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I just got this truck about a month ago maybe put 400 miles on it tops!
I got a 3 month 4500 mile C.A.R.S. warranty from the used car dealer with the purchase of my truck, but im not sure how the cars warranty works... any suggestions?
once it shifts it is fine for all other gears no issues. Shifts to R, P and N fine. Any thoughts?
Thanks
I have an '05 Dakota 2WD - 4.7L. When I am braking i get a pulsation as if I am gently pumping the brakes. There is no sensation in the brake pedal but feels like a brake problem. I have changed the front rotors and the pulsation is still there. Could it be the rear drums even though there is no pulsation in the pedal?
Also I have a delay in shifting from park to any gear . I have to wait about 20 seconds until it decides it wants to go into gear. I have only noticed this since the cooler weather has set in (Sept or so).
Any thoughts?
:confuse:
I have a 2001 Dodge dakota sport V8 automatic. About a year ago I was on a road trip and and while i was doing 120km down the highway It stated reving up to 3000-4000 RPM and it would slow down from 120km/hr to 80km/hr while going up a hill and the engine ligth came on. When I got it back home it just went away and I haven't had a problem for a whole year. Till now! It started doing it again but now seems it's having issues with coming in and out of second gear.When I reach 60-80km/hr it revs up to about 2500-3000RPM and it's jerky like it's shifting hard. But when I'am going faster(100-120km/hr) It's fine. What can be the issue. Is my transmission going on me?
Any ideas?
I own a 2000 dodge dakota with about 140,000 miles on the engine. About 6 months ago I started having problems with the vehicle while driving on the higway. I will be going 75-80 mph and the rps will just start to rev up to between 2500 and 3000 and it will not go back to normal on its own. I have found that the only way to get the rmp to go down is to put the truck in neutral, while going 75-80, and coasting down to about 40 where I can shift back into gear. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this and how do fix it? Any help would be greatly appriciated. Thanks.
The dealer would never have used anything but ATF+4 - if an independent shop used the wrong fluid in your car, you may have a small claims case to have them pay for the repairs.
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
thank you for your time!
off-idle hesitation
hesitation at speed
rough engine idle
intermittent rough engine idle
rough idle then stalls
engine RPM fluctuates at idle
engine RPM flairs after start, then stalls
engine stalls when placed into any gear
engine stalls after start unless throttle pedal used
engine stalls when throttle opened
engine surges at speed
engine performance poor: engine misfires under load/acelleration
irratic shifts
irratic torque converter unlocking
irratic or over sensitive 6-5 downshifts at speed (68RFE)
irratic or over sensitive 5-4 downshifts at speed (545RFE)
irratic or over sensitive 4-3 downshifts at speed (RE, RLE)
3-4 driveline clunk
delayed 1-2 shift
delayed 3-4 upshift
3-4 upshifts occurs abrubtly after 2-3 shift
no 3-4 upshift
no 4-3 downshift
no kickdown at speed
no or irratic torque converter lock up
no or irratic overdrive shift
I plan to change the fluid and filter, then take truck to AutoZone to have the code(s) read. I don't want to chance doing more damage to the trans by driving truck without a good filter and fresh fluid. The check engine light is on. If the converter is damaged/worn or the pump is worn, at least I can eliminate the possibility of the problem being just a clogged filter. On the other hand, if the trans is good and converter is good, and just dirty/overdue for a filter/fluid change, then the change will help clean out the trans. If the trans pan is gunky, but no appreciable metal, I'll just change the fluid again after a month or so. If the codes turn up a trans problem, I'll deal with that at that second change. Does this sound like a good plan?
That doesn't sound good.
BUT... the lock up is still gone. I'm guessing it is either a PCM issue (I'm going to do the reset), or the TV cable or TPS.
If I get the PCM codes read, will the reader reset the PCM and the check engine light?