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Comments
Joel
2. turn the key on listen for a wining noise from the fuel pump area.
is your fuel gauge moving erratically?
when is the last time you changed your fuel filter?
any pulsing/surging while driving?
the fuel pressure regulator will make hard starting
easy to check, pull the vac hose off the regulator see if it has fuel in it
Thank you,
Tianna ?
where is the regulator located?
thanks again
I think the cost is about $30 and take only a few minutes to change
i can send a pic, email me tdebat@yahoo.com
">link titlehttp://www.leaseorsale.biz/truck/fuel regulator replacement.htm
Also, after I start, my "LOW FUEL" light comes on and the gauge reads on empty. Then once I start driving the gauge jumps to the right level and the light goes out. When I come to a stop, within seconds the light goes back on and the gauge drops to "E". And so on and so on....
Anything solutions would be great! Can this be a filter issue as well or might it be an electrical issue!
Thanks!!!!
If the pumps runs could there be another problem.
LAST TIME THE FUEL FILTER WAS CHANGED ? 50K OR MORE CHANGE IT NOW BEFORE YOUR FUEL PUMP DIES.
IF THATS NOT IT CHECK THE FUEL REGULATOR, UNDER THE HOOD SEE PIC.
http://www.leaseorsale.biz/truck/fuel%20regulator%20replacement.htm
I checked fuel regulator hose and there is no fuel in it.
one other thing I forgot to mention is the security light is on all the time now
After reading through ALOT of the messages here... I am quite surprised that there are so many people with fuel pump / filter related problems.
I have had the worst possible thing happen to me my 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 Denali. I had the Transmission Radiator BURST inside my Coolant Radiator and had to replace my "Dual" Radiator, Water pump, all my hoses, Coolant Storage...etc. After all that I still have a problem and was curious to know if anyone can help. I have taken to numerous dealerships and talked to everyone I know and no one seems to be able to pinpoint the problem.
So here it is:
When I start up my truck... and it gets warm (optimal temperature being about 200 on my little temperature gauge and I press the gas pedal to give it gas...it "sputters" for lack of a better term. It's more like a vibration though, that I only really feel in the pedal and in the seat. I do not feel it in the steering wheel. As I drive I can actually control this problem...I can lightly press the gas pedal and it will start acting like it is starving for fuel... BUT I can push through this by accelerating and it will be ok for about 30 seconds then it will start again. If I let off the gas pedal and lightly press it again...it will once more "sputter." It does this no matter what speed I am at and continually gets worse the longer I drive it. 30 miles is about all I am able to take it down the road before it starts acting insanely worse and I am scared that it is just going to die ...... WHILE I am driving it.
I have had the GMC dealership tell me there is nothing wrong with it. They told me "drive it till' it dies!" I can not believe they have taken this stand. I (although female and Definetly NOT a mechanic...KNOW that it is something with the FUEL) Whether it be the fuel pump or fuel filter (which is in my Fuel tank - stupidest thing ever) know one or both of these need to be replaced. The dealership totally disagrees and told me to get my tires checked (which I did - balanced, rotated and everything) Had my truck Tuned up, oil changed, fuids checked, Fuel injectors, throttle body cleaned, and with all the new parts it is practically BRAND NEW under the hood.
So any idea my fellow GMC people?? Any (and I do me ANY) help would be much appreciated as I am scared to death of breaking down while driving 50-70 mph and losing control of my truck. I live in DC and it's not fun on the beltway in rush hour traffic.
Thanks guys!
This may not have anything to do with your issue but you never know. Check your tranny fluid possibly get it flushed. When your radiator burst, you might have lost enough fluid to make this happen.
Hope this helps! Good luck...
http://www.leaseorsale.biz/truck/fuel%20regulator%20replacement.htm
good luck
What do you mean though...when you say that you "patched" the split? In the transmission line itself? I only ask because we DID have a hair line fracture in our Transmission last year that we took to the dealership and had them fix for about $1,200.00. Do you think that all this may be my Transmission about the Go out???
God I hope not, I just dropped $3,000.00 on this!
I appreciate the quick responses..thank you.
Any other ideas?? :sick:
link title
In a race it is all about time. You gotta do what you can to keep moving. That repair took me about 15 minutes once the fluid was cool enough to handle on my hands. Sorry to hear about you paying $1200 for the repair
Good luck with your vehicle
Hey, new here but anticipate I am going to start having allot of problems with my truck pretty soon. Ok, here is the deal, when I turn over my truck normally, it will keep turning over for quite a while, before it starts. If I turn the key on, without turning it over and let it set for 10 seconds, it turns over right away. I initially thought it was the pressure regulator, so I put a new one in. that did not correct the problem, so I put a new fuel filter in, still did not fix problem. My next guess was the fuel pump going bad, I had it tested, they said it was fine, but I don't exactly believe them. I also am noticing a purging sound at the regulator, and can feel it when I touch it when the truck is running.
If anyone has some suggestions, please let me know.
Thanks
I rigged up my hoist and tied rope to the tie downs in the bed, you have to disconnect a couple of wiring harnesses above the bumper, and the three screws in the filler neck. 8 bolts later the Sucker lifted right off and out of the way. You gotta make sure you rig it right cause it probably weighs 3-400 lbs (guessing).
new pump filter and relay cost me about $320. I had to use the double connector model ( the have a single connector model for $150. very easy swap, the car starts and the fuel gage works consistanly. I hope this post helps some one else out there.
JJ
I'm not certain of any special Candian requirements that might alter the canister used but it's basically a plastic canister with a brillo-pad inside. If you find that a U.S. version will work, I'll pick one up for you and ship it to you.
All the dutys were paid and the exchange rate as well
The 8 gauge wire that goes to the solenoid does not show any activity when i turn it over. What could be causing that? (starter is good) I even traced the wire all the way to the fuse box and checked for activity when i turned it over and nothing.
Can anyone give me any ideas?
thanks.
need to disconect battery set brake etc
you need to lift the box
loosen the far side but remove the gas tank side (6 bolts)
lift and prop with a sturdy beam so you dont have to remove the box completely
then you can remove the fuel pump
gotta cut and splice wires so pull out a nice length
make sure you have tape to cover it
only other thing is remember to wear gloves this proces can be very dirty
and when you start you supposed to turn key to ac and leave there so pump gas through the lines
ps th e full instructions are somewhere in this forum
I changed the filter and also put in a new fuel pump and the truck still won't start, just cranks over.
Any ideas on what my issue could be???
Fuel regulator ?
Look here
http://leaseorsale.biz/truck/fuel%20regulator%20replacement.htm