needs a very thin handle in order to fit between the front of the engine (right side I guess) and the body. I rented mine from Auto-Zone, but you can buy one cheap at Harbor Freight. By the way, the O'Reiley's people where I live believe the alternator design is at fault. Take for what it's worth, but they do see a lot of "what needs to be replaced on what" go through their doors.
the very next morning after i got it, i noticed that the frost on the windshield was melting on the driver side only, so i turned the passenger side knob all the way to cold then back to hot, problem solved, a stuck damper ?
the next day i had the same problem except it was the driver side, the same trick fixed it.
i haven't had that problem for 3 weeks now, either they are working or they are stuck on the hottest position now.
.
I inherited a 1994 grand caravan with a host of problems I believe are related in some way. When I saw 'switching air' I hit the nail on the head. My car does exactly that.
The problem is I didn't see an answer to this. I am mechanically challenged so if I missed it somewhere would someone point it out. Or is there anyone who can please give me an answer.
Thank you!!!!
You can email me at johnmac12345@aol.com
Thanks for any help u can give
(Blower stuck on dash vents. dial shows lights moving around to different settings but air just keeps coming out dash vents)
I have a T&C 2009 and yesterday I smelled antifreeze and noticed some vapor under the hood, I checked the engine compartment and found antifreeze over the drivers side of the engine over the battery try, and most parts there, I took out the plastic cover and saw the foam of it with a lot of antifreeze and pulls of antifreeze in the upper part of the engine, I didnt see any spray or leak at idle. The reservoir was almost empty.
Can you help me? where is the thermostat located?, where is the water pump located? Why is the antifreeze where I found it?
Thanks in advance.
BTW I dont know if here is the rigth place to post mi questions
Now I'm faced with the predicament of calling Chrysler again (who paid most of the repair costs tho not happy I didn't go to the dealership) and reporting this issue which is not a new one, but I had forgotten it since last winter. First I will call the shop where the work was done & see if he cares to tackle the problem again. This is really ridiculous!
I added antifreeze and the heat was blowing immediately.
Thanks for this $9.51 tip.
Help! AC stopped cooling in 2002 Town & Country, both front and rear. It just blows the ambient warm air.
The blower speed is OK, it obeys the knob rotation position fine, so it's not the resistor/blower speed control pack. The refrigerant charge was also checked "good". The AC Clutch fuse looks good, and its relay was replaced with no changes.
Weird thing: sometimes on cool days AC cools fine if it was turned on while the engine was still cold. Then it works OK, even all day - until the engine is shut down. Then, on the subsequent starts it does not cool anymore (I guess until the car sits overnight and the engine becomes completely cold). But on the hot days, when AC is actually needed, it never cools!
This is an automatic temperature control model.
Did anyone had this? Any advice is appreciated...
Following up on my previous post: the AC blowing hot air problem in my case was because of the wear-increased air gap in the AC clutch. It can be fixed easily: no parts to buy, and not even the serpentine belt needing to be removed. Unscrew the center bolt holding the clutch together. There will be a few small metal washers/shims responsible for the air gap. Take one out, re-assemble and see if the gap became small enough for the clutch to engage (when AC button is pressed). There are a few YouTube videos showing this done on Jeeps - search for "AC clutch gap".