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Dodge Dakota Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Well, I'm pretty sure that 1988 was the first year of the four-speed automatic in the Dakota. Whether this was a A518 or an A999 I'm not sure.

    I consulted some experts this morning and there was some discussion about this problem. The electronic governor was not adopted until the following year (1989), however a Dodge transmission tech. believes that lock-up was prevented by temperature on the four-speed RWD transmissions before the advent of the electronic governor.

    Look for a sensor in one of the transmission lines (it should be the return line). This would be mounted directly to the steel tubing and use two wires. I'm not certain about this, but my memory is probably the weakest of the two consulting technicians. (It's definitely the oldest!!!) I don't recall a sensor like this used in a Dodge application.

    If there is no temperature sensor in one of the transmission lines going to the radiator, collectively we are drawing a blank on this one. None of us can ever remember a condition like the one you are describing.

    I think lock-up was controller directly by the PCM in those days, which means it operated the lock-up solenoid. There is a temperature circuit in the older PCMs used for some emission related operations. Maybe that is where the problem. From a pure hydraulic standpoint, I don't have much to offer as far as suggestions except what I've already mentioned.

    Good luck,
    Dusty
  • 02flhtc02flhtc Member Posts: 3
    hey dusty tried the filters and relearn nothing changed dealer said underdrive ???
    so i've replaced trans with a used one and all works great except really hard 2/3 shift feels like someone hit you from behind any ideas ?
    thanks mike
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    There are a number of things that could cause this problem. If the 2-3 shift seems to get better the more you drive, it may just need to build a shift schedule by learning. This can be done more quickly performing the TCM Quick Learn procedure with a DRB3 Scan Tool. This would also give you an opportunity to scan for codes. I'd also recommend getting the TCM reflashed with the latest updates.

    Make sure the gearshift cable is adjusted poroperly.

    There could be a problem with either the Input Speed or Output Speed Sensors. As far as that goes, the old Throttle Position Sensor may cause this as well.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • mtndewdudemtndewdude Member Posts: 2
    Hello all!

    I have a 99 Dakota with a 3.9L Auto, 143K miles with original engine and transmission. The truck has had regular maintenance its entire life, no major problems so far. I had the transmission rebuilt a year ago at 130K. The engine runs great, and transmission runs great...

    ... except lately I don't have much of an Overdrive. When I say this, the truck shifts fine (normal) between 1st and 3rd, but is VERY reluctant to shift into overdrive. The only way I can get it to shift into 4th is to maintain about 40-45MPH and hold the gas as lightly as possible. But even then, as soon as I push the pedal to accelerate, it instantly drops back into 3rd. I was somewhat nervous about pushing speeds more than 50MPH, but can try if needed.

    It started doing this progressively more and more starting about 2 months ago, and has gotten to the point of which it won't hold in OD at all anymore. It doesn't seem to be temperature related, it does the same cold or hot. I didn't get any error code until 2 weeks ago. I took it to Autozone and he said it was (surprise) a shift error between 3rd and 4th.

    What would be the first thing to do to try to fix this? I am comfortable pulling the pan if needed. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks!

    -Derrick
  • jvinzantjvinzant Member Posts: 3
    I checked up and down for a sensor strapped to the trans lines. I could not see anything. It also don't help that the previous owner replaced the old rusted lines. There are short sections of remaining line left but no sensors. I have looked for tucked wires hoping maybe the sensor was removed and stuffed somwhere, no luck.

    We did have upper 50's lower 60's here last Friday and the overdrive was working at least 50% of the time. I at least know the overdrive works but sure would like to know how to keep it working. I have a Clymer manual for the truck but it does not have specific wiring diagrams. It does show a temp sensor in the layout of the harness but no details about it. I called the local Dodge dealer and he stated the sensor in need is a discontinued part.

    The local boneyard has nothing of that vintage either. I am hoping that somebody has a wiring diagram that shows the color of the wire/wires for the sensor. I also did the key on, key off code check and came up with a 15, speed sensor. That is an $80 part at the parts store that might not be the total fix of the problem. I sure would like to know more about the temp sensor if possible first. Thanks for the info.
  • jvinzantjvinzant Member Posts: 3
    Just to add the truck was manufactured on 5/88. Would it be possible that the truck has the 1989 version of the electronic governer? And if it does will it need the in line temp sensor? Thanks,
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Hi Derrick,

    The following items can cause or contribute to this problem:

    *Engine not coming to operating temperature (bad thermostat)

    *Throttle Valve cable misadjusted, sticking, or binding (A common problem on older, high mileage transmissions)

    *Defective Throttle Position Sensor (common source for a whole bunch of problems)

    *Defective Reear Wheel Speed Sensor

    *Weak, defective, or intermittent Overdrive Solenoid

    *Dirty or worn valve body. Sticking O/D Check Valve, clogged Overdrive Clutch Bleed Orifice.

    *Low hydraulic pressure (leaky seals, defective Governor Pressure Sensor or Governor Pressure Solenoid)

    *Worn Overdrive Clutches

    Did your rebuilder gave you an itemized list of parts they replaced? Did he replace any clutches? Unfortunately, at 130K miles I probably would've replaced the valve body assembly unless everything looked very, very good. These are often found to have worn or scratched valve bores once they get over 100,000 miles.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Try the speed sensor. The PCM does depend on this signal for engine and transmission control functions.

    Dusty
  • mtndewdudemtndewdude Member Posts: 2
    Sorry it has taken me so long to post, I've been very busy with work.

    I believe that the engine temp is normal, the thermostat was replaced about the time the tranny was rebuilt. It warms up to about 190 and doesn't move from there, regardless of load.

    Not sure about the throttle valve cable, TPS or solenoid, will try those next if needed.

    I replaced the speed sensor (it was the one on the under side of the tranny, two wires, about $18) and disconnected the battery for about 5 min. I test drove it and took it up to 75mph, and everything seemed to be in good working order. The shift happened when it was supposed to, but had almost an intermitent stage. As soon as it shifted out of 3rd, it dropped slightly in RPM, but didn't seem like it was totally in OD (torque converter?). After I let off of the gas, it dropped in RPM again and was definately in 4th. I don't remember it doing this before this whole problem, but maybe it was supposed to?

    By the way, I called the transmission tech. He pulled up my bill and said he remembered working on my truck (gave an accurate description, so I believed him). He said he did a standard rebuild, replaced the clutches, and disassembled the valve body. He didn't see any scratches/grooves in the walls and said he cleaned it all very well.

    So the dirty valve body, sticking valve, and low pressure are unknown at this point.

    Dusty, thank you very much for all of your help. I try my best to fix something myself and it can be VERY difficult to find someone to answer [what seem to be] simple questions. Your help is much appreciated.

    Derrick
  • rresarresa Member Posts: 4
    Dusty,

    Just following up with the issues that I experienced with my transmission. After replacing the TPS and getting the trans fluid flushed, the erratic shifting issues are no longer an issue and the fuel economy has improved dramatically.

    Thanks for the tip on replacing the TPS as it took car of not only the tranmission shifting issues, but corrected the erratic idle issues as well. It was $29.99 at Autozone with a 2 year warranty and takes on minutes to replace.

    Regards,

    Rich R.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    My pleasure, sir. Hope the resolution isn't too expensive.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Glad to hear you had good success. Punky Throttle Position Sensors aren't the problem they use to be, but the 2001s and 2002s seem to have higher replacement rates.Defective TPSs can really drive a 545RFE a crazy.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • glenn973glenn973 Member Posts: 6
    I posted this about 1 1/2 years ago and no one had an answer, hopefully someone may be able to provide some insight now :)

    I have a 2002 Dakota Quad 4x4 8cyl 5.9 w/ 86,000miles now 105,000
    Recently when coming to a stop the transmission will either fail to shift from 2nd to 1st or will downshift to 1st but jump back up to 2nd after I come to a complete stop.
    After sitting for a minute it will sometimes shift to 1st ok, other times it doesn't and I have to manually shift it to 1st.(no problems with manual shifting) sometimes it now does not shift until i start to move again, even with trying to force it to 1st

    This is a rather intermittent problem, sometimes it will act up for the whole day, sometimes I can go for 5+ daysor months and not have any incident.

    I took it to a local shop, they ran tests, and pulled the pan. Tests came up clean. They claim the pan had some metal flakes in it. I unfortunately was not there to verify it. They want to rebuild it for about $2000.

    I am going to take to somewhere else for a 2nd opinion as I think having to rebuild a tranny at 86,000miles is absolutely nuts. However I wouldn't be totally surprised as there has not been much done in the way of maintenance. never did get the 2nd opinion

    Could this just be a case of neglect on my part and I just need to pony up for the rebuild or is there hope for a less expense answer?

    Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

    -Glenn
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Glenn,

    Before making assumptions or declaring a rebuild on this transmission, there are a number of things that should be checked before ripping it out of the vehicle.

    First, we need some vehicle history. What kind of transmission maintenance have you performed? Have you replaced any engine or transmission parts? What actions, if any, have you taken to troubleshoot the problem?

    You say this is going in to Limp mode. How do you know?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • jt8manjt8man Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2001 dakota r/t it also had tranny problems, not getting into 2nd gear somtimes under load. Took to shop and dropped pan...the tech wiggled some levers and found one of the bands loose / broken, got it rebuilt / and shift kit for $1,500. Works like a champ now...
  • glenn973glenn973 Member Posts: 6
    Hey Dusty,

    Thank you for your reply.

    Maintenance: Honestly, very little maintenance has been performed to the transmission itself aside from monitoring fluid levels. It has been serviced once(when I took it to the transmission shop to investigate the problem).
    I have not replaced any transmission parts, there was as issue with acceleration/jerking that sounds alot like the TPS issue I've read so much about, the dealership fixed that quickly. As for the engine, within the first year there was some issue that caused the dealership to replace the heads and I recently replaced the water pump & belts. Other than that it's been pretty trouble free.

    Troubleshooting: I have taken it to both a local transmission shop and the dealership, niether one was able to pinpoint the issue(nor were they able to get it to act up while it was in there possesion) Basically, they both said to drive it until it gets worse or just get the rebuild...

    I say limp mode because that is what the dealership said I was describing(if i remember correctly)
    The transmission shop said that it most likely was metal flakes floating around getting attracted to a magnatized silinoid(or something like that), causing the gears to get stuck. They said they could just replace the electronics, but weren't confident that would solve the issue...

    Let me know if there is anything else I can answer, i really do appriciate you taking the time to help me troubleshoot this issue.

    -Glenn
  • dervin1dervin1 Member Posts: 9
    What kind of tranny do I have, 1998 Dodge Dakota 3.9V6, auto Sport ex cab, 2WD? I need to change the transmission filter and oil, what kind of kit do I need?
    Thanks,
    Dave
  • ebtrrebtrr Member Posts: 6
    Thanks fuzzy. I've hardly been driving the truck but it is still making the noise when I do. Would still like to get it fixed sometime. A couple questions

    Is $600 for repair in the vehicle, the shop pulling the tranny for repairs, or for repairs on a tranny that you pulled yourself? Do you have any advice on finding a reputable transmission shop? I finally have an auto repair place I trust but have never had tranny work done there and I don't think I trust the national brands like AAMCO and the like. Have you pulled a tranny from a Dakota and if so how involved is it?

    Thanks so mucn for your help!
  • ebtrrebtrr Member Posts: 6
    I have a 98 5.2 4x4 V8. I always take it in to have it done because they hook up a machine to the tranny coolant lines that flushes out ALL the fluid out and fresh fluid in. If you just drain it or drop the pan and change the filter you only get a fraction of the fluid changed, less than half. It is pricey to do it that way (~$100) but worth it. Quick lube places will do it but will not do the filter (Valvoline at least.) Any reasonable shop should be able to do it with the filter.
  • ebtrrebtrr Member Posts: 6
    Quite a while ago I paid the dealer plenty to change the seal between the tranny and the transfer case. I realized much later (after the work warranty had expired) that teh 4WD indicator light no longer worked when the truck was in 4WD. I think it started when they worked on it bu can't be sure. I am not paying them to fix it and will let it go rather than pay to have it fixed. I got under the truck and looked over the transfer case thoroughly and could not find any electrical connectors loose or disconnected. Any idea where this sensor is or what else could cause this? Thanks!
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Glenn,

    You have a 46RE transmission.

    The first thing I would check is the operation of the Throttle Valve Cable, the throttle linkage at the engine Throttlebody, and the pivot at the transmission. If this cable or the pivot is sticking it can cause this type of problem. There is an adjustment required at the Throttlebody end of the cable (where it attaches to the linkage) that is critical.

    I've never opened up a transmission that didn't have some "metal flakes" in the fluid or in the pan. In my opinion, a few is normal. If you had the equivalent of a tablespoon, I'd be a little more worried. At this point I'd be more concerned about how much lost friction material was in the system. This is the stuff that will get past the filter and clog passages in the valve body or pile up in a servo piston bore.

    Other possibilities:

    *Transmission filter clogged or restricted fluid flow due to clogged cooling lines.

    *Gearshift linkage or cable binding or misadjusted

    *Defective Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).

    *Electronic Governor circuit problem. Check for signs of moisture or corrosion in the transmission electrical connectors.

    *Defective Electronic Governor Solenoid or Sensor.

    *Dirty Transmission Valve Body. A sticking/binding 1-2 shift Valve, Governor Plug, or Throttle Valve in the Valve Body.

    *Front Band loose, worn, or misadjusted. Front Servo piston binding.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Well, you either have a A500, or 30RH/31RH/32RH, or 42RE.

    In either case the transmission pan gasket is the same for all of these versions.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dge330dge330 Member Posts: 10
    Dusty have a ? for you.was gonna pull trans to put in a new trq converter and as i was removing all the plugs from trans,electrical that is.the one on the side was dripping trans fluid form it and the plug was saturated with fluid.previously i told you i had a ploblem with the converter satying locked up at all times.do you think it is possible this is shortnig out inside this and causing the converter to stay locked up?it is the box on the drivers side it is the one that sends P R N BACK TO PCM
    any thoughts on this?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    No.

    The item you are describing is the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS). The TRS is actuated by the Manual Valve Lever inside the transmission and reacts to different positions of that lever depending on the position of the vehicle's gearshift.

    On RE & RH series, the TRS only provides three functions, none of which involve the PCM:

    *Supplies power to the Park/Neutral starting circuit

    *Switches/supplies power to the reverse lamps

    * Supplies electrical signals to illuminate the gear range indicator lamps on the instrument cluster

    On RFE series only, the TRS also contains the transmission temperature sensor.

    Of course there should be no ATF leaking from the TRS or around the gasket that's mounted on the TRS. Common problem on GMs, but don't see that very often on Mopars. You can have a leak at the bracket that the TRS mounts to, but you need a special adaptor tool to remove it.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • glenn973glenn973 Member Posts: 6
    Hey Dusty,

    Thank you for all of the info! It looks like I have some work ahead of me.(and a bit of studying on how to check/fix all those things)

    At the moment, the truck is performing like champ. I guess I'll wait until it acts up again and start at the top of the list.

    Thanks again for all your help,

    -Glenn
  • slade25slade25 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    PO783 code comes up intermittently for some time now. I can erase it on the OBD II, it will go for a while but come back (not a surprise I suppose). I had the transmission in for a fluid change out a couple months back - it was inspected and got a general cleaning. Told the guys I had an occasional 783 fault, murphy's law - it wasn't there that day. Anyway, they noted it but couldn't see any issues at the time. The 3-4 solenoid is a possible problem. Has anyone run across anything like this and am I in the tracks for a big tranny job if I don't so something soon ? The vehicle has 92,000 miles, in great shape, drives well and I'd like to keep it.

    Steve
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The P0783 is a 3-4 Shift Malfunction, which by itself doesn't tell us much. Possibilities:

    *Overdrive switch circuit malfunction. Intermittent switch or bad connection in overdrive electrical circuit.

    *Coolant temperature sensor defective.

    *Throttle Position Sensor irratic/intermittent

    *Rear Wheel Speed Sensor defective.

    *Low hydraulic pressure: clogged filter or cooling lines. Intermittent governor operation.

    *Overdrive Solenoid weak or intermittent connection/short in circuit.

    *Sticking/binding 3-4 Shift Valve in valve body. Valve body dirty.

    *Overdrive Piston sticking, leaky piston seal.

    *Overdrive Clutch worn or is close to failure

    *PCM problem or bad connections to PCM

    Remove the electrical connectors to the transmission and check for signs of moisture, corrosion, or bent terminals. Check the electrical ground path from the transmission to the body. There should be less tha 0.5 ohms of DC resistance.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • billythekid21billythekid21 Member Posts: 2
    I am experiencing a loud rattling noise at the front of the transmission when in park, reverse, neutral, or drive. Also, when trying to drive the truck I have to really step on the gas and rush the motor to start the wheels moving. Once moving, the truck slips in and out of gear with me. Any ideas?

    Thanks
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Is this vehicle a Dakota? What year, what engine do you have and how many miles on the vehicle?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • billythekid21billythekid21 Member Posts: 2
    Yes, this is a 1989 4x4 Dodge Dakota with a 3.9L V6 engine. It current has 202,000 miles. I bought the truck with 187,000 miles on it.

    Thanks
  • travelintoolbxtravelintoolbx Member Posts: 2
  • travelintoolbxtravelintoolbx Member Posts: 2
    I have a 97 5.2l 4sp auto. This is the second time the tranny. has gone out. What other options do I have for swapping out this transmission? Maybe from a durango, or Ram, or even a R/T. Surely the R/T transmissions would be stronger.. Any help would be greatly appreciated..
  • dge330dge330 Member Posts: 10
    Dusty i put the new tq conv.in and walla works .got a new chrysler converter and all is well.still hard on fuel but new motor and hoping it will ease when motor breaks in.thanks for the help
  • dakotalukedakotaluke Member Posts: 1
    I need someone's help! My 2006 Dakota Quad Cab is starting to not shift out of park when I want to leave. At first I thought it was my floor mat getting stuck up by my pedal because I would move it and then it would shift. But, now that doesn't work. This morning I was stuck at a gas station until I could get it to work. It varies everyday, one day it will do it, the next day it won't. Can anyone help me??? Is there a "CHEAP" fix to this?
  • outdoorguy1971outdoorguy1971 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Dakota 4 door that has recently started doing something similar, although not badly enough to strand me. It started being sluggish going into reverse a couple weeks ago, taking a couple seconds to "go". After being parked for a couple weeks while I was away on business, it gave the same trouble today going into drive after it was driven earlier in the day. It has 39000 original miles on it. So I am not sure what is up. Anyone have any advice?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Well, this is where my memory starts to fail me, and Chrysler started changing their transmission nomenclature, but in 1997 I think the 45RE was used behind two-wheel Dakota versions of the 318 (could have been 30THs also, or what use to be the A904, then A500). In that case the 360 always got the 46RE, I'm pretty sure. The 46RE has heavier gear train architecture, one more set of clutches and one more set of pinions in the planetary gearsets, if by that you mean "stronger."

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dge330dge330 Member Posts: 10
    dusty i have a new prob.it is throwing a 203 code .any info would be greatly apreciated thanks
  • gene_cgene_c Member Posts: 2
    Hi folks!

    My first post here. So bear with me.
    I just bought a used 1999 Dakota 4x4 5.2L 4speed OD tranny.
    Everything works fine, but there is (I'll try to describe it as best I can). A slipping or surge feeling(engine revs pick up). I think it happpens with the 2-3 shift, but its about 2-3 seconds AFTER the 1-2 shift. It only happens after a dead stop, never after downshifting while driving around... Only after a complete stop and every time.. The truck has 147K miles, and is in generally very good shape, and well cared for. The trans fluid is full.
    The truck had been sitting unused for about two months.. I have only driven it a little... The guy who sold it to me is a mechanic, and a pretty good one, but no auto trans expert... He thinks its because it was sitting for a couple of months, and wants me to just drive it a few days to see if it changes.. He then suggests he change the fluid, and filter... He is very accomodating at helping me fix this, but is short of ideas..
    Can you suggest anything I can tell him to try? :confuse:

    Thanks Much
    Gene C
  • gene_cgene_c Member Posts: 2
    I am just learning how to use this forum. And decided after reading a bit to use the SEARCH function.... I did learn some..

    I think what I have been trying to describe in my earlier post was a "FLAIR"? in the 2-3 shift? Am I correct in that it is a Flair?

    It seems that my mechanic friends recommendation of a fluid and filter change is a first right step.. (I will be sure to tell him to use ATF+3 not the Dexron-Mercon stuff that seems "evil". :)

    Also he should check the TPS?
    Also (as Dusty suggested in another post)
    QUOTE: A number of things can cause a 2-3 flair on a 42RE,
    burnt clutches,
    sticky servo,
    bands out-of-adjustment,
    clogged valve body,
    TPS (Throttle Positioning Sensor)
    or sticking shift solenoids, just to name a few.

    I do not know if my trans is the 42RE mine is a 99 4x4 5.2L?

    Am I on the right track.?
    Any other things to check?

    Thanks
    Gene
  • 88dakota88dakota Member Posts: 1
    I have an 88 dakota 4wd the transmison slips and comes out of gear should i try a repair kit first or a new tranny. And will a 2wd transmison work with 4 wd
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Sorry for the late response. Computer problems here.

    P0203 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 3

    Are you feeling an engine roughness or what feels like a cylinder dropping out? Fuel consumption higher? If so, could be the injector at cylinder three. If you're not noticing anything, check for a bad connections at the injector and the PCM (intermittent).

    Regards,
    Dusty
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    On six cylinder motors the transmissions are the same between 2wd and 4wd. On some V8s, the 2wd drive transmissions are 45RHs, and the 4wds are 46RHs.

    If you feel comfortable tackling a rebuild yourself, I wouldn't talk you out of it. Since this is your vehicle the motivation is higher to do a quality job...usually. If you're the impatient type or not fussy, I'd advise against. If you lack the proper tools or knowlege, I'd advise against. If you are particular and like to perform extra clean reassembly, go for it.

    Inspect components carefully and replace suspected parts, even those that don't come it the kit. Use a good quality kit. I have found the factory kits are better quality. I'd advise strongly to avoid the off-shore rebuilding kits.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The following list of symptoms associated with defective Throttle Position Sensors (TPS) on Dodge trucks are a compilation of actual field experiences, both observed and reported:

    off-idle hesitation
    hesitation at speed
    rough engine idle
    intermittent rough engine idle
    rough idle then stalls
    engine RPM fluctuates at idle
    engine RPM flairs after start, then stalls
    engine stalls when placed into any gear
    engine stalls after start unless throttle pedal used
    engine stalls when throttle opened
    engine surges at speed
    engine performance poor: engine misfires under load/acelleration

    irratic shifts
    irratic torque converter unlocking
    irratic or over sensitive 6-5 downshifts at speed (68RFE)
    irratic or over sensitive 5-4 downshifts at speed (545RFE)
    irratic or over sensitive 4-3 downshifts at speed (RE, RLE)
    3-4 driveline clunk
    delayed 1-2 shift
    delayed 3-4 upshift
    3-4 upshifts occurs abruptly after 2-3 shift
    no 3-4 upshift
    no 4-3 downshift
    no kickdown at speed
    no or irratic torque converter lock up
    no or irratic overdrive shift

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • hbackhback Member Posts: 1
    I recently received a 1990 dakota ext cab. It has over 100000 mile on it, with an automatic transmission. The engine has been replace. My question is for a while now, when it is shifted into reverse it doesn't move, however once you get it rolling the reverse will kick in. I would really like to know what could be the cause of this as it was my late fathers truck. I know that my father was working on it, but only have limited information on what all he has done. I know that he has replace the filter, and tightened the bands on the tranny. If anyone has any suggestion on how to fix it please let me know. Thanks

    Brian Hornback
  • hughie1hughie1 Member Posts: 1
    new here kcram--help. put truck in gear w/ foot brake on stalls. any gear. had rear wheels up, put it in gear , wheels turn, accelerates...step on brake will decelerate a little before she stalls very hard. truck on ground puy in gear about 1500 rpm moves alittle before very hard stall. throttle linkage and gear selector seem ok. i can floor it in neutral --ok. one thing very strange--oil pressure gauge goes as high as gauge can go. oil new--filter new--level ok. changed tranx oil --level ok. new filter too. realized threw air pump belt when this came up. replaced pump[frozen]. that oil pressure is xtreme high in neutral or park. 1991 v-6, 3.9, 2wd w/ new smec . please fell free to tell me i'm crazy to fix a truck w/ 253,000 miles but i,m in love. thanks hugh
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    It would be better to know which engine this vehicle had, past maintenance & repair history, and any other symptoms.

    You could be experiencing low hydraulic pressure, either due to clogged cooling lines or tank, or perhaps a defective govenor pressure regulator or clogged /dirty valve body.

    If everything else is normal and the only problem is reverse, the problem could be the following:

    *inoperative or worn front clutch

    *Rear band misadjusted

    *Worn or broken overdrive thrust bearing

    *Broken direct clutch spring

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I think you've got more than one completely unrelated problems going on and we need a little more information.

    Was the oil pressure alright before you changed the engine oil filter? Did this problem occur suddenly?

    Judging from your symptom description, it sounds like the transmission is locked up and may be caused by the following:

    *Incorrect transmission filter or installed incorrectly

    *Clutches dragging or broken

    *Stuck servo or valvebody problem

    *Defective overrunning cluch

    *Broken planetary gearset

    *Locked torque converter clutch

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I think you've got more than one completely unrelated problems going on and we need a little more information.

    Was the oil pressure alright before you changed the engine oil filter? Did this problem occur suddenly?

    Judging from your symptom description, it sounds like the transmission is locked up and may be caused by the following:

    *Incorrect transmission filter or installed incorrectly

    *Clutches dragging or broken

    *Stuck servo or valvebody problem

    *Defective overrunning cluch

    *Broken planetary gearset

    *Locked torque converter clutch

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • lgarner1lgarner1 Member Posts: 1
    Where can I find a valve body breakdown or illustration? Transmission has got some issues and I think it might be something to do with the valve body. Can anyone help???-Lisa
  • llovellove Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2001 Dodge Dakota. I've driven it has 86000 miles on it. The transmission light just came on. The truck is running fine and it has plenty of fluid. Any guesses as what could be wrong with my truck? Should I continue to drive my truck with the light on? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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