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Comments
Unlike more traditional designs which HEAT and dehumidify the airflow to the interior surface of the windshield these systems will often supply airflow to the windshield which is 20F COLDER than your temperature setpoint.
Most systems, when you use the defrost/defog/demist mode, full or partial, will supply HEATED airflow to the windshield on the assumption that the driver has a firm basis for the use of the defrost/defog/demist mode, "the damn windshield has condensation on the interior surface".
For some reason unknown at this time, NipponDenso, Denso US, seems to think it's satifactory to supply only COLD dehumidified airflow in this mode, even in the dead of winter when interior windshield fogging is most likely and therefore potentially the most dangerous to forward vision.
So, do NOT, NEVER use, continuously, either of the defrost/defog/demist modes if you have a Toyota or Lexus with the automatic climate control system.
In the above case you may have some sort of system malfunction wherein a small level of system airflow, COOL system airflow, is "leaking" to the interior windshield surface when the system is in normal operating, cooling, mode. Laying a thick towel over the windshield outlets is likely the easiest way to determine if that is the case since the airlow might be low/slow enough as to be undetectable via skin surface "feeling".
Does anyone kmow if you have the manual system and select defrost do we get warm/hot air to the windshield?
If your manual "setpoint" was on or near the cooling side when you switched to defrost you will get "COOL" defrost/defog/demist airflow. And in fairly short order if you didn't previously have the A/C engaged, it is now, and the airlow to the windshield will get even COOLER. But at least it will be dehumidified airflow....eventually....as soon as the evaporator vane surface temperature declines to the dewpoint of the incoming (fresh) airflow and only if the blower speed it low enough for the incoming airflow to be cooled to dewpoint....
But what if the dewpoint of the incoming airflow is so low the A/C is ineffective at dehumidification....??
DENSO: "Gee, I guess we didn't think of that...but we do disable the A/C if the OAT is below 35F...."
The manual doesn't tell you this, at least the last Camry manual I've seen, but when you need to defog/demist the interior surface of the windshield turn the heating and blower level all the way up and then switch to the defrost/defog/demist mode.
If that happens to be overkill then so be it, no harm, no foul, you can now re-adjust, moderate, the effects at will.
The RX300 series has a c-best option, two actually, wherein the "link" coupling the operation of the A/C to defrost/defog/demist mode can be severed. The second on allows you to indefinitely disable the A/C until the next time you turn it on yourself using the button.
Prior to discovering the c-best options I simply disconnected the A/C compressor clutch wire during the winter months.
In my 1992 LS400 I installed a switch that increased the resistance of the interior air temperature sensor. Before I activated the defrost/defog/demist mode I flipped the switch to make the climate control ECU think the cabin was cold, very COLD, and that resulted in lots of HEAT and high blower speed as I switched modes.
Later versions, my 2001 RX300, have added another level of digital signal processing that doesn't allow sudden/quick changes in certain sensor output readings. But then the RX has a "twist" dial to set the temperature so I just give it a quick clockwise spin.
Jimmy Drew :mad:
Jimmy Drew
Here's the link (Lir posted an update a short while ago):
RAV4 Throttle Lag
Is there an easy solution to this problem? My dealer is not very helpful and wants to charge me for "diagnoising" the problem. Am I expecting too much from them, or is the problem that complicated?
My alarm would go on after disarming, and I would turn it of by putting my key on "on" position (for accessories) then hit the reset button for alarm at the bottom. The second time around, this did not work, I called the dealership and he told me to hold the button while putting the key to ignition on. I took it to the dealership coz I can't take it anymore, they changed the alarm brain. Seems like toyota has problems with the alarm coz my co-worker had the same problem.
I somehow feel it is temperature related. It happens always when the car is hot. :confuse:
Cabin temperature and therefore time.....
For improved FE (again!) some of the latest Toyota/Lexus models are now using a variable displacement A/C refrigerant compressor. I wonder if that is what some of you are hearing, calling a droning noise.
The system uses a swash plate technique to vary the displacement. Unlike older models wherein the compressor clutch was either engaged or not, the new compressor's clutch will remain engaged at all times the A/C is enabled. Its "internals" will be adjusted to pump a lower level of refrigerant, probably especially noticeable once the cabin has cooled to or near your setpoint, manual or automatic system.
The noise of that slow pumping displacement, in combination with a relatively fast/high engine RPM would likely be a very noticeable anomaly for those of us having long ago adjusted/adapted to the noise of the old on/off compressor.
Next time you hear the droning reach over and turn off the A/C and see if it doesn't stop.
I didn't notice the noise when the speed is over 50mph though. Like ihammer mentioned, I notice it only when the car was driven earlier. It never happens when I start it early morning going to work.
BTW, my car is V6 sport 2wd. I do enjoy it other than that.
Please keep us posted on what luck you have with replacing the fuel tube assembly, I plan on going back to the dealership but if I have a solution for the problem I might actually get somewhere with them. I really enjoy driving the RAV so I’m hoping this issue can get resolved.
The fact that your dealership told you that it was indeed the fuel pump and that there was nothing wrong with it other than a possible design error is apalling. Possible design error??? If they admit it is an error they better come up with a fix for it or they may end up having to buy all the droning 2006 RAV4s back. I love driving the car, but not enough to put up with the droning noise (that shouldn't be there in a new car - or even an old one!) every time I drive it.
I will definitely keep you all posted as to what happens when they replace the fuel tube assembly. I've been out of town for the past 3 days so don't have any news about that yet. I am going to call the dealership tomorrow to see if they have any news as to when the part might be coming in.
When driving with the window open at 60 MPH i have to turn the volume up past 40 to hear any sound from the radio/cd player. Is this correct? Any help would be appreciated.
Pete