Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Thanks, first_truck
I highly recommend that you get that Lucas stuff out of there. Mopar automatics use a special ATF (ATF+4) that can be easily destabilized by incorrect or incompatible fluids.
Regards,
Dusty
Thanks in advance for your help.
Tony
Regards,
Dusty
I've owned my 3.9L V6 2000 Dodge Dakota 2WD since buying it brand new in well 2000. Over the last three years or so once in awhile while making a left turn the tranny (automatic) will slip out of gear and hesitate. I've gotten used to it and it doesn't seem to really harm the truck but I'd like to fix it if possible to prolong the life of the truck. I intend to replace the throttle position sensor as I've read on here to see if that works but I wanted to see if anyone else on here was having a similar issue.
It is a V6
Thanks
Tony
Sorry about the late response.
You have a 42RE transmission.
Based on your description of the symptom I would say there is a problem. Some possibilities are list as follows:
*Low fluid level or foaming (possible transmission overheating)
*Clogged transmission filter
*Clogged cooler lines
*Throttle Position Cable misadjusted
*Gear shift linkage out of adjustment; kinked or binding shift cable
*Partially restricted Anti-drain Back Valve (excessively dirty fluid)
*Low hydraulic pressure caused by a weak pump, Valve Body malfunction or warpage, leaking clutch or ring seals, leaking Servo.
*Rear Clutch malfunction;worn clutch or leaking clutch seals.
Valve body wear is usually found on high mileage vehicles. Sticking valve body components usually indicate expired or very dirty ATF. Rear clutch wear at lower mileage usually indicates that the transmission had been overheated at one time, probably from pulling an excessively heavy load or towing with the overdrive engaged, or pulling heavy loads/towing in hilly country with the overdrive engaged.
This is also one of the classic symptoms in Mopar transmissions where the incorrect transmission fluid was used, probably Dexron-Mercon. All Dodge trucks and most Chrysler-built cars require ATF+3 (older vehicles) or ATF+4. Your's requires ATF+4.
Good luck and best regards,
Dusty
Of course, you could also have a weak of bad pump, bad seals, or rear clutch problems.
Best regards,
Dusty
Dusty
The overdrive problem can be solved by having a reputable transmission shop pull the overdrive unit and change out the two bearings in the unit.The whining noise is caused by pitting on the bearing races. If you drive the vehicle too long, you can freeze up the bearing and cause a full rebuild of the overdrive unit that costs in the range of $1200. Change out of the bearings, inspection, clean-up, and changing out the three sensors should be less than $600.
Hope this helped...in time.
I've changed the transmission fluid and filter, and have also changed the output speed sensor on the advice of some folks, but neither step resolved the problem. The fluid change did help a little, but it hasn't resolved the problem.
I did note during the fluid change there were some very small black particules suspended in the fluid as well as some very fine metal particles stuck to the magnet in the bottom of the transmission pan. I belive the fluid was last changed about 100k miles ago, so the fluid didn't seem too bad considering.
Any ideas on what might be causing this? I'm really hoping this is a simple fix so I can avoid a costly transmission service here...
Thanks,
Tim
At crank up when cold the transmission seems like it slips in 2nd and 3rd gears.
75% of the time I can turn off and on the OD and it will engaged into gear.
All this happens only when it is cold. When it the tranny warms up about 2 or 3
miles it shifts fine from there on out.
If anyone has eny ideas, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Sorry if this is a former question.
Thanks Chad
I'm not sure where to start, as I have had the truck to a couple mechanics already and they tell me to take it somewhere else because they aren't sure where to start to pinpoint the problem either. The problem is that I'm not sure the truck can make it to where I need to take it, and I can't really afford to have it towed plus get the repairs done. I have read several threads about Dakota tranny problems and can't really find the info I need.
The transmission linkage is loose, and has been for a while now, but the truck still ran fine. I just have to start it in neutral and shift first to second to drive on takeoff. But now as soon as I put it in first it starts sputtering and doesn't want to pull. Out on the road every now and then, it does pretty well once it gets to about 40 mph. But it runs smoother in first gear than in drive, still not good in any gear, but better in first. The truck idles fine in park or neutral.
Sorry for the long thread, but I just wanted to try to give all the necessary info. Any help, tips, or suggestions would be much appreciated. I am just trying to pinpoint the problem as best I can without unnecessarily spending money on parts or repairs which may not be needed. Thanks to all who can help.
BTW, the error codes I received were: P0743, P0753, P0132, P0748.
I have a 1995 Dodge Dakota Auto with 145,000 miles. I have gotten the tranny flushed ever 30,000 miles since I bought it with 32,000 miles. I recently, only in cold weather ~45-50 degrees have been having a hard time getting it to shift into 2nd and 3rd gear. I just had it flushed with no resolve. What should I do?
The Other day, I pulled into work and put the truck in park and went to reach over to get my gym bag and the truck took off in reverse almost hitting a car behind me. Scared sensless and thinking I had mistakenly put it in reverse I drove back to my spot and put the truck in park again. Took my foot off of the break and it again took off in reverse.
I pulled back forward, put the truck in park, shut it off and put the E brake on.
The indicator that shows what gear I'm in (P-R-N-D-2-1) is now off by a half a mark, ie. Neutral now shows as reverse, etc. The truck is still driveable right now but will not shift into Park. Any help would be appreciated. :confuse:
The Other day, I pulled into work and put the truck in park and went to reach over to get my gym bag and the truck took off in reverse almost hitting a car behind me. Scared sensless and thinking I had mistakenly put it in reverse I drove back to my spot and put the truck in park again. Took my foot off of the break and it again took off in reverse.
I pulled back forward, put the truck in park, shut it off and put the E brake on.
The indicator that shows what gear I'm in (P-R-N-D-2-1) is now off by a half a mark, ie. Neutral now shows as reverse, etc. The truck is still driveable right now but will not shift into Park. Any help would be appreciated.
Another possible cause could be the Throttle Position Sensor, especially in that high mileage of a vehicle.
Best regards,
Dusty
I have a friend who has a 1995 Dakota 5.2, 5sp that I can get REAL cheap. What I want to know is does this truck have everything I would need for a trans swap??? Or are the clutch/brake pedal assembly, slave cylinder/clutch master cyl set up, crossmember, mounts, and so on different
Or am I just better off getting another auto from the junkyard(though after reading all these posts and based on my own experiences im not sure I want another auto.
Any help and info would be appreciated.
Thanks
If your symptom is as described, the likely problem is severe loss of pump pressure. In my experience this is caused by a clogged Anti-Drain Back Valve, Transmission Filter, or clogged cooling lines. The problem is that insufficient fluid flow may have caused burned clutches or overdrive unit. However, there are other possible causes that may may not require a complete overhaul.
I will bet this vehicle's transmission was not properly maintained. Unfortunately, you are likely stuck with the problem now. I would have the transmission overhauled and rebuild by a reputable transmission technician that will ensure that all of the updates have been performed (there are a number of them). Once this is done and you change fluid and filters regularly per the scheduled service interval, you should be able to have a reliable transmission for at least 100,000 miles.
Regards,
Dusty
I bought another trans from a local yard(it was alot cheaper than an over haul, and im on a VERY strict budget) I also ordered a Transgo shift kit for it, which I hope as their site says will remedy the problems that cause trans failure. I will take care of this new trans like it is my son, I love my truck and it kills me to see it just sitting in my driveway.
Thanks again Dusty, after spending a night reading EVERY post in this section I was hoping you would be the one who responded to me.
One thing I'd like to add is the importance of flushing the cooling lines after a rebuilt or a swap. The way you describe the magnet, I am worried that the cooling lines are restricted. This is a VERY common problem, and not just on Mopars.
Best regards,
Dusty
The Shift Cable is binding or is badly out of adjustment. You could have a problem with the Transmission Range Sensor, but this is very rare and equally doubtful.
I suggest taking it to the dealer for repair.
Best regards,
Dusty
You can't use an "RH" to replace a "RE," and vice-versa.
Swaping transmissions from different years is not an approach I recommend, since there are often changes and differences (axle ratio, for example) that will have a bearing on transmission performance, reliability, and sometimes suitability.
Good luck,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
Some of the so-called "tune up" additives contain chemicals designed to loosen gum, varnish and debris deposits formed by loose clutch or other internal materials. There are two problems with these types of products.
One. They sometimes work! Yes, they can soften debris materials but then this material is circulating around in the system where it often moves on to other areas that were not previously affected. This can be acute in older, high mileage or poorly maintained transmission where there may be a lot of debris material built up over time. Softened debris will then be re-entered into the fluid flow as loose particles increasing component wear and cause blockage in another area or stop fluid flows altogether.
This can be especially acute in Chrysler transmissions because they all use a Anti-Drain Back Valve to prevent siphoning of the torque converter at cool-down. The anti-drainback valves used in most Chrysler automatics are susceptible to becoming clogged, the lone exception is the 545RFE which uses an internal anti-drainback valve and has a coolant return filter just in front of it.
If you have ever seen transmission cooling lines that were literally packed solid of debris you'd understand that just adding something to the fluid to "loosen things up" could have grave repercussions. In fact, in the transmission service and rebuilding industry system flushing is highly controversial for this very reason. There is a point when deposits inside the transmission are so great that the only correct way to ensure that the system is completely clean is to tear it down and bench clean.
Two. They de-stabilize ATF, especially ATF+. Chrysler's ATF+ series is a very specialized lubricant/hydraulic fluid. It contains a number of additives that lower the pour-point, raise the operating temperature (viscosity index), make the fluid resistant to moisture build-up, prevent foaming and oxidation, and most importantly...give the fluid a specific friction quality to match the design of the transmission clutches and other internal components to ensure design shift operation.
ATF+3 and ATF+4 are the easiest to de-stabilize because they are a much more complex fluid than Dexron or Type F. One quart of Dexron-Mercon will kill a Chrysler tranny in just a few thousand miles. Additives are even worse, in my opinion. When they are used you now have committed yourself to the complete removal of the additive to the transmission, which means you must flush the entire system at the very least.
My advice is if you think you need to put an additive in the transmission, what you really need is to have the transmission correctly diagnosed and serviced. Many times this will be less costly and time consuming.
Good luck and let us know how you make out.
Regards,
Dusty
Lee
This problem is usually the result of an out-of-adjustment Brake Transmission Shift Interlock (BTSI) mechanism that's located in the steering column, or a damaged or improperly lubricated shift cable that connects to it.
Remove the trim on the steering column and watch the movement as you move the gearshift lever. If the lever is moved but you see no corresponding movement in the cable, its a binding problem. Lubrication mat resolve the issue if it's not an adjustment or damaged shift cable problem. There's a special grease that must be used available from your Dodge dealer. Do not use axle or bearing grease.
There is a adjustment procedure, but I recommend having your dealer check this out. This is a common symptom on older or high mileage vehicles. It shouldn't take a tech. too long to fix this if there are no parts required.
Regards,
Dusty
First, can you please describe how you flushed this transmission?
Second, what fluid did you use when the flush was done? If you didn't use ATF+4 you may be in trouble!
Possibilities. You may not have flushed all of the water out of this system. In addition, if mud has gotten into the system a flush may not be adequate enough to remove all debris.
545RFEs compensate for clutch slippage over time by counting Clutch Volume Indexes (CVI) and internally adjusting clutch pressure. When the transmission was slipping, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may now believe there is so much slippage that the CVI has overshot. This may possibly be corrected by disconnecting the battery for one minute and allowing the PCM to reset.
Personally, I would recommend taking this to a Dodge dealer and having them diagnose the problem. These trannys are really tough and near bulletproof. Tear downs and rebuilds are extremely rare, and usually unnecessary.
Regards,
Dusty