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Talking about the vibration/ noise in RAV-4, here is a recent "guess" - you may want to look at it. (My 2006 V-6 4x4 does not have this problem.)
Some of the 2006-2007 RAV-4s with the V-6 engines develop noise/ vibration problem while being driven in traffic. I was told that it can be traced back to the suspension of the exhaust/muffler system. The system can generate a "resonance" (vibration) as a summary result from engine rpm, transmission rpm and fuel pump rpm. I was told that if you stiffen the muffler by introducing an additional suspension point above the mufler (anchor point) the noise and vibration ceases (the muffler-exhaust assembly can not resonate because the harmonics will be out of sinc).
I wrote to Toyota about it - they turned me away, because they do not accept technology suggestions from outsiders. Do you think this could be one of solutions for the noise and vibration discussed above? Could you please resubmit my suggestion to Toyota - you being one of their former employees - and tell them, if this is the right solution to the problem, I do not want any reward for it? If it works, it would be a great service for both, the loyal Toyota fans, and for the company, too. (I did not notice similar problems with our 4Runner V-8 4x4).
Keep on writing! We all learn from you! =Andrew17
NOT...!
In years past I have seen weights suspended near the rear of the tranny to remove vibration resonance. I suppose anything that stiffens the resinating structure would help.
The vibration is noticable when the temperature is above 50F in sunny weather and the air conditioner OFF.
I thought you might be interested to hear an update on the knocking noise I had reported a few weeks back.
The noise got progressively worse and my husband took it to the local Toyota place yesterday, and once again, a service mechanic drove with him and this time absolutely and unequivocally heard the knocking noise, exclaiming "well if they can't find the cause of THAT then there's a problem!"
To cut a long story short, the noise is gone, and apparently it was a loose nut on the rear toe causing the toe rod (or whatever it is they call it) to knock against the exhaust system (I think????). The back left wheel was also badly out of alignment. I'm no mechanic but it seems to me that this noise started when I first got my tyres rotated, but the shop insists that the loose nut would have nothing to do with the tire rotation.
In any case, the knocking is GONE and finally, I'm a happy camper.
Thanks for all your help.
Julie
As you did in this case, with a car or anything else mechanical, *always* trust your ears. You hear a non-normal sound, it is something to hunt down. Usually it is something easier to find!
Cheers,
Greg
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/local_links/?catid=345&sort=n&page=1&pp=30- &keyid=0
While driving (slow and fast) there is no noise even if the road is bumpy. But I hear similar sound while shifting gear from D - N - D (just did for testing).
I checked under the car, the muffler seems to be tightly fit.
Do I have the tie rod issue or the fuel pump resistor issue ? The gas level is below 1/4 at this time.
Can anyone suggest please. I will make an urgent appointment with Toyota anyway but want to hear from the forum.
:mad:
Thanks
I checked online and there is a cyber coupon for my dealer that offers automatic transmission service (drain and refill trans fluid, type IV transmission fluid additional) for $39.95.
My dealer tells me that I can't use that because my vehicle requires a Type P (or maybe it was a Type T) fluid, which he claims is the same as a type IV, and basically costs $85 just for the fluid, so the entire cost is $161.
The dealer tells me that I can't just use the dextron or else after 2 blocks the vehicle will stop running and the transmission will be burned up. He said that the newer RAV4s (2006 and newer) don't even have a dipstick because too many people were topping off the trans fluid with the wrong type of fluid.
Am I being told the truth? Is this $161 that I need to spend? I am leaning towards spending it.
That sounds good to me. Is the type IV necessary? How much more should that be. What's the difference?
More observations:
I dont hear any noise when I start the car in mornings.. temp. around 55F. But when the car is parked in hot Sun and temp goes upto 80F, I started the car during lunch.. and heard the noise again. It remained there until night. I hear it everytime I shift from N to D (auto transmission but was just testing) and also while starting from a complete halt.
Guys, please help me out... this discussion can help others too. :confuse:
Guys, if you own 2006/2007 RAV4, please be aware of this.
Thanks.
This is exactly what I found in my 2006 RAV4 limited.
Toyota must do something about it.
Fluid type: Automatic Transmission Fluid Type T-IV.
A note below says use only Toyota Genuine ATF Type T-IV (ATF JWS3309 or NWS6500).
It also says: Generally, it is necessary to change automatic transmission fluid only if your vehicle is ddriven under one of the Special Operating Conditions listed in you "Scheduled Maintenance Guide."
I suggest you try another Toyota service department, if there is one nearby.
Last time I called the dealer and asked them what they typically replace the factory tires with for the RAV4 and they told me a "cooper" tire.
bpeebles, "Dodge Dakota Owners - Meet the Members" #344, 5 Nov 2006 7:06 pm
The bearing for the tip, seats into the center of the crankshaft, of the transaxle input drive shaft.
I replaced them at 31k miles with Yokohama Geolandars, and I liked them for 40k miles. Might possibly go back to them in the future.
Got Uniroyal Laredos on now, and they're fine so far (<10k miles).
I expect the dealer would just try to sell you what they carry, whether it is an especially good choice of not.
Like I said tho, my experience with them was good,
and I'd have them again, especially at the
Tire Rack prices.
Don't know if it matters, but I use the
narrower standard tire size, 215x70/16.
-ss4
"Take it to the dealer and have them replace the lower steering shaft part #45260-42090. The service manager is a good friend of mine, He had the shop foreman check it out for me, He noticed the knock instantly. His recommendation was to replace the lower steering shaft apparently this was the fix for the highlander and preius and even some of the Lexus models. He looked to see if there was a TSB on this but could'nt find one. TSB's on other models recommend replacing lower shafts."
This appears to be a recognized problem. I don't have it thankgoodness.
Flo
The dealer states there is no overflow hose but can't explain why the cap/flange is designed with an outlet.
If you own an '06 or '07 Rav4, do you see the same setup?
Seems a bit chessy.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
RE: Leather Seat and Dogs
I have a non Toyota with leather seats and have had 2 dogs. The seats are perfect for a dog. You can wipe them clean with a leather cleaner or plain water. Unfortunately, my other car is a RAV4 with a cloth interior. You can't believe the dog hairs in the car. I have to use a shop vac on the seats followed by a lint remover( the kind you use for suit jackets) to get rid of everything. Also, I am continually cleaning little stain off my gray interior. I may do an after market leather seat job on this car if it works out.
I'm beginning to suspect there are some unusual stresses within the RAV4 windshield design that make it more vulnerable to damage.
Compared to how my Mercedes windshield has absorbed some major rock hits, I would put forth there is a difference in the quality of the glass between Japanese made cars and not. The glass appears to be thinner and more prone to stress fractures as what you are talking about here, a small impact resulting in a running crack in the glass. What should happen is more of a star impact crater, as the plastic and other material layers in the front windshield help to prevent (normally) cracking.
Also do not allow people to fix your windshield with the various fillers on the market. They expand and contract and make things worse. Better to leave craters alone and live with them, and if the windshield cracks, replace it.
I would approach Toyota armed with this and other info, such as a list of other owners with cracked windshields, and say how come other cars get crater damage when a rock hits and mine cracks like ordinary window glass?