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I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand Am GT. It has roughly 142,000 miles on it. My question is: I have to replace the fuel pump on it. I was wondering what the best brand is to put in it. I really do not want to sink a lot of money into it. Any suggestions would be great! Thanks!
Second choice.... Buy a new one and MAKE SURE it wasn't made in Asia. US and Canada are OK, and there are several suppliers who make their parts in America.
Any suggestions?
I strongly recommend Vic Canever Chevrolet in Fenton, Michigan, or Veks Auto Repair, also in Fenton, Michigan.
I was advised there is a Recall for that very problem with Pontiacs. I use to own a Grand Prix and Never had any such problems.
Can Anyone offer any advice/pricing info/Solutions?? :confuse:
Thank you in advance
Thanks for your help
Gm recommends 50K service intervals for severe duty, which covers most of us. Urban or city stop and go driving is considered severe duty.
But on a more serious note, it sounds like you may have a bad ground point somewhere. With this many intermittent problems, your next investment should probably be a service manual. The cheapest for your car is online manuals from AllDataDIY.com. A one year subscription will cost about $27.00. By contrast, the paper GM Service Manuals run between $125 and $200, depending on the model.
Assuming you have an electric Trunk Latch, that is controlled by the Body Control Module. (Middle Connector, C2, pin A7)
Automatic Door Locks are also controlled by the BCM. The signal comes from Connector C2, Pin A2, Circuit #682
With a Shop Manual, you can troubleshoot your Driver's Window problem, but it's probably a worn-out motor. On most Grand Am's you can replace the motor only, without replacing the regulator. The motors can be found online on E-bay for $20 to $40. You will need a shop manual to look up the part number. The shop manual will also explain exactly how to remove the inner door panel, and replace the window motor.
The radio volume on the Bose Radio is likely not repairable, but you can get a much more robust radio at any Mickey Shore store for under $175.
You might try troubleshooting the Driver's Door Lock Switch Assembly to cure your Lockout problems... possibly a short in the wiring where the harness exits the door.
If the car runs good, it's worth repairing the few minor problems you are having. After all, a car is supposed to be transportation, not a living room. Fix what you have to, live with the rest. Smile!
Dick B
* fuel
* ignition
* timing
Find out which is missing, and you will be on the right track to repair.
I just happened to think.... I believe your engine uses throttle body injection. If so, You could have a defective or sticky Idle Air Control, which then would cause your idle to be too low for the engine to remain running. Does it quit only when your foot is off the throttle, as when you are coasting down, rather than accelerating?
Next time it stalls, if you are going above 20 mph, try shifting into low gear, and stepping on the gas and see if it restarts. I don't know if this will work with your transmission, but it's worth a try.
It has 4 individual injectors so I guess they call that multi port injection.
It happens when you are in the throttle driving down the road on the highway. It happens so fast you wouldnt even have time to try and change throttle position.
My wife told me today after I made her drive it to the store that when it died today the ABS light came on just before it died. When she restarted the engine the light was no longer on. She said there wasnt any issue with the brakes and there never has been. Could there really be a correlation between the ABS and this engine dying problem?
The signal from the Wheel Tachometers, which furnish information to the ABS system, i believe are fed into the Powertrain Control Module. , at least that's the case on models after '96. I can't imagine though, that one of them losing signal would cause the PCM to shut down the engine, unless there is some sort of fail-safe mechanism that tries to protect the engine if a wheel siezes up. If that were the case, every time you lock up your brakes, the engine would stall . I'm assuming when the engine stalls, the instruments still work. If not, perhaps it could just be that some loose wire is causing the PCM to shut down, and it has to be restarted to reset the PCM. Anyway, good luck. This is going to be a hard problem to isolate.
I'd like to see if there is any wiring connection between the ABS and the ignition or fuel injection that could kill the engine.
In the summer, I lived with it, but now that it's winter it's becoming dangerous having a windshield that won't defrost.
Any ideas? Thanks.
put on the multimeter to test voltage on the battery and it was fully charged.
got out of car went into house
went back to garage, the door was locked so unlocked door and when I opened it the dome light was on, the dash lights lit when turned the key and it started.
went to the store a few days later and left the car unlocked
and when I tried to start the car once again no power.
Got out of the car and locked and unlocked the door with the key because I had no idea of what to do and no power still.
Turned the headlight switch and had headlights and then dash lights and it started. I was surprised when the headlights came on.
no security light flashing either time, just no power.
orogle
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/A-C-Heater-Blend-Door-Actuator/_/N-9pelb
any guidance work be a great help. thank you.