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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Fuel Pump/Fuel System

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  • joseywellsjoseywells Member Posts: 3
  • joseywellsjoseywells Member Posts: 3
    I have 96 chevy 5.7 vortec drove to store turn off,came out it wouldn't start act like wasn't getting fuel,got some gas and pour into carb it run as long as I added fuel,soput new GM fuel pump and filter on cause thats what everyone said was problem,guess what still won't run never had a problem till now anybody have an idea?
    thanks,joseywells
  • nelson1nelson1 Member Posts: 41
    My 2000 Silverado 1500 with 4.8 V8 Vortec had a hard start problem when hot. When cold, it would kick off just like it should, but when hot, the starter would just turn until I tapped the accellerator, then it would start, but run a little rough all the time. I changed the fuel filter - no change. I then changed the fuel pressure regulator, and bingo, truck runs great, and no more starting problem. Just thought I would pass this on, because I have heard horror stories of changing the fuel pump, (that's a big job), and then the problem still existed. Anyway, for what it's worth, if you have gas in the vacuum line dripping out, when you pull the vacuum line off of the fuel pressure regulator, chances are good that your fpr needs replacing. It cost me 49 bucks at Auto Zone.
    Nelson
  • miggmigg Member Posts: 1
    Hey guys, I'm not sure my problem has been posted by somebody else here already, I couldn't find it, but is related to some already posted. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Here it is:
    I have an '02 Silverado LS 4.3L Engine Code "W" two days ago it just died in the middle of rush-hour traffic. When I went to the rescue, I noticed that when trying to start it up, it would crank but sounded like fuel starvation, so my first thought was that I needed to replace the fuel pump or at the very least the in-line fuel filter. Well, I replaced the fuel pump, which by the way is very expensive ($396 BOSH) and the pig-tail connector included with it and start the truck, and it ran just fine, of course I tested before bolting the bed back in place. Then I remembered that I had already purchased the in-line fuel filter (AC Delco $25) shut it off, disconnected the battery again and replaced the filter, when I tried to show it the finished work to my wife, the damned truck didn't start, I stayed late night trying to figure out what was the problem and not even retracing my steps can find what went wrong. Now it cranks up like the firsts day and it sound like no gas is reaching the engine. I disconnected the new fuel filter and is dry. I disconnected the lines attached to the pump itself and there is gas there, it surges out. Any suggestions before I turn to a professional? And I don't know if I can afford that option. Also, where is the fuel pressure regulator located? Just in case I need to mess with it.
    Thanks in advance! :confuse:
  • seannooseannoo Member Posts: 15
    I also ended up changing out my fuel pump and that ended up ont being the problem. What I finally traced it down to was a bad factory ground. I grounded the pump at the same place the fuel filler stem had its cround strap connected to and it has ran great every since. It is easy to check because you can reach right over the tank from the wheel well and pull the connector loose without having to drop the tank. I would check that before taking it into the shop.
  • hawkynzhawkynz Member Posts: 1
    I have just encountered the same problem. My truck same as yours just died like it was out of gas. I replaced the filter and checked the pump. When I turn it over gas pumps out. It will start but die immediately. I have been told that it could be that not enough fuel pressure is the problem. It could be the fuel pressure regulator where ever that is. Let me know who yours is going. Might need to check the fuel pressure with a guage. I dont want to replace the pump and it still not start
  • steve154steve154 Member Posts: 3
    Help, I just spent all day trying to get my truck to run. It started fine this morning. Then 30 seconds down the road the engine quit running. Then it is very hard to get started. It cranks fine. I replaced the cap and rotor, fuel filter and made sure I can hear the fuel pump. I can use starting fluid to get it started (sometimes) and then it will idle for an hour. As soon as I start to drive it dies. If I take the key out of the ignition and wit a minuet it starts if not it just keeps cranking. I would apreciate any help or suggestions. the check engine light does not come on. No codes. thanks
  • truckgirl77truckgirl77 Member Posts: 1
    I know that title sounds crazy but it's the truth. About a month or 2 ago I started having trouble when I would go to put gas in the truck. I would start the pump and shortly after that the vapor recovery would kick in and shut off the pump. I started to listen to what was going on and it sounds like the gas is filling the tube between the opening and the tank and then trickling into the tank. Needless to say, it takes about twenty minutes to get 20.00 worth of gas. That amounts to a quarter tank...not getting me very far. I began to ask around and found out that there is a device that GM has installed so that if you roll your vehicle the gas doesn't pour out...OK, seems like this is stuck and is blocking the tank.

    SO, how the heck to I fix it? Preferably cheaply.

    Also...check engine light is on and has been for awhile. OBD codes say it's the oxygen sensor (if I recall correctly)...could this all be related?

    And, if anyone has some insight into my stuck speedometer that would be great to!

    HELP
  • jeffsayersjeffsayers Member Posts: 15
    Not a pro, but I had a similar issue once. Changed pump and when I put it back together I must have had the hose kinked. Had to hold the fuel nozzle only about 1/4 way open to keep it going smoothly.

    Crawl under and check the fuel tank straps to make sure they are tight and in good condition. (Tank could have moved and pinched the fill hose.)Don't know about an anti-spill device, so I can't help there.

    The oxygen sensor(s) are part of a different system so I don't see a connection there. However, you may want to have the codes scanned again, if this anti-spill device is controlled electronically at all it may well have set a code also. Note: Test those sensors before replacing it/them. They are expensive.

    Lastly, speedometer is controlled by a cable to the transmission. Look for it coming from the firewall behind the dash and make sure it is connected on both ends!
  • donavin1976donavin1976 Member Posts: 2
    Speedo cables are pretty much non-existant on 1990's and up vehicles. Most likely you have a vehicle speed sensor,it's located on the drivers side tailstock of the tranny. This pick-up "reads" splines on the final drive/output shaft,and it's driven ba a plastic gear that some times strips, or sensor just dies. IF YOU PULL IT OUT, MAKE A MARK ON THE TRANS AND SENSOR WITH A MARKER! THEY GO BACK IN 3 DIFFERENT WAYS, FOR 3 DIFFERENT GEAR SIZES! LINE THE MARKS BACK UP. also do over a pan and cardboard a little fluid may drip out. turn key on, and spin gear by hand,have frend watch speedo. if it moves, you may need a new $4.00 gear with the same number of teeth on it.( if it's magnettic pick-up check for metal& clean it off,reinstal,and goodluck.you should only need a 10 mm socket, and a pan.
  • kevinsgmckevinsgmc Member Posts: 2
    I cant seem to get the top ring to lock into place. Any hints?
  • seannooseannoo Member Posts: 15
    It is just very tight. When I did mine; I put a little oil on the gasket and used a parge set of channel locks to turn the assembly to get it to snap in.
  • kevinsgmckevinsgmc Member Posts: 2
    Thanks i will try that
  • itsdedrickitsdedrick Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 chevy silverado 1500 4x4 4.8 and i bought it used with 77,000 miles... the ses light was on when i bought it and the dealer told me it was the gas cap but i took it to auto zone and the scanner brought up codes po137 and po157 and i changed one oxygen sensor and it didnt help so changed the air filter and the mass airflow sensor and its still idleing rough hesitating when i get on the gas starting hard and when it does start there is a rich smell of gas...i was told it could be the fuel pump and i should check it by putting a fuel pressure gauge on it and if it reads low then its bad and i was also told to change the fuel pressure regulator but i dont know....does any one know wat i should do or ne one that has had this problem?
  • jeffsayersjeffsayers Member Posts: 15
    Sounds like a bad EGR valve to me, I've seen lots of posts for many different years with the same trouble. Test anything you suspect before you replace it. Good luck!
  • italiangraywolitaliangraywol Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Silverado pick up with a fuel system problem. It would start but die out after seconds or when the accelerator pedal is pressed. I pulled the tank and the pump. I connected power to the pump and it runs. I checked the harness connector to the pump when I turned the key on (provides power to the pump), there's no power at the connector. I also checked the ground for continuity and found no continuity. I jumpered the fuel pump relay in the fuse box and do get power to the connector but no ground. I switched the relay with the horn relay (they're the same) and the fuel pump relay works. I disassembled the fuel pump connector and found it to be in good condition. I also checked the ground lug and it has good connectivity. Does anyone have any ideas on what I can try next? I'm going to check the trouble code if there is one but I don't understand two things, why don't I get power to the pump when I turn the key on and why don't I have a good ground?

    I narrowed the problem down a bit. I pulled the relay and turned the key on. I measured the voltage at the coil relay pins and measured 12 volts, but I still get 0 volts to the fuel pump connector. I turned the key off and measured 0 volts which tells me that the PCM is working. I know the relay is good because I switched the fuel pump relay with the horn and thy're the same.

    I can jumper the fuel pump relay contact pins for the relay and measure 12 volts when I connect my voltmeter to the power in at the fuel pump and then frame. When I connect to the power pin and the ground pin I measure about 6 volts.

    I checked the continuity of the ground pin to the frame and show no continuity. I believe I have a bad ground but that still doesn't explain why the relay won't send voltage to the fuel pump when the key is turned on. Am I missing something? Any ideas would surely be appreciated. Thanks.
  • italiangraywolitaliangraywol Member Posts: 3
  • 01rado01rado Member Posts: 6
    im not realy sure what chevy uses for this.but some vehicles have to have vacume pressure to tell the pump to work.in other words your pump and relay may be right.the sensor to tell the pump to work may have a problem.ie if you had a wreck and killed the engine it wouldn`t keep pumping to a broke line if you left the key on.i know not much help but another opp.the vehicle i ran into this on there was a flapper in the top of the throttle body you had to manualy hold like if you ran it out of gas to prime
  • rlj8rlj8 Member Posts: 1
    I just had a simular problem. Here is what I did to find the problem. I assumed that my problem was a fuel problem because of a recent fill up at a questionable gas station. Here is what I did... Remove gas cap to hear fuel pump run when you turn key on. This eliminates the fuel pump. Change fuel filter to eliminate that. If it still runs rough you have to eliminate other options. Test the coil wire to make sure it is firing. I tested mine and found that it was not firing. I tested the coil wire and it was good. After closer inspection of the coil pack I noticed that there are a red and a white wire that plugs into the top of the coil pack. The white wire was broken inside the insulation. This was causing it to seem like it was not firing right/bad fuel. I replacee the bad wiring and it is running fine now. Also, I also noticed that when it was running rough it also smoked form the tail pipe due to not burning all of the fuel. This indicates that it was getting fuel just not burning it. This is another indication that it was a ignition problem.
  • itsdedrickitsdedrick Member Posts: 2
    i fixed the problem...i replaced the o2 sensor and it didnt help and the codes were saying that it was either running rich or lean so i replaced the airfilter and the mass air sensor and still no change and i remembered when i started it i could smell gas so i tried that angle and the dealer said the fuel pump had just been replaced so i went ahead and replaced the fuel pressure regulator and it has run great ever since, excellent throttle response, and it no longer runs rough...thanks for everyones help though.
  • steve154steve154 Member Posts: 3
    I tested almost everthing before trying new gas. The gas must have been a little watered down and the truck would not run. After replacing the gas it now runs fine. The bad gas did work in other vehicles. ?????? Its worth a try.
  • langolango Member Posts: 2
    I AM JUST EXPERIENCING A SIMILAR PROBLEM AS YOU HAD. DID YOU GET YOURS FIXED? WHAT WAS THE PROBLEM
  • melvinmmelvinm Member Posts: 1
    my son has a 05 silverado truck and his engine light comes on,checked it and found it was emission related, changed fuel cap, and cleared code, light came back on a few minutes later, anyone have any suggestions. thanks
  • thatshotthatshot Member Posts: 3
    I've heard of vapor lock but I don't know if it would apply in your situation though it's a heat and fuel related problem. If you run your tank too low consistently maybe the pump is overheating. you're supposed to keep at least a quarter of a tank of gas at all times as the fuel in the tank keeps the pump cool.Change the fuel filter too. If the engine quits but starts with an engine start spray then you're not getting fuel. If you can smell gas in the exhaust then you're getting fuel but no spark.If it quits but starts after you beat on the bottom of the tank with a heavy object then it is likely the fuel pump. Can you hear a high pitched whine coming from the back of the vehicle when you turn it on? - that's the system "pumping up" to operating pressure. If you've got aroung 90,000 miles on the vehicle and it's a chevy/gmc chances are it's the fuel pump BUT change the fuel filter anyway if you can't remember when it was last changed. Man the list is endless.Are you sure it was the right gas??!!
  • thatshotthatshot Member Posts: 3
    I thought there was a 7 year/70,000 mile blanket warranty on all vehicles if there was an emissions related problem.Correct me if I'm wrong . Maybe it only applies in certain states. I live in sunny Ca. Did you delete the code?
  • wredheadwredhead Member Posts: 1
    I turn on the engine but it dies within a few seconds. I've tried other things to find out problem but don't seem to be the cause. Others have suggested could be the fuel filter, but I can't seem to locate the fuel filter. Where is it located on this and could this be the problem.
  • jrobalinjrobalin Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2000 chevy silvarado vortec v6. it will start for a few seconds, but then dies. also, when you start it and give it gas it will die. it acts like its running out of fuel (spudders out). i ran 3 different scanning machines on it and they all read "no codes found." it will stay running with starting fluid. if anyone has any ideas, or feedback i would appreciate the help! thank you.

    jeremiah
  • kobiewhitekobiewhite Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1990 chevy k1500 305 Throttle body. When I try to start it there is no fuel from the line I disconnected from the back of the throttle body. I know the pump is good because if I bypass it through the fuse that is on the firewall with power it will spray fuel. I thought that it was the computer but no luck. Is there a sensor or something that would tell the pump not to come on? Filter has been changed ,new line from tank, has spark, this is getting $$$$ Truck only has 34,000 miles
  • tommylee07tommylee07 Member Posts: 2
    Ok, I have a 2000 Silverado 5.3. I started having problems with my truck a few months ago, it would be hard to start cold or hot, and i was running rich, very rich. when i pressed the gas it would stutter and then catch up with itself and i wouldnt have any problems. My gas mileage was horrible. Recently my truck cut off on me in the middle of the road, and once i got it to start again, i was like i was holding my foot on the gas all the way to the floor, but i wasnt. it would sit and idle all on its on at about 5000rpm's. put it in gear and it would calm down but wouldnt stay running long. leave it idling high on its own and it would eventually die out. the computer codes are nothing but mis-fires, several. and then it want read anything else........i need some help, anybody got an answer for me....
  • tronicguytronicguy Member Posts: 1
    Did u resolve this issue? I have the exact problem. Suspect fuel pump! :cry:
  • spenn4mespenn4me Member Posts: 1
    PLEASE HELP ME!!!!
    I have a 2000 chevy silverado that I've replaced the fuel pump in. The problem is I have no power to the pump. I've checked the relays, fuses, replace fuel filter. I even exchanged the pump for a 2nd one because I thought it may have been defective. I'm out of ideas so please share yours. Thanks. :cry: :confuse:
  • kobiewhitekobiewhite Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1990 so I don't know if this could be the same issue as mine was but I found out that if I sent power to the pump through the main power line, which you could determine by a Haynes manual wiring diagrahm, then my fuel pump worked. It ended up being a fuesable link had burned out so it couldn't send power to the pump. Hope this helps.
  • mike396mike396 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 88 Gmc Sierra with a strange issue, The truck will not send power to the fuel pump. I changed the oil pressure sending unit temp sensor, fuel pump, fuel pump relay, and the computer. I ran a wire to the pump and it works but the only way the truck will start is by priming it with gas or starting fluid.
  • ranger07ranger07 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my 2003 Silverado. After checking the relay and fuse and then replacing the filter, I changed out the fuel pump and found this didn't fix the problem. I then began tracing the wires looking for a break, short or ground. I started at the pump and followed the wires forward and found the ground wire (thicker of the two black wires) exited the wire harness just behind the drivers side front wheel well where it was grounded to the frame. The insulation around the wire had been damaged and (thanks to our good old Minnesota road salt!) the wire corroded and wasn't making a solid connection. I repaired it, turned the switch to on and was happy to hear the fuel pump humming away.
    It cost me the price of a new fuel pump to learn this lesson - make darn sure there is power at the fuel pump before changing it. Oh well, at least I have a good used fuel pump on the shelf! :blush:
  • burntheskyburnthesky Member Posts: 1
    So I Went To Start My Truck After It Had Only
    Been Sitting For About An Hour.. And It Wouldnt
    Start... Its Turning Over Fine And It Has Spark. I Just Replaced The Fuel Filter About A Month Ago, So Im Thinking Its The Fuel Pump Possibly... So My Question Is Before I Start Tearing [non-permissible content removed]
    Apart Does Anyone Have Any Other Ideas? And Where Exactly Is The Fuel Pump On A 97 Gmc Sierra 5.7 Thanks
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    On your vehicle the symptom you described sounds like a bad fuel pump. Vortec engines by Gm require 55-60 psi of fuel pressure depending whom you ask. I suggest you check the rail pressure. If it is under 55 psi it will not start even if the pressure is 40 psi. GM fuel injectors have a poppet inside the injector. If there isn't enough pressure, they will not spray fuel. If your vehicle will start and run briefly by spraying carb cleaner into the intake, it is definitely a fuel issue.

    Your fuel pump is located inside your fuel tank. Fuel tank removal is required in order to replace it.
  • fenxfenx Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    My positive battery cable shorted out to the frame in a slow fashion and left lots of corrosion around the frame area where this happened. I replaced the positive battery cable and the fusible link wire that went along with the set-up. Of course I broke the connector on the starter and had to get a reman, and a new battery as well as the positive connector was corroded. After all of this work, the truck will not start. It has spark, and when I put some gas into the EFI carburetor, it will momentarily fire-up, then die. The fuel pump fuse is good, but I suspect the EFI system is not delivering fuel, and I noticed some fusible links on some wires next to the fuse-block in the engine compartment. What is my next step and what probably happened when the positive battery cabel shorted out?
    Thanks in advance?
  • danysdanys Member Posts: 4
    i have a 94 gmz71 the problem im having ia lw fuel injection could you help me figure out the issue
  • danysdanys Member Posts: 4
    idling unstable goes up and down hard on gas lack of power when accelerate at low speed or from a stop sign
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    Any time something like this happens, you need to check all fuses with a test light to verify power is going through them. Then, with key on engine off check the fusible links with a test light to verify power is going through them all the way, at each end of the link. A visual check is not good enough. Unplug one of the injector plugs key still on, and check to make sure there is power there. If all this checks out, plug in a noid light into the injector plug and see if it blinks while the engine is cranked over. If you have power but no saturation (noid light blink) there is a problem with the driver controls of the PCM, cam sensor problem, or some other type of short or malfuction in that area of the controls. You didn't state year make model and engine size. TBI you indicated so I'm guessing 88-98
  • 882500gmc882500gmc Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problems as you. Last weekend i blew the fuel pump fuse twice in two days. So... I replaced sending unit, pump replaced a few grounds and all was well. This morning it wouldn't start. Fuel pump fuse is not blown. I would really like to know if you are making any headway. I am leaning towards it being one of the fusible links next to the fuel pump fuse on the firewall.
    You can email me at mattspicoli@hotmail.com
    Hopefully we get this sorted out this weekend
  • rortiz1242rortiz1242 Member Posts: 4
    I think you would have to start at the fuel pump and work your way back to the fuse. If you have not changed this fuel pump ever I would venture to guess it is worn out. How many miles do you have on this truck. If the wires have been damaged at the pump this would cause the fuses to go out and if the pump is blown that would cause it to stop working altogether.

    hope that helps.

    R
  • pickupgrlpickupgrl Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I have a 2003HD and a day ago while driving down the highway it starting making a loud noise almost like a jet engine running(not quite that loud) and it seems that it is only doing this when i accelerate. It seems to have a hard time getting up to speed. It is a 8.1. Any ideas on what this is or anyone experience the same thing.
  • kilowattkilowatt Member Posts: 4
    00 GMC Sierra
    I have had the fp problem,It was the sending unit.Replace the whole unit.
    I have the abs /brake warning lite It comes and goes .
    told that it could be a ground or the relay in the brake mod still have not
    fixed that problem.For last fews wks I have had a starting problem.It will start right up at times, them it will crank for ever then it will start.It has stalled Twice since the problem appeared. It is at the dealership they have not found the problem.
    They tried a new pcm but that was not it.They put the old pcm back on.
    They have replace the + cable still no luck. If anyone out there has any ideas
    I could use the help. Indpls In
  • kilowattkilowatt Member Posts: 4
    It took the dealership 6 days to find the problem.
    It was the coil and the coil wire. It was the moisture and condisation .
    They cleaned the crank sensor. Changed the coil and wire.
    The problem went away inside the building.reappeared in the mornings outside the building.
    They had to call GMC Tech support.
    So for all of you who are have the same problem .
    Check the coil and wire.
  • davidxdavidx Member Posts: 1
    my 2001 gmc sierra engine keeps dying,it had 143000 miles on it,i already gave it a tune which helped the problem for a week and i can hear the fuel pump pressurize,i changed the relays,the oil i did everything,but is dies when im at a stop or when im driving,when its about to die when im driving i have to floor it to stay on,what do you think it is?
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    Your going to have to do some trouble shooting to find out what is failing. Even though you hear the fuel pump, I would still check the pressure to verify the pressure isn't dropping out below 55psi. With 143000 miles on it I would also suspect carbon build up in the throttle body. Going by the symptom only with no trouble codes, after verifying the fuel pressure is ok, my next suspect would be the MAF mass air flow sensor, or the IAC idle air control valve. Start with checking the fuel pressure and see if the fuel pressure falls during the actual running problem. Your vehicle is very fuel pressure sensative.
  • kilowattkilowatt Member Posts: 4
    Hi
    I found out you have to use all delco parts .
    No after market. It cost me $100 to find this out. Plus the new parts . I also use seafoam fuel treatment. You can get it at any auto parts. It is good for the fuel system and carbon build up.
    The problem with my Trk was the coil and wire.
  • 1hdrider1hdrider Member Posts: 2
    got a clogged fuel line...no gas to pump...i believe the sock on sending unit is clogged...is there a way to flush it out without dropping the fuel tank...i need a quick fix for now & when i get the time i`ll go through the whole systom...i heard shooting paint thinner or mineral spirits with air can work...or is this a bad idea...tks
  • 1hdrider1hdrider Member Posts: 2
    got a clogged fuel line...no gas to pump...i believe the sock on sending unit is clogged...is there a way to flush it out without dropping the fuel tank...i need a quick fix for now & when i get the time i`ll go through the whole systom...i heard shooting paint thinner or mineral spirits with air can work...or is this a bad idea...tks
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