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I bet the limiting factor is the tire carcass, not the reverse restraining pressure from outside.
Anyone have some hard info on this?
I wasn't concerned about exploding tires! Certainly aircraft tires are designed differently from road tires.
I was thinking about smoothness of ride, safety and factors like that. It would seem to me that "stretching" tires at higher elevations might put the tires into a different area of the elasticity curve, like becoming stiffer when driven near Pikes Peak compared with Key Biscayne.
tidester
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SUVs
I know my tires warm up even when it's cold out, but they're nowhere near as hot as tires in Florida would be. BUT, when it's nasty cold they get "flat-spotted" and they roll rough the first few miles. I bet they're dangerous at that point. But once they've rounded out they seem to grip the road well. Driving at 12,000' last July it was 40F and the tires' performance was indistinguishable from sea level. But, on roads like that you're not really pushing for max Gs in corners either... (grin)
I suspect ambient temperature has more to do with the tires' performance than altitude. Any other ideas anyone?
About the suspension thump, look at the front middle mounting point for your rear suspension. There's an A-frame under there doing the job of a Panhard bar, and its forward mounting point is about under your butt... any looseness there will be felt by your most sensitive measurement device.
I think I'll run right home and give my driveshafts a squirt of grease! Yikes, you reminded me that I haven't done that in awhile...
It's sub-zero here and the Disco is so stinking quaint in these conditions. I leave her outside all day and then when I want to go someplace in the evening she fires right up but delicately (tho vigorously) complains about having to move. She'll do it, but WOW is she sluggish! After 10 minutes the lubes are stirred up a little and she starts to cooperate again.
Nice hearing from you!
1. Have had a 2001 Disco II for about 4 months and haven't had any problems with it. The dealer seems to be quite responsive and we recently went on an offroading trip with them in Hollister, which was great fun!
2. Can relate with your dog fur problem as we have a husky and a retriever (big dogs, big shedders!). They ride in the back (not allowed on the seats) and we cover the backs of the rear seats with sheets. I think the leather is better since the fur doesn't stick.
Good luck with your purchase!
Let's all hope Ford keeps their finger out of the pot. I'd hate to see them screw up the great unique vehicle the DII is. The last thing the world needs is another SUV redesigned to look like a minivan like the ML320 and the back end of the '02 exploder. Improved quality is good but leave the rest alone.
Almost 4 months and 6500 miles on my truck and I'm as satisfied with my decision today as the day I drove her home. Owning a Rover is a relationship not just another car. Similarly the dealer is about customer service not just "will that be cash or credit".
The great white north is just that... great, VERY white, and north! We've got a lot of snow the last few weeks and now the temps are hanging around zero to -10F. My bike ride this morning was -5F and the toes got a touch frostnipped, but soon warmed up.
Last night at the troop meeting some of the guys were hanging out in the parking lot when I got there, they'd done some donuts with 2WD pickups so I pulled in and touched the parking brake to set her into a slide, then gassed it and worked the steering wheel, performing a *perfect* 4 wheel drift around their trucks, and backed her into my parking spot.
The crowd goes wild! Perfect 10s across the board except from the British judge... these trucks are to be "refined" into parking spots, not "tossed". *wink*
WARNING: take it easy on the parking brake to set her into slides... you can TRASH your transfer case!
Steve
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SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
It's been awhile. Travel hockey for my son is keeping us busy - it's about 35 miles each way (plus traffic).
Nanuq & Ocean - I hear what you guys are saying about DI's. I cursed at mine when I had it - it would make me swear like a sailor. But do you know what? I miss that Landie. It had character - a lot more character than my DII.
The DII is more like the appliances you've spoken of in the past, Nanuq. Sure, it has character, but I find myself *frequently* missing my DI. Is that crazy or what? Better handling, more acceleration, better sound system, and more space in the rear. But not my DI...
The Defender is running great and whenever I long for the days of yore in the DI, I jump in the Defender and all seems normal again.
Going to have my head examined now
Wasko
It's good to see you again! This is like old times!
Tincup47,
Hope you might help me with this Disco history...last 8 digits of VIN# VA537950
Thanks!
Looks like $72,500 will get you into one. A heck of a lot cheaper than the $135k they were selling for grey market, but still the cost of 2 DIIs
Thanks, wasko
Thank you,
02Discovery
And with that, could you check another vehicle for me? Vin# saljy1248va536949 It is really great that you are willing to do this for people on this forum. If the right Discovery is discovered, we will be driving it around within the week. Thanks for your help.
Jake
Congratulations! -Bob
Also, the only other things I don't like about the car are rear seat entry and front seat door speaker. The rear door seems extremely small (especially at the bottom), and the speaker in the front door seems to jut out a bit too far into the leg space and my leg bumps against it. Have you all overlooked these issues, do you get used to them, or do you just not care?
Thanks in advance. I really love the car but I'm having trouble buying because of these issues, which I believe to be very important.
If you are interested in the color Vienna Green, and have not yet seen it for yourself, we also provide a photo of one for your consideration.
We are awaiting a mid January delivery of our 2002 Vienna Green Discovery SE.
Regards to all.
http://members.aol.com/Spfnever/crash.jpg
http://members.aol.com/Spfnever/tire.jpg
http://members.aol.com/Spfnever/VG.jpg
Thanks for your help in advance.
On a parallel topic, for non-synthetic oil you want to stick with a range of 30 points or less. For example, 10-40w or 20-50w. Any wider range than that means the manufacturer extended the range with polymers... those do improve the oil's qualities but not its lubricating ability. Oil lubricates, polymers do magic. Stick with a simple narrow-range oil and change it often.
Filters: I like the WIX long-body 51515, it's the replacement for the Fram PH8A and fits my DI just fine. It's got a nice quality anti-drainback valve and reduces startup noise with the lifters.
Best regards, -Bob
Owwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww! ps: he drove it home.
Steve
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SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
7-seater option? How much over invoice is a "good" price. BTW - I live in the Bay Area (CA).
Bay Area owners - Can you recommend a dealership? I have been dealing with Stevens Creek LR but if anyone knows of a better dealership who can give me a better price please advise me. Thanks.
About your no-start issue... it can be a couple of things. Sometimes when I'm in a hurry I jump in and crank the key before she's had a chance to compose herself. Remember, these are refined ladies we're driving and they must prepare themselves before appearing in public. Actually there are a bazillion solenoids over in the passenger footwell and they all have to do their business before cranking happens.
Alternately, it may be that your fuse block is getting some corrosion. Not to worry! This is a pleasant job. It's under the hood, offside about midpoint with the engine right up on top. It's a black box (the horror!) about 10" long by 6" wide. Just open her up and unplug every cable that comes in the underside. Then remove each fusible link (one at a time so they don't get scrambled) and clean it and its connecting points in the fuse block with something mildly abrasive. I use a simple pencil eraser. Blow out the dust and reassemble. It takes about 15 minutes total.
I was having all KINDS of electrical weirdness and this simple job solved them all! It seems all the big circuits come in right there, and if you have sporadic connections then they feed "noisy" power to the ECUs... and computers do NOT LIKE that. They want nice clean filtered smooth power. Like a nice espresso... a little zing but no grounds.
I hope you get some snow soon! We've got lots here, but I want another 5 or 6 feet... that's about perfect.
Q'amai, -Bob
http://climate.gi.alaska.edu/Curtis/curtis.html
http://www.geo.mtu.edu/weather/aurora/
Could you do me one more favor? This is the last one, I promise. What can you tell me about this VIN# SALJY1242TA186683? This one is serious, and the hope to make a deal by Tuesday if all looks good. Thanks so much!
1) it didn't seem like that steep of a grade, why would it scrape. i've seen commercials of rovers plowing through mud that seemed 1.5 feet deep covering their entire wheel and fenders and their plastic fenders don't go flying off.
2) how much is this going to cost to repair? i'm almost scared of taking it to the dealer and finding out the cost.
I'm on a deer hunting vacation in MI, back at the in-laws for some much needed unwinding and decompression.
The first shirt I grabbed out of the duffel at 5am EST on opening day was my Lord Lucas tshirt
Must have been good luck - bagged a spike on the first time out. But now my Defender probably won't start when I get back to WA
As I was rumbling across the field in the father-in-law's 85 Dodge pickup, I closed my eyes briefly and dreamt I was in the middle of nowhere in a SIII 109. Of course, this is farm country and I *am* in the middle of nowhere.
Funny how Rovers creep into your thoughts all the time. And funnier yet that an 85 Dodge is still running (barely though).
Happy Thanksgiving to all and happy rovering!
Take care, wasko
I don't think the grade has much to do with it. If your tires were buried in mud, that could be enough to allow "upper parts" to be exposed to the ground with unpredicatble consequences.
As to the cost, if you're very very lucky, the fender can be bolted back on with some reinforcing sheet metal and washers where the bolts used to be. On the other hand, depending on the specific nature of the damage, you might have to replace the fender. I do hope that the former is the case!
tidester
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SUVs
Tincup47, thanks for all your help!