Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Gasoline Engine Problems

135678

Comments

  • lon986lon986 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2002 Sierra 8.1L that starts and runs normally except that when started cold and ran until it reaches normally operating temperature it will die. The Engine will not restart immediately. It will restart if key is shut off and a delay of 30-60 seconds is made before trying to restart. It will run perfectly the rest of the day.
    Anyone with any ideas?? Thanks in advance.
  • barrengonadsbarrengonads Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Sierra that has been starting very rough after the engine is warm...I've changed the plugs and filter, and still having this problem...
    Does anyone have any ideas on my proble??
    Thanks in advance
  • 33dan5033dan50 Member Posts: 3
    joryeln,

    I have a 2004 gmc sierra-with 22,520 miles.
    Today the engine stalled for the (13th) time.
    Every time it has stalled is at a very slow
    speed. Either at a stop light or turning
    into a parking space. Left turns(10x's)right
    turns(1)straight(2x's). The truck has been
    in the shop (6x's)---the last (6-7-07). A
    GMC specialist for the NWest region had the
    truck for a week, and determined that the
    Throttlebody was gummed up.(???????)they
    cleaned it and said all was now solved. Today,
    1,465 miles later it stalled again(L)turn
    slow about 5MPH. It also tried to stall (2)
    other times today approaching a red light at
    about 5-10MPH. They insist that I am not using the right gasoline(Chevron) is their
    recommended brand. That is 'Hogwash'. There
    is something that is causing the engine to
    lose rpm's and the transmission is probably
    stalling the engine. Every time it has happened to me, my foot is on the brake and
    the vehicle is slowing down. They claim that
    they haven't heard of any problem similar to
    mine----we both know that is not true. I feel
    they either can't figure it out---so they use
    the gas excuse and blame me. Or if they
    admit they have a problem they don't know how
    to fix---they have to give us a replacement
    truck---which they surely don't want to do.

    Question????? When will the engine decide to stall at a high rate of speed without warning?
    I don't want to be in a situation like that.

    Suggestion: My truck is still under warranty
    for a few months. It has existed since the
    3rd month I owned it---they have to still try
    and solve it. For you???? Have you made sure
    that all grounding contacts are in fact clean
    and solid? I still feel that the brake pedal
    may have something to do with it. Lastly, the
    computer may be screwed up. If the engine rpm's drop because of load on the engine, the
    computer should compensate for the load and speed up the engine to maintain the rpm's at
    a 500rpm level. If it doesn't, and they drop
    to 200-300rpms---bingo the engine stalls.

    I will be taking my truck in asap. If you have any info. or ideas for me, I would be
    glad to hear them.

    Dan
  • hotel1hotel1 Member Posts: 50
    Is your truck stock? If not what mods have you done?
  • 33dan5033dan50 Member Posts: 3
    Hi hotel1,

    My truck is 100% stock. I have not changed one
    thing or added anything to the engine area, or
    any other area. Yesterday GM is really trying
    to put the blame entirely on fuel. I use Arco
    76Union, Shell, Chevron on occasion. GM says
    not to use ARCO, Costco, Safeway, any Minute
    Store gas products----Only Top-Tier-Highest
    priced fuels. I told them they were full of it. My truck manual specifically states that
    GM highly recommends that you use Oxygenated
    (Ethanol or ether blended) fuels for a cleaner
    burn and for cleaner air. I seriously feel
    that they know they have a problem that they
    haven't been able to isolate---it is happening
    on plenty of these models---probably more
    after the warranty has expired. In my case
    it first occurred at 2500.0 miles(3 mo. old)
    and has intermittently occurred(12x's) since
    then. On average every 1731.0 miles. A little
    as 450.0 miles between stalls to as much as
    4,115.0 miles. Gasoline mileage has always
    been consistent, City(15-16mpg)--Hwy(19-21).
    I will use Chevron exclusively until it happens
    again. When that happens(& it will), I look
    forward to GM's newer excuse. They want me to be happy with my truck-but seem real reluctant
    to solve matters soley by their financial cost.

    Thanks for the reply. I hope you can shead
    some light on this problem.

    Dan
  • hotel1hotel1 Member Posts: 50
    Wow Dan............My 04 6.0 ran great off any old cheap pump gas and I heavy towed and snowplowed the heck outta
    it !!!!!!!!!!
    Only issue was broken mirror heaters !

    My only thought was a mod you did............

    Try using a different brand of gas?
  • shocker1shocker1 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I have an 02 HD 6.0 crewcab.
    A number of times while going up a steep grade and
    outside temp. kinda warm, I get a loud whinning noise coming
    from the front area of the engine. Especially if I stomp on
    the gas to pass someone. Then when I let up on it the noise goes away. Has anyone else had this problem? Can it be a belt or maybe the fan clutch? Any input would be appreciated.
    Thanks :confuse:
  • 33dan5033dan50 Member Posts: 3
    Hi again,

    I failed to say that I have a 5.3L-V8. We
    will take it in next Wednesday and check the
    Throttlebody to see what, if any deposits are
    there. I have never used one brand of fuel
    soley since I have owned this truck. I have
    bought what was usually the lowest priced at
    the time of purchase. Here in the Seattle
    area it is not always ARCO, it can be 76 or
    Citgo, even Costco and Safeway. I refuse to
    accept that Chevron is the only right fuel
    for this vehicle. If that is true, then the manual should state that specifically.

    Regarding Heated side mirrors. I have had
    (2) replaced on the drivers side so far.
    They failed to heat the mirror---no problem
    on the passenger side door. Neither one of them heat up very much.

    I will let you know what the findings are next week when they finish with it at the Dealership.

    Thanks for the input.

    Dan
  • robbiesrobbies Member Posts: 1
    Wondered if anyone had this happen on their truck and what the possible issue may be. The truck is 05 with about 34,000 miles on it. When I turn the key to shut it off - I sometimes hear a loud noise out of the engine. I am not sure if this could be the starter or alternator (don't know a whole lot about engines) - but was curious if this was a known issue or what may be the root cause. Thanks!
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    "I sometimes hear a loud noise out of the engine."

    A brief description of that loud noise would help. One could mistake it for one's mother-in-law in some instances. ;)
  • connected421connected421 Member Posts: 1
    I have the exact same problem. I have taken it to two different repair shops and they have not been able or willing to isolate the problem. Truck stalls when turning slowly. Have you found out what it was yet?
  • kenbennett1973kenbennett1973 Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    I'm having performance problems with my truck. Then engine runs rough, provide very little power and uses gas profusely. This has progressivley gotten worse over the last year.

    The truck is a 1994 K1500 (4x4) Silverado with the 5.7 gasoline engine with only an upgraded Gibson exhaust (factory cat) and 180 degree thermostat. It has only 81K miles.

    I just replaced the Dist. cap, rotor, plugs, wires and fuel filter. My mechanic OK'ed fuel pump pressures, Coil and EGR valve and says I have the latest PROM from GM.

    Oddly enough, the truck runs better with the EGR valve DISconnected, but it still isn't near as good as it should be and this of course generates an SES fault after a few miles of driving. Driving with the EGR connected is nearly impossible due to even worse performance. Any other ideas on what I should look at?

    Thanks,

    Ken.
  • kenbennett1973kenbennett1973 Member Posts: 2
  • ttfttf Member Posts: 2
    i have a 04 serria with a 4800 engine. the head gaskets let go 98,889 km. had it fixed. now two months later with less than 300kms on truck gone again.has anyone else had similar problem,also have rear spring noise banging and banging from rear end sounds like u joint going. thks 4800
  • ttfttf Member Posts: 2
    hi i have 04 serria 4800 engine and it blows white smoke and blue smoke. replaced head gaskets once. now less than 300 km doing it again. looks like to me gaskets gone again
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    The dealer has rubber pads to sell to you to install between the springs to stop the clanging. Sounds like a warped head as gaskets don't fail that fast.
  • johnlutzjohnlutz Member Posts: 1
    I had the main wiring harness replaced ($1100) two years ago after squirrels ate the wiring.
    Recently runs rough (missing) on rare occasions. Recently wouldn't start; just clicked like battery dead but batt was OK. Had it towed. When it got there it was OK and mechanic couldn't find anything wrong.

    Any ideas?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    loose connection to the battery.
  • xtremes10zxtremes10z Member Posts: 4
    hey my 03 silverado 5.3 v8 gas has a very rough idle, and stalls at low manuver speeds like turning at low speed or backing up. the tach read 0 yes zero and below llights are dim and driving my tach reads normal and sometimes reads a maxx of 3000 when i floor it, im going to try the MAF sensor cleaning because i have already changed air filter, plugs and plug wires,new Optima battery, and had a professonial injector cleaning preformed along with new high flow cat's installed that alone was about :cry: $1,000 and now my pockets are tight for repair bills. if anyone has any suggestions shoot me an e-mail xtremes10z@aol.com
  • xtremes10zxtremes10z Member Posts: 4
    i was having same problem with my new truck....the cat's probley need replaceing with high flow cat's...everything worked great for about 6 months ...then now i have this low idle problem
  • siclonesiclone Member Posts: 2
    My 2000 w/ a 454 has 130000 miles on it and counting the originals, I am on my 4th set of injectors. The dealer says it's because I use Ethanol. Parts store says they have only sold 35 injectors for this engine in the whole state of Iowa in the last 12 months. Has anyone heard of this before? Know of any TSB that addresses this problem?
  • jgower2jgower2 Member Posts: 2
    Where is the crankshaft position sensor located? I've looked around as much as I have had the time to. I'm too cheap to buy the manual if it's just for this problem, especially if I have to spend a couple hundred bucks to have it replaced if it's too difficult to get to. Thanks.
  • jerryk2jerryk2 Member Posts: 6
    i have a problem with my motor it has a miss to it and i have change out the two o2 sensers befro the converter and new plugs and wires and it still does it it kind of acks like there is a vacume leak or somthing like that what it is doing is RPM S jump from like 700 down to like 200 or 300 some time it does it some time it dont so i am lost help me out
  • 420sierra420sierra Member Posts: 1
    Not related to my engine but my dash lights, 4x4 lights and heater lights are burnt out! My gear and information lights come on, if I go into cruise control that light comes on, but no lights for the spedo or gas or tach. Aswell the lights that show me 2wd or 4hi and lo do not show. Also the buttons for my heater controls dont show, like I can see what temp and where the air is going (head, feet, or defrost) but cant see like the fan speed button or that sorta thing! Have checked about 10 different fuses cant find a burnt one, then today the mirror compass and thermometer went out, again fuses alright. Anyone else have these problems?
  • jake615615jake615615 Member Posts: 1
    when i crank engine over it tryes to start but it wont when i let go of the key after trying for about 8 seconds and the key is now just on the on position the enging tryies to start it fires a few pistions but not enough to start. (sounds like dieseling) if i wait a day it will start right up. i drove it for the last two moths with out a problem. this problem only happens when the truck is sitting for more that 2 days. hot, cold ,dry , and wet dont matter. new cap wires plugs fuel pressuer is 58 does any one know what to do or had this problem thank you jake
  • caraftercarafter Member Posts: 2
    I had a similar experiance on my '04 when I let the battery go completely dead. When jumping it to the battery post bolts, it would start as the key was turned then die when the key was reliesed. As a last resort, we took the battery cables off and cleaned what appeared to be a very clean connection. It started and stayed running the first try. Give that a try.

    Craig
  • skipvskipv Member Posts: 7
    Anybody have solid documented proof that these "spacers" really work?

    Can't find any documented info on the web.

    Thanks
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Probably because there aren't any.
  • skipvskipv Member Posts: 7
    What about the Airraid, Jet , and others that claim fantastic improvement by installing a 1 inch piece of material? Do those devices work?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Probably one of the best HP return for the $ is a custom tune. Best seat of the pants increase would be a supercharger. The rest of the bolt on stuff isn't really worth the money unless you're into sounds. Like a loud exhaust or a loud intake.

    I remember that Truckin magazine dyno'd a K&N kit. The results was an increase of 2 HP +-1.
    That's quite a bit of money for a 2HP increase. Plus the cumulative effect is even less when adding a throttle body spacer and exhaust. Some aftermarket exhausts actually lose HP due to a decrease in backpressure. I remember Granatelli selling those aftermarket MAF minus the screen advertising and increase of 70% airflow. While in theory it may be close to that. What they don't tell you is the loss of power due to the incoming air being more turbulent since there's no screen to direct the flow.

    If you want the loud exhaust or love that intake sound go for it. I'd save my money. Been there done that.
  • skipvskipv Member Posts: 7
    Thank you for the best explanation I have ever heard. While I agree with everything you said I also agree that to each his own. I have gone as far as the FIPK kit, Headers, Borla, and Hypertech. There is a significant seat of the pants feeling but as you said it comes at a price, especially now that I am running 285/20 wheels and tires.

    I was willing to pay the price for all the parts and have enjoyed my experience. Would I do it again...Probably not... Gonna retire soon as will use money more wisely.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Retire? Yes save your money ;)

    All in all I had "invested" over $10K in aftermarket on my 2000 Silverado. There is no way I would do that again though I do miss listening to the Westside Connection on that $5K system. More I think about it I would do the aftermarket stereo and leave the truck stock. That way I won't have the extra noise conflicting with the stereo.

    One thing you might want to consider is getting rid of the hypertech on ebay and get this one. It has a ton of options and custom downloadable tunes and costs about the same as the hypertech.

    Diablo Sport
  • skipvskipv Member Posts: 7
  • jcruzmcjcruzmc Member Posts: 2
    I have a '02 Chevy 1500 5.3 liter with 55k miles. I put on a K&N air filter and tornado about 3 years ago and was consistanty getting 17.5+ mpg. During the last 7 months, mpg has been steadlily, consistantly going down. My last tank was 13.5 mpg for the same kind of driving as usual. The air filter is clean, I replaced the fuel filter, the tire pres is good, the spark plugs were replaced (they were in good condition), and I get no indications (check engine light, eng perform.) that something is wrong. I use premium gas because I found that I got more mpg per dollar by doing so.
    Also, in the Chilton maint book it says that a bad EGR valve could cause poor mpg. The thing is that my eng doesn't have one even though my VIN # (with a "T" in it) indicates it should (the chevy maint people can't explain it). The decrease in mpg seems to have started when I put on all terrain tires. The psi on these tires are 45 (compared to 35psi stock tires) and they are about the same in diameter. If it were the tires, wouldn't I see the difference instantly and not over time? The Chilton book suggests checking the exhaust and emissions systems. How do I do that? Any other suggestions??
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    A/T tires are heavier than your stock ones even at higher pressure the weight would cause lower mpg along with a more rolling resistance due to tread design.

    I believe what Chilton's is referring to when stating to check exhaust and emissions is to check or have someone check your catalytic converters as a restricted cat would cause a drop in mpg too. You have four of them BTW.
  • solingersolinger Member Posts: 1
    1992 Silverado, 4.3L Was driving home and the bearings on the
    tensioner pulley broke and the pulley and belt both blew off. I
    coasted to the exit and into a gas station. Opened the hood and saw
    the pulley and belt missing. Truck was not yet overheated, thank
    goodness. I replaced the pulley and belt and started right up but the
    grinding and rattling noise was there as if something was banging
    around inside the engine. There is no water in the oil so it does not
    appear to be a head gasket. I removed the belt and turned the water
    pump, and no noise there. I turned alternator and there was a bit of
    grinding but nothing major. I then got to the cranks( I think that is
    what they are lower left and lower right to eather side of the water pump) The right side made no noise as I turned it, but
    the left one (passenger side one below the A/C compressor) was grinding and rattling when I turned it by hand. What
    does this mean? By the way the enging has 220,000 miles on it. I am
    hoping someone can help me figure out what the grinding is. Piston,
    rod, wahtever?

    Thanks
    Aaron
  • leadmanleadman Member Posts: 1
    I have a '93 sierra ,4x4, 1500 that won't start. I have no spark or fuel from the injectors. I can hear the fuel pump running and the injectors test ok. The ingnition module tests ok and so does the coil. I replaced the computer, but used my old chips. Could it be the crankshaft position sensor and if so where is it? Or is the problem located in using the old chips. :confuse:
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I've heard of premature intake manifold gasket failure due to Dexcool, but never have I read anything about anyone having to do a head job with 85K miles. Not in these forums anyway.

    Just because you have a misfire on 1 and 5 (And I would have this verified first) doesn't mean head gasket failure. Is there water in the oil? Steam from the exhaust? It could be fouled plugs though with unleaded gas that would be unusual. Or perhaps a failed coil or two. Maybe it's just me but I don't have the dealer work on my trucks after the warranty period simply because they average charge $125 an hour for labor vs. a local mechanic who is around $85 an hour and even less if using greenbacks.

    Did they give a reason for needing a head job? Besides the obvious of course... ;)
  • cajamacajama Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2001 2500HD w 85000 miles 6.0 liter. I have been getting a misfire on 1 and 5 cyliders. Brought it to the dealer says I need a head job, mind you not the kind I like. Has anybody had the same problem.
  • cajamacajama Member Posts: 4
    They had put new coils in to see if that would work but still misfired, plugs are new and so are the spark plug wires.
    They had changed the intake gasket because there was a bulletin on it. But the service engine light flashed on again afterwards. Brought it back they checked it all out again then put additves in. Only had it go on once after that when I was doing 85.
    Hasn't gone on since but I haven't been doing any traveling. They last told me they would have to measure each rod to see if all are the same size, mind you my head is spinning. I have a regular mechanic I go to but there is certain things I feel better going to the dealer, they know me really well I bought about 10 vechicles from them and their service is really good which is surprising for a dealer.
  • 98z7198z71 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98chevy Z71 it cranks but it wont start. Took the fuel filter off and it had no restriction. Ran the line to a bucket and when I turned on the key I had good flow.
    I took a cover from from what looked eight injectors. Did not tell me anything. Cked all fuses with meter. The Chilton's and Hayes manuals are no help. Appreciate any guidance.
  • cajamacajama Member Posts: 4
    Check the battery it might be bad also the iac ( I hope that is correct) it keeps the correct idle on the vehicle. Had a similar problem w/my 01 turned out to be the battery was not good and surged the iac and burnt it out.
  • 98z7198z71 Member Posts: 2
    :lemon: Thank you for the lead if the one I m working on does not pay I will follow this one. I hooked up a code reader and it gave me a(exhaust fuel recirculation malfunction). It might be programed keeping the injector from firing. I might have to take it to a mechanic
  • 71nova71nova Member Posts: 2
    Anyone having problems with 6.0 2500 hd running bad popping sputtering loading up,vehicle has 200000 miles on it
  • 71nova71nova Member Posts: 2
    02 silverado hd 6.0 driveability problems popping sputtering loading up ,replaced intake gaskets, sparkplugs ,Exhaust ,checked timing chain,still no change if it helps vehicle has 200000 miles on it anyone with any insight on this i would appreciate it
  • lagoriolagorio Member Posts: 1
    Hi new guy here, I have a 2002 pick up with 82,000 on it, I has a cat back edelbrock exhaust on it since 25,000 miles and a K&N air filter.

    The problem im having is at 70 to 80 miles n hour my rpms will jump up and my check engine light blinks untill I slow down or speed up. I have taken it to the dealer and they give me BS things it could be like the worng spark plug bad wires and such everything they have told it could be I have fixed .

    any help would be great it is killing my gas mileage.

    Mike
  • roddentoddroddentodd Member Posts: 1
    Have you conciderd your fuel/air mixture.or your Mass air flow senser is dirty.I have a K/N air filter on my 2004 Silerado and sometimes my light comes on too and my code reader told me it was the running too lean.Ive since then put a high performance M.A.S. into it and remap the mixture and no more problems.
  • xtremes10zxtremes10z Member Posts: 4
    yeah guys i posted a concern with gas problems....rough idle....stalling and i found the coupret.....it was a dirty and partialy cloged PCV Valve.....i have 2003 chevy silverado 5.3v8 and the pcv valve is located at the rear of the drivers side valve cover......there is a hose running from the pcv valve to the top of the intake manifold...it cost bout 3 bucks at autozone and advance dont stock the part..replaceing the valve dont even take any tools just pull the hose offand put the new one on....havent hhad a rough idle bouncing around rpms or a stal since
  • rclauserclause Member Posts: 1
    I HAVE A 2003 - 1500HD W/ 82,000 MILES, I NEED SOME ADVICE ON HOW TO CORRECT A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WARNING - REDUCED ENGINE POWER DISPLAYS ON THE MESSAGE BOARD. I LOOSE ACCELERATION BUT THE TRUCK IS STILL RUNNING, I HAVE TO COME TO A COMPLETE STOP AND RE-START THE TRUCK TO BE ABLE TO GET IT TO ACCELERATE AGAIN, HAPPENS ONCE A WEEK, ANY SUGGESTIONS OUT THERE.
  • 08gmcsierra08gmcsierra Member Posts: 4
    Have a new GMC Sierra 1500. From day one the truck will intermittently make a ticking to light knocking sound on startup. This does not happen all the time. I have already taken the truck to the dealer and they say it's nothing. I can't help but think it is something. Perhaps oil not making it all the way through the engine...the oil pressure is fine on startup. Anyone had this issue? Suggestions
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles