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Ford Ranger Engine questions

rbarnesrbarnes Member Posts: 3
in Ford
I have a '93 ford ranger 3.0 v6.I noticed a black knob about 1" dia that is located on what I think is a sensor on the drivers side of intake manifold.The whole sensor(?) assembly has a black plastic cover over it and the knob is on the left lower side toward the engine.Anyone know what this may be?
Thank you
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Comments

  • chucktkdchucktkd Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1998 with the four cylinder and multi-port injection and a stick shift. 120k miles.

    It sometimes idles roughly and sometimes perfectly but in either instance when I go to accelerate it tries to choke out and sometimes does. I pushed in the valve with my finger where you apply a pressure gauge to check fuel pressure and fuel came out flying.

    I have recently replaced the air filter and rear O2 sensor. I went to replace the fuel filter but I cannot get it off.

    There are no engine warning lights on.

    I placed my hand over the tail pipe and the temperature is normal.

    Thanks!

    Chuck
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    The throttle position sensor is always worth looking at in situations like this.......
  • chucktkdchucktkd Member Posts: 4
    J,

    Thanks for the input. I will replace it this evening.
    One question, in my Haynes manual it says to be sure to line up the slot in the TPS with the blade on the throttle shaft. This seems pretty simple but is there a way to screw this up?

    Thanks again!

    Chuck
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    but is there a way to screw this up?

    You'd have work really hard to screw it up........
  • chucktkdchucktkd Member Posts: 4
    I got it....Thanks!
  • texaschucktexaschuck Member Posts: 4
    For the past 5 or 10 thousand miles this 3.0 liter has had a clicking sound often, usually when backing off lightly on speed, accompanied sometimes by a puff of white smoke out the tailpipe, when the clicking is often louder. No oil consumption is noticed between oilchanges. Ideas?
  • texaschucktexaschuck Member Posts: 4
    I use a quart every 1000 miles or so. Leak is from front of tranny. Anything to try rather than a tranny rebuild?
  • texaschucktexaschuck Member Posts: 4
  • chucktkdchucktkd Member Posts: 4
  • rinkyrinky Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 ranger and has a pinging noise.
    Ive cleaned out everything,changed the maf sensor
    changed wires,plugs,etc.
    noise is still there
    how can I get rid of the noise
    4.0 v6
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Tighten the lower intake manifold bolts. Loose bolts is usually the reason 4L's ping. Loose bolts also cause oil usage.

    Clean the MAF sensors with electrical spray cleaner. This might be a part of ping also, but loose intake is usual problem.
  • rinkyrinky Member Posts: 2
  • jimbob510jimbob510 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 Ranger, 67000 mi on the clock-never hit. Recently developed a water leak (seap) on the drivers side floor area by the kick panel. Pulled the seat & carpet to dry & set up the hose to see where it's coming in. No drips visible under the dash. Anyone else as frustrated as me?
    Jim
  • modanncnrmodanncnr Member Posts: 12
    YES. IT IS CALLED THE EGR VALVE POSITION SENSOR. THEY ARE A COMMON PROBLEM FOR STALLING, ROUGH IDLE, HIGH IDLE, AND WHAT WOULD OTHERWISE BE KNOWN AS A STICKY THROTTLE PEDAL, BUT THE PEDAL DOES NOT STICK. YOU CAN PICK ON UP FROM YOUR LOCAL FORD DEALER FOR LESS THAN $30 DOLLARS. THERE IS ALSO A FLAT BLACK ONE NEXT TO IT ON THE MANIFOLD, AND PRAY THAT IT DOES NOT GO BAD. THAT IS THE DPFE SENSOR, OR Differential Pressure / Feedback Exhaust Sensor. They can be a couple hundred bucks. I have been a service manager and ASE certified tech for several years now. If any other ?'s let me know. :shades:
  • modanncnrmodanncnr Member Posts: 12
    you have the common "head" problem. When the valve jackets crack between the slight clearances of the valves on the intake side, water can seep through and make it's way into the cylinders. The clicking is fuel and water not being ignited properly and the white smoke is what is left of the detonation of the water. Are your spark plugs green tinged at all? Is your coolant level going down or getting bubbles in it? THis condition is a premonition to hydro-lock. In other words, when the jacket cracks completely open from the water jacket to the head(the rest of the way) you will force water into the motor. Water does not compress like fuel, so watch out. You will snap a rod or piston and launch it out of the wakest point close to it at the time (eg. oil pan, block, etc). Make sure that you resolve the problem. It is a slight possibility, but once in a great while, the intake will leak internally and cause the same condition. Good luck my friend. Try not to drive freeway speeds too much if you can help it, until you get it resolved.
  • msblonde2712msblonde2712 Member Posts: 2
    I have been useing E-85 in my 99 ranger for about 2 months now. And it is running real sluggish. When I accelerate it seems to dog out real bad i have change the fuel filter. When i put it in park it runs fine. Im thinking maybe i got some bad gas i dont know. The check engine light does not come on. I just recently change the battery and the alternator and put fuel injuctor cleaner in it. Anyone have any suggestions what i should do next?
  • hurcumhurcum Member Posts: 3
    I have just replaced a fuel pump in the gas tank on my 88 ranger XLT, replaced the original distributor. The truck starts well them after a short while the engine idles and then slowly dies. Where have I gone wrong
  • modanncnrmodanncnr Member Posts: 12
    THE 1ST PROBLEM, IS THAT YOU NEVER, EVER REPLACE AND IGNITION AND A FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENT IN THE SAME REPAIR, UNLESS YOU ARE A CERTIFIED TECHNICIAN WITH THE PROPER SCOPE AND TESTING SCHEMATICS WITH THE EXPERTISE TO USE THEM FOR THE AFTERMATH AND CONFIRMATION.

    WHAT WAS WRONG WITH THE ORIGNIALS?? INSTALL THE OLD DIST. AGAIN AND SEE IF IT RUNS GOOD. IF NOT, THEN THE PROBLEM IS NOT DUE TO THE NEW DIST AND EITHER IS RELATED TO THE FUEL PUMP OR A SEPARATE, NEW PROBLEM. IF IT DOES RUN GOOD, YOU KNOW THAT THE PROBLEM IS IN THE NEW ONE. DID YOU GET A NEW CAP AND ROTOR?? CHECK THOSE FOR ARCING AS WELL. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GOOD BRAND LIKE FOMOCO OR MOTORCRAFT OR BORG-WARNER.

    IF THE PROBLEM DOES NOT CHANGE, INSTALL THE OLD FUEL PUMP AND THE OLD DIST, WHICH IS BEFORE THIS PROBLEM STARTED, IF I UNDERSTAND CORRECTLY. SAME PROCESS HERE AS WELL.

    IF NEITHER OF THOSE MAKE A DIFFERENCE, THEN YOU KNOW YOU HAVE A NEW PROBLEM WHICH IS WHY IT IS HARD TO REPLACE MULTIPLE SYSTEM COMPONENTS AT ONE TIME. IF THIS IS THE CASE, REINSTALL YOUR NEW COMPONENTS AND CHECK THE IGNITION MODULE,COIL, WIRES AND ECM. SOMETHING IS GETTING HOT AND ARCING OUT OR GROUNDING FROM EXCESSIVE HEAT THROUGH THE CIRCUIT SOMEHOW. THE IGN MODULE IS EITHER ON THE BOTTOM OF THE DIST, INSIDE OF THE HOUSING ON THE BASEPLATE, OR ON THE D/S BACK FIREWALL. SHOULD BE GREY OR BLACK, DEPENDING ON MODEL. MOST PARTS STORES CAN TEST THEM ON A STAND-ALONE BASIS WITH THEM OUT OF THE VEHICLE. IF THAT IS NOT IT, CHECK THE COIL FOR RESISTANCE ON THE PRIMARY AND SECONDARY SIDE. THIS IS ALSO A COMMON PROBLEM.

    GET A MANUAL AND GO THROUGH THE FLOW CHART DIAGNOISTICS. WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND ALLDATA.COM AND PAY THE FEE FOR THE LIFETIME USE OF THAT VEHICLE'S DATA. I THINK IT'S $44 OR CLOSE TO IT. WELL WORTH THE MONEY, AND YOU CAN TEACH YOURSELF AN AWFUL LOT THROUGH THEIR DIAGNOSTIC CHARTS. IF NONE OF THIS HELPS, REPOST AND I WILL GET BACK TO YOU. GOTTA RUN SINCE I HAVE A MONSTER TRUCK SHOW TO ANNOUNCE IN OHIO. IT MAY TAKE ME A COUPLE DAYS TO GET BACK TO YOU. THANKS. KEVIN. :shades: :)
  • hurcumhurcum Member Posts: 3
  • modanncnrmodanncnr Member Posts: 12
    YOUR WELCOME. LET ME KNOW WHAT COMES OF YOUR DIAGNOSIS GOOD OR BAD. THANKS.
  • hurcumhurcum Member Posts: 3
    thanks kevin.
    The distributor is the original and was rusted and worn out. I changed the rotor and the cap. The idling revs went from 3/400 to 8/900. The pump was worn out and I did change them one at a time. There was aproblem awhile ago when mu niece owned it that the engine heat sensor said after a moment or too the engine was overheated and it stopped. Why then does this monster start then stall after a very little while and then refuse to start for 5 minutes and then the cycle can be repeated
    Mike
  • modanncnrmodanncnr Member Posts: 12
    That sounds an awful lot like a coil or ignition module. they are infamous for that very thing. What happens is the module, has a heat transfer plate built onto the back of it and if it is shorted, it will actually try to send power out of the already grounded plate once it gets hot, then the circuits touch from expansion, and you have to let it die, then sit for however long until it is cooled down enough to allow it to perform it;s normal duty. I would make sure the others are ok for sure before I replace it, but it sounds like you may need a new one anyway. I am very surprised that they did not try and sell you that at the parts store when you bought your distributor. A good ASE certified parts pro should have suggested that to you over and above the cap and rotor. Let me know man, won't be back on the email until tomorrow or late tonight. I'm an on EST time right now.
  • minoshiyaminoshiya Member Posts: 2
    From my understanding if you vehicle was not equipt to run on E85 the most ethanol you can run is 15%. So unless there was a mod done to your engine that could be the whole problem.
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    I totally agree with minoshiya..get that E-85 out of there before you do more damage to the vehicle. Check this link for more information....
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E85#Use_in_standard_engines
  • ballpeenballpeen Member Posts: 8
    I want to test the knock sensor on my 98 Ranger 3.0. Its not in the Chilton or Haynes manuals. Anyone know where it is?
  • modanncnrmodanncnr Member Posts: 12
    Big question is why???????????
    Call ford and make sure you even have one to look for. You most likely do, but some variations of the 3.0l did not. So, with that in mind............
    It is either on the bottom of the driver's side block, inside of the timing cover setup, or if you're really lucky, it may actually be buried underneath the lower intake manifold! Remember, it has to be in a location where it will not be interfered with by ambient noises or vibration, so it's location is not usually easy to get at on a Ford. These are the most common locations. I don't remember exactly where yours is, but why are you needing to test the knock sensor??? What makes you suspect it as a problem?? Just curious to find out, since most manuals and other people like to point to them as a problem when timing is retarded, etc, when in fact, 99% of the time, it hears or feels something that you cannot and makes an adjustment so that you do not prematurely blow your motor up. 99% of the time, they work fine. Have you gone to alldata.com and gone through the diagnosis flow charts yet?? might be well worth your time to look into. Make sure you have one and do a flowchart rundown to make sure you are on the right track. There are 3-6 things that you test for the same symptoms first, before the knock sensor is allowed as a candidate for the cause of failure. Cya.
  • ballpeenballpeen Member Posts: 8
    Thanks, Sounds like a bear to get at.

    Couple reasons. First, I’ve checked just about everything else and the truck runs great but pings like crazy under load on everything but Premium Gas. In my area Regular Gas is $216(pre-election price) and Premium is $255. It also bugs me because from what I’ve read no OBDII vehicle rated for regular gas should ping. The ECM should adjust timing if it gets feedback from the knock sensor.

    To eliminate other possibilities, I used Autotap and found all sensors are reading normal. The front O2’s are fluctuating nicely and the back O2 reads clean. Short term fuel trim fluctuates between +.6 and -.8. I tested the EGR and its working OK. Vacuum is good. Engine temp is normal.

    I know that something solid-state like a piezzo element in the knock sensor shouldn’t fail, but I’m running out of options. I also know this is a common problem with the 3.0, and I’d love to get my hands on at least one of the TSB’s Ford put out about it (Bulletin Numbers: (6321, 12782,14076, 13528, 14366, etc) but can’t find full write-ups, only references. I did however find something similar happening with Toyotas and someone traced it to a bad ground on the sensor’s shielded cable, i.e, the signal getting back to the ECM was too weak to register. So, I’d figured I’d give it a shot. I was hoping they’d be easier to get at.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    You said ' I also know this is a common problem with the 3.0,'.

    Yes, very, very common problem with 3L Ranger motors, for years and years and years.

    You have the problem. The only thing I've heard Ford doing about it, and I think it was for older Rangers tham yours, was replace the coil packs with ones that supposedly was 'hotter'. Or some such thing.

    Can't you buy a subscription to 'Alldata' for one year for something like $20, and this gets you all the TSB's (except Honda doesn't give out theirs at all, and possibly some other manufactors. I think Alldata will have Ford's.)

    There is also another thing that can be done. And I never remember the correct name for it. There is a SPUG or SPUNG or some such named 'connector' that can be 'pulled'. But what this does is retard the timing, which should reduce ping. Of course, retarding the timing also reduces power.....
  • modanncnrmodanncnr Member Posts: 12
    Well, I certainly would not start unplugging SPNG plugs as bolivar suggests. What you do not want to do is mask the problem or create a temporary solution for a premanent problem. Sounds like you have done your homework, and I think you have, but I'll ask anyway. Did you spray the intake and check for small or large vacuum leaks at all? That will cause the same result, moreso with Reg gas than with Super. You might also try running injector cleaner through it and then change to a stage hotter plug. You have to wait until after, because it will kind of ruin a brand new plug. Check off those 2 things and you may have a knock sensor failure. They are quite sensitive. Have a good one. BTW, I know that Mitchell ON Demand has ford tsb's and alldata does as well.
  • rebekkah1rebekkah1 Member Posts: 1
    he changed the fuel pump and crank shaft sensor and hit the relay switch but there is no spark to start the truck. what can be the problem. :sick:
  • ballpeenballpeen Member Posts: 8
    Hey bolivar,

    Just bit the bullet and went for your plug…. Bought an Alldat.com subscription.

    At first Nothing….None of the tsb's (as listed) by the site below are shown at Alldata

    http://www.ford-trucks.com/tsb/tsb.php/m-FORD/y-1998/d-RANGER
    for ping problems e.g.,
    http://www.ford-trucks.com/tsb/tsb.php/m-FORD/d-RANGER/y-1998/t-13528
    Or
    http://www.ford-trucks.com/tsb/tsb.php/m-FORD/d-RANGER/y-1998/t-12782
    The list goes on- Bulletin Number’s: 15095, 6321, 14076, 14366, 0073, 00248

    But then I found a real TSB Number 00-7-3. And it stated just what you said:

    Replace Coil, if between a set of code numbers… and then it also said replace the PCM

    Ackkkk. That says to me a faulty PCM. … i.e maybe it doesn’t HEAR the knock sensor.

    Anyway, after weighing my options, (i.e., how long of paying for Premium gas would it take to pay back for a new PCM, coil and time spent fixing something on an 8 year old vehicle.) I’ll just go for the gas. I repeat Ackkkkk…. :mad:

    All in all, Thanks for your help. I got the right answers…
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Well, I didn't 'recommend' pulling the SPNG (or whatever it is) connector. Maybe it could be read as I did 'suggest' it. But I really don't suggest it. Especially since a 3L needs all the power it can generate, and retarding the spark will reduce power.

    But, I've read that this is exactly what some Ford service people have done when people complain of the 3L pinging - pulling the connector.

    The motor has a design problem, has had it for years and years, and Ford does nothing about it. I've not heard of anyone actually having any damage from the pinging.
  • ballpeenballpeen Member Posts: 8
    Thanks modanncnr,
    Yes I did check vacuum leaks, even cleaned the MAF filament as suggested at TheRangerStation.com. Very frustrating. I think this engine should be rated for a higher-octane fuel. I’m still going to try the timing light/ whack the engine with a wrench test- to see if the timing retards. From what I’ve read, the resonant frequency of the Piezzo element is about 15 KHz, about the same as hitting an engine with a wrench… Besides at this point, it might be fun. :D

    Thanks for your help. As I said above.. I got the right answers.
  • ballpeenballpeen Member Posts: 8
    Well that didn’t work. (Wrapping the wrench on the block)
    Saw it at
    http://www.vehicletest.state.ma.us/newsletters/01MAY.pdf
    I tried it on the 3.0L Ranger, and I could’ see any perceptible change. I didn’t know if the sensor was bad or if the test was bogus, so then I tried it on my 4.2L F150. Same thing. There may have been a small change but it was too small to be conclusive.

    To make matter worse my wife came out and asked what I was doing. I told her and then showed her the posts I put here. The only thing she picked up on was a major Blooper in one of my posts. She’s still laughing.
  • vinby1952vinby1952 Member Posts: 4
    My truck ahs 120,000 miles I bought it from a private owner. It ran good for about a month I gave it a tune up replace the cap and rotor. and after it runs awhile it starts missing and then stops. It seems it's not getting any air I really don't know. But when it cools down it will run again for awhile. The truck does not over heat and all the readings are normal what can this problem be.

    Thank You
    Vince
  • fordguy0909fordguy0909 Member Posts: 1
    i am probably just going to get rid of my 85 ranger stick 4x4 4cyl. I bought the truck for a case of beer and ten bucks. the guy who had it before him raged on it real bad. now the timing sprockets only turn when i mess with the bottom sprocket and then turn the second one. the top sprocket dosent move. and the belt just sits there. i think i should just get a new engine. but i just wanted to see if there was anything i could do to fix it. i dont have the money for new so i want to fix . please help me out.

    thanks

    shayne
  • mullins5251mullins5251 Member Posts: 1
    2002 ford ranger no check engine light but no power. will not pass 3000 rpm. Hits about 3200 rpm and starts to miss fire and bog down wont pass that point. Dont matter if in drive or neutral still does it any one have any ideas. :sick: No trouble lights have come on.
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Bad cat converter or other exhaust restriction.....?
  • vinby1952vinby1952 Member Posts: 4
    My truck will not run when it gets hot. The water temp is fine but when I first start it up it runs but after about ten minutes it sounds like it's casping for air and woun't go over 5 miles and then bobs out. Please help me. I've tune it up change gas filteres.
  • modanncnrmodanncnr Member Posts: 12
    dude, you need a cat converter, or a MAF meter. Both of those will cause the exact result you are seeing. Take a thermometer(non-contact) and check before and after the cat temps while the truck is running and warmed up. THere should be no more than a 50 degree difference from the inlet pipe to the outlet pipe. If there is, then the cat is done. If they are fine, then the truck is limiting itself electronically somehow. THis would send me the direction of the Mass Air Flow meter (MAF) and in a hurry. If neither of those 2 make a difference, save yourself some money and time and take it to a dealer. They can find it quickly if those don't work. Good Luck.
  • modanncnrmodanncnr Member Posts: 12
    Ignition module been changed?????
  • vinby1952vinby1952 Member Posts: 4
    No not yet I replace the coil but still does the same thing
  • vinby1952vinby1952 Member Posts: 4
    will this correct the problem, and where would it be located.

    Thanks
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Also possibly a bad cat or fuel pump. Check your fuel pressure after it starts "casping for air"
    As previous poster suggested, check the cat temps with a good non-contact thermometer.
  • modanncnrmodanncnr Member Posts: 12
    the pump is in the tank, or yours is early enough that it may have a lift or electric booster pump in the frame rail, driver's side. I highly doubt it is fuel pressure, becuase once the pump goes bad, rarely does it just fire back up consistently. Usually it is good or bad, not half way in between. The Cat is located at the base of the header pipe on your truck. It may even be part of the header or collector assembly. You will need to get a good therm., one that you point a laser beam and it tells you the temp. THat is called a non-contact thermometer. Also be sure to check the ignition module, MAF or MAP and do yourself a favor, go to alldata.com and get some flow chart testing procedures for a warm, dying problem, followed by a crank, no-start until cool. You should get some help there.
  • dogtankdogtank Member Posts: 1
    My '98 ranger,105K, has no power to go up hills even unloaded. I end up in third gear doing about 55 if I run at 4000rpm otherwise it's even worse, any ideas what could be wrong?

    Thanks
  • isoscelesisosceles Member Posts: 3
    I have an 86 4x4 that my wife picked up for a couple of hundred dollars. I am amazed at the quality of this truck....far better than my S-10s. Anyway, it has a 2.9L engine that idles and runs fine around the farm, but on the hiway it starts out great, then will stutter and lose power, then recover just as fast. When I feel the power drop, a push on the accelerator will snap it back to life. This is annoying as I can't maintain a constant speed. I am either losing power or recovering. It seems to do this mostly around mid throttle, but wide open doesn't seem as peppy as I think it should. Sometimes during acceleration, it will lose some power, and the exhaust tone will change. There is no engine light, so every time it acts up, I grab my code reader and check it. No faults are found. I did replace the computer because it showed a constant A/C fault and I don't have A/C. I read earlier that I should check the Cat and MAF sensor, are there any other checks I can do?
  • fordtechfordtech Member Posts: 34
    You could try replacing the front seal on the transmission.
  • fordtechfordtech Member Posts: 34
    Yeah she needs a tuneup.. Change your plugs, wires, and fuel filter, and make sure you put platinum plugs back in, you dont have get the ones that are 3-4 dollars each just get the autolite platinum with the single ground. Then I would run a couple cans of Chevron fuel system cleaner through it with a couple tanks of gas. Wal-Mart has it for about $6/bottle. Its a black bottle and has the word TECHRON on it in white letters. Its the best you can buy over the counter (so says an independent company). Then after you do this initially, I would run one bottle every 2-3 tanks. I have 111,000 on my 3.0L and it still runs strong and I do what I just recommended to you. You might also try and find a spray can of FUEL INJECTOR cleaner. And spray it down your intake to clean the deposits out of there as well. I spray it right on the butterfly so that some will go through the idle air control valve, but it will start to die, so then ya have hit the throttle, and it will suck the rest through the butterfly and into the intake. Dont spray more than 30sec at a time. It can overheat your catlytic converter. Hope this helps. You are probably lookin at about $80 for just parts on the tune up.
  • isoscelesisosceles Member Posts: 3
    Just a follow up note. My truck has a MAP instead of a MAF. The wires, distributer and roter are new, I did however replace the plugs. Here is a big "what if"....I replaced the plugs with the ones recommended by Haynes...they are not platinum....could that be a problem?

    Any info would help.....Thanks
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