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Ford Ranger Lighting and Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • esmithesmith Member Posts: 13
    I have a 98 ranger that has no power at the fuel inertia switch. I have verified power at the relay, and have even jumpered the contacts with a paper clip. Still no power at the inertia switch plug. (I have the switch unplugged and expecting 12 volts on the green/yellow wire) It appears to be a severed wire but does anyone know the route that the harness takes to go from the fuel pump relay to the inertia switch and PCM? Any advise would be appreciated.
  • rangerhead94rangerhead94 Member Posts: 3
    sending unit is made to fuel pump. u have to replace whole essembly.thats what i had to do.
  • buster15buster15 Member Posts: 38
    Can someone tell me if the drl have a relay and if so where it is located?

    thank you
  • kevin97116kevin97116 Member Posts: 15
    It is (past)time to replace my factory AM/FM/Cassette in my 1995 4x4 Ranger with something with a few more bells and whistles. I've got the both power leads and both grounds identified and hooked up (via Chilton's manual) but still have 16 wires unaccounted for. They don't match color code in Chilton's manual. What's worse, the colors coming out of the back of the radio and going into the harness are not the colors that end up at the speakers themselves. I've even tried tracking them with an ohm meter, no luck.

    Does anyone know what colors at the back of the stock radio end up at which speaker? Or maybe more importantly, how does one hook up the 8 speaker wires on a new AM/FM/CD/HDr to the existing wiring harness so everything works right?Thanks,
    Kevin
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Only thing I can tell you - I owned a 1994 Ranger with the Premium Sound option. This package actually had an amp separate from the head unit.

    Since the wires leaving the head unit don't color match the wires at the speakers, I bet this is what you have.

    I think the amp is in the dash, passenger side. Not actually sure of this.

    I do remember one of my speakers cratered. I bought a pair of speakers that a local auto audio shop was trying to sell for about $100, found exact same model at Walmart for about $60. I think Crutchfield also wanted about $100 for them Don't remember what brand, some 'usual' name brand speakers.

    But I thought these would be a step up front the 'stock' speakers in my Ranger. Everyone wants to put some kind of aftermarket speakers in, and these didn't cost much, but they weren't the $20 for a pair no-name things I have seen in some places. But when replacing the blown one, I could easily see the magnet in the stock Premium speaker was about twice the size and weight of the aftermarket. I decided to see how the new one compared with the old one on the other size. With 8 years age or so on it, the orginial speaker was obviously a better sounding speaker than the replacement. I went ahead and replaced the other side just to keep them balanced.

    Sometime, stock stuff is pretty good.
  • folky87folky87 Member Posts: 1
    alright so I have a 98 ford ranger. recently my headlghts stopped working. I do not have DRL. when i turn my headlight switch on my parking lights will come on but my headlamps won't. flipping my turn signal switch forward to put my brights on does not work either. but when I pull my turn signal switch back my brights do come on. My fog lights aren't working either. anyone have any ideas as to what this might be? I thought I might need to replace the headlight switch.
  • raziateraziate Member Posts: 1
    Hey recently since i had my truck broken into, i had my stereo deck ripped out of my truck. ever since then my constant power wire through the truck seems to have stoped work. cant find the reason why, but ever since this happened. i have no dash lights, everything is fine on the dash unit. gauges work, speedometer, ext. everything but the dash lights. i was wondering if anyone knows how you can fix this issue? have to stick with the truck for a few more months just wanna fix this
  • wcramerwcramer Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 ford ranger xlt. I have been having problems with the fuse that is for the wipers and speedometer burning out. what can i do to fix this issue??
  • rangerdude1rangerdude1 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1997 ford ranger and the interior dome light stays on all the time even when you close the doors or start the engine. Someone told me it could be the door relays but I have no idea where to find them could someone help me.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Have to take the door panels off.

    Inside there, near the actual door handle, key lock mechanism is the switch. Some people say a lot of WD40 or electrical cleaner thru the door handle hole can reach it without taking the panel off.

    I would take the panel off. THe switch might have to be replaced.
  • 02ranger102ranger1 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my '02 ranger about 3 years ago. The dome light stayed on for around 10 to 15 seconds then go off, after a short while later it stayed on in increasing intervals and going to my local Ford dealer and being told it would cost $70 to look at it, I sprayed the hinges, key holes, and the part that actually holds the door closed in place on both doors with WD 40. This has actually fixed the problem, I have not had the first second of trouble with it since.
  • f1ref1ghter82f1ref1ghter82 Member Posts: 2
    :sick: 2000 Ford Ranger driver side headlight and directional is dim and right side works okay and wiper will not work with headlight on
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Either a short to ground (drawing current and making light dim) in the wiring before the lights, or a bad ground (not allowing current to flow thru the light) in the wiring after the lights, on that side.
  • seasonoffearseasonoffear Member Posts: 1
    Did you get an answer I am having the same exact problem?
  • romanlavoy206romanlavoy206 Member Posts: 2
    I am having the same problem. My highbeams and turn signals work but headlight dont work. The problem began some time ago when the headlight wouldnt turn on, but when i tapped the signal switch which also turns on the high beams it popped on. So i figured it was some wiring going bad, because everything else worked and even now still works (high beams, turn signals, wipers). Anywho does anybody have a clue to what is going on and how this can be fixed? is it a easy fix? Im going to investigate at a couple auto joints and if find anything i will report back.
  • brianp3brianp3 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 ranger. What reason would my right hand side turn signals not work. The bulbs are fine... but only the right side does not work. Any ideas?
  • romanlavoy206romanlavoy206 Member Posts: 2
    This is one answer ive heard so far, and im still checking things out. The highbeam switch/blinker/washer has gone bad. The wiring for the headlights and hig beams go through it. Obvious because when clicking it foward go highbeams to stay on they dont work, they only work when you pull the switch arm back towards you where you must hold for the lights to stay on. The part can be a little over 100$ brand new, but ive been told to go to a scrap yard and ask about that part, you could get it for like 25$. The part is easy to replace yourself.
    Take off the steering wheel neck guards and the switch is held on by 2 screws, detach the wiring and replace with new switch, and put everything back in order.

    This is only one opinion ive heard, and we may have diffrent cases, but ill let you know what total deal is with my lights soon.
    Cooo
  • luckylucienluckylucien Member Posts: 4
    I am trying to install a rear view camera. I need a wiring diagram for the taillight. There are three wires going to the taillight assembly, a dark green with yellow stripe a grey wire and a yellow. what wires do what?
    Lucien Lenoire
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Well, I don't have a electrical diagram, especially when you don't tell what year Ranger you are talking about.

    What you need is a mutlimeter, and pull the first connector in front of the tail lights. Put one probe of the multmeter into one of the connector and have a friend help.

    Have the friend turn on the headlight, the turn signal, and put it into reverse, and push on the brake - while you move the probe around the connectors. This will show you what wires handle what functions.

    I would think you are looking for the backup lights, to trigger the camera....
  • mark150mark150 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 ranger with headlight issues - lamps won't come on when I pull the h.l. switch out - all others do (parking, tail, etc...) - power at fuse inside engine compartment, fuse good, no power at lamp - put in new headlight switch, same problem. Lamps come on bright when you pull in the dimmer switch, but not with headlamp switch - i don't get any lights (highs or lows)
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Looks like all power goes thru the 'multifunction (MF)' switch just after the main headlight switch. MF is the left side 'stalk' with turn signals, high beam, etc. This switch may be bad.
  • f1ref1ghter82f1ref1ghter82 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you bolivar but we have checked the grounds with NO LUCK do you have anything else???
    Thanks Fire
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Grounds? I didn't say anything about grounds.

    "Looks like all power goes thru the 'multifunction (MF)' switch just after the main headlight switch. MF is the left side 'stalk' with turn signals, high beam, etc. This switch may be bad. "

    I said the multifunction switch may be bad.
  • dean111dean111 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks. Great explanation.

    I've got exactly the same problem on my defender.

    Was there already a link to these wiring diagrams?... I've been looking everywhere.

    See Page 59.
    http://www.indigoprime.com/landrover/Defender%20MY2002%20Wiring%20Diagram.pdf

    Let me know if any else fixes their problem.
  • dean111dean111 Member Posts: 2
    I mean let me know if anyone fixes their problem. I haven't done it yet.
  • jherrjherr Member Posts: 4
    I have a 92 ranger 4 cylinder. My turn signals stopped working. They don't even light up. My wipers, hazards, horn, head lights all work fine. I checked the fuse it's good, I checked the bulbs they are good. Is there a relay somewhere I need to check?
  • buster15buster15 Member Posts: 38
    How about a relay switch?
  • jherrjherr Member Posts: 4
    I can't seem to find a relay switch. Does anyone know where it is located or how many there are?
  • jherrjherr Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the advise on my turn signals. It was the hazard/turn signal fuse. They work now.
  • ncherryncherry Member Posts: 5
    Passenger door turns dome light on, but driver side door and the instrument panel switch on the dash do not. Is this one problem or two? I have Chilton's but it doesn't show associated wiring for the dome light, door, or dash switch. Any assistance appreciated.
    Regards,
    Norm
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I would think two.

    The switch in the driver's door isn't working, to turn the dome light on.

    The light switch isn't working to turn the dome light on. But, are you sure this is supposed to work this way? I don't remember about my 94. But I do know my newer cars no longer have the light switch turning the interior light on. Either open the door,or there is a button on the light itself that turns it on, not the light switch.

    If you have the owner's manual, it will tell you how the lights work.
  • ncherryncherry Member Posts: 5
    mis-spoke. Not the "light" switch but the dask board dimmer switch. When rolled to brightest position is supposed to turn on interior light. There is supposed to be a detent which you can feel, but I can't feel one. I guess both the door and dimmer switches need to be replaced. Thanks.
  • ranger02ranger02 Member Posts: 1
    Check engine light does not come on when truck is started. Suspect bulb is burned out... Looks light a nightmare to get to. Any suggestions for ease of bulb replacement??
  • lennysernalennyserna Member Posts: 1
    HELLO THERE!

    I HAVE A 94 FORD RANGER 6 CYL AND I HAD A CLUTCH PROBLEM AND FIXED IT WITH A BUDDY OF MINE AND WHEN WE TRY TO START THE TRUCK SHE WENT DEAD. I PUT IN A NEW BATTERY, SOLENOID AND NOTHING WORKS??? JUST DEAD.........

    PLEASE HELP....
    THANK YOU,
    LENNY
  • johnnym564johnnym564 Member Posts: 3
    my 88 did that. The only thing that worked on the whole truck was the headlights.It ended up being a bad wire under passenger front fender.Sounds like something in the wiring,
  • trigun1trigun1 Member Posts: 1
    Fuses are good bulbs are good. Light dont work. Does this thing have a flasher unit? If so where? Its a 1996 ranger xlt. Any help would be great. Thanks.
  • rthorstedrthorsted Member Posts: 2
    your flasher is under the dash to the right of the column
  • rthorstedrthorsted Member Posts: 2
    I dont have a owners book to tell me what fuse is the high beam but have tested all on the side of the dash, the haynes book said its #33 but i don't have a 33 so any help would be great.
  • jwood92jwood92 Member Posts: 2
  • jwood92jwood92 Member Posts: 2
    My son just bought a 2000 Ranger 4wd with the 3.0. While driving the tach drops to 0 until he either guns it or stops and restarts. What should I look for and where to begin to repair this issue???
    Thanks for the help.
  • ryanl1217ryanl1217 Member Posts: 2
  • ryanl1217ryanl1217 Member Posts: 2
    Hey got a '92 Ranger. Idiot me left the lights on one night, obiously killed the battery. I got a jump and ran it and the alternator charged it but it wouldnt start. I took it to where I got the battery they tested it and said the the battery was 12v but the CCA's were bad in it so they gave me a new one. Now I came back from hunting and this time I did not leave anything on and I go to start it and same thing. I noticed the first time my gauge was jumping all over the place but it read a steady 12v on my multimeter. This time it is jumping everywhere again but I haven't looked on the meter. Any advice?
  • bilko1bilko1 Member Posts: 1
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    A nicely charged battery, at the battery terminals, car not running, ignition off, should show 12.6 volts, using a nice multimeter.

    Running, the alternator should throw a steady 13 to 15 volts measured at the battery. This value will vary according to the temperature and if the battery is discharged.

    The gauge in the truck is a voltmeter. If it is wildly varying while the truck is running, you probably have an alternator that is malfunctioning. If a cell in a battery is going bad, it could cause non-normal readings on the gauge, which could be either low or high, and could jump around some, but usually will not 'wildly vary'.

    If you have another vehicle, and can do it, take the alternator out and take it to Autozone, etc - they can test it. Also might take the battery in, you might have got a defective new battery.

    Of course, there could also be loose/bad/corroded wiring somewhere. The first thing to look at would be both battery cables. Any corrosion showing should be checked. The cables can be 'eaten up' inside the insulation and not visible. Check the connections to the battery posts also, make sure the connections are firm. And the connection where the ground wire is bolted to the block, and where the positive wire connects to - whatever - could be the starter, a relay, etc, etc. And then there are lots and lots of possibilities in the other ignition, charging, etc wiring all over the car.
  • mmastudentmmastudent Member Posts: 1
    when i turn the key to the on position i lose all power to the truck..i can hear a clicking near the fuse box area on the passenger side when the key turned to the on position. the truck will not even turn over or do anything else...only the clicking.Is this an electrical short and if so where would it be?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Do you mean the 'on' position or the 'start' position?

    Clicking at the 'start' position many times means a discharged or failed battery. The clicking is the starter solonid attempting to engage, but there is not adequate voltage to keep it engaged, it just pops back and forth, and all you hear is a click while it is doing this.

    If things go dead when turned to the 'on' position - I don't even have a guess.

    Unless it also is a very bad battery, and it can't even drive the dash lights, etc and you are hearing some small relay attempting to engage, doing the same thing as described above for the starter solonid (which is just a big relay).
  • dper299dper299 Member Posts: 19
    I have a 98 Ranger 4x4, 4.0 liter V6 vin X, My problem is, When the vehicle sits for about 6 hrs in about 40 deg or below temps when I start it (with no problems) all the lights flicker at idle until the vehicle warms up,When I rev it up the flickering stops.But when its about 40 deg or above it doesnt happen...Could this be the alternator going bad or hanging up in the cold. When I put a meter on the battery it shows 14.5 volts when running and 12.5 when off....Any ideas,,Thanks :confuse:
  • ctford1ctford1 Member Posts: 2
    1994 Ford Ranger XLT dome light will not turn off and the open door or seat belt chime keeps beeping.

    Every so often, this happens, but it has become more frequent recently.
    1. Dome light comes on when door is open, but will take a few minutes to go off after the door is closed and the engine is started or it will not turn off at all. I noticed a surge the light gets brighter when I start the engine. Also, the light remains on even when the truck is not running or idle and all doors are closed.
    2. The door/seat belt chime also will not turn off. This is very annoying.
    3. The head lights will turn off while I'm driving and come back on after a few seconds.
    Finally, the ignition switch may play a role in this mayhelm, because it is loose and sometimes this stops the chime, but only when the engine has been turned off and I move the switch to a certain position.
    If anyone has experience fixing the above problems please drop me a line.

    A ford service personnel says it might be the Door Jam Switch or Multi-Function Module, and the Head Lamp Module may be bad.
    To Fault Trace these problems will be very expensive. Can someone suggest a less expensive solution?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Replacing both door jab switches, which are inexpensive, would be the first and easiest thing to try. Or, even cheeper, spray the heck out of these switches with WD-40.
  • ctford1ctford1 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, I will give the WD-40 a try and then change out the switches if that does'nt do the job.

    Where the switches located inside the door panel?

    Any info about the head light problem?
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