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Pontiac Grand Am Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • stacyblairstacyblair Member Posts: 2
  • ashleybzashleybz Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone!

    I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand Am GT. It has roughly 142,000 miles on it. My question is: I have to replace the fuel pump on it. I was wondering what the best brand is to put in it. I really do not want to sink a lot of money into it. Any suggestions would be great! Thanks!
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Get a GENUINE GM fuel pump. Even a used one from a salvage yard is better than the ones made in China. If you get one from a salvage yard, clean it up and make sure it isn't stuck before installing it.
    Second choice.... Buy a new one and MAKE SURE it wasn't made in Asia. US and Canada are OK, and there are several suppliers who make their parts in America.
  • nzfixitmannzfixitman Member Posts: 1
    I have been working on vehicles since I was old enough to pick up a wrench, some 40years now, so believe me when i say i understand your frustration. That being said your most likely culprit to your starting problems is the security system it is telling the computer someone is trying to steal the car and thus shutting off power to the coil packs by throwing a switch, then when you continue to try to start it it throws another one on the fuel relay. To get past this problem without a trip to the shop, first unplug your battery for 24hrs. then hook it back up this should reset the system. To help it not do this in the future, replace the ignition switch because either the switch or the key has become worn and the computer is not full recognizing that it is a legitimate key. I say replace the switch due to it could just be the key or it could also be the switch worn as well. By replacing the ignition switch you solve both potential problems in one shot.
  • robparson32robparson32 Member Posts: 1
    if you look below your tube for the air filter there is a red cap your trans cap only to fill it with but to check it is messy youll need 4 jack stands put the car up have a oil pan clean and slowly looslen your trans plug it should be 5/8 if it comes out strong your fine if not add some youll need to add some anyways sence some came out but its cheaper than a mechanic
  • larrybr45larrybr45 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 grand am gt, the trunk button on the door does not work. In the manual, it says in the trunk on the latch, you can slide the trunk release lockout to "off" and the button will work. Otherwise, only a key can open it. Problem is, on my latch I do not see the label like in the maintenance manual nor a switch to slide. There is a little round knob but that does not seem to do anything.

    Any suggestions?
  • whogliviewhoglivie Member Posts: 2
  • whogliviewhoglivie Member Posts: 2
    A week ago I noticed my Grand Am was running strangely. Only when the car is in park or stopped at a stop light do I notice that something seems to be running extremely hard, then it slows down, runs hard, slows down over and over again. I'm assuming that it continues while I'm driving the car, but I can't hear it. The transmission fluid was dirty, so I got it changed and also got the spark plugs and wires changed. This didn't help, and now I'm at a loss what to do. None of the engine lights are coming on, the car's temperature is normal, and the car accelerates just fine. I can also feel an abnormal amount of vibration on the floor, though I don't know if that's related. If anyone has experienced something similar or has any advice, I'd appreciate hearing from you.
  • jar410jar410 Member Posts: 3
    My car recently started stalling when I would stop at a stop sign or stop light, so I initially thought it was the battery, and went to get that replaced. A few days later it wouldn't start up right away, so I decided to take it to the dealership. The dealership said the fuel pump and fuel filter needed to be replaced, so I got them replaced and it drove fine for about a day, until it stalled out again going down a hill in my parking garage at work. I then had the car towed back to the shop and the mechanic said the first fuel pump was bad, so they had to replace it. It staled again that night turning a corner, so I had it towed to the shop again, and they said they needed to replace the ignition module, so I got that and the crank shaft position sensor replaced. I figured everything they needed to replace was replaced. Well I thought wrong, I took the car home, and then drove it to a friends house that night. On my way home, my car stalled once again at a stop light, and wouldn't start back up for about 45 min. Sorry for the long story, but this is very frustrating, and I just want to find out what the problem could possibly be, so I can stop wasting money on the same issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Personally, I think your problem is a defective dealership. You might try to find a lawyer to get your money back from then, and then take your vehicle to another dealer or service shop.
    I strongly recommend Vic Canever Chevrolet in Fenton, Michigan, or Veks Auto Repair, also in Fenton, Michigan.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    I second that opinion. Throwing parts at a problem rarely fixes it, but unfortunately that's all that many repair shops can do these days.
  • ksn95ksn95 Member Posts: 2
    I love cars , huge car enthusiast , well saying this , I own a 1999 Grand AM SE , which may need a new engine , I cannot drive more then two blocks without the temp meter going into the red , I'm not liking this . Where would you guys suggest getting a new engine ? This car has been in the family a very long time and with that being said , it needs a little bit of everything . Would you say it's worth it putting money into it or not ? I've had trouble getting simple parts for my vehical because of Pontiac not being manufactered anymore .
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Why does it need a new engine? I don't have any problem finding Pontiac parts.
  • grandestamgrandestam Member Posts: 1
    edited May 2012
    ALL the lights on my Dash are lit up!! I have had the Entire car serviced and everything on it fixed! It runs great. But I can't get the dash lights to go off permanently. The signals use to "work whenever they wanted to"... but I got that and the Hazards both fixed and they are great!!

    I was advised there is a Recall for that very problem with Pontiacs. I use to own a Grand Prix and Never had any such problems.

    Can Anyone offer any advice/pricing info/Solutions?? :confuse:

    Thank you in advance
  • ssohnbartssohnbart Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Grand Am. The repair shop (new to me) says the fluid cannot be checked, and needs to be replaced every 50k miles. The manual doesn't seem to read that way to me. The car has 137 thousand miles on it. Any info or experience? I am concerned about both proper care of the car and sizing up the reliability of the advice of this shop.

    Thanks for your help
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    The fluid can be checked, but not in the traditional way most people are aware of. There's no dipstick. To check the fluid you have to remove the level check plug on the passengers side of the transmission near the right side halfshaft. The fill plug is under the air filter box, it's easiest to remove the box for access. Many other models are like this now.
    Gm recommends 50K service intervals for severe duty, which covers most of us. Urban or city stop and go driving is considered severe duty.
  • pinky_88pinky_88 Member Posts: 1
    i just put a new alternator, water pump, tension arm and belt on my 04 grand am and anytime i hit the gas it squeaks/squeals. wondering if its too loose or too tight or could something else be wrong
  • gina35gina35 Member Posts: 8
    Maybe u just need to reset the computer alot of places like autozone, O'reileys will clear them for u and usually for free. They cleared. mine for free.
  • gina35gina35 Member Posts: 8
    I own a 99 Grand Am SE...I bought it 2 yrs ago from a friend of the family. The motor and transmission have already been replaced just one year before i bought it,but the fan quit working and they had run a jumper for the fan that i have to keep connected with a wire nut! Which is a total pain! But in any event the wire nut has come loose and i didnt realize it on more then one occasion once i realized and hooked the wire nut back on it would keep overheating and coolant just started pouring out.Later on my husband realized there is a bleeder for the coolant system(which i had never seen before) once the coolant system was bled it wouldnt overheat anymore. But beyond that the trunk latch does not work,my automatic door locks dont work and the drivers side window wont roll down,the volume on the radio is erratic and the odometer has stopped working also the passenger and driver side doors will sometimes lock for no apparent reason! My own car has locked me out...im beginning to think its possesed! It runs good for now but i will never buy another one!
  • gina35gina35 Member Posts: 8
    There are bleeders on the coolant system,have u bled them?
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Well, to be sure, you will never buy another one. (They don't make them anymore)
    But on a more serious note, it sounds like you may have a bad ground point somewhere. With this many intermittent problems, your next investment should probably be a service manual. The cheapest for your car is online manuals from AllDataDIY.com. A one year subscription will cost about $27.00. By contrast, the paper GM Service Manuals run between $125 and $200, depending on the model.

    Assuming you have an electric Trunk Latch, that is controlled by the Body Control Module. (Middle Connector, C2, pin A7)

    Automatic Door Locks are also controlled by the BCM. The signal comes from Connector C2, Pin A2, Circuit #682

    With a Shop Manual, you can troubleshoot your Driver's Window problem, but it's probably a worn-out motor. On most Grand Am's you can replace the motor only, without replacing the regulator. The motors can be found online on E-bay for $20 to $40. You will need a shop manual to look up the part number. The shop manual will also explain exactly how to remove the inner door panel, and replace the window motor.

    The radio volume on the Bose Radio is likely not repairable, but you can get a much more robust radio at any Mickey Shore store for under $175.

    You might try troubleshooting the Driver's Door Lock Switch Assembly to cure your Lockout problems... possibly a short in the wiring where the harness exits the door.

    If the car runs good, it's worth repairing the few minor problems you are having. After all, a car is supposed to be transportation, not a living room. Fix what you have to, live with the rest. Smile!
  • gina35gina35 Member Posts: 8
    Thanks so much for the advice! But i failed to mention n my last message was (back to the overheating problem) If it overheats once,we have to bleed the coolant system..even after we do that about 2 weeks later it has to be bled again,because it will start overheating and this is evenwith the wire nut in place? Something that may be contributing to it..but not sure my overflow bottle is pretty loose and the cap was melted on the top! i nmean we literally had to dig at it with a screwdriver to get it out.In any event we replace the cap but because the top of the overflow bottle is in such bad shape the cap wont stay on tight..tight enough to where it dont come off but the resevoir top is just stripped out!...Any ideas??
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    The coolant resorvoir and it's cap are a critical part of the cooling system. If the cap does not fit tightly, it cannot become pressurized and cause fluid to flow into the radiator when needed. I would suggest you get a new reservoir AND cap to replace the old one, and be sure you are using coolant.... not water. Coolant boils at a much higher temperature than water.
  • jkolodziejkolodzie Member Posts: 1
    are u talking about the bulb or the light assemble i would sugest removing the assemble it is just two thin metal bolts and look online for simlar bolt on paterns fro replacments
  • doofus54doofus54 Member Posts: 21
    i own a '93 grand am with the 2.3 engine and 3spd automatic with electric overdrive. it has been quite durable, but the overdrive began sticking in gear a while back and stalling the engine when stopping. i found the electrical connection and pulled the plug. no more problem, and no more overdrive. i would like to fix it, but i believe it is a mortal sin to take a car to a garage for repairs before trying myself. i have been told a sticky valve in the valve body is to blame. my question: is the valve body accessible with the pan removed? and will parts be needed, or should polishing the valve cylinder walls suffice?
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    No idea whether that is the problem, or if your fix will work. All my pontiacs are stick shift. My solution would be to install a manual tranny.
  • gina35gina35 Member Posts: 8
    edited October 2012
    Plz help! I have had numerous problems with my 99 grand am but i have put more time and more money in it and recently fixed my overheating problem when i purchased a new overflow bottle..and now sometimes it hesitates to start and sometimes wont start at all! Even when i know that there is gas in it,it acts like its out of gas and i have went and got a gas can put more gas in it and then it will turn over?? Someone had told me it was the fuel pump but i thought usually when fuel pumps go they just go...anyone know anything about this? Also whenever i do stop and get gas and the car is running the minute i take take off the gas cap it dies???
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    edited October 2012
    Sonnds like the typical clogged fuel filter. With the gas cap on, you may have just enough pressure in the tank from fumes to help the fuel pump push gas through a clogged up filter.
    Dick B
  • gkmidget71gkmidget71 Member Posts: 5
    Hello, I have 1992 pontiac grand am se 2.3 vin 3 engine. Has been a very reliable car up until a few months ago. I have a problem with the engine shutting off abruptly while driving down the road. It doesn't run rough before it does this it just shuts off. I can be going 30 mph or 60 mph and it will do this. The unusual thing is it starts right back up without any problem. I slide it into neutral turn the key to crank the engine and it starts right up and i put it back into drive and go right on without stopping. No check engine lights no rough running engine, nothing. Also the head lights stay on the whole time and dont dim at all, the blower fan and radio stay on without any issue. I have tried installing a few inexpensive parts but have not fixed the problem yet. The crank sensor, ignition module, and fuel pump relay have all been replaced. Any suggestions???????
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    edited October 2012
    Try the fuel filter next. It may be starving for fuel. remember, to run the engine needs:
    * fuel
    * ignition
    * timing
    Find out which is missing, and you will be on the right track to repair.

    I just happened to think.... I believe your engine uses throttle body injection. If so, You could have a defective or sticky Idle Air Control, which then would cause your idle to be too low for the engine to remain running. Does it quit only when your foot is off the throttle, as when you are coasting down, rather than accelerating?

    Next time it stalls, if you are going above 20 mph, try shifting into low gear, and stepping on the gas and see if it restarts. I don't know if this will work with your transmission, but it's worth a try.
  • gkmidget71gkmidget71 Member Posts: 5
    I thought about a fuel filter but it doesnt run rough it just shuts off abruptly like someone turns the key off. And it will start right back up immediately without any extended crank.

    It has 4 individual injectors so I guess they call that multi port injection.

    It happens when you are in the throttle driving down the road on the highway. It happens so fast you wouldnt even have time to try and change throttle position.

    My wife told me today after I made her drive it to the store that when it died today the ABS light came on just before it died. When she restarted the engine the light was no longer on. She said there wasnt any issue with the brakes and there never has been. Could there really be a correlation between the ABS and this engine dying problem?
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    OK, since you have individual injectors, your engine is port-fuel-injected, not TBI. Since it dies suddenly, there is probably no connection between your problem and the Idle Air Control Valve.
    The signal from the Wheel Tachometers, which furnish information to the ABS system, i believe are fed into the Powertrain Control Module. , at least that's the case on models after '96. I can't imagine though, that one of them losing signal would cause the PCM to shut down the engine, unless there is some sort of fail-safe mechanism that tries to protect the engine if a wheel siezes up. If that were the case, every time you lock up your brakes, the engine would stall . I'm assuming when the engine stalls, the instruments still work. If not, perhaps it could just be that some loose wire is causing the PCM to shut down, and it has to be restarted to reset the PCM. Anyway, good luck. This is going to be a hard problem to isolate.
  • gkmidget71gkmidget71 Member Posts: 5
    Do you have any idea where I can get an ABS Wiring diagram other than buying a chilton manual? I want to sell the car and dont want to buy a book when I wont need it.

    I'd like to see if there is any wiring connection between the ABS and the ignition or fuel injection that could kill the engine.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Your best bet is to find an independent garage and beg the owner to print off the wiring diagram you want from his online manual source. Next best bet is to subscribe to one of the online manual suppliers, like AllDataDIY.com. A one year subscription for any particular car is only $27.00... far cheaper than the GM supplied Shop manuals, and they have all the wiring diagrams in them. I've used AlldataDIY for all my vehicle repairs. They are top notch with diagrams... though the pictures they supply for assembly/disassembly are no better than the GM shop manuals.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    I just did some quick research in my 2002 Grand Am manual. It seems that the wheel sensors go into what is called "Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) ", which does the controlling of the brakes. The only connection that module has with the Powertrain Control Module is through the Serial Data buss. It doesn't look likely that anything happening to the Anti-lock system should cause the engine to stall. Of course, It's possible that just about any two wires that get shorted together COULD cause a stall, but that's far beyond anyone's ability to diagnose without having access to the vehicle.
  • gkmidget71gkmidget71 Member Posts: 5
    Well on a whim I took off the new fuel pump relay since it didnt fix the issue and put the old one back on there. I then put that new relay in the plce of the ABS relay since its the exact same relay. We drove the car out of town about 50 minutes. Stopped at our destination. Came back out and drove home and had no issues with it dying. Havent got to drive it any more than that but its a real good sign because before it would die sooner and more often than that. We'll see.
  • gkmidget71gkmidget71 Member Posts: 5
    Well I finally got to drive the car again last night and it stalled again. ABS relay didn fix it.
  • labrat68labrat68 Member Posts: 4
    Hello, I do not know if you fixed the problem yet? But the grandams have a sealed coolant system and if the overflow bottle or the cap is broken ( sometimes the o-ring is bad in the cap) but anyway, it will not circulate the coolant properly and it will overheat. The cooling fan system can also be a issue on allot of gm cars and vans, and water pump, thermostat issues, worn drive belts.
  • john623john623 Member Posts: 2
  • john623john623 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 Grand Am SE. The problem I have is with the knob that changes the temperature. i.e all the way left is cold, and all the way right is hot -- the middle knob. The way my luck is, when it was hot out, I could turn the knob all the way left for cold, and it would blow hot air. And now that it's winter, it stays cold. Sometimes, I can hear something in the dash move, like a damper or something, and it will blow hot air, but only for a few seconds before it will go back to cold (when the setting is on hot). Likewise in the summer, it would blow cold air momentarily, before switching to hot air again.

    In the summer, I lived with it, but now that it's winter it's becoming dangerous having a windshield that won't defrost.

    Any ideas? Thanks.
  • orogleorogle Member Posts: 10
    Last week I went to start the car and the dome light wasn't on, turning the key produced no dash lights and the car wouldn't start.
    put on the multimeter to test voltage on the battery and it was fully charged.
    got out of car went into house
    went back to garage, the door was locked so unlocked door and when I opened it the dome light was on, the dash lights lit when turned the key and it started.

    went to the store a few days later and left the car unlocked
    and when I tried to start the car once again no power.
    Got out of the car and locked and unlocked the door with the key because I had no idea of what to do and no power still.
    Turned the headlight switch and had headlights and then dash lights and it started. I was surprised when the headlights came on.
    no security light flashing either time, just no power.

    orogle
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Does anyone know where the switch that operates the dome light is in the door of a 04 Grand Am?
  • vega_grandamvega_grandam Member Posts: 2
  • vega_grandamvega_grandam Member Posts: 2
    My a/c works geat and so does my heating. My issue is that the air flow is stuck on face, foot, and i think dfrost for the front windsheild. how do i check it out and what am i looking for? all i have found is the a/c heater blend door accuator. does this not only control the cool and heat mixture?

    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/A-C-Heater-Blend-Door-Actuator/_/N-9pelb

    any guidance work be a great help. thank you.
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