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Dodge Dakota Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • sparky153sparky153 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, mkfarnam, all the mechical parts are in place, I thought there was an electrical problem somewhere ??
  • yahoodyyahoody Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Dakota 4x4, 4.7L V8, 8.25 rear end, 132K mileage. I had a "rrrr" sound that seemed to be at the speed of the differential, or wheels. I had the dealer check it out, they said all OK. I then took it to my tire dealer, they found considerable play in the rear axle. Back to the dealership, they agreed the differential was the problem, they replaced the entire rear end, including the case. It took three shipments before the the dealership was satisfied it was the correct differential. The replacement was covered under vehicle maintenance plan. I also had the U-joints replaced, as there was some play in them.

    The noise persists. It is most noticeable when driving up the curvey, steep hill to my house, and when my wheels are turning to the left. I could live with it if I knew it wasn't parts wearing away.
    I'd appreciate any advice on how to troubleshoot this problem.
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Wheel bearings? If worn, they could make different sound depending on whether the truck is going straight or in a turn as the load on them changes.
  • aquaerikaquaerik Member Posts: 1
    I have the same truck and have heard the noise you speak of for the last 5 years, I have had tires, wheel bearing replaced, tie rods, and nothing has caused the problem to go away. All of the work I had done was needed but it still never stopped making the "rrrrrr" noise when I turn left. Any solutions you find would be appreciated.
  • mkfarnammkfarnam Member Posts: 6
    edited December 2011
    From what I'm hearing here about slipping only when making a left turn, It's sounds as if it could be related to the noise I heard only on a right turn.
    I have a "93" Dodge Dakota, 4x4, 5 sp Tran, For some time I was heard this pounding noise( sometimes light some heavy) The sound was heard mostly during a right turn.
    skip..
    You all need to check for loose, worn or damage Trans, mounts or/and mounting bracket.
    Due to worn mounts and broken bracket bolts
    My Trans,ad shifted over causing the U=Joints to make the noise.
  • yahoodyyahoody Member Posts: 2
    I appreciate the responses to the noise issue. Here is an update:

    My tire/wheel dealership (Les Schwab) road tested the vehicle, they actually had a guy ride in the bed with the canopy on, they rode up the (steep) hill that leads to my house. He said he could definitely hear the noise coming from the right rear. I took those findings to the Dodge dealership that replaced the rear end (including housing, axles, wheel bearings). They didn't want to deal with the issue any more, used petty reasons ("we never got paid by the maintenance contract company for all the work we did," "it must not be a bad problem if it only does it when going up the hill to your house," "you should take the truck back to {the dealer you purchased it from]."

    I purchased the Dakota "as is" with no warranty, the [repair] dealership knows that. I only know once the repair dealer replaced the rear end, I have to deal with him, or I'm not going to get any followup results. The service contractor supplied the original rear end, so I can't see involving him any more. And, I'd have trouble getting another repair facility to get involved. It's not my fault if the dealer wasn't fully paid for their rear end work, and they shouldn't try to use that as fodder for failing to check out the repair work they did less than six months ago. I recall asking the service manager if they were reimbursed for their work, and he told me they were, so go figure.

    I managed to get the dealer to agree to test drive the vehicle in early January. I know I have to use diplomacy if I hope to get them to check the vehicle out again. I haven't had to go over the head of the service department so far, and I'm willing to negotiate the cost of any additional repairs (I did take some time to report the continuing problem) IF THEY CAN JUST FIX THE NOISE!
    To be continued... :cry::cry::cry: whine
  • dakotabraddakotabrad Member Posts: 1
    My problem is, acually I have 2, when starting my truck it wants to start hard but if I turn it over a couple of time shut it off and restart it's fine, idles rough for a minute but smoothes out, my second problem is when getting on the HWY, it seems like it's not going into that last gear, like a 5th gear or hwy gear, seems like it's stuck in 4th, but on city streets it's fine. It's a 4.7 rearwheel drive w/ 150,000 miles, I have changed the TPS, and the Crankshaft position sensor awhile back for other problems, and that worked for those problems but now I have these to deal with, I have had the Battery checked so that's not the problem, and changed plugs, oil, and air filter, during the summer. I feel like it's another sensor but I don't want to take it to a garage and get raped for a 30.00 dollar sensor. If anyone has an idea as to what might be wrong Please help!!!
  • mkfarnammkfarnam Member Posts: 6
    What weight of oil are you using?
  • johnmcljohnmcl Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 dakota and I have problem with it not wanting to come out of park. It feels locked up and shifter wont move. I pulled the truck backwards the other morning and it unlocked then but wont now. I do not know what the problem is.. I was also told it might be a electric switch locking it in park. Any ideas and where is this switch located? Thanks John
    Sorry this is a 2 wheel drive truck
  • bethann1bethann1 Member Posts: 3
    Could be the prindle switch p-r-n-d not shure where it's at though.
  • dodgemaniacdodgemaniac Member Posts: 2
    Ok heres. My deal i have a 97dodge dakota 318the auto 4x4. And recently it snowed and i put my truck in 4x4good and well after wards my truck wouldnt move so i fooled with it for a while and finaly it drove but recently my truck while in drive only when completly stoped the i go again the whole truck shakes and shudders the stops and drives fine only happens when stop completly and go again please help me....
  • dodgemaniacdodgemaniac Member Posts: 2
    I was told it could u joints or my low gear is going out idk
  • tuffoldmantuffoldman Member Posts: 2
    DODGE CAN KISS MY A--, THEY WILL NOT HONOR MY WARRANTY SINCE I BOUGHT MY TRUCK IN FEB.NOT JUL 07, DODGE WILL NOT WARRANT MY TRANSMISSION. WELL I WILL NEVER BY ANOTHER DODGE OR CHRYLER PRODUCT AND WILL TRY AND INFORM CONSUMERS NOT TO BY THEIR PRODUCTS.
  • tuffoldmantuffoldman Member Posts: 2
  • bk007bk007 Member Posts: 1
    Hey tim any luck whit this issue, my truck have the same problems
  • bill360bill360 Member Posts: 1
    Dan Did you find out a solution to your Dakota noise problem? I have the exact same problem. I would appreciate some help with this. Thanks Bill360
  • tim684tim684 Member Posts: 2
    yes i was able to fix the shifting problem by changing out the shift selenoid pack cost was a little over $100.00 for the pack. it mounts on the valve body so you have to loosen that and drop it. it was messy but saved a ton of money
  • virus360virus360 Member Posts: 1
    have you checked your transmission oil.... even though it may look nice and new... or not burnt... your filter may still be clogged... a transmission filter will run you under 30 dollars... and may clear that up for you.. its not hard to do ... (if you have 46re transmission...they did have a lot of problems...the filter fixed mine)
  • wranglerswranglers Member Posts: 2
    I've got a 95 dakota v8 automatic 4wd that I just got and the torque converter doesn't seem to want to lock up for the last gear so rpms sit at 3000 for 60 mph. anyone with ideas as to the problem? It had some seals done on the transfer and wasn't driven in a few years except by previous owners daughter when she needed it. It is my only mode of transportation, so I'm hoping quick fix, but I can't find anything unplugged and i don't have codes and a reader won't work for some reason.
  • 5158joey5158joey Member Posts: 2
    had a problem with my 4 wheel drive when engaged,,i hear a clunking noise..when i check my drive shaft,, pilot bearing was worn,, anybody who has the same problem?
  • 5158joey5158joey Member Posts: 2
    had a problem with my 4 wheel drive when engaged,,i hear a clunking noise..when i check my drive shaft,, pilot bearing was worn,, anybody who has the same problem?
  • easyasin123easyasin123 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 dodge dakota... my rpm's were jumping like that as well... I got it checked out.. and it was the shifting part that needed to be replaced.. the part cost like 150.00... give or take... I thought it was my transmission goin... I got so scared.. i felt sick sitting the the waiting chair.. but when he said 150.00 or whatever it was.. i could of gave him a KISS... lol ... hope u got it fixed by now... good luck "may dodge live on"
  • jboyd20jboyd20 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Dakota base model, 4x4, V6, automatic transmission. When it's in cruise control the cruise will kick in and out like its being cut off and then cut back on real quick. I just had the clock spring replaced because it was bad and the pcm flashed and it still does it. It shoots no codes or lights or anything. The dealer said they couldn't fix it because there wasn't a code and they didn't want to mess with it. I'm at my wits end as to what it can be. I'm tired of driving along and the truck have a stall like I'm cutting cruise on and off. It's to the point were it'll even make your head rock back and forth. Do you think the tcm is bad or should I get it flashed or what? Has anyone else had this problem? Any help will be appreciated.
  • merna123merna123 Member Posts: 2
  • merna123merna123 Member Posts: 2
    Does someone know the transmission fluid capacity of a '99 Dakota, 5.2, 4x4? I need to replace the pan and am wondering how much is in there.
  • tjames1984tjames1984 Member Posts: 6
    I've been working on my buddy's 94 Dakota for a week now...His transmission went out about 40 miles from home and we towed back to my driveway and garage and set about to replace the transmission. Neither of us are mechanics, but I know my way around a Chilton book and toolbox.
    We (finally) replaced the transmission, flushed the lines out, and got everything hooked back up- at first, we had all gears working, but then a few minutes into the "test-run" down the street- all we have is 4-Low on the transfer case...so- rather than risk chewing up another transmission- it's back in my driveway...

    About the truck-
    '94 Dakota 4x4 with the 318 (or 5.2L) throttle-body fuel-injected engine
    Automatic transmission (apparently the only transmissions that fit in this truck are the 94-95 year transmissions.

    The previous owner obviously didnt maintain the vehicle to standard because there was about an inch of nastiness in the tranny-pan when we changed the fluid & filter two weeks before the transmission totally went out.
    There was some grinding noises when driving and shifting when he pulled into the driveway- first thing I did was drop the tranny-pan- sure enough black fluid, disgusting filter, and about an inch of sludge in the tranny-pan...got a new filter, new fluid, cleaned out the old nastiness, installed the new- grinding was gone- truck ran fine. Two weeks later, it started again- and then all of a sudden we only had 1st gear and Reverse (though it grinded like crazy)...then after limping it around- we had no gears at all. Get it back home- drop the tranny-pan, and the NEW (two week old) filter was totally SHREDDED- nothing left to it at all...new fluid totally black and disgusting. So began the search for another transmission. Finally found one (one of two in the state of Colorado)- a rebuilt number from a 95 Dakota. Came with a torque converter and a one-year warranty.
    After much cussing and sore knuckles, old tranny & torque converter out, new tranny/T.C. installed....flushed the lines out, added fluid (has brand new filter in it)- went for test run. Fail.

    Here's the current issue:
    When hooking back up the linkage between the transfer case and the shifter, the little bracket that holds the linkage rod in place snapped. In an effort to just get his truck driving in 2WD, we haven't connected the linkage from the transfer case to the shifter (or the short drive-shaft from the T-case to the front diff. Seeing as how we might be dropping the transfer case out tomorrow ANYWAY, at this point, I'm not seeing a point to hooking that particular peice back in yet-
    When initially backing out of the driveway, all gears worked (forward and backwards)...however, upon trying to go forward down the street for the test-run, it seemed we were stuck in 4-Low...we reversed back to the driveway, put it in drive to pull back in- no longer had any gear but 1st and reverse- and the truck stalled and died. We got it back on and limped back into the driveway in 1st gear and immediately shut her down.

    My questions are:

    Would the t-case "jump" in or out of gear since that linkage isn't connected?
    Could the old tranny that was shot to crap have also taken the t-case with it when it went to hell?
    If a new t-case is needed, is it just as year-model specific as the transmission or are there other options? (Another buddy of mine with a newer model Dakota was able to pull an automatic transmission from a durango and use in his dakota- but the 94-95 years are very specific)
    Since the transmission & torque-converter are from a 95, does the transfer case need to also be from a 95? If so, does that mean that newer drive-shafts would be needed?

    He's supposed to leave for Montana in a couple of days, and I'm packing up to move to TX in the middle of the month, so time & funding are NOT on our side with this one. I'm open to advice & suggestions...
    Seven-One-Nine. 434. 007-Zero. Text messages are awesome- since I'll probably be spending most of the day away from the computer (and under a truck)...

    Side-note: The wife's truck is the same truck- only manual transmission...and if something major like this ever goes wrong with it- I'm trailering that thing to the shop, throwing some cash their way- and sayin: "here- have fun"....LOVE LOVE Dodge/MOPAR....don't want to work on another 94 Dakota for a LONG time...glad I drive a Ram.
  • jbhodjjbhodj Member Posts: 1
    Background: As title states I have a 1999 Dakota 4x4, 5.2L with 160K on it. Yesterday when I went to put the truck in reverse there was a loud whirring noise, not grinding really. Truck would go forward no problem at that point until I drove a little further then lost all forward momentum. It started to slip then go back into gear then quite altogether. Putting the truck in park with engine running, the same whirring sound was noticed

    Got the truck towed home and then it sat it driveway for an entire day.

    Today, I started the truck up to have someone listen to the sounds I was hearing and the truck went into drive, park and reverse just fine with no abnormal noises or issues.

    Would like opinions on next step on what I should do or if its best to just start looking for a new tranny
  • circuitrydercircuitryder Member Posts: 30
    I lost reverse in my 46re, and found a piece of snap ring in my trans pan. From what I know, this points to a broken snap ring in the OD unit. (?) I'm planning on buying a reman. OD, but I need to know if the unit for sale will match the one in my truck. The reman unit has #09104 and #19104 stamped on the bottom. My truck is a 2001 Dakota/5.9, and the OD is still in the truck. I don't want to take it out until I have the replacement in hand. Any help with id?
  • dekemp81dekemp81 Member Posts: 1
    My overdrive and cruise control stopped working in my 01 Dakota. It worked just fine until I went through a big water puddle after a heavy rain. What could be the problem?
  • sunshine12986sunshine12986 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1996 dodge dakota base line model automatic trans. its been runing fine a few times it has like chugged when accelerating...when today I went to drive away and would not go anywhere put in reverse went right into gear. put it back in drive and had to floor it to get it to move checked the tran fluid was a little low put some in nothing someone mentioned a transmision module tried to look up could not find such a part. got any advice before some garage trys to rape me .....
  • jackcashjackcash Member Posts: 1
    2 months ago,started not shifting into o/d. changed filter,fluid. o/d started working.6 wks later started no o/d.fluid no smell,clean red color. drop pan again,unplugged od solenoid,light came on od off. ohm out solenoid no tone.put pan back on.new fluid added. switched out trans relay w/horn relay,no o/d shift.3 wires vt,blk/w,brn/g(12v);2wires vt/bk,grn/w no volts;3wires org(12v),blk/bl,w/or. codes from autozone:po753,p1762,p1764,p1765..internal part failure? thanks any help.
  • dpm2dpm2 Member Posts: 2
    Jay -My Dakota is doing the same thing. Did you ever find a solution?
  • dpm2dpm2 Member Posts: 2
    Same truck, same trouble. Did you ever find a solution?
  • sunshine12986sunshine12986 Member Posts: 3
    Well my solution to the problem I just replaced the transmision....over 2,000.00 but worth it cause my truck is in mint condition other wise. :)
  • circuitrydercircuitryder Member Posts: 30
    Just replaced my OD unit, and now the truck is stuck in park/ won't engage gears. Had trouble installing OD (splines got out of alignment). Had trans out and sitting on bell housing with output shaft pointing up. Spent over 2 hours trying to install OD by pushing/shoving/sliding it down against shaft. Got new unit, but it would not full seat (about 1/4 inch gap) between OD face and rear of trans. Finally, bolted it down and as it seated, I heard a "spring-like" pop from the trans, and the unit seated. I hadn't been able to move the shift arm on the side of the trans until that point, when it would then go freely through the gear detents. Now, I've got the truck back together, and shifter on column works as normal, but no gear change. The truck seems to be stuck in park. I hesitate to put the AFT +4 back in because it is so expensive, since I may have to go back into the trans. Did I screw up the trans, or do you think that it's somehow jammed in park? What to do?
  • circuitrydercircuitryder Member Posts: 30
    HOld the phone! My "truck whisperer" wife made it work somehow. Everything is cool.
  • wuzfuz2wuzfuz2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 Dakota QC 4.7 w/44000miles. I have an engine miss at any speed 35 to 55 held for any distance. It idles fine, otherwise runs good. NO codes. Transmissions shifts fine. Had the top plugs changed no change. Have run gas additive twice no change. At any steady speed it feel like I am running into a gusting wind. Tach stays steady.
  • scoopyexscoopyex Member Posts: 31
    My 07 Ram does the same exact thing and some days it drives me insane. if you open the hood and open the throttle up 1200-1800 rpms you should see the engine start rocking slightly. I have 82K on my truck and it's been doing this since I bought it new.
  • psainpsain Member Posts: 1
    2000 dodge dakota the fly wheel is kicking in and out very fast when the speed gets up around 50 . Dose anyone know how to fix this?
  • denysedenyse Member Posts: 3
    I really need help in more ways then one but lets just start with this....My husband has a 98 Dodge Dakota and the transmission is slipping. It has been going for awhile but this morning it is slipping out of drive and struggling then slipping back into drive. Can I hope that maybe it is not a full transmission problem and just a easy fix??????? :cry:
  • circuitrydercircuitryder Member Posts: 30
    edited July 2012
    Have you checked the fluid level? These transmissions are very sensitive to fluid level. You have to put the truck in neutral on level ground to check it.
  • denysedenyse Member Posts: 3
    Thank you. I have sent this information on to my husband.
  • tjames1984tjames1984 Member Posts: 6
    First- get a Chilton or Haynes book...that should be the first thing you buy for ANY vehicle.

    If it's still just slipping (no grinding yet) you MIGHT be able to save it- drop the transmission pan and filter (fairly easy- 14-15 bolts on the pan on the bottom of the transmission)....you'll want a new filter & gasket kit (about 12 bucks at O'Reilly's) and you'll need new transmission fluid....since its slipping so badly, I would recommend draining ALL the fluid out of it, so to refill it, you'll need a lot (probably about 15 quarts of ATF+4)... To get ALL the fluid out- once you drop the trannypan and filter out (and get the inevitable red shower that you'll get), turn the truck ON, and cycle it through the gears (move the selector from Park all the way down to low)...when you get into reverse, allow the truck to move a couple of inches...when you get into the driving gears (D,2,L, etc) allow the truck to move back that few inches. This is called "rocking the truck" and it allows the +/- 10 quarts of old fluid to drain out of the Torque Converter....Once it's all drained out- follow the instructions in the Chilton or Haynes for adjusting the Transmission Bands (located in the same place you just pulled the trannypan and filter from)....if your transmission isnt already chewed up, then this SHOULD save you....once you're done, put new filter in place, new gasket on trannypan, and put trannypan back where you got it- be sure to put ALL THE BOLTS BACK and tighten them down across from each other like you would when changing a tire...so as not to have any leaks. When adding new fluid- turn the truck ON...ad about 4 quarts at a time, cycle the gears, add more fluid....it'll take 10+ just to fill the Torque Converter....and the transmission pan holds about 4 quarts... The advantage of doing it yourself rather than taking it in- is a lot of transmission places dont fully do the work- they instead just suck the fluid out of the dipstick, refill it through there, and then charge you 130 bucks for nothing...if you dont adjust the bands and change the filter- then you're just asking to spend a few thousand in transmission...Good luck. If you happen to be near the Austin, TX area, message me back on here and we'll swap contact info- and I'll come fix it.
  • denysedenyse Member Posts: 3
    I wish we did. We live in MD. Many,many years ago we lived at Ft Hood. Thank you for your help. I have print out your advice and will give to me my husband.
  • sunshine12986sunshine12986 Member Posts: 3
    I also have a 96 dodge dakota same problems...sorry not good I ended up replacing my trans :cry::cry:
  • silverback0311silverback0311 Member Posts: 2
    ok im new here so here i go i have a 97 Dakota 5 speed nv3500 transmission had the transmission rebuilt i put a new clutch kit in the truck and just replaced the slave cylinder master cylinder assembly this is the problem the truck starts fine but when i go to put it in any gear it grinds bad i can usually get reverse and its fine but sometimes grinds there to i am out of ideas because i was sure it was the slave cylinder assembly. the only other thing i can think of is the fork that holds the throwout bearing ( can it be put in backwards i put it in numbers facing me to where i could read them) if you guys can help me out i appreciate it
  • tjames1984tjames1984 Member Posts: 6
    I'm not sure about the fork for the throw-out bearing...I haven't had the privilege of working on a 97 Dakota yet....I just rebuilt the engine in my 02 Ram (360 Mag)...that was fun...now I'm due for a transmission filter/fluid change...once again- back out in the heat :)
    Again- best advice that I can give to ANYBODY about a vehicle problem- consult the almighty Chilton or Haynes...thats the ultimate tool for whatever vehicle you have... When the transmission was rebuilt- did they put the gear-oil or fluid it in? Manual Transmissions- while they don't have fluid that you check and add like an automatic, they DO have their own fluid/oil inside them that allows them to operate...there should be two plugs- one that sits a little higher than the other- and both on the same side of the transmission...they're probably a hex-head plug- and they're probably a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] to loosen up...find those two plugs, and find the one that sits HIGHER than the other one...the higher one is the one you loosen up and remove to check your fluid level in there- much like checking the gear oil in a differential box...stick your finger in and feel for it...you should feel the fluid just at the bottom of that hole...if you do- then thats not the problem, consult the chilton/haynes again.....if you dont- then remove the bottom plug (because you might as well drain out whatever nastiness remains of the old stuff since its low or non-existant...drain it- put bottom plug back in- fill from top plug-hole...then put top-plug back... Hope that helps- again- I'm not 100% on that- it just seems logical based on the transmissions i HAVE worked on....best of luck!
  • silverback0311silverback0311 Member Posts: 2
    well i have read my haynes book over and over the transmission was empty when i got it back from the shop and i filled it myself. i was looking through my book and i noticed that the clutch fork has a retainer clip on it. well mine never had one on it so when i put it back in i didnt think twice about it could the missing retaining clip be causing all my problems
  • tjames1984tjames1984 Member Posts: 6
    That could be your problem- also- how much fluid did you put back in when you filled it? Remember that torque converter ALONE holds probably 10 quarts...

    If the retaining clip is missing- the next question is it somewhere INSIDE the transmission case? Hopefully not, or I would be worried about the quality of the rebuild done by the shop. Did the shop offer any warranty on their work? If so- I'd take it back to them...but I'd first check the ammount of fluid in the transmission. When re-filling it, you'll have to fill it, close it- run it and cycle it through the gears (as best as possible) and then shut it off and repeat the process over and over again until that torque converter is filled up... good luck!
  • davee2davee2 Member Posts: 3
    Clutch went as a plastic tube burst or split. Mechanic tried a lot of options but I was forced to buy a whole unit (slave & master cylinder& tubing ) He said removal & replacement was the worst clutch job he ever faced! As delivered you get one chance to couple tube directly as they are prefilled & there are no bleeders for air or refill
    If this is typical of Dodge design they deserve to be shot! $370.00 to buy parts alone This was a 2002 2 wd with 125,000 km
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