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Volkswagen GTI Maintenance and Repair

13

Comments

  • extech2extech2 Member Posts: 120
    If we assume your battery isn't defective, the no start problem is caused by a weak alternator or a drain on the system. The way to check it is disconnecting a battery cable and checking the draw between that post and the cable with an ammeter. I don't remember the exact procedure. Once a draw has been found, they disconnect the fuses one-by-one, and this gives them a clue where is the component which gives you a problem. Certain items like the clock or computers might draw a minuscule amount, but you need to find the component which draws more then normal. I can't remember the specs, but it varies from car to car. Please let us know whatever you found.
  • halpethalpet Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 MkV with DSG and Automatic climate control.

    On my way to work last wednesday I hit the A/C and nothing but warm air, about mid way through my ride to work it magically starts blowing ice cold. I turn it down as its getting cold, the compressor kicks off never to come back on. On my lunch hour that day the same thing to a tee. On my way home the same thing with a little twist. After the A/C had started working I was at a light, light turns green go to hit the gas and nothing...RPM's drop to about 1-200 and then the engine shuts down. I push it to the side of the road wait a few minutes and start it up. It seems fine, I figure I'll try and make it to the dealer which is a short distance away. I make it no problem.

    On a side note the car has been trouble free until last month when the front end was making noises while turning. Turned out it needed strut bearings, it took a while to fix because to quote the dealer he had to take the whole front end apart. Whether this relates to the A/C issues or not who knows.

    The dealer did call me yesterday and says he sees the problem with the A/C but has no idea why its happening and why the car would have shutdown like it did. He needs to do further testing....

    Has anyone experienced a similar problem with either the struts or the A/C?
  • j14152j14152 Member Posts: 6
    I have owned my base model 2007 GTI Turbo with DSG transmission, for less than 1000 miles and several months. I got a good deal, which was $2400 off the MSRP of $23,935, the bottom line price on the window sticker, with no dealer add-ons, no trade - a little better than 10% off.

    I am impressed with its power, handling, and soundproofing, After manual transmissions, the DSG is surely fun to play with. This car makes you want to drive fast by the way it feels, and I like that in a vehicle. But the car is not fully broken in yet, and I really haven't run it, or tried the "Launch Control" procedure in the owners manual. The seats are very comfortable for me, and I like the way they operate - power seats are unnecessary, IMO. The doors open almost ninety degrees. The ride is choppier than on other vehicles I've owned over small bumps and undulations, but that's fine with me, personally. Some might not like that.

    And - if you want some extra power, a turbo vehicle can be re-chipped relatively inexpensively. The factory has designed the powertrain for over 250 HP, whatever that means.

    I got mine with used, smoked tires, with chunked tread edges, and 30 miles on the OD. The dealer reluctantly replaced the tires, but won't even acknowledge that the car's service life has likely been compromised by that treatment (per the owners manual). I've filed a complaint with BBB, and we'll see what happens. I will either get a brand new car, or a full cash refund, or we'll resolve it in full civil court.

    I think I made a mistake buying this car, too. It's going to be a maintenance and repair nightmare, compared to the Honda products I've owned for 25 years. I never would have even thought of making this purchase without the four year warranty. Apparently, according to some of the forum comments, some dealers won't honor the warranty, and blame the owners for (excessive) quality control problems.

    I knew of VW's (legendary) unreliability and mechanical weakness before I bought this vehicle. Over time, I had advised lots of folks not to consider a VW purchase. I usually keep my vehicles, but I saw selling my VW under warranty as an "early out". It didn't take me very many days of ownership to know I had to sell it before the warranty expires, because I don't want to have to afford to keep it running!

    A seat handle fell off before I even touched it. Sometimes the power windows won't move while driving. All of the mirrors are a bit small, and right quarter visibility is almost non-existent for me, anyway. A few times, the computer-controlled DSG shifting and downshifting "misbehaves", for the want of a better way to describe some unusual shifting behavior, and sometimes it's response is sluggish. The door panel was scuffed before delivery, and I didn't see it until afterward. The upholstery is going to be a real bear to keep clean. The cup holders are almost non-existent, and there is no logical place to put a decent aftermarket cup holder. Armrest and compartment storage is minimal and limited. There is really no place for coins, toothpicks, or other small items.

    If you remove the battery, (to install the vacuum-boost gauge that should have come with the car), or the battery goes dead (because someone didn't hear the headlight chime with traffic going by), the airbag warning light will need to be reset at the dealership (and you're not supposed to charge the battery yourself, either). Lots of other ECU fault memories will also be triggered.

    Or - you will need a laptop computer and the Ross-Tech VAG Com diagnostic connector and software, and the Bentley repair manual, and the skill to use it, to do this yourself. Same with the service interval indicator. Without this extra $1000 of equipment, you are almost married to a dealership for as long as you own this vehicle.

    (BTW - with this Ross-tech software, you can slightly change the Speedo ratio, to match your GPS reading, which is very accurate).

    Then, lots of other stuff is quirky, like the parking light switch, which doesn't work the lights like any other car I've owned in forty years. It makes this sucking, groaning sound if you get into the boost range, which I see as anything BUT cool. The mileage sucks (about 22 mpg average, driven easy) compared with EPA mileage specs of 25-32 city-highway. The gauge lighting is beautiful, but it's trashed with a bright, non-dimmable red LED computer display in the middle of the instrument panel. The radio is a LCD display that can't be read easily during the day, especially while wearing sunglasses. What a design clash!

    The black strip paint around the B pillar is soft, and easily scratched or marred. The armrest will break if you lean too hard on it when iots extended. If someone backs into you, very easy, the shiny black area on the front bumper will show it. It's going to be almost impossible to clean the bugs off of the front hex grille areas.

    Oil changes are full synthetic, with oil meeting VW's 502.00 (euro) specs, which is hard to find in the US. The oil filter is a replaceable element filter, costing maybe $10-$14, not the spin-on type. Changing the transmission fluid and filter is an ordeal, costing $200+ at the dealership. Fluid - $15.00 per quart, or liter, I'm not sure which. Filter - $50 or thereabouts.

    My Integra GSR never got less than the City EPA mileage, and I never worried about how I used the gas pedal on that car, because it didn't make that much difference in the mileage. It has cost me almost nothing in extra, non-maintenance parts for the 12 years I owned it - a new thermostat & gasket, a radio antenna, and a few rubber boots and parts.

    It could have been worse - I could have paid another 10 grand for the Audi, which is the same basic car wearing a different set of clothes, wiht the same basic quality and reliability problems.

    Still, this is a fun car to drive!
  • j14152j14152 Member Posts: 6
    I think it is just fine to change the oil when you get home. A 3000-5000 mile oil change, under this interstate service, is just throwing your money away. VW's service interval is 10K on my 07 GTI, after the first 10000 miles.

    Your mileage will be highway mileage which is easy miles.
    With most any other car, using non-synthetic oil, a factory service interval under these conditions is 7500 miles.

    I have changed my oil at 3000-4000 miles, typically, with "intermediate" service (not "normal" service, and not "severe' service). This is overkill. But paying $1 per qt, and buying a $3 filter, which sometimes I do not change - who cares - change it anyway if it's convenient. With a $40-60 oil change, and full synthetic oil, away from home - it changes the picture a bit.

    Maybe 10-15 years ago, Consumer Reports bought a dozen Slant Sixes, brand new, from Chrysler Corp. Then they took them apart and carefully measured and spec'ed them.

    Then (after reassembling them), they put 10 of them into taxi service in New York City, and changed the oil at 5000 mile intervals for 60,000 miles, then they took them apart and measured them again. The results -no measurable wear on any of these engines.

    They put the other two engines into the same service, but changed the oil at 12,000 mile intervals. This time they measured some significant wear.

    What this says, is that 3000-5000 mile oil changes are typically being very, very good to your vehicle. Elsewhere, I have come across some reliable comments that anything less than a 5000 mile interval is throwing your money away, supporting the above.

    A 6000-7000 mile interval, at mostly highway speeds, with full synthetic oil, with very little use of turbo boost and heat effects, especially with synthetic oil, certainly cannot hurt a GTI's engine, or any modern turbo engine, for that matter.
  • flynngirlflynngirl Member Posts: 3
    I loved loved loved my car from when I got it in Dec to last week. My 2007 VW GTI with less than 12,000 miles had trouble starting in the morning last week. This has happened once before. I got not quite a mile away after it finally started when the engine light came on. I was on hold for service at the local dealership 30 seconds later stopped at a red light. When the light changed, the car went about 7ft into the busy intersection and just died. It would not start and I had to get help pushing it into a parking lot. After being towed to dealership, they said the fuel pump was bad and needed to be replaced. Problem is, one can't be located apparently in the county or in any other right now. I have been w/out my car for a week and am waiting to hear back on my request for the dealership to rob a new car for it's fuel pump and send it back to vw heaven so I can have my car back. I have owned at least 10 hondas in my life and loved everyone of them. I recommend people in the market really listen to owners that warn of these continuous problems. I wished that I had. :sick:
  • eldainoeldaino Member Posts: 1,618
    if you owned nothing but hondas and have previously heard the 'problems' why did you buy a vw?

    did you take it to the dealer to get it checked the first time you had trouble? what about oil changes and service?

    such an iffy post...pretty common around these parts i guess.
  • flynngirlflynngirl Member Posts: 3
    I bought in December of '06 before there was much out there about the new GTI's. At that point it was pretty much positive. I had to wait a month to get the 4dr exactly like I wanted it with the DSG, no leather, no nav. As for oil changes I just had my second one. Dealer recommends every 5000 miles, so I forked over the $80 or so already twice. I did here back from them yesterday after my post and apparently my fuel pump is on back order with no ETA. Has anyone heard of trading a car in while in service? They say it could be weeks before I get it back...
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    11th commandment:

    Thou shalt not purchase a new car early in production cycle, lest one desires to become a beta tester for the automotive industry...

    So let it be written... :shades:
  • eldainoeldaino Member Posts: 1,618
    word! ;)
  • extech2extech2 Member Posts: 120
    Do you get a free rental car while waiting for parts? If you don't the least they should do is extend your warranty coverage by a month or two as a form of compensation. I replaced hundreds of fuel pumps on Hondas, but seldom on a car with less than 40 thousand miles. Fuel pumps are not serviceable items and they can go out like a light bulb, without any indication of trouble. Good luck to you.
  • flynngirlflynngirl Member Posts: 3
    Actually the dealership did provide a loaner which I've put over 1000 miles on already due to some necessary small trips. They gave me a new Jetta and they were fairly easy to work with. I will ask for the extension on warranty, however-a really good idea. They said they expect the pump to be in sometime this week...thanks for the advice.
  • dlebar04dlebar04 Member Posts: 6
    Hello Forum! First of all, this is a great place for info From buying to owning to selling. I love this place.

    I got a question that I am not sure where I could find some help. I got a 2003 VW GTI that is making a loud whomping noise when I am going from about 25mph to 10mph. The car makes this noise whether the car is in gear or not (It's a manual). Currently the car has 40K miles.

    It seems like it is coming from underneath the engine. It also shakes the car a little bit. The noise follows the speed of the car, meaning that when I am slowing down, the frequency of the noise also slows down.

    I just had a 40K mile maintenance done at the dealer, but I can't take it back until tuesday, and I was planning on doing a 700mile trip with the car on monday.

    Does anyone have any idea what this could be?

    Thanks in advance for any help!!
  • extech2extech2 Member Posts: 120
    My guess it's a bad tire - possible thread separation. Try this on a road with no traffic: accelerate to 40 mph, put it in neutral, and shut off the engine for a few seconds. Your power steering and brakes won't work so be careful. If you still hear it start looking at tires and driveshafts.
  • dtm6159dtm6159 Member Posts: 2
    I own a 1986 VW GTI with about 270k miles on it. Recently I killed the engine in first gear (not a very rough kill) at a stop line in a mall parking lot, and the engine refused to re-start. The starter and engine turned, but the engine would not start. after checking the spark plug I discovered that the engine was not flooded. (the plug had a light grey frost on it, indicating a lean fuel mixture) I plugged in the cold-start valve, and the engine reluctantly started up, but the temperature guage was pegged, and the light was flashing. I drove the car about 6-7 blocks home. During this 3-4 minute drive, the engine was making stressed whining noises, and seemed to be having a hard time. When I arrived at my driveway I promptly turned the engine off to allow it to cool off. I opened the engine compartment. The radiator was very warm. I returned to the cockpit, and turned the key into the 'on' position. The electrical systems in the engine went crazy, including the stereo, the dome light, the diagnostic lights, the gear lights, etc. seemingly the entire electrical system in the vehicle. I returned to the engine compartment and jiggled lights with no result. Frusterated, I allowed the engine to cool for about 25-30 minutes. The next attempt to start the vehicle was successful, and all electrical problems had vanished, except for the temperature guage, which was flashing and pegged instantly. The engine compartment however was not hot, and the engine seemed to be running fine except for a faily loud tick, which slowly got quieter, and eventually vanished. the radiator never overheated dispite the guage indication, and the fan was operating properly. After about 15 minutes the engine was running better than it had all week, leaving me totally baffled.

    Anyone know how to explain all this stuff?

    Thanks in advance,

    Dan
  • dtm6159dtm6159 Member Posts: 2
    'jiggled lights' should be 'jiggled wires'
  • eldainoeldaino Member Posts: 1,618
    could it be the simple fact that it has 270k on it?
  • extech2extech2 Member Posts: 120
    My first guess it's a bad ground wire connection in the engine bay or under the dash
  • ttbuyerttbuyer Member Posts: 45
    Thanks for posting this.

    The nightmare memories of my wife's 99 Carbio have been fading and I found myself considering a new 4-door GTI with the DSG.

    Thanks for the reality check.

    I must always always that even though they are appealing in many ways, VW's are junk.

    To quote "The Who" We Won't Get Fooled Again
  • paimonpaimon Member Posts: 3
    Be warned:

    Back in 2000, I bought a new GTI which was nothing but problems: clutch went out at 40,000 miles, glove box hinge broke twice, power window went out three times (the same plastic retainer clip snapped each time), both headlamps and most other exterior bulbs burned out, CD player went on the blink, AC would stop sporadically, turbo valve malfunctioned, etc.

    I had all maintenance done at the dealership and never abused the vehicle.

    I got desperate when the dealer advised me that the part required to repair my inoperative window -- stuck in the down position for the third time -- would not be available for weeks due to inadequate supply, and they could offer no further assistance. (Guess they thought I could just tape some trash bags over the opening.) I had to call the regional manager, who forced the dealer to order the part. I finally got everything repaired and traded in for a 2003 WRX. After 100,000 miles (same clutch, same brakes, no significant problems), I traded for a 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 (a few electrical problems at the onset, but no big deal). The WRX and Speed 3 were a little more expensive, but far superior in performance and reliability.

    After I traded the GTI, I got a notice about a lawsuit regarding faulty VW windows for 1998-2002 models. This means that VW had known about the problem (a plastic, not metal, clip was used to connect the glass to the window motor) for several years, but did nothing until they were sued.

    The bottom line is that VW, at least in 2000, made a grossly deficient, unreliable vehicle which looked good in the showroom but did little else. Based on some of the posts here, it seems that little has changed. While enthusiasts (like the folks in the automotive press) will tout the brand's European flair, performance edge and creature comforts, these aspects will never compensate for the cost and frustration of VW ownership.

    No warranty will restore the hours spent waiting at the repair shop or rental office, and no reimbursement will provide a sense of confidence in the vehicle overall. It's a shame, since my GTI, at a cost of $21,000, could have been the best $22,000 car on the road. VW simply chose to skimp on functional parts while adorning the cabin for test drive appeal. So, potential VW buyer, my advice to you is to fully evaluate offerings from Subaru, Mazda or other reliable brands before buying VW.

    You should have confidence in your new vehicle, and reliability concerns can ruin all the fun.

    Good luck, and safe motoring.
  • ambrockedambrocked Member Posts: 9
    Hi. I have a '97 GTI, and I've noticed that when I run the A/C for extended periods of time (over an hour or so) water starts to pool onto the floor on the passenger side. I'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem and/or maybe knows how to fix it? Thanks much!
    Amber
  • extech2extech2 Member Posts: 120
    More than likely the drain hose in the bottom of the evaporator case (behind the glove box) is kinked or plugged. Locate the hose and gently clear it with compressed air. The hose should end in an opening in the floor board and stick out about an inch to the outside to went the moisture which is created by the A/C system. If it's missing then you need a plastic or rubber hose approx. 10 inch long and maybe 4/8ths or 1/2 inch inner diameter.
  • ambrockedambrocked Member Posts: 9
    Awesome! Thanks for your help!!
  • ambrockedambrocked Member Posts: 9
    I just wanted to say thank you again- that was exactly the problem, it was clogged. I really appreciate your help!! =)
  • rraiffrraiff Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I was on a road trip the other week in my 2008 GTI, and a tire came off of a truck and hit the front of my car. The only thing I noticed is the black lip part on the bottom that protects from rocks and whatever else, seems to have been pushed in some, and its sticking out of the front a little bit.

    Anyone know if this would cause a problem? I hardly even noticed it. What would be the cost of replacing it?

    Also, I need to do my 10k maintenance, what does that normally run people?

    Thanks!
  • mn_petemn_pete Member Posts: 1
    If you are considering a VW, take a long hard look at their reliability records. I purchased a '00 GTI GLS brand new in 2000 and was attracted to the looks of the vehicle, the terrific sounding Monsoon sound system, and the promise of "German engineering" quality. I was leery of the anemic 2yr/24K warranty, but the dealer assured me they'd stand behind their vehicle. Well, they did, for 2yrs. Very shortly after that, I've had many electrical issues (burned out bulbs, defective sensors, dead battery). The latest issue was a broken water pump, which led to severe engine damage (warped head, damaged valves). It turns out the water pump is covered under a 10yr/100K warranty, but only if the work was performed at the dealer. I had the car repaired at a more conveniently located place which has always offered me a ride to work or the use of a loaner car (which VW does not provide). $4700 later (including repairs, towing, etc.), VW would not even reimburse me for the defective water pump which caused all the damage. The quality of this vehicle has always been poor. The same year, I purchased a new Honda CR-V which I've had no issues with. VW has a great marketing campaign, and flashy brochures - but when it comes to quality and customer service, they will leave you out in the cold.
  • lawbrokerlawbroker Member Posts: 5
    Hello, i'm in the process of buying a GTI from a dealer that is fairly far from my house even though there is one about 1 miles away (got a better price). My question is, when it comes time for the free scheduled maintenance and/or warranty work, does it matter what dealer I take it to?
  • oldtimer14oldtimer14 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Diesel VW Beetle. When I start it cold there is a clicking sound that causes the lights to flicker for a bout 5 minutes and then seems to go away. I am trying to find out if anyone ever experienced this. Could it be battery is going bad, or alternator output is down? Doesn't bother when it warms up a bit.
  • oldtimer14oldtimer14 Member Posts: 2
    I live 145 from my dealer in Casper, WY and have had no service from him whatsoever.
  • jnpsocjnpsoc Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 GTI and the A/C has now gone out 2 years in a row. Last year I got it serviced and it seemed better for about a month, but then it went out again. It's been tested and does not have a leak...anyone else had this problem or any idea how to fix it?
  • flossitflossit Member Posts: 25
    yes, i heard that from a couple of sources that the speedometer on the VW GTI is off by 7 or 8 mph. i test drove it three times, first the sales person test drove the car, he wanted to show me what this car can do. He went on a curve, did "60" around a curve(a ramp) but it felt slower than that, i peaked at the speedometer and it did say 60, but I swear it feels as though he was doing 45. It did not feel right. Yes, it was fun to throw that car around , but I'm very skeptical about a couple of things when it comes to VW.

    Yes, all makes might have their issues but VW has more than I would like to see compare to their competitor (honda civic,mazda 3). If I see 50 complains vs. 200 complains then that's a red flag to me.
  • flossitflossit Member Posts: 25
    I was on one of those VW GTI forum (different site), and the GTI owner said that he took his car in for an oil change and asked them about the 10,000 miles and they told him that it was a typo!! And oil change should be every 5,o0o miles. Well, at the dealership today I asked the sale rep. and he told me oil change every 10,000 miles! I told him the car will have problems if you go that long with out an oil change. I then call one of the merchanic (master technician) at a famous dealership and he told me not to wait that long because it will cause oil sludge.

    10,000 miles / oil change seems a bit too long for me. What do you folks think? :confuse:
  • mheinsmheins Member Posts: 4
    My oil looks so dark by 5000 miles that I change it every 3000. No way will I let mine go to 10K.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Ten thousand miles is actually conservative, IF you use the proper oil (i.e. 502.00 certified oil or better). I personally use Mobil 1 0W-40 (approved for 502.00 and 503.01), and my Used Oil Analysis (UOA) reports always come back showing that the oil is good for at least 12,000 miles.

    Long story short, the 10,000 mile OCI recommendation is perfectly acceptable if you read all of the other fine print around it (the print that describes the grade of oil required).

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Dark looking oil is in no way an indication that the oil is exhausted. In fact, many oils include additives that darken with heat as they "break-in", and until that break-in process is complete, the oil doen't protect up to its full potential. Said another way, fresh clean new oil often causes higher wear rates than oil with thousands of miles on it. Don't believe me? Cool, go and check the oil forums (especially the UOA database) over on Bob Is The Oil Guy web site. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • flossitflossit Member Posts: 25
    personally, i wouldn't wait that long regardless of the color. just to be on the safe side, 3000-6000 miles. i email another merchanic (second one) and i quote " the longer you wait the more sludge" people can do whatever they want regardless of what the lable or manual indicate, i'm sticking to the good old 3000-6000 :D
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    So basically you're ignoring all of the scientific and empirical evidence and going with what you think is right, regardless of what the engineers tell you. Like it or don't, there is zero evidence to support the notion that running a high quality synthetic oil (and oils that meet VW's 502.00 oil specification are oils that meet that criteria) ten thousand miles will cause an engine to sludge, errr, that is unless there is an underlying problem with said engine.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • flossitflossit Member Posts: 25
    you can call it whatever you want and anybody out there can do whatever they want. like i have stated before, i'm going to continue doing the oil change every 3000-6000 miles. :D
  • flossitflossit Member Posts: 25
    i guess i'm not a scientific type of a person :D
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Regarding the schleeter site, it's full of partial truths, misstated facts, outright fabrications, and lots of scare mongering. Case in point, I've owned two cars on that list, and have performed oil changes with no less than 10,000 miles accrued since the last change (using a VW 502.00 certified oil). The engines in question currently have a combined 300,000 miles on them and are so clean on the inside that you'd swear that the engines had just been built. To take it one step further, I pulled the head off of one of the engines (when it had over 143,000 miles on it) chasing an elusive coolant leak (the leak turned out to be in a ten cent "O" ring elsewhere in the cooling system), and not only were things nice and clean inside, I could still see all of the honing marks on the cylinder walls.

    In the end it comes down to faith, you have faith that frequent oil changes are going to prolong the life of your engine; many of us (me included) believe the scientifically and empirically derived evidence that shows that frequent oil changes with high quality synthetic oil is an absolute waste of time, money and resources.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • flossitflossit Member Posts: 25
    i stated my point and you did yours. people can do whatever they choose. i'm sticking to what i have been doing for many many years. :D
  • madmanmoomadmanmoo Member Posts: 2,039
    I've always been confused by folks who refuse to believe what the manual states. VW says 10k miles before you need to get your oil changed as long as you are using their recommended oil. Why would the manufacturer purposely lead you astray?

    And their argument always comes down to: "That's the way I've always done it." Logic and reason are not their best friends. :)
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Some of us subscribe to the Church of 3,000 Mile Oil Changes, some of us (me included) think the Church preaches a bunch of hogwash. I guess that makes me an atheist. ;)

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • banibani Member Posts: 39
    probably because the last time people believed what the manual states, they ended up with sludged engines and expensive repair bills.
  • flossitflossit Member Posts: 25
    BANI,

    you got that right. :D
  • flossitflossit Member Posts: 25
    Madmanmoo,

    ofcourse you would say that you work for one ,"Why would the manufacturer purposely lead you astray?" don't be so naive folks. :D
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I'm thinking that you shouldn't be so naïve as to believe that they don't know what they're talking about either.
  • flossitflossit Member Posts: 25
    Sure, they know EXACTLY what they are doing. :D
  • madmanmoomadmanmoo Member Posts: 2,039
    I just don't understand your reasoning.

    Do you truly believe that a huge manufacturer like VW has not done extensive and rigorous testing on their engines? It seems a little arrogant to me that you believe your experience with a handful of cars makes you more knowledgeable than a manufacturer who has experience with millions.

    A manufacturer would not print in their manual that the oil change interval is 10k if it wasn't. If changing your oil at 10k would lead to oil sludge, then they would have huge warranty claims because of that. It would cost them even more money. Why wouldn't they just tell people 5k or 3k and be on the safe side?

    It sounds to me like you're one of those folks who believes in conspiracy theories. No amount of evidence or logic will stand in the way of your opinions.
  • flossitflossit Member Posts: 25
    10,000 miles per oil change is CRAZY! they probably did the test with the car in a perfect running condition with the just the right temperture, right climate, humidity so on and so forth. Don't let that motor go bad folks, I rather do it every 5000-6000 miles ,pay $75 and save my motor and costly repairs. Vw is just like any other dealership, the longer you prolong it the worst it gets. My girlfriend has a honda accord and we called four dealerships, one said not to get the power steering fluid change and the other saids that we should do it after so many mileage. Go figure. I rather spend $60 than $600 . :D
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