Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
thank you
Does anyone know what colors at the back of the stock radio end up at which speaker? Or maybe more importantly, how does one hook up the 8 speaker wires on a new AM/FM/CD/HDr to the existing wiring harness so everything works right?Thanks,
Kevin
Since the wires leaving the head unit don't color match the wires at the speakers, I bet this is what you have.
I think the amp is in the dash, passenger side. Not actually sure of this.
I do remember one of my speakers cratered. I bought a pair of speakers that a local auto audio shop was trying to sell for about $100, found exact same model at Walmart for about $60. I think Crutchfield also wanted about $100 for them Don't remember what brand, some 'usual' name brand speakers.
But I thought these would be a step up front the 'stock' speakers in my Ranger. Everyone wants to put some kind of aftermarket speakers in, and these didn't cost much, but they weren't the $20 for a pair no-name things I have seen in some places. But when replacing the blown one, I could easily see the magnet in the stock Premium speaker was about twice the size and weight of the aftermarket. I decided to see how the new one compared with the old one on the other size. With 8 years age or so on it, the orginial speaker was obviously a better sounding speaker than the replacement. I went ahead and replaced the other side just to keep them balanced.
Sometime, stock stuff is pretty good.
Inside there, near the actual door handle, key lock mechanism is the switch. Some people say a lot of WD40 or electrical cleaner thru the door handle hole can reach it without taking the panel off.
I would take the panel off. THe switch might have to be replaced.
Take off the steering wheel neck guards and the switch is held on by 2 screws, detach the wiring and replace with new switch, and put everything back in order.
This is only one opinion ive heard, and we may have diffrent cases, but ill let you know what total deal is with my lights soon.
Cooo
Lucien Lenoire
What you need is a mutlimeter, and pull the first connector in front of the tail lights. Put one probe of the multmeter into one of the connector and have a friend help.
Have the friend turn on the headlight, the turn signal, and put it into reverse, and push on the brake - while you move the probe around the connectors. This will show you what wires handle what functions.
I would think you are looking for the backup lights, to trigger the camera....
Thanks Fire
"Looks like all power goes thru the 'multifunction (MF)' switch just after the main headlight switch. MF is the left side 'stalk' with turn signals, high beam, etc. This switch may be bad. "
I said the multifunction switch may be bad.
I've got exactly the same problem on my defender.
Was there already a link to these wiring diagrams?... I've been looking everywhere.
See Page 59.
http://www.indigoprime.com/landrover/Defender%20MY2002%20Wiring%20Diagram.pdf
Let me know if any else fixes their problem.
Regards,
Norm
The switch in the driver's door isn't working, to turn the dome light on.
The light switch isn't working to turn the dome light on. But, are you sure this is supposed to work this way? I don't remember about my 94. But I do know my newer cars no longer have the light switch turning the interior light on. Either open the door,or there is a button on the light itself that turns it on, not the light switch.
If you have the owner's manual, it will tell you how the lights work.
I HAVE A 94 FORD RANGER 6 CYL AND I HAD A CLUTCH PROBLEM AND FIXED IT WITH A BUDDY OF MINE AND WHEN WE TRY TO START THE TRUCK SHE WENT DEAD. I PUT IN A NEW BATTERY, SOLENOID AND NOTHING WORKS??? JUST DEAD.........
PLEASE HELP....
THANK YOU,
LENNY
Thanks for the help.
Running, the alternator should throw a steady 13 to 15 volts measured at the battery. This value will vary according to the temperature and if the battery is discharged.
The gauge in the truck is a voltmeter. If it is wildly varying while the truck is running, you probably have an alternator that is malfunctioning. If a cell in a battery is going bad, it could cause non-normal readings on the gauge, which could be either low or high, and could jump around some, but usually will not 'wildly vary'.
If you have another vehicle, and can do it, take the alternator out and take it to Autozone, etc - they can test it. Also might take the battery in, you might have got a defective new battery.
Of course, there could also be loose/bad/corroded wiring somewhere. The first thing to look at would be both battery cables. Any corrosion showing should be checked. The cables can be 'eaten up' inside the insulation and not visible. Check the connections to the battery posts also, make sure the connections are firm. And the connection where the ground wire is bolted to the block, and where the positive wire connects to - whatever - could be the starter, a relay, etc, etc. And then there are lots and lots of possibilities in the other ignition, charging, etc wiring all over the car.
Clicking at the 'start' position many times means a discharged or failed battery. The clicking is the starter solonid attempting to engage, but there is not adequate voltage to keep it engaged, it just pops back and forth, and all you hear is a click while it is doing this.
If things go dead when turned to the 'on' position - I don't even have a guess.
Unless it also is a very bad battery, and it can't even drive the dash lights, etc and you are hearing some small relay attempting to engage, doing the same thing as described above for the starter solonid (which is just a big relay).
Every so often, this happens, but it has become more frequent recently.
1. Dome light comes on when door is open, but will take a few minutes to go off after the door is closed and the engine is started or it will not turn off at all. I noticed a surge the light gets brighter when I start the engine. Also, the light remains on even when the truck is not running or idle and all doors are closed.
2. The door/seat belt chime also will not turn off. This is very annoying.
3. The head lights will turn off while I'm driving and come back on after a few seconds.
Finally, the ignition switch may play a role in this mayhelm, because it is loose and sometimes this stops the chime, but only when the engine has been turned off and I move the switch to a certain position.
If anyone has experience fixing the above problems please drop me a line.
A ford service personnel says it might be the Door Jam Switch or Multi-Function Module, and the Head Lamp Module may be bad.
To Fault Trace these problems will be very expensive. Can someone suggest a less expensive solution?
Where the switches located inside the door panel?
Any info about the head light problem?