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Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II

1192022242597

Comments

  • c2soxc2sox Member Posts: 19
    I saw a Disco II in Thousand Oaks Land Rover with head rest mounted screens. The install was very clean, it could have come from the factory and you wouldn't have known. They installed the DVD player in the glove compartment, this made more sense to me (easy access). Not sure what the cost was, but it looked damn good. My cousin had one on his Suburban (w/ a 13" screen) and his toddler and the rest of his boys just abosolutely loved it, cost was about $2500 (13" screen drove the price up). Trouble is now my daughter is asking for one too! :)

    Let us know what you decided to do and good luck on your search.
  • kwamedogkwamedog Member Posts: 35
    Its nice to know that somebody out there is listening and understands. As for the turn signal, the dealer states that they could not reproduce the problem. I am unsure if that is a good thing or a bad thing. Anyway, we are totally thrilled with the vehicle (and all of her quirks). We hope to have her for quite some time so its a good thing we like her so much.
  • kwamedogkwamedog Member Posts: 35
    We purchased our 98 Disco about a month ago. We have one year and 25,000 miles left on the original warranty and then 1 year 12,000 mile warranty that was added as part of certification. The wife drives the Rover and will put 11 or 12,000 miles on her per year. The big question is whether or not it is worth buying an extended warranty for $2100. It would cover the vehicle for 6 years from the date we purchase it or 100,000 miles on the odometer, whatever comes first. We are pretty bent on buying the warranty but wanted to hear what others have to say on the subject. Are we throwing our money away? Do you think that we will get our monies worth? Given the quirkiness that we have experienced thus far something tells me that it is a good move.
  • kbowenkbowen Member Posts: 58
    I'm taking your advise. See your response #1009. I have a question, though. Since I change my own oil, in buying the filters I see there are both long and short ones for the 2001 DII, both the same price. What is the difference, if any, other than perhaps more capacity in the long model. If you use the long model, do you need to add a little more oil, or visa versa since my truck came equipped with the long. And what about the drain plug washer. I see none for sale for the DII, but plenty for the DI and they are copper; mine is steel. Do I need to replace it like I read about with the DI's. Thanks for your advise.
  • expert1expert1 Member Posts: 133
    I used a Fram PH16 (short) last time on my DII. The good thing about that was the fact that you only have to add 6 quarts of oil instead of trying to figure out how much is .1 of a quart.
    Kwamedog: I would probably buy the warranty. There must of been some reason why they replaced 85% of the parts on the DI to bring out the DII.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    It may be the short filters are fitted to trucks where there's an obstruction? I don't know, as my DI has nothing there to interfere. My thinking about the long filter is MORE filter area. That will produce less resistance to oil passing thru the element, and reduce the likelihood of the popoff valve opening. When it gets nasty cold here I use 5/50w Syntec that flows nicely, but I still don't want to open that popoff and push all that crud thru my engine again. Waiting till it heats up before revving will help stop that... using more filter area helps too. FWIW, when it's below zero I never let her get over 2k rpms until she's fully up to temp.

    If I were you I wouldn't trust that oil level dipstick too much... they're notorious for being set differently between trucks (at least in the DI). If you have a friend with another, try his and see what the reading is. I tend to run it right up to the FULL mark all the time... but too much is a bad thing too. If you use a long filter it might take an extra 1/2 or 1/3 quart... not much difference.

    Note: it's IMPORTANT to fill the new filter with oil before you mount it. When dry filters were fitted to some DIs, they would lose their oil pump prime, and it wouldn't suck oil from the crankcase. The remedy was to remove the oil filter pump and pack it with vaseline.

    Drain plug washers: If you've got a steel washer you ought to be fine. Soft copper is great for filling gaps and preventing leaks but it anneals with first use so it has to be replaced. Newer, tighter tolerances on the new engines ought to do away with this need for copper seals.

    When you change your diff/transfer case fluids, you'll see a screwy square indent head in the plugs... don't buy the Rover tool, use your 1/2" drive socket wrench w/o a socket. Perfect fit. Need a drain plug wrench? Use the tire iron... both are 1-1/8"

    Good luck! -Bob
  • agh15agh15 Member Posts: 90
    In the October issue of car and driver it says that the discovery SE and HSE model lines will get new grilles and roof racks, and the HSE model gets the navigation system and dvd player as tincup47 and 02discovery already sayed.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    I don't want to stir a hornet's nest, but I've done some reading and there are a couple filters I'll use on the Rover. Purolator Premium Plus (or whatever the heck they call it), Napa and WIX. Many filters are actually the same with different graphics. I stopped using Fram because it uses cardboard for internal parts where other brands use steel. I also like the popoff (anti-drainback) valve design on these filters... they tend to hold the oil in the engine better, which reduces lifter noise on cold starts.


    Take a look at this link... the gent had to retract a bunch of his statements due to threat of litigation by the filter manufacturers, but there's still some good info here.


    http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html


    Regards, -Bob

  • kbowenkbowen Member Posts: 58
    WOW! Didn't realize you could write a book about oil filters. Thought they were pretty much like the proverbial mousetrap-pretty much straight forward and not much room for improvement. Just goes to show.

    Anyway, the K&N filter was not included in the study. British Atlantic carries it, but it costs about twice as much as it's competitors, including the Land Rover filter. Have you had any experience with it. They claim to have some sort of anti-drainback valve that prevents dry starting. thanks again
  • kemmonskemmons Member Posts: 29
    Hi everybody-

    ADVICE NEEDED:
    A while back, I posted a message re: Lizzie's no-start, and interior lights and exterior lights out since. The tech at the dealer says it's due to corrosion in the fog light assembly and how the different lights on her have the same power source/ground. Everything from front fog lights, rear fogs, side markers, instrument panel, and shifter lights. Because corrosion isn't a covered issue on my warranty obviously, this is going to cost $540.00. Is there a less expensive way around this? That price doesn't include replacing all of the bulbs. At least $50 a pop there.

    DEALER INFO
    The dealer in Farmington Hills, MI is going through some major growing pains building a bigger facility and trying to accomodate BMW, but in 6 mo. to a year, BMW will be in their own facility down the road and LR will have the place back to themselves. AMEN. They have rotated a number of service guides through the place and have since improved wait time immensely. It used to take 3-4 wks. to get an appt., but now is quite less. My only concern is that it appears that whenever they get a good service guide, they transfer him to BMW. This makes it difficult to establish a rapport.

    BATTLE OF THE BRITS CAR SHOW
    This Sunday, Sept. 9, in Sterling Heights, MI. One of Michigan's largest displays of classic British cars and cycles. Over 140 awards presented. Usual good turnout of Series vehicles. Contact Info:
    Sue Snyder, ph. 810-979-4875 or email snydley@home.com , www.detroittriumph.org
    The event is mentioned in the GLRA (Great Lakes Rover Assoc.), flyer this summer. Anybody going?

    Glad to see so many positive articles.
    I almost forgot to mention the 01 DII that I've had as a loaner this week. SE, very nice, good opportunity to wet our whistle on the next LR we will own. I like some of the differences between the two, some I don't care for. Good, solid truck though. I can't wait to get mine back.

    Take care all, and thanks for any help offered.

    Kim
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    The K&N is a good filter... but for $5 you get a WIX with the nitrile rubber seal in the drainback valve... same deal. So change the oil 2x as often and spend the same amount! :)
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    There are a million grounds to your electrical system, and corrosion will definitely make the lights act up. Can you track the ground wires (even the engine ground strap) and make sure they're in good condition?

    Also about the bulbs.... the bumper marker lights, side markers, etc. on my Disco are all the same small bulbs... and for $10 I bought a BAG of them so I can replace them at my leisure.

    I wonder if there's a better dealer close by???
  • kbowenkbowen Member Posts: 58
    I wonder how the corrosion got into the fog light assembly in the first place. These are supposed to be at least weather resistant. Perhaps the problem is with a seal or even some defect. If that is the case, your warranty may cover it since the corrosion was caused by a defective or failed part. Certainly worth it to look into.
  • 02discovery02discovery Member Posts: 47
    Tincup, do you have any idea what the new grille and roof rack are going to look like on the 2002 Discovery's? Is there somewhere on the web where we can see a 2002 Discovery?
    Thanks,
    Regards,
    02
  • qualityguyqualityguy Member Posts: 101
    I've heard the rumor - actually read it in German and Russian press, that Ford, being not able to fight out quality issues and high production costs with quite militant British trade unions wants to move production of (at least some) Land Rovers to new state of the art factory they build near S. Petersburg, Russia. The factory was originally supposed to build Focuses for local market, but allegedly can handly any Ford product, building it "en masse". The logic is, if Russian worker can handle building space ships for $100-300 a month, he can definitely handle building a car... Does anybody know anything about it - like news from Ford?
  • hammackhammack Member Posts: 2
    I have been working with my local dealer to purchase an 2001 SE7. I have driven a 2001 one without the ACE Active Corning Enhancement, which seems stable and recieves little road noise from the 16" Goodyear tires. They also let me drive a 1999 model SE with the PPK Performance Package with the ACE systems and 18" Goodyear tires original to the vehicle. The handling was noticibly stable, however the road noise from the tires was notibly irritating, and I would almost cite the ride as slightly more firm than without the Performance Package. Has anyone reckoned with the road noise coming from the 18" tires? Can I expect a 2001 model SE7 with 18" tires to have more road noise than the 16" tires?? The dealer says it is because of the design of the 18" tires - 'low profile' 'stiffer sidewall' ect.

    Please advise ----
  • scottkopscottkop Member Posts: 5
    Thinking about joining the LR fold (so be gentle!) and here's the Disco that I'm looking at:

    '96 Disco SD
    51K Miles
    Valves and Head gasket just replaced
    New Exhaust
    1 Owner - A guy I work with.
    ARB bumper w/ Warn winch
    New Tires
    All Records - Service mostly @ LR dealership
    $14.5K
    Overall great condition

    How's this sound? Any other problem areas to look for???

    Thanks!
    Scott
  • expert1expert1 Member Posts: 133
    Why valves, exhaust and head gasket at 51K? Did you friend overheat this motor? Did you also ask him about oil consumption?
  • scottkopscottkop Member Posts: 5
    Expert -

    It my understanding that '96's are noted for having a problem with the exhaust valves sticking due to carbon. So before his warranty ran out, he had the dealer take care of this. They did the head gasket while they were in there.

    -Scott
  • bgpopsbgpops Member Posts: 1
    i need a new car, i havnet been able to find anything i like. then i came across the range rovers. my price range is from $10-$13,000 and mostly i have seen the 92 and 93's in this range. some with less than 100k miles. but now after reading all the comments here, i dont think i would want one. what all would i have to buy/repair on a car like this? i really like them, they are very nice, but i dont want it in the shop every week. someone please help
  • dealmkrjjddealmkrjjd Member Posts: 32
    I purchased a 2000 Disco without the performance package. I test drove both and thought that the non-ACE had a softer ride. I think ACE is great for people who are comming from a car and are not used to the body roll of a truck. I had an Explorer(what a piece of *@#%) before the Disco, so I was used to this and preferred a slightly smoother ride for the pot holes here in Chicago. That being said, I don't think you can go wrong with either you just have to decide if ACE is worth the extra $$$. By the way, I have 25,000 problem free miles!!
  • c2soxc2sox Member Posts: 19
    I have the non ACE version and frankly I've been extermely happy with the way she handles. I don't notice that much body roll, I think that people just have too keep in mind that these are trucks that sit quite high. With as much weight that they have you really can't expect to whip these babies around. Like I always said if you want a truck to handle like a car just buy a darn car! These trucks aren't for everybody, you have to realize what your buying and appreciate it for what it's capable of doing.

    I personally haven't driven an ACE version, so I can't really comment too much on how it handles. This is my first Rover and I thought I'd play it safe by not buying all the gadgets. I thought I'd keep it simple this time around. I have no regrets whatsover over my choice, she handles like a dream and she puts a smile on my face everytime I take her out.

    And that's what really matters! :)
  • expert1expert1 Member Posts: 133
    I can't agree with you more. My DII is also non-ACE and I love it. We have some very winding roads where I live and this car takes these curves flat, without any discernable body roll, at speeds that I cruise at. Any faster and my wife is yelling at me to slow down. I too have had other SUVs, Suburban and a Trooper, and this rig handles like a sports car compared to them. $3000 is alot to spend on more complexities. The service of my rig is straight forward. With plenty of hood and undercarriage clearance, which makes the job that more easy. The only thing that I can see costing more comparing the DII to other SUVs is the oil capacity. The filter, Fram PH16, is the same one as I use on my Voyager and one extra quart of oil won't break me. The mileage, 15 ave., beats my Burb at 10 and is only a couple of mpgs less that my old 4 cyl. Trooper. I tried the sport mode last night, with the tranny in 3rd, and this truck screams. We have a hill by our cabin that the kids use to sled etc. in the winter. It is funny to see the Explorers, Tahoes, etc. try to get up it to the area in the snow. A Landrover, with two grandparents and their grandchildren, motored right up this hill without a hitch. That was what really sold me.
  • jackickjackick Member Posts: 12
    Anyone up for settling a bet? My husband insists that we shouldn't use the sport mode on our 2000 Disco II because it sucks the gas down too fast. I am talking about highway driving, not city, and I have noticed only a verrrrry slight impact on the mileage (like .1 mile per gallon difference) and I feel that the engine 'likes' to be driven on sport. Nanuq, I know you use 3 and switch to D after you hit a certain speed and I have read that you feel you get better performance this way. Is the sport mode similar to that? Also, has anyone out there used an aftermarket trailer light kit that works? Our dealer wants $160 for the kit and $60 for the install. My husband has installed these light kits on his two prior American SUVs but is unable to find any kits on the market that we can purchase ourselves. Any suggestions appreciated.
  • expert1expert1 Member Posts: 133
    It isn't the mode of the transmission that sucks the gas, it is the trottle position. Just because the tranny remains in its respective gear a little longer shouldn't affect gas mileage too much. Leaving the tranny in regular mode and mashing the pedal will indeed affect mileage. I have been told on this forum that the computer will adjust to your particular driving mode and make the necessary changes to the power and fuel economy curves. These rigs are certainly smarter than me. Remember, a heavy foot in either mode will affect the mileage.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Engines are designed to produce wide, flat power curves but there are points where they're most efficient. It seems the 4.0 Rover engine likes a few more RPMs than you'd expect, and seems to thrive on NOT being driven like a little old lady from Pasadena. When the engine hits its "sweet spot" everything is working at optimum and you can often use less throttle to get the same speed... it's burning its fuel at peak efficiency (for its design) and you're getting the most performance possible per gallon. The ECU does indeed "learn" this over time and I find my mileage is not much different at all than before I started using '3' and I've got lots more power.

    Another example is on the freeway: my truck feels sluggish at 55mph but at 70mph she's like a long-tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs.

    I think "sport" mode only alters the shift points, letting it rev higher before it shifts. It may also allow it to kick down a gear sooner when you mash the pedal. Both will keep the engine higher in the powerband to enhance performance. At steady-state freeway speed you should have no difference between "sport" and regular mode... both should lock up the trans into its overdrive (no slippage) and you're cruising. I shouldn't think "sport" mode would prevent you going into the final "overdrive".

    In the DI there's a plug in the floor, aft end, offside where you attach the trailer wiring harness. If you can find one then installation should be a snap. Unfortunately... Rover seems to have a death grip on many aftermarket parts. How about U-Haul? JC Whitney?

    Regards, -Bob
  • expert1expert1 Member Posts: 133
    I am under the impression that this same plug end is now located in the rear passengers side tail light housing on the DIIs. I checked with U-Haul and they pretty much threw up their hands and shook their heads NO. The problem with most cars now days is the fact that to save money they have down-sized their wiring to the back end of all vehicles. Thus, the added load of electric brakes, tail-lights and markers is too much for the electrical system. It heats these smaller wires and eventually blows the protective fuses. In the old days all you had to do is tap into the brake and tail light wires and you were trailering. Now you need more extensive solid state devices, larger wires etc., turning a 5 minute $2.00 job into a 2 hour, $150.00 job. The cheapest I have found is through www. roverconnection.com and when I last checked it was $135.00+ shipping. Order something cheap first and they will send you a 10% off coupon.
  • brandmarbrandmar Member Posts: 37
    What is the routine service like on a Land Rover Discovery?

    How much do the oil changes cost through a dealer? Is it any more than another vehicle?

    How does the scheduled maintenance run? I assume there would be a 15K and 30K service that would be required to keep up with the warranty. Are they very expensive?

    I've been on the fence about a Land Rover and was curious how much it would run me a year.

    Thanks!
  • expert1expert1 Member Posts: 133
    The number one question is are you going to do the work yourself? With dealer labor at $70.00+/hr service costs can mount up. I do all the service work myself on my rig and one extra quart of oil is the only difference between any model of SUV on the road. The differential service must be done at 7500 miles, but then at 90000 miles. The synthetic fluid is costly though, about $30.00 for both axles. Draining the fluids are a snap. Brake jobs are also easy, taking about 30 minutes per. The pads are $58.00 for front and $70.00 for the rear, about the same for any other SUV again. Maintenance on any SUV is extensive, but not too expensive. Again, air cleaners are $10.99 and oil filters are standard PH16s at around $4.00. All in all you can see that the Discoveries' service cost is no more than any other SUV, provided that you do the work. I can't see any other maintenance needed to keep your warranty up.
  • waskowasko Member Posts: 103
    All:

    Having a DI prior and now a DII (non-ace), the amount of control in the corners is night and day. I live up a 2 mile winding road and could (if I wanted to) take the road at 10mph faster in the DII than I could in the DI. Of course, I poke around all the time and am not an aggressive driver, but I could be if I wanted to :)

    I too did some long trials of both ACE and non-ACE DIIs before purchasing. ACE is definitely more solid in the corners but again, due to my pokey driving style, the extra cost, and the extra whining noise that it makes, I opted for non ACE and am completely happy.

    Love the DII but still missing the DI... :)

    Thanks, wasko
  • brandmarbrandmar Member Posts: 37
    Thanks for the reply . I would be having the maintenance done at a dealership so I would expect it to get costly. I'm still going to have to think on it.
  • grover4grover4 Member Posts: 13
    We were able to get all scheduled maintenance through the warranty period for $500 (this is a land rover deal). So you may want to ask about this.
  • brandmarbrandmar Member Posts: 37
    Thanks for the info. Did you buy your Land Rover recently? It sounds like a good deal. I'll have to ask the dealer about that.
  • buroskyburosky Member Posts: 90
    Right now there is a Promo going on for 3.9% financing for up to 60 months plus FREE scheduled maintenance here in the San Francisco area. I got mine in April. I thought I had a good deal at 5.9% and $350 for the maintenance. Goes to show, Patience is a virtue. However, it is quite difficult to be patient when you like something so much. Besides, who knows what's in store in the future? If I did, I'd be very rich by now. :)
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Just a quick note, I've been using WIX oil filters for quite some time, being happy with their performance. Last oil change I couldn't get one so I used another name brand (name omitted) and had LOTS of lifter noise at cold start.

    Last weekend I changed the oil again, using a Purolator Premium One. It's the x-ref filter for the Fram PH8A long-body. And, it seems to be doing great! The anti-drainback valve must be working well, I have almost zero lifter noise on cold start now.

    Just spreading the good news, -Bob
  • expert1expert1 Member Posts: 133
    The service through the LR dearler will probably be at the recommended intervals. Oil change at 7500 miles and a oil filter every other change, with a lube and air filter at 30000 and a differential change at 7500. This is only 6 oil changes in 50000 miles. I personally, if I didn't do the maintenance myself, would use a oil change service like Jiffy Lube, have my rig serviced at 3000 miles and still would be under the $500 mark. The problem also at the dealer is the fact that you have to schedule the maintenance, have it gone for a day, get a ride to work etc. What a hassel. Maybe that is why all the bad press in this forum on the maintenances issues with Landrover. I don't know about you guys, but my dealer is way across town and the only one in my city. Like I said before, LR is the easiest vehicle that I have serviced. The rig has plenty of clearance, everything is accessible, parts are available everywhere and service is a snap.
  • expert1expert1 Member Posts: 133
    With the long body filter do you have to add the .1 of a quart? I found that with the short body Ph16, 6 quarts of oil is all that is needed. Thus, I don't have a quart on my shelf with .1 quarts missing. Also changing it at 3000 mile intervals I don't worry about needing the extra filtering capacity of the long body. Plus the short one gives me more clearance and is a snap to change.
  • grover4grover4 Member Posts: 13
    we just recently (last month) traded in our DI for a DII. the dealer would have thrown in the service if we paid more for the car (prob a wash).
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    You hit the nail on the thumb... with my maintenance scheme I wind up with partially-used quarts on the shelf. But, those conveniently go into other things like my motorcycle, the mower, chainsaw bar lube, etc.

    I agree, with frequent changes you don't need the extra filtering capacity. I use them to get more filtering surface area, which gives me quicker oil pressure pump-up and reduces the likelihood of opening the filter's popoff valve in cold weather driving. Same reason to use synthetics in winter... I'm up to oil pressure right away, even when it's way below zero.
  • wantadiscoiiwantadiscoii Member Posts: 7
    Hi,

    I've been reading the messages here for a while and I have been interested in getting a Disco II for the last few months. I've finally found one that I may be interested in. Can you please check the service record and let me know what you find?

    It is a 2000 with a VIN of SALTY1546YA241549.

    Also, I have heard that Disco's do not need to be aligned. Is this true?

    I appreciate your help. Thanks.
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    That vehicle was built on 9-10-99, and has had minimal problems under warranty. A couple of trim issues and recalls are all I found. Alignment on a Discovery amounts to setting the toe-in due to the fact that it has live axles both front and rear.
  • wantadiscoiiwantadiscoii Member Posts: 7
    Tincup,

    Thanks for the information. Can you tell me when the warranty runs out on this vehicle? Can you also tell which servicings were done? For example, I hear that the oil in the diffs need to be changed at 7500 miles, can you tell if this was done already? What are the service intervals, and have they been performed? This truck has 23,242 miles on it.

    Thanks again for your help.
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    The vehicle shows as having received the 7500 and 15000 maintenance . That seems to be the last one performed at a Land Rover retailer. The 22,500 is a minor service, next major service is due at 30,000 miles. You can get a copy of the maintenance schedule from a Land Rover retailer, and if the vehicle you are looking at has the Owners wallet, it is also in there. Warranty is scheduled to time out on 11-30-03 or at 50,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
  • wantadiscoiiwantadiscoii Member Posts: 7
    Tincup,

    Boy you are quick! I'm beginning to feel like one of the benefits of LR ownership are great people like yourself!

    Thanks for the information on the truck. I went to look at it this morning. The vehicle is at a BMW dealership and I'm not sure how knowledgable they are about it. It is a 2000 that has 18" wheels, and they say it has ACE, but is there anyway for me to confirm just by looking at it? Is there some indication or switches on the dash that would verify, or can you tell me what to look for if I peek under the truck?

    I will contact a LR dealership in my area to get a copy of the maintenance schedule. Do you know if the prices for the servicing are listed? Finally, can you tell me which LR dealership in CA this vehicle has been serviced at? I'd probably like to continue taking it to that location since they are familiar with it. Thanks again.
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    Thanks for the kind words. Land Rover San Jose sold and serviced that vehicle. 18" wheels only came with the ACE package, but for further proof look under the right side of the truck, if you see some metal lines (4 from the front, 2 from the rear) going into an aluminum block bolted to the frame about midpoint of the vehicle, the vehicle has ACE. Those are the hydraulic lines for the ACE system.
  • wantadiscoiiwantadiscoii Member Posts: 7
    Tincup,

    Thank you again for your information. The vehicle certainly has ACE.

    I called LR San Jose and and explained to them that I was looking to purchase a used (but still under warranty) Discovery that I had "heard" was purchased at LR San Jose and if I could get information on the service history. They flatly refused to give me any information and said that they couldn't give me the info even if I bought the car. Is this a standard LR policy? I am completely flabbergasted by this. They tell me that it is to protect the privacy of the previous owners. I don't give a *^&%# about the previous owners, but I do care about the record of the vehicle. I'm not even sure that I want to deal with LR San Jose anymore. Is there an "official" way that I get get a detailed listing of the servicing history from LR once/if I buy the vehicle?

    Also, I've been reading my 2001 Discovery brochure (I'm hoping that it's very similar to the 2000 models) and it seems like only the Canadian models have daytime running lights. I have these in my Volvo and I really think that they are a great safety feature. Is there any way to get daytime running lights on a US model Discovery?

    Thanks again.
  • woodywwwoodyww Member Posts: 1,806
    A dealer telling you that you can't get the service history of a vehicle they serviced even if you buy it is ridiculous........Are you getting a great deal on this particular vehicle? It should be if you are getting the runaround from both the selling dealer & the place where it was serviced. I would at least insist that the BMW dealer get the info from the LR dealer. I have become very wary of used "mystery cars" that the selling dealer tells you there is no way to get the history of. Have you shopped around a lot for used DII's, &/or gotten any good vibes from other LR dealers in your area? Good luck!
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    I'm sure if you had the BMW dealer check he could get the info for you. If your info was on the History, would you want the dealer to give it to someone who said they were looking at buying the vehicle? Land Rover Retailers are independent businesses and hold their customers as very special people, and when you finally own one you will see they respect your privacy as well.
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    I can assure you the vehicle that wantadiscoii is looking at is not a mystery vehicle, I have seen the record. The dealer did not say there was no way to get the info, just that they would not release it to someone they did not know. It is of no advantage to them to not release it or release it, they do not get the sale either way. I would think that a dealer in the silicon valley area is quite aware of the privacy concerns that most of their customers (as do most computer savvy people)have. Their is quite a lot of personal info on the vehicle history, it also includes key and radio codes.
  • woodywwwoodyww Member Posts: 1,806
    Well, I think that wantadiscoii is fortunate to have someone (you) who is able & willing to check out the vehicle history for him. The thing that really got me was the servicing dealer telling him he wouldn't give him prior service or warranty info on the vehicle even once he owned it! I've been stuck in his situation before; being stone walled by dealers about a used car's service or warranty records, & it's very frustrating. Sometimes the selling dealer tells you they don't have any info & can't get it; & then the dealer who serviced it won't tell you anything (& occasionally can be downright rude about it), so the prospective used car buyer is left totally in the dark. (And most people usually don't have the advice of a generous soul like yourself, who works for a dealer or the manufacturer, to sort things out for them). However, I was fortunate that when I bought my used RR, the LR dealer where it had been serviced was great about providing the service history to me, even tho I didn't buy it from them.

    Also, I'm sure the LR dealer that wantadiscoii called would have gladly given him the service history, at least verbally, if he had been buying the Disco from them (& they were profiting from the sale)....... Obviously, no one should give out the first owner's key codes, regardless.

    Hence my term "mystery vehicle"......it shouldn't have to be like pulling teeth for the consumer to find out about prior repairs or maintenance on a used, but still-under-warrenty car, but too often is. I was just saying, maybe look for a different vehicle with available records if it comes to that. And believe me, I know how excellent LR dealers can be (partly why I bought one), but I did find a marked difference between even LR dealers when I was shopping.

    IMHO you provide a great service on this board......but unfortunately most used car buyers don't have the advantage of your expertise or access to information (when I was shopping for a used LR it was before you were posting here). BTW, you've given me info here before & I appreciate it.

    Just my 2cents worth, as a consumer.
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