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Comments
Has anyone found this out?....for the Fits in specific?...
Thanks for any help...
(1) Hold down the tripmeter reset button;
(2) Turn the ignition to "ON";
(3) Keep holding the tripmeter button, something like 10 seconds;
(4) Turn the ignition to "OFF."
This should reset the MM by the time you turn the engine on again.
Please, everyone, jump in to correct me if I'm wrong.
One thing I can't save on are tires... Its going to cost me $500 with alignment but at least I saved myself $250 for the pad and cut-rotor job. I don't want to stray too much from the Dunlop stock. It gave me close to 60K miles of even wear. I'm going to try the Dunlop Signature tire. Supposedly, its quieter and sticks more than the SP 31.
The Fit is definitely a low cost maintenance car. I drove off my mechanic's shop with $10 less in my pocket.
My question: Is this inspection for B1 mandatory? I agree to pay for an oil change, but not an extra 164$ for 20-30 min of dealer work as inspection.
Thanks.
Rogerius.
IMHO, I would have the dealer just rotate the tires and change the oil. All the checks and inspects, you can do on your own.
The number 1 is to rotate tires.
The maintenance minder B is for below.
Replace engine oil*1 and oil filter
Inspect front and rear brakes
Check parking brake adjustment
Inspect tie rod ends, steering gear box, and boots
Inspect suspension components
Inspect driveshaft boots
Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS)
Inspect all fluid levels and condition of fluids
Inspect exhaust system#
Inspect fuel lines and connections#
Is possible the dealer to say the warranty is void because they didn't make all those checks and inspects? Did you find in the owner's manual to show those inspects are mandatory?
Thanks again.
I got the B schedule from Honda's owner link. Inspects and checks are what it is... inspects and checks. A lot of the fluids have level indicators... (brake, oil, tranny, power steering). IMHO, I am 99% sure your brake, power steering and tranny fluid levels are okay. :P 11K miles vs 59K miles? Your's is a baby.
Just wondering if you ever figured out the problem.
Any information would be much appreciated.
Thanks!
I've taken some pictures and am considering submitting them to Honda for review as this could be a potential problem to the safety system in the vehicle. Can anyone provide a link where I can get this fast-tracked?
Any one else notice a leaking problem?">
After googling for the symptoms, I did find 2 possible causes or preventive measures that generally applies to most cars - Manual oil tranny change and the limited-slip differential oil change.
Can someone confirm if these can be done on the Fit? I checked the manual last night and it stated to change the oil at 60K for the auto tranny but just check the oil level for the manual. It also doesn't have a service interval nor mentions the limited-slip differential oil.
Hopefully, its just my ears not used to the new tires. I got a little concerned because Edmund's long term Honda Fit already suffered a tranny issue.
I didn't think the Fit came with a limited-slip differential. I could be wrong, though.
A Jazz forum did show how to replace the M/T differential oil seal so maybe its in the front?
Either way, I found out I still have powertrain warranty. I'll schedule with the dealer to check. My warranty is 63K now not 60K. Honda increased it by 5% as a result of a settlement I guess.
My MM is on 5%. I am going on a trip so I called the dealer for service appointment. None available for a week. So, I asked "What is the wiggle room in going on the other side of 0%?? He said "No, you're supposed to bring it in at 15%." and started giving me the SCARE STORY, "Brakes must be checked, etc."
I got off the phone, got the manual, and it does not say that it must be taken in at 15% but you can go to 0%.
So, back on the phone to him and I told him he was wrong according to the manual. "Well, that's what I'm told." So, here's a major car manufacturer and their service people do not even know the manuals. We are supposed to believe that!
So, transfer to the Service Manager who immediately backed off. Yeah, 0% and to the minus, he said 1500 kilometers on the negative side of 0% was okay to keep the warranty in force. BIG DIFFERENCE!! (Of course, if my tranny drops out on the trip, they would deny the warranty.)
So, there's much more to the MM than this. It is there so the CONSUMER can't know exactly when the thing needs servicing. On my first run with it, it went from 15% to 0% a helluva lot faster than from 100% to 15%. So, they are keeping the CONSUMER off balance and also, as they tried with me, to get you in earlier and make more MONEY. Over the life of the car, a couple extra UNNECESSARY service checks means big dollars for them.
Beyond that, there are two other points.
1. I suspect they may be playing with the MM chips to see what CONSUMER reaction is. They monitor that at there service centers. How many complaints? Do CONSUMERS swallow the stories like they tried to feed me? Soon, if you are a steady customer, car after car with them, they may customize the MM chips to the CONSUMER. Keep in mind they will have all their data on your cars at their fingertips. A chip calling for quicker and more frequent service for the less wary customer and another with longer intervals for the more watchful and questioning customer. Just change the chip when it is in for servicing.
2. We have a lot of telcenters here where I live and most of the job is to manipulate the callers. Well, Honda employs the same tactics with their employees who are taking your call, like the guy with me today. The name of the game with all these corporations is to maximize revenue and manipulate CONSUMERS.
At the end of the day, the MM is just another ripoff.
A Jazz forum did show how to replace the M/T differential oil seal so maybe its in the front?
For the rear definitely no differential gears exist, since the Fit is front-wheel drive. I have not been able to find any reference made for the limited-slip diff on a Fit, so I am assuming that it is not in the front, either.
Since I figure it's not a threat to the car itself, nor to me, I'm waiting 'til I go in for my next oil change, which is coming up soon. I'll certainly post the results of my visit (I will be trying a different dealer, that's for sure).
I drove it for an hour on highways AND in town, try to run it the gear hopefully the grease will gradually melts into the stiff part (as far as I concern there aint much ppl have the spot on solution yet) but using the grease its used by alot of ppl out there to stop this problem only 50-60% cases successful!
I will keep it running around in next couple of days to see whats happening, cuz the noises seem lowered at some point but louder again. So i cant tell u whats next until then. Let me know if u have ur fixed.
Good luck! :shades:
I am planning on buying a fit sport auto in may and taking a road trip with it soon after. my questions are: how does the fit handle large road trips? is it harder on a new car to do a road trip right away (conflicting info online) and should i schedule an oil change in the middle (indiana to cali) the whole trip is going to be about 6000 miles.
+any advice is appreciated!
+any advice is appreciated!
I have a 2009 Fit Sport and while it's not the most comfortable car on long trips it's not terrible. Just the seats get to me after 3 hours of sitting in them non-stop.
But the car itself will have no problems and as long as you vary your speed you will be ok. You will likely go 8-10,000 miles so no need to schedule anything for only a 6,000K trip.
They gave me this brand new Jazz but i still prefer mine for some reasons. Anyhow i'll keep it til next year from now. They've also tried them grease method, it didnt work on mine. Dont worry they use these industrial grease which wont damage your car but it stinks and digusting, looks like someone's sick. :sick: Its a mystery still but hope they will have a good look at my car and find out whats wrong with it. Thanks for replying and good luck buddy! Have a nice summer btw :shades: ciao~
Location: Seattle, WA
My MM is on 5%. I am going on a trip so I called the dealer for service appointment. None available for a week. So, I asked "What is the wiggle room in going on the other side of 0%?? He said "No, you're supposed to bring it in at 15%." and started giving me the SCARE STORY, "Brakes must be checked, etc."
I got off the phone, got the manual, and it does not say that it must be taken in at 15% but you can go to 0%.
So, back on the phone to him and I told him he was wrong according to the manual. "Well, that's what I'm told." So, here's a major car manufacturer and their service people do not even know the manuals. We are supposed to believe that!
So, transfer to the Service Manager who immediately backed off. Yeah, 0% and to the minus, he said 1500 kilometers on the negative side of 0% was okay to keep the warranty in force. BIG DIFFERENCE!! (Of course, if my tranny drops out on the trip, they would deny the warranty.)
So, there's much more to the MM than this. It is there so the CONSUMER can't know exactly when the thing needs servicing. On my first run with it, it went from 15% to 0% a helluva lot faster than from 100% to 15%. So, they are keeping the CONSUMER off balance and also, as they tried with me, to get you in earlier and make more MONEY. Over the life of the car, a couple extra UNNECESSARY service checks means big dollars for them.
Beyond that, there are two other points.
1. I suspect they may be playing with the MM chips to see what CONSUMER reaction is. They monitor that at there service centers. How many complaints? Do CONSUMERS swallow the stories like they tried to feed me? Soon, if you are a steady customer, car after car with them, they may customize the MM chips to the CONSUMER. Keep in mind they will have all their data on your cars at their fingertips. A chip calling for quicker and more frequent service for the less wary customer and another with longer intervals for the more watchful and questioning customer. Just change the chip when it is in for servicing.
2. We have a lot of telcenters here where I live and most of the job is to manipulate the callers. Well, Honda employs the same tactics with their employees who are taking your call, like the guy with me today. The name of the game with all these corporations is to maximize revenue and manipulate CONSUMERS.
At the end of the day, the MM is just another ripoff.
A simple DIY will blow a hole in your conspiracy theory.
time to roll up the sleeves and get dirty. :P
I keep thinking every time I come in to the dealer that I would need new brakes but at the 84k dealer visit, they said I still had 60% of my front brakes and they don't recommend to change until 20% wear. I also said to change the radiator fluid but they said its rated at 105k intervals.
Looking at my Fit brochure, it has 100k mile or more tuneup interval. Definitely do not change anything aside from the fluids and filters unless the maintenance minder states so.
Thank you
(II) position.
2. Press the select/reset knob
repeatedly until the engine oil life
is displayed.
3. Press the select/reset knob for
about 10 seconds. The engine oil
life and the maintenance item
code(s) will blink.
4. Press the select/reset knob for
another 5 seconds. The
maintenance item code(s) will
disappear, and the engine oil life
will reset to ‘‘100.’’
Does anyone know what happened?
After the service, I checked the reservoir tank again (unscrewed the cap) and it looked below min level. I also opened the radiator cap area and I can not see any visible coolant.
Honda's manual states "The coolant level should be up to
the base of the filler neck. Add coolant if it is low."
A question for the same gen Fit owners - The radiator cap area is connected to the radiator via a hose. Am I still supposed to fill coolant up to the radiator cap level?
Thanks in advance.
I noticed last week that my cruise control and the sport feature doen't work on my fit. The lights for CC doesn't turn on at all. When I put the gear to
S, the sports feature doesn;t show up and it drive like in D mode. Anyone have such problem? The horn and emergency lights work. Thinking it might be a switch problem?
The Honda Fit’s 14" passenger side and 28” driver side replacement windshield wiper blades are very hard to find in the newer-style beam blades. The 12" rear is also very hard to find because it’s a special rear blade that fits the special rear arm.
After a ton of research, I found an aftermarket set-up that works: 'Trico NeoForm Beam Blades' on the front (yes, they have a 14" & 28”) and 'Trico Exact Fit Rear Integral Blade' for the rear (yes, it fits the special rear arm and looks like the original). All of the above come with step-by-step, illustrated removal and replacement instructions - easy install. Got the whole set-up online.