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Comments
$68.00 for new regulator, if not look for fuel leaks on hoses.
For the next person, when I was installing the back screw, I used needle nose pliers to start the first couple of threads.
would it be the fuel filter , fuel pump, it runs good
You'll also know that, with the seat down, a short person cannot easily see over the dash whereas, with the seat up, a tall person must live with their head brushing the inside of the roof. So the seat elevation system, while poorly and weakly designed, becomes more or less a necessity, especially where taller and shorter spouses share the vehicle as in my case.
You'll also know that the nylon driven gear at the end of the worm strut is molded right onto the end of the strut and cannot be welded as could steel to effect a repair. Moreover, you have absolutely no clue as to the extent of my frugality or willingness and experience in doing most everything myself, due both to financial necessity and the fact that I actually enjoy the challenge of improvisation as far as humanly possible.
You'll also know that the OEM strut probably cost less than $10 to manufacture in quantity but, if it were available as a service item, might actually retail for as much as $50. A significant amount for a small part but nevertheless a far cry from $330 plus that Government Motors wants.
So here's my challenge to you, Hotshot:---
If you think yourself so great that you can fabricate a serviceable and reliable replacement worm strut, using materials of your own choosing, I'll gladly pay you double the $50 for one; that's a $100 offer made publicly in an open forum. Moreover, if your prototype looks good and actually works, I'll pay you $100 each for two more of the same. Heck, given the need and potential demand for these struts, you might even be able to parlay your skills, if they exist, into a profitable sideline business supplying thousands of do-it-youselfers like me who are willing and able to handle the disassembly and reassembly labor.
So, unless you have some constructive advice as to how someone with a moderate amount of mechanical expertise might go about a practical but functional repair with a reasonable materials outlay and within a reasonable amount of time expended, I respectfully suggest that you either put up of shut up. Puerile and negative attacks such as yours do nothing to enhance the camaraderie that forums such as this attempt to bring to the community of real Grand Am lovers, even though most of us have been screwed by GM in one way or another.
For what it's worth, I do not have a shop manual for our 2000 GT even though we paid for one when first purchasing the car nine years ago. From the outset, the dealer delivered a damaged vehicle and subsequently refused to deliver on the manual; also refused to address the leaking intake manifold issue while the car was still under warranty. Appeals to GM went unheeded with responses that all issues were between customer and dealer and that GM fully endorses and supports all dealer decisions. Bottom line: cosmetic delivery damage has never been fixed, the shop manual was never delivered and we paid out of pocket to have the intake manifold issue repaired at a distant dealership. That's how I became "screwedbygm".
It's very true, however, that what one puts out in life usually comes back with interest, whether good or bad. In this case, the rogue dealership went bankrupt -- and rightly so -- while GM morphed into Government Motors. Sadly, GM's losses have now been placed firmly on the backs of the taxpayers. The saddest part is that the Grand Am was basically a very good car, reasonably reliable and a joy to drive. Nevertheless, I do not see myself ever purchasing from GM again, even if personal economic circumstances should improve, since they have clearly demonstrated (three times over) a total indifference towards purchasers (their customers) and a complete lack of integrity and corporate responsibility. We currently have almost 150,000 miles on our 2000 GT and plan on at least 50,000 more. Virtually all servicing and repairs is conducted by Yours Truly.
On the driver's seat height issue, as far as I've been able to determine, none of the Grand Am's came with full power seat options for either driver or passenger -- probably just as well. The GT's came with the problem (weak design) power height adjustment on the driver's seat and some, but apparently not all, SE's had a manual height adjustment. I've been touring junk yards looking to see what may be available from that source, thus far without success. On every GT I've found, the power height adjuster was already dead and I've yet to run across an SE with a manual adjuster. If and when I find a junker with a manual height adjuster, I'll take the entire driver's seat underframe with manual adjustment and swap it out for the defective powered underframe that seemingly cannot be economically fixed on the GT. There's no way I'll shell out another $300+ to those Greedy Mother------s (my other synonym for Government Motors) for the sake of a $10 part not made available.
When my Grand Am bites the dust, I'll give you my driver's seat. Deal?
Please help!
On a GA you need to remove the level plug on the transaxle while it's running and warmed up to see if the level is right. If a little fluid dribbles out then it's right. The plug is on the passengers side, near the front of the transaxle. It helps to take the right front wheel off for access, it needs to be relatively level while checking. Remember that it needs to be running the entire time the plug is out or you'll have a mess.
Most people find it's easiest to have it checked at a shop where it can be put on a lift.
The fill plug is on the drivers side, access is from the top of the transaxle. You will probably need to remove some of the intake plumbing (air filter box, etc) but I can't remember specifically what. I have changed the trans fluid myself on my 04, but it's been a while so I'm a little fuzzy on the fine details.
Problem: The "Brake" light at the top of the instrument cluster is always on.
Cause: Apparently, the parking brake light switch is out of adjustment.
More Information: Most of the time, while I'm driving, the Brake Light on the dash is on. Ocassionally, it will go off and stay off for a couple of miles, then come back on when I make a left turn. I'm pretty sure it's because the parking brake electrical switch is out of adjustment, or the parking brake cable is not returning all the way.
Does anyone know where this switch is located and how to get at it I assume it's hidden somewhere in the center console near the park brake lever. I'd be grateful for any help.
Dick
I guess I wouldn't mind the brake light being on, as I know that the car rolls freely, having pushed it with the brakes off. But each time the light goes on, it dis-engages my cruise control.... a big bummer when you're on the highway. Still looking for the location of the switch.
Thank You :mad:
IDLE CONTROL - car revs up and down constantly when in park or neutral - was told by a couple people its the IAC controller? how much? whats the part exactly called so i can look it up?
A/C PROBLEMS - A/C works fine when car is started then as i sit somewhere or at a light air gets humid and hot, and tempature gage goes up so i have to turn it off for a bit. only works perfect on highway or steady driving. ( i live in PHILLY
LIGHT PROBLEMS: front left headlight bulb is out. replaced the bulb, went out again, replaced socket and bulb, went out again. wires maybe? and my TAILLIGHTS go out once in a while ALWAYS ALONG WITH my interior dash lights and instrument panel lights. this happens once in a while, on and off. brakelights always work tho, also third brakelight is out but havent checked that bulb yet, could that be causing problems?
and if anybody is NEAR philly, and would help me get my car back into shape, of course i would pay you, we could help each other, whatever im a chill dude looking to avoid getting ripped off by pep boys. THANKS for looking ANY help on ANY of the problems is appreciated. also email me at DJREKER215@GMAIL.COM
2. When the A/C is on, are the cooling fans running full time? If not, then it will run hot at idle (or when no air is flowing over the radiator, like when stopped at a traffic light), and the A/C condensor won't get cooled. Most like the A/C system will shut down to protect itself under this condition. The A/C charge should also be checked.
3. Could be lots of things. Coincidence maybe on the headlight, or corroded contacts, poor connections. Interior and tail lights, ditto, but may also be a worn ignition switch.
My car WAS also idling high at a complete stop when in park. I had someone adjust the idle setting to low. Now it no longer idles high, but acceleration is jerky and very slow now, where before the idler adjustment, it accelerated just fine.
Can some one explain where the idle adjustment switch is so I can try to reset the idle adjustment. When the guy adjusted lower it didn't seem to require a lot of tools or effort. So it seems a simple enough adjustment.
My check engine light is also on now and a diagnostic indicated that my first o2 sensor in the bank 1 location is bad. I've been told that could be the cause of a high idle. I just want, in the meantime while I'm waiting on getting my o2 sensor, to be able to drive my vehicle the way it was driving before the idle adjustment. I feel as though I'm slowing all the traffice behind me.
I don't know what was done to it, but it doesn't sound like it was good.
burdawg is correct. The Powertrain Control Module constantly adjusts the Idle Air Control to maintain about 750 rpm when the Throttle Position Sensor indicates zero throttle. If, for instance, you shift from Drive to Park, the load on the engine will be less, and the engine will speed up. The Powertrain Control Module will see the increase in RPM, and then adjust the Idle Air Control to slow it back down. If your vehicle was idling at a higher RPM, it's very likely that the Idle Air Control Valve (a mechanical part) was sticking, and therefore not shutting down the idle air bypass enough to let the engine idle at the proper low speed. Whoever adjusted your idle may have somehow changed the point at which it sticks. It's also likely that when your engine is cold, it idles too slow, and when it warms up, it idles a little faster (If a sticky IAC is the problem). You could have a bad electrical connection between the Powertrain Control Module and the Idle Air Control.
A competent mechanic should be able to hook a diagnostic scanner to your vehicle and determine exactly what is the problem. She will be able to see the signal for the Idle Air Control move up and down, and see that it is not causing any effect on the engine speed. Good Luck. Wish we could completely solve the problem for you, but this is something that needs hands-on diagnostics.
Dickey-B
A service manual for your Pontiac will give you step by step diagnostics to solve your wiring problems. There really isn't any other way. This is another of those problems that needs to be diganosed in a "hands-on" fashion, but the service manual will give you a tremendous amount of help.
I read somewhere that if it breaks the engine will be ruined.Can anyone help?
THIS ALL STARTED WITH A BLOWN BACKUP LIGHT. I REPLACED IT, STILL IT DOES NOT GO ON ( LEFT DRIVER SIDE REAR ). I FOUND CORROSION ON THE CIRCUIT PLATE INSIDE THE LIGHT ASSY ON THE CIRCUIT PLATE AND DECIDED TO REPLACE IT WITH A ARCH AUTO 30 DOLLAR AFTER MARKET ONE WHICH I WAS TOLD IS COMPLETELY COMPATIBLE BUT MY PROBLEM SHOWED UP3 DAYS LATER.. WHAT A MISTAKE. I PUT THE BULBS IN, BULB FOR BULB, NOT USING EXCESSIVE PRESSURE JUST SNAPPING THEM IN ). BEFORE I KNEW IT,MY BATTERY WAS DRAINING OUT OVERNIGHT, MY DRLS WERE NOT WORKING, THE SWITCH WAS NOT WORKING, THE LEFT UPPER BRAKE LITE WAS OUT TOO. OMG.
I WAS LUCKY AND WENT TO A REPUTABLE ELECTRONICS AUTO TROUBLESHOOTER AND THEY FIXXED THE PLATE WHICH CAME FROM CHINA FOR 170 AND THEY COULD HAVE TAKEN ME TO THE RIVER. BOTTOM LINE, I PROBABLY SHOULD HAVE SPENT THE 90 BUCKS FOR A GM CIRCUIT PLATE. BE VERY CAREFUL WITH AFTER MARKET PARTS FOR THIS CAR. LESSON LEARNED
Thanks,
Ned