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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Fuel Pump/Fuel System

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Comments

  • tukn20stukn20s Member Posts: 1
    This just started recenlty. I have a 2000 silverado w/ approx. 142,000miles. This happens when the truck has been sitting for a while. it wont start unless i pump the gas pedal while i turn the key to start. i can turn it off after it has been driven then start it up without any problems, but if it just sits for a while expecially in the morning, i would need to pump the gas pedal. I've changed the fuel filter with no luck. now ive been told it might be the fuel pump. has anyone experienced this before? if it is the fuel pump, what am i looking at cost wise to fix? i can purchase the fuel pump and have my dad help me since he is a retired mechanic. i just need a ballpark estimate at what im looking at.
    thanks for the help
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    gmpartsdirect has the fuel pump listed at $265 + shipping.
  • ftrspeedyftrspeedy Member Posts: 7
    hey pickupgrl, since its the 8.1 i assume diesel, if so check all turbo hoses and the air to air cooler, i guess the harder u are on the throttle the louder it gets, its the turbo boost leaking out and that would be why u have a loss of power.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    The 8.1 is a gasser not a diesel. The diesel is a 6.6
  • ftrspeedyftrspeedy Member Posts: 7
    aahh my bad. too many diff engines for one vehicle ya know. checked for vacuum leaks?
  • kobelco269kobelco269 Member Posts: 1
    i had the same problem it is your fuel pump its not totaly gone but it going
  • kilowattkilowatt Member Posts: 4
    I replaced the fuel pump myself.
    pump cost at NAPA was $289
    I dropped the tank with in 30 min. Jack the truck high enough to slide the tank out . You should be able to do the job in less then 3 hrs. DO NOT GET A CHEAP ONE.
    Also make sure to change the connector on the wiring.
    That has been some of the problem.
    You should not have any trouble
  • scottwelder1scottwelder1 Member Posts: 2
    i have an 03 silverado with a 5.3 it has electronic throttle control and when i am coming to a stop it wants to die sometimes does and it has a very rough idle i already changed plugs wires fuel filter and cleaned my k and n air filter i have checked all vacum lines there is no vacum leak i even checked the vacum brake booster it holds vacum just fine i did a trany filter and filter change and no metal shavings and i have not gotten any trouble codes and when i was doing the tune up i had the battery disconnected after re connecting the battery i had to drive it around for 45 minutes of it constantly dieing at stops before it relearned to adjust for this problem. do you think its the idle air control valve or a fuel problem or electrical
  • muddhopperz71muddhopperz71 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2000 Chevy Silverado. My truck ran out of gas while I was at a parts wholesaler getting parts for another truck. I new my fuel pump was going bad so I figured that was the prob so i bought one and put it on. When I turn the key forward the pump will not run. I checked all fuses and relays and they were good. I stuck a test light into the harness and got nothing. What could be killing the power to my pump?
  • danysdanys Member Posts: 4
    i there you must have a fuel pump relay under hood check if you have power on both side of relay if not fuel pump relay blown it happenned to me on a 94 sierra and 2002 silverado
  • muddhopperz71muddhopperz71 Member Posts: 5
    yea I checked it earlier today and I had power on both sides but the 15amp fuse next to it did not have power to it and the book said that fuse was the Ignition, Fuel control(relay)
  • floridagmcfloridagmc Member Posts: 1
    I've had the same problem with my 2000 GMC Yukon with 5.3 motor, and also in my 2003 Siverado with 8.1. Stalls all the time, the motor with serge up and down, bad fuel mileage etc... Did tune ups, changes fuel filter, had injectors cleaned several times, and no codes would come up. Finally found my problem, you have to take the black intake hose going to the throttle body off. There is one big hose clamp that holds it on the throttle body, just take this off and look inside the throttle body and there will be a butterfly, carbon is restricting the air flow causing the butterfly to surge by opening and closing causes the vehicle to start and stall, and stall when you let off the gas etc. So take the rag with gas on it and reach in hold butterfly open and clean the top and bottom of throttle body where butterfly closes. hope this fixes your problem iit did for me.
  • danysdanys Member Posts: 4
    yes that his th one just change it should solve prob and yu could check also harness going to back of thruck by driver door
  • muddhopperz71muddhopperz71 Member Posts: 5
    I got it running last night. I changed all the fuses and the truck would start but then cut off so i added more fuel. Now it is running better then it had in the past 3 years. I took it to the dealership for 2 years after i bought it because it wouldnt start right and they wouldnt replace the fuel pump and keep saying that wasnt the prob. It was. Thanks for the info!!
  • elamcupelamcup Member Posts: 1
    Have you fixed the problem yet?

    Tom
  • rickbrittrickbritt Member Posts: 1
    Fixed fuel pump in unusual way. Have a 99 GMC Sierra 1500. Found this website. http://www.myhonestmechanic.com/articles/1999-Nissan-Maxima-engine-wont-start.sh- tml We replaced the fuel filter and then did what it said and it worked

    "If the engine turns over and over but won’t start...I would have someone bang on the bottom of the fuel tank with a rubber hammer or block of wood AS you crank the engine over. This can help kick start a weak fuel pump. If you still can’t get it to start...you will need a mechanic and a tow truck I am afraid. There is not much a do-it-yourselfer can really do these days without the proper tools and manuals."

    Hope this works for someone else too. It saved us over $300.
  • muddhopperz71muddhopperz71 Member Posts: 5
    yea, I ended up changing all the fuses and added another gallon of gas and it fired right up and is running really good now.
  • hydro28hydro28 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 gmc sierra with a 4.8. It idols rough, it's worse when the engine is cold and spits and sputters when you try to take off. The check engine light is on i took it to auto zone and they first thought it was the mass air flow sensor so i replaced that with no luck. and then they said it was probably the fuel pump. so i replaced the fuel filter and it ran good for a few hours and then went to back to the same as before. Do you think that it is the fuel pump? :confuse:
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Sounds like it could be your IAC Idle Air Controller. If it's dirty that would probably your culprit.
  • muddhopperz71muddhopperz71 Member Posts: 5
    I had the same kinda problem but it was when the engine was warm. I would have to tap the gas peddle to get the truck to start but if i hadnt drove it for awhile it would start right up. I just changed my fuel pump and it is running great now. The fuel pump cost me 280.00 and I put it on my self with no prob.
  • az32guyaz32guy Member Posts: 3
    I have now had 3 fuel pumps in the last 15,000. The OEM fuel pump was replaced with a FG0089 modular fuel pump sending unit. 6 months later it failed and was replaced with a FG0089. 8 months later this one failed and was replaced with a FG0089.

    Just 10 days after the 3rd fuel pump was installed the Tahoe turned over but failed to start. After being towed to the shop and the shop tries to start the Tahoe and it starts.

    Now I am going crazy I need the vehicle to work.

    I do some checking and find there are 2 fuel pumps for 1999 Tahoe's the FG0089 and the FG0090. My VIN # states my vehicle had the OEM FG0090. The shop says there is no difference and they will not replace the current FG0089 because it is testing 58 psi pressure.

    What can I do?
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    Sorry about your frustration. To my knowledge, both pump assemblys are the same with an exception of a hose. One is for California emissions and one for Federal. I would focus more on troubleshooting the problem, either pump should work fine.

    With this many pump replacements, I think the diagnosis is wrong. Just for info a poor ground to the pump will cause it to go bad early, and also give a false impression of a bad pump. Ground is skipped during checking by fellow techs most of the time. Recomend checking to see that all small ground straps near battery, engine compartment, and chassi have good connection and havent been removed due to some other repair.

    Let me explain what has to happen in order for your pump to come on. I will explain it in slow motion because it happens quickly.

    When you first turn your key to on (run position) not to the crank position yet. Your pump gets a 2 second prime to pressurize the system. Power from the PCM trips your fuel pump relay for 2 seconds. When your switch reaches the crank position and the PCM see's that the engine is trying to start, it trips the relay again to turn on the pump. If a ground signal from the oil pressure swich is not noticed in 2 seconds, the PCM will turn off your pump.

    So this is what has to be done to diagnose this; If it doesn't start but cranks, and the pump isn't coming on. Verify power and ground to the pump. Power wire is usually grey, and ground is usually black in color. Use a digital volt meter or equivalent and hook it to the power wire to the pump and turn the key on. You should see near battery voltage on that wire for 2 seconds. Same proceedure for ground. If both check out, and pump still isn't coming on, bad pump. If there is a ground or power failure then there is some other issue. With this many pump replacements, I suspect a poor grounding some where.
  • jeffsayersjeffsayers Member Posts: 15
    BOO to Chevy for all these darn fuel pump problems. Granted, not every post is truly a problem with this unit, but the failures are widespread.

    I have been getting lazy in my years, and all I can say is that I am glad I paid the dealership to replace mine because parts and labor are guaranteed for life. And it's a darn good thing I did because I need to take it in AGAIN! You would think they would put in a sound replacement when their profits are on the line! :mad: :cry: :sick: :lemon:
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    I don't know of any OEM part that is garanteed for life. I also question a life time garantee that includes labor. I suggest you read the fine print. Dealers garantees are usually anywhere from 90 days to one year parts and labor. After market pumps sometimes have a live time warranty. However, I did try a warranty one about a month ago on a customers car and the manufacturer is no longer in business.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Fuel pumps aren't the only problem. Has your window motor blown yet? I see more window problems than fuel problems. I guess GM must agree since they no longer sell the motor and assembly together. To save on warranty costs they are now individual units.
  • 2doorpost2doorpost Member Posts: 74
    2005 Silverado- Same thing at 36000 miles-

    There is a switch/sensor/solenoid on top of the gas tank that is tied to the emissions system on the truck. These go bad .

    I was told by the dealer, if you have a tendency to top off your gas tank, it shortens the life of the solenoid.

    Go to a dealer who actually reads their Service Bulletins and stop "shot gunning" the problem with gas caps and Code Resets.
  • az32guyaz32guy Member Posts: 3
    THANK TO ALL FOR THE INPUT.

    I was told from the VIN# one pump is 55 psi and one is 60 psi. I will also check the ground completely
  • poppy2sixpoppy2six Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 GMC XL truck 350 Motor, 2 Wh. drive,
    and went to leave a place the other day and it would not start, it would turn over but not start. No gas is getting to the cauborator. We changed the fuel filter and hope that it is not the fuel pump. Any help would be appreciated.
  • alldredgealldredge Member Posts: 1
    i just changed out my motor in my 96 tahoe and nnow it has a problem when it warms up it studders and kinda acts like its gona die my mechanic said it was a fuel pump so i changed it and still the same thing it also has a new fuel pressure regulator but im still low on pressure and running horribly anybody have any ideas
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    If your still low on pressure after a new pump and reg, test for fuel injecter leak. Close off return line and turn pump on by turning key to run position. If the pressure still bleeds off, you got an injecter stuck open(leaking). Of course there is always a possibility that the pump you put in there isn't supplying enough pressure. Your taho should have about a minimum 55psi fuel pressure to run right. Find a sutible place to disconect the pressure line like at the fuel filter. Put a pressure guage right on the end of it and clamp it tight. Should read about 60-70psi done that way and will indicate that the pump is working ok. Only thing left, fuel injecter leaking. Sorry.
  • hiscokidhiscokid Member Posts: 4
    I'm have a problem with my truck. It was running fine and the next time I went to start it, it wouldn't. The vehicle cranks over fine, I check the fuel pressure and its between 60 and 70 psi at the schrader valve. I've got plenty of spark at all the spark plugs, it just seems like there is no fuel getting inside the combustion chamber. Anybody have any ideas? This baby's got 191,000 miles on it.
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    Spray a liberal amount of carb cleaner into the throttle body, then try and start it. If it starts briefly there is a fuel delivery problem. Pressure at the rail checks ok, so injecters are not firing. Most likely cause is a bad cam sensor. Other causes are an open circut from the oil pressure sending unit, security issue. If you have a security light on your dash that says security. After turning your key to run position, the light should not blink. Using a scan tool may be helpful. If you remember the last time you were driving it, if the check engine light came on during the drive. It is usually the cam sensor. Once the engine is shut off, the PCM can't find TDC and doesn't fire the injecters.
  • hiscokidhiscokid Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the tips mickeymouse2, I ordered a scan tool and am awaiting its arrival. The check engine light had gone on a few times before it did this so you're probably right. Does it usually throw a code for the cam sensor then? If it is the cam sensor do you know if the pcm requires a relearn program once I replace it? Thanks again.
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    Does it usually throw a code for the cam sensor then? Yes. Once your code indicates a bad cam sensor, it should still be checked with a graphing meter. However, thats expensive and the sensor is probably only 45.00. No relearn needed. Once a cam signal is seen by the PCM it will fire the injecters. Your check engine light may take awhile to go off by it self, or just do a clear code reset with the scan tool. If for some reason you disconected your battery and lost any stored information. You can reset the trouble codes by cranking the engine for at least 10 seconds, and any codes pertaining to no start up will reset if there is still a problem.

    Also, special note. If the new cam sensor has a small piece of cardboard stuck on the end of it, size and shape of a dime, dont take it off. Thats for adjusting the air gap when you bolt it in. I don't think yours has this, its just a bolt in plug and play type. Good luck
  • deancolbedeancolbe Member Posts: 2
    My 1993 4.3L Silverado suddenly runs badly. Air filter is clean. All fuel lines appear ok. Only 1 fuel pump installed.
    Just filled gas tank earlier that day. Reputable, high volume station, never any fuel quality problems.
    Engine acts like it is starving for gas.
    What should I check first?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    easiest would be fuel filter
  • deancolbedeancolbe Member Posts: 2
    How often should fuel filters be replaced? Mine was last replaced in 04/2003.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I would think that should be done on an annual basis depending on your mileage however most wait till so little fuel passes that it causes problems prior to changing. It's a cheap part and fairly easy to replace so I'd start there.
  • hiscokidhiscokid Member Posts: 4
    hello, I just wanted to update you on the truck. I got my scanner and plugged it in, got no codes. Decided to see if the truck would start and it did, I did nothing to the engine. Once it started It was misfiring alot but it seems like its progressively getting better. Does anyone have any other Ideas what it could be? Also does anyone know of a cheaper way to do a fuel injection cleaning other than bringing it to the dealer? thanks.
  • biga4biga4 Member Posts: 2
    I had a similar problem last week. Truck starts fine when cold but hard starting, or won't start at all when at operating temp. Did some research and found some answers at fullsizechevy.com. A lot of the people posting there had the same issues. Found out the hard starting was caused by a leaking fuel pressure reg. On these 98-01 Sequential fuel injection Vortec engines the spider assembly and FPR are located under the upper intake manifold. once the FPR starts leaking, the fuel collects in the intake manifold and sits there flooding the engine. If the truck sits long enough the fuel will evaporate and the engine will fire. The fix for me was to purchase the upgraded Spider assembly for SFI vortecs, instead of just a FPR. This upgrade does away with the poppet style injecters and replaces them with real injecters and is complete including the FPR (GM#93441235) and is a direct bolt-in. From what I gather GM had to develop this because of problems and a recall in CA with the poppet style injectors getting clogged because of the additives in the fuel there. Since I had it installed I noticed the smoother idle, starts with just a touch of the key, and better throttle response. Haven't checked fuel milage yet but should be back to my normal 17-18 mpg city
  • hiscokidhiscokid Member Posts: 4
    My truck just started up the other day and is running fine now, it misses every once and a while but I'm thinking it was bad gas. Where can this upgraded spider assembly be purchased? I heard these poppet style injectors are nothing but problems. thanks.
  • biga4biga4 Member Posts: 2
    I got mine at a local AC Delco supply store, 1/2 price compared to what any dealership wanted. I heard of other people ordering from gmpartsdirect.com for around $260
  • mac53mac53 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Sierra 4WD with just over 99000 miles. It has developed a problem with the ABS. At slow speed stops on a dry surface, the ABS kicks on just as the truck comes to a stop. It goes off when I pump the brakes. It doesn't do this on hard stops.
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    Check for a small stone stuck in one of the pulse rings, throwing the sensor info off for one of the sensors. Also check for for a mechanical reason that one of your wheels is turning slower than the others at slow speeds.
  • jeffsayersjeffsayers Member Posts: 15
    My 2000 Silverado had a recall on the ABS sensors. They did pretty much the same thing. Call a dealer and have them check. While you're at it, have them check for recall service on the tailgate cables as well; I had mine snap while standing on it! The bad part is I received the recall notice at least a month before that happened. :mad: at myself
  • bigd41bigd41 Member Posts: 1
    My 2001 1500HD with a 6.0 Liter has been getting harder and harder to start to the point of having to floorboard the pedel to get it to crank. The truck has approx 182k miles. After that it would run Ok but a little rough idle. I thought it was my fuel pump and my mechanic confirmed it. I have been reading some issues here where some people were just replacing the "fuel regulator" at a fairly low costs. How hard is it to replace the fuel pump and what is a ball park cost for doing it? :)
  • sierraz71sierraz71 Member Posts: 1
    Have a 2001 GMC Sierra 1500,5.3L with 144k miles. Recently developed hard starting problem. No trouble codes present.Cranks with no start until 3rd attempt. Probably would start with one attempt if I didn't let up on starter. Prefer 3 short attempts to avoid damaging starter. Occurs after shutdown of approx 5 minutes or overnight. Will start OK if you shut down and restart immediately. Fuel pump and filter was replaced at 120k miles. Runs fine otherwise from idle to WOT. Have noticed after shutdown,can hear noise in the fuel tank that sounds like fuel pump is still operating or more likely pressurized fuel is returning to the tank. Replaced original plugs and wires since they were long overdue. Truck has run flawless since purchased new. Any ideas where I can start to troubleshoot ?
  • scout8scout8 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 GMC sierra that speeds up it's idle not at first,but as soon as it warms up,to about 1400 rpm. I also seem to have an excessive amount of vacuum or just very strong vacuum. Other than that it runs well.
    This is a 305 with central sequential injection.
    Any feedback is highly appreciated!
    Thanks
  • coyotehuntercoyotehunter Member Posts: 1
    hi, i have a 95 Sierra as i took off from a stop sign it suddenly starting sputtering and then died,restarted it and got home after alot of effort.replaced the fuel filter,no difference.it will sit there and idle just fine,rev's up good just when i put it in gear it will bog down and then do a surge of running good,then bog down again.fuel pump or something else?i am at a loss,need some advice badly.thanks
  • jeffsayersjeffsayers Member Posts: 15
    I had a similar set of symptoms on an old car once. I found that the air duct going into the intake was cracked between the air sensor and the manifold. Everything was fine untill I put it in gear, then it would bog out and die unless I VERY SLOWLY fed the gas and built up speed.

    The replacement was pretty expensive from what I remember. If this is the problem, a half of a roll of duct tape will work just as good as a new air duct!

    Good luck, let us know!
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