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Town & Country/Caravan Heating / Cooling

bravado1bravado1 Member Posts: 3
in Chrysler
Could not find a good answer to this problem of my climate control blower running on high even when the climate control was turned off. I found the solution through my own research. The control module went bad. This used to be called a resistor pack. Now there are no resistors in it, but only a solid state silicone FET. It is located behind the glove box. Simply open glove compartment and make it swing all the way down by squeezing in on the sides. You will see the module attached to plenum with two plugs connected. Unscrew the two 8mm screws to get module out. New part number from dealer is 5179985AA. The original module part number has been discontinued.
If you know somebody electrically inclined, they can fix the old one by replacing the power FET on circuit board.
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Comments

  • neil4neil4 Member Posts: 1
    Your description of the blower fan problem could not come at a better time. We have a 2000 chrysler. We tried replacing the front panel where the radio is which has the electronic computer (used-2 different units) but that didn't work.

    What is the year of your van?

    If our's has a resister pack where would we find that?

    How likely is it that the resister pack would be the problem instead of the body control module which you described?

    What is the cost of replacing the body control module (used?)

    Can you put this unit in yourself?

    We were told that you have to reset the computer after replacing the body control module, is that what you experienced?
  • bravado1bravado1 Member Posts: 3
    My van is a 2002. The module or resistor pack is the same thing...only the insides are different. Dealer cost for the module was $56.00. The module/resistor pack is definately the blower problem. Yes, you can very easily do it yourself in about 10 minutes.
  • ClairesClaires Member Posts: 1,222
    Hi,

    I moved your post to the Chrysler Van Transmission Problems discussion where you're likely to get more feedback. Click the link below to get there:

    Dodge Chrysler Minivan Transmission Problems, post #1067

    MODERATOR

    Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Tell everyone about your buying experience: Write a Dealer Review

  • jerryk102jerryk102 Member Posts: 1
    Do you know the part number for the Power MOSFET on the referenced resistor pack?
  • rocinthedesertrocinthedesert Member Posts: 1
    I have a similar problem with my 05 T&C The blower fan will not work, I can hear the AC compressor come on when turned on and I have checked the fuses and relay switches and they appear to be fine. could the resister pack be the problem? and is it in the same place on a 05

    Thanks
  • jqualleyjqualley Member Posts: 1
    this is a 35.00 item that you merely have to drop down the Glove compartment door, unscrew two screws and plug in the new part--an amazingly easy fix--happened to me on vacation in Ocean City and no chrysler dealer would take me that day within 100 miles--figured it out myself and fixed
  • dechristopherdechristopher Member Posts: 2
    Does a 2005 Town & Country SWB (i.e. base model) have an A/C air filter? My owner's manual just says "If So Eqipped". I am unable to locate it where described (under passenger side instrument panel).
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Member Posts: 249
    I know my base 2001 caravan has one. You practically have to lay your head on the floor looking up under the dash/glovebox, where you will see a 10" X 1" oval cover held on by a sliding plastic retainer. It's almost exactly behind the left hinge of the glovebox. The filter sits vertically up behind that oval plastic cover.
  • bootstrapjackbootstrapjack Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    Maybe somebody can help me here :sick:

    1998 T&C Lx AWD

    AC does not work when push AC button (button lights up but air temp same as outside air)

    AC works when turn the knob to windshield defrost (but of course air is blowing onto windshield).

    Any ideas?

    Thank you kindly~~~
  • treasure2treasure2 Member Posts: 3
    My problem is that my air works fine in the rear but up front is barely cool. Any ideas?
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    If you are still under warranty and I would guess you are unless you drive a lot of miles per year, have your dealer fix it free.
  • treasure2treasure2 Member Posts: 3
    Unfortunately it is not under warranty...ran out at 36k and I have 38k on it. I just purchased it used about 3 months ago and it has been great aside from this new issue and the fact that the pass. window will not work making the a/c problem feels 10 times worse. But thank you for the thought.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    You still might want to check with a dealer and or plead your case with Chrysler since it is so close to warranty. Sometimes they have extended "silent warranties" for items that have shown premature failures.

    Another possibility, if you bought it used from a dealer, they may stand behind it.

    Since it cools in the rear, this has to mean the A-C system still works and has not sprung a refrigerant leak. It may be just some sort of simple damper control in the ductwork or bad switch in your dash. I
  • treasure2treasure2 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks I will try contacting the dealership I bought it from and see what they say.
  • chrisdcchrisdc Member Posts: 3
    I have an '03 LXi and the A/C condensation is leaking onto the passenger floorboard. I had an older model that did the same thing, but that was simply a loose hose. This time, the water seems to be coming from where the housing goes thru the firewall. Water is coming out the exit tube in the engine compartment, so it's not completely clogged. Does anyone know if there's a gasket there that might be bad?

    Any insight would be very helpful. Thanks!!
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Member Posts: 249
    In some 2001 models, the hose with the down-ward bend, was ommitted completely from the drain tube that sticks thru the firewall. Check to make sure that hose is there, and also that it is completely pushed on to the drain pipe till it hits the firewall. If the hose is missing or not completely on, water will sill exit the drain pipe as you have stated, but highway speeds force the water back thru the pipe and eventually onto the passenger side carpet.
  • chrisdcchrisdc Member Posts: 3
    Don't think that's the problem because it's an '03 and it only recently started doing this. I'm not sure if it only does it at highway speed though, I'll have to check that.

    Thanks for the input and any other suggestions are greatly appreciated!
  • racefan6racefan6 Member Posts: 1
    FYI - My fan just stopped working one day. You could still here the AC running but no fan in the front. The rear blower still worked. The shop said it was a blower modulator. Anyway it cost just under $200 and is working great now.
  • worxriteworxrite Guest Posts: 7
    The fan motor on my T&C won't shut off after I remove the keys. This just started yesterday. So far it hasn't run the battery down. I haven't driven it today. Yesterday, I drove it some, but removed the battery post after I came home. Can anyone tell me what I need to do to fix the problem?

    Thank You,
    R.Corbett
  • safecyclesafecycle Member Posts: 9
    In my case, the fan run at the full speed and could not be shut off until I pull the ignition key off. After that it stopped. My friend had a similar problem with the fan speed control.

    In both cases, the problem was solved by replacing a fan power regulating swith located behind the glove box. That part costs $20 with a simple fan control and $64 if you have an auto-temp control feature.

    In the meanwhile, there is no need to disconnect the battery terminal. To stop the fan, you can simply pull the fan power connector from the regulator located behind the glove box. Pull the glove box toward yourself (it will easily go if you bend the sides inward). You will see a small box with a heat sink. Then unplug either of its two wire connectors.
  • fdobbsfdobbs Member Posts: 3
    We are in Maine.

    First heating issue we have with this car.

    Our 2000 Town and Country LXi 3.8 FWD today would no longer produce warm or hot air. It was still functioning normal (at least I think) yesterday and the past few days. But maybe it had slowed down producing warm air? I don't know. Yesterday it pre-heated & warmed up fine and gave warm air into the passenger cabin while driving. Today we drove one hour in the cold.

    The temp needle would barely move up from cold, and drop back down as soon as we tried to get warm air. Even after 20 min to ultimately an hour of highway driving, we still had no warm air coming out of the vents. I confirm that both sliders were on hot, turned on blower and it would blow air. Recirculation made no difference.

    The temp needle remained on cold the whole drive. As soon as we stopped at a traffic light near our destination, the temp needle would go up while standing still, then drop rapidly again when we continued our way.

    I'm hoping to get some help in:

    - determining what the problem would be / could be

    - and get an idea of the repair route & cost.

    Maybe this is something I could fix myself?

    I have not been thrilled with the dealer(s) (trying to get a $1500 repair for a $20 hose with a little puncture in a hose and things like that) and the small shops have been good, but I had mixed results with both local 'good' shops recommended by multiple parties. (missed diagnosis & over charging in hindsight )

    Appreciate any help.
  • russ12russ12 Member Posts: 1
    My 2001 T&C will heat on drivers side but blows AC on passengers front side. Rear heats fine. No matter what the front passengers side controller is set on it still blows cold. Any suggestions?
  • bobtoysbobtoys Member Posts: 1
    We have a 2002 Town and Country with the 3 zone digital climate control. The little lights that light the buttons are burnt out. Upon disassembly, I see the light bulbs appear to be an integral part of the circuit control board. I have had various experts tell me that the ONLY fix is to replace the whole climate control unit--$400.00 from dealer and less if one can be found second market (hard to do!). Is there any way to replace the tiny bulbs on the circuit board and not the whole control unit? Can I do it myself? Otherwise, I need professional in Oklahoma City or Tulsa. NOT A DEALER please--they just want to sell the $400.00 jobby.
  • stutz71stutz71 Member Posts: 1
    Bravado1,

    Thanks for the information on the T&C blower problem, we are experiencing a real cold winter here in Ontario Canada and your easy fix was much appreciated. The installation of the new module returned the climate control system to normal and it took less than 15 minutes!

    Let me know where to send the reward!
  • asw70asw70 Member Posts: 2
    I experience the same problem right after the 60K service. Any information will be appreciated.
  • fdobbsfdobbs Member Posts: 3
    Ours was a defective thermostat. One of the two vertical pieces of the thermostat split / broke. It was stuck in the open position (hence the engine not warming up and no warm air coming it (at 10F outside)).

    It was easy to get fixed.
    $7 part at the local parts store.
    20 min to install at a local gas station's service bay.

    Two garage shops I called told me this would be a 45min-60min job (and thus towards $60 in labor) which was way out of line, as you can see the part and access it without removing anything. I just didn't want to try it myself as the bolts looked a bit rusty.
  • fdobbsfdobbs Member Posts: 3
    Ours was a defective thermostat. One of the two vertical pieces of the thermostat split / broke. It was stuck in the open position (hence the engine not warming up and no warm air coming it (at 10F outside)).

    It was easy to get fixed.
    $7 part at the local parts store.
    20 min to install at a local gas station's service bay.

    Two garage shops I called told me this would be a 45min-60min job (and thus towards $60 in labor) which was way out of line, as you can see the part and access it without removing anything. I just didn't want to try it myself.
  • asw70asw70 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the information. Could you please guide me on where to locate this thermostat?
  • dufer101dufer101 Member Posts: 1
    Have 2001 Town and country yesterday the fan controll only works on high? dont see much help other than asking you.
    Thanks
    Ed
  • flavifeflavife Member Posts: 20
    The multi tap resistor for the blower motor sits in the cowling in front of the passenger side of the windshield and is exposed to the rain that goes into the grill in front of the windshield and this cause the speed taps to open up. Over time I lost different speeds until only high worked. The last heater resistor block I bought cost a little less than $15. If the connector is severely corroded you will need to buy a splice connector kit. This is failure is common. I now just change the blower resistor every 2 years to prevent the connector plug from self destruction.

    Frank
  • antmatantmat Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Town and Country and when my van is on the fan runs all the time at a high speed. The speed settings have no control. My temp. settings work ok and the back fan works fine. If I turn off the climate control the fan runs faster.

    Thank you!
  • antmatantmat Member Posts: 2
    :) I used an answer already in the thread. I used an answer written by bravado1 (Answer #1 March 17, 2006) "The control module went bad. This used to be called a resistor pack. Now there are no resistors in it, but only a solid state silicone FET. It is located behind the glove box. Simply open glove compartment and make it swing all the way down by squeezing in on the sides. You will see the module attached to plenum with two plugs connected. Unscrew the two 8mm screws to get module out. New part number from dealer is 5179985AA."

    It worked perfectly. Thank you bravado1! :D ">
  • auggievanauggievan Member Posts: 2
    My 96 Grand Voyager has had a problem for two years. If I set the temp up high in the AM to assist the defrost then no matter which setting the slider is set to for many hours (sometimes days) the heater puts out hot air. It is currently stuck in the cold setting. The problem is intermittent, but more often sticking then operating correctly. Recommendations?

    auggievan
  • mngolfermngolfer Member Posts: 18
    Same problem with our 2002 Dodge Grand ES. You can replace the bulbs yourself. The solder on the board appears to be lead free, so takes more heate than tin lead solder. These are the lamps that will work "Chicago Miniature 7646". You can Google and they are available at several suppliers.

    Write to Chrysler and lodge a complaint. I also sent to NTSB as safety hazard as trying to adjust the controls at night is a problem. IE can not find the defroster setting...
  • ironlassironlass Member Posts: 1
    I have a '97 model and recently the air conditioner "on" switch will only work in the highest setting. Any of the lower settings are just dead.

    Any ideas?
  • zukdjzukdj Member Posts: 1
    OK, I have a different dilema, I have the auto-temp control module on my 2002 T&C Limited and my front fan/blower doesn't work at all on any speed however the controls work fine for the rear air/heat on all speeds. I installed a new blower motor because I was told if part # 5179985AA was bad I would only get one speed but that doesn't seem to be the case, I get nothing, has anyone got any suggestions? The blower motor is new, the digital controls run the rear heat/air fine, the only thing not replaced is the auto-temp control module, has anyone seen this go bad to where you get no fan at any speed? It's a $70 part so I want to be sure. Is there a way to test it?
  • 2005tc2005tc Member Posts: 2
    My 2005 T7C rear AC blows air but no cooling. I heard there is a flapper motor on the unit that may need replacing. I found the ac unit and the line to it is cold. Anyone know how to get to this thing? Looks like something I could get mad over without some instructions.
    Thanks, Greg
  • willemwillem Member Posts: 16
    My van is from '97, and they might have changed the procedure. But did you switch the auxiliary system from heating to cooling? If not check your manual. With my T & C I have to move the driver side temperature lever all the way to the left to switch the rear system to cooling. (And all the way to the right, to turn the heating back on) :)

    Willem
  • 2005tc2005tc Member Posts: 2
    Hey thanks, I'll give it a try. That may me part of the prob here, I have no manual. Just got the van and it was missing but I have one on the way.
    Greg
  • avgoustiavgousti Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2003 T&C and went through the resistor pack (actually FED) issue 4 months ago. Now the problem is the air direction. Any position I choose on the knob for the air direction, the air is coming only from the panel. The lights are changing to indicate the position I choose but there is no change in the air flow direction. Any and all suggestions on how to fix the problema are appreciated.

    Dinos
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,786
    Sounds like it is probably the actuator that directs the airflow, but I am simply suggesting that as a likely culprit... I have not experienced or diagnosed the problem before.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • mustang_carnymustang_carny Member Posts: 2
    Hey Zukdj, Did you ever find out what caused your problem with your Town and Country? Mine just started doing the same thing and I was wondering what the fix was?
  • avgoustiavgousti Member Posts: 3
    Any idea how to get to the actuator? Or how to get to the climate controls on the dash?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,786
    No - I am new to the DC minivans (I have had one for about 6 weeks now). Usually, though, there is a casing behind the dash from which the various ventilation ducts extend - floor vents, dash vents, defroster. If you are lucky, the actuator is mounted to the outside of that casing and can be checked and/or replaced from there. How to get to it, though, I do not know. :(
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • steel1966steel1966 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 T&C EX and have the same issue where I get rear blower action fine, but none from the front. All relays and fuses in the engine compartment are fine. I have not tried to replace the part # 5179985AA yet. Should I bother? What else could it be.

    I am pretty sure it is not:

    * A/C Unit - It works fine in the rear
    * Fuses - I swapped them all out and the rear still worked
    * Relays - Same as fuses
    * Dash unit - I took this thing apart and actually ended up fixing my stereo :)
    - I guess there could be an issue with just the front knob, but I did not see anything suspect
    * I looked under the glove box to see what was there, but did not see a whole heck of a lot (is part # 5179985AA small or something - what does it look like?)

    Thanks for ANY suggestions.
  • mustang_carnymustang_carny Member Posts: 2
    On my 2001 T & C, it did turn out to be the Resistor pack, 5179985AA. Cost about $60. The pack is about 1.5"x 2.5" in diamter and is screwed into the firewall directly behind the glove box. You have to press on the glove box hinges and lower the box down to see the resistor. Just unhook it and uncrew it and install the new. Should take care of the problem.
  • steel1966steel1966 Member Posts: 3
    I went to the dealer to pick up 5179985AA. I then went home to look in the T&C EX to see if it would fit. It would not. :cry:

    The part in my van did not have the same pin connectors. One of the two connectors (the larger of the two) in my van had 6 male tabs, mounted in the same fashion as the smaller of the two connectors - which had two metal male tabs. The part number for the one in my 2002 T&C EX (3.8L) is 04885583(or 5)AA.

    Was I looking at the wrong part in my van? There were no other connectors in my van that I saw that would come close to fitting.

    My connector in my van looked like this (the equal sign represents two horizontal metal tabs):

    | = | = = = |

    The one I bought (5179985AA) looked like this (the "I"'s represent vertical metal tabs):

    | II | III |

    Does my 2002 T&C EX use a totally different part number? :confuse:

    Thanks.
  • gabhanjacisagabhanjacisa Member Posts: 19
    Would there be any reason why the front vents blow cold a/c air, but the rear vents for the second and third rows don't blow air as cold?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,786
    Is this a new development, or has it always done this? If there is just ducting coming from the front of the van, the air will warm within them as it travels. Many vehicles with large air spaces have secondary compressors in the rear of the vehicle to keep this from happening, I just do not know if your van is one of them.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • gabhanjacisagabhanjacisa Member Posts: 19
    I usually don't sit in the back, so...My wife informs me that it has always been like this, to some degree or another, and that I now suspect the air warms as it travels. There is no compressor in the back of the van.
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