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2007 Toyota Camry Problems and Repairs

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Comments

  • run144erun144e Member Posts: 1
    Hi, does any one know how to remove the factory radio from a 2007 Toyota Camry??

    Thanks
  • alex24alex24 Member Posts: 54
    MY CAMRY HAD THE STEERING STICKING PROBLEM, what solved the problem with out putting a new rack and pinion, is go to auto parts store and buy a bottle of Lucus steering reconditioner, drain most of your power steering fluid and fill it with Lucus, lift your front wheels off the ground , start it and keep turning the steering all the way left and right to work in the Lucus fluid, drive your car a few days and up your front wheels again and turn left and right alot to work in the Lucus, and this should do the trick and no more sticking, This work great on my 93 camry, no more steering sticking problems, this was advice I took from Summit Racing Tech.
  • vizyovizyo Member Posts: 35
    I noticed my 2007 camry burns so much oil. I have 11000 km on it. I did only 4000km after I changed the oil last time. The oil was at "full" level at the beginning but now it is on the middle level between "low" and "full". Even my old corolla, which currently has 320K, does not burn this much oil. Is this normal with a new car? Does anyone else have the same problem?
  • dwb2dwb2 Member Posts: 24
    According to toyota it is not uncommon for an engine to use a quart between 1,000 and 1,500 miles. This also depends on the type of oil you use. I use castrol in mine and have no problems. Just my 2 cents worth.
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    In my experience, the late model Camry engines are unusually demanding about oil viscosity. The manufacturer is required by US fuel efficiency regulations to specify very light oil; typically 5w-30. However, we have found that this viscosity sometimes leads to exhaust smoke at start-up, and also is consumed more rapidly than the 20w-50 which Toyotas used to prefer, before the government overrode the use of that oil.

    At any rate, 1/2 quart consumed in 4000km is not at all uncommon, and should not be a cause for concern. You may well find that the car uses less oil after it has gone over 20,000km; when it will definitely be fully broken in.

    Joel
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    If their engines can't run properly on the 5W30 than they must be poor engines. 20W50 to me is put in a very high mileage car to keep from having it burn oil all the time. I have a 7 year old 38' motorhome that weighs 22000lbs and has the GM 8.1 engine (496cu.in.) and it uses 5W30 too. I have no problem with it using oil and it is always running around 3K with redline at 5400. Tells me the Camry is a poor engine. :shades:
    Maybe the 20w50 was why they had the engine sludge problem.
  • rearwheeldriverearwheeldrive Member Posts: 140
    I not alone.

    I have one too, a 93 V6 Camry that uses more oil than past vehicles Ive owned. I'm not sure what viscosity I have, but I try to get a higher viscosity in the summer I' ve owned this car for a year and notice on start it sometimes burns oil. Its usually after it has ran for a minute.

    I was pouring the oil in a pint size jar then putting it in the engine, this way I can monitor amount I use. Another thing is my wife drives this car and isn't sure how to operate the overdrive switch on the shifter I dont even try to explain the tach. It easy to cruise around town at 2000-23000. With the switch out it revs higher and probably contributes somewhat to the high usage.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    I have had Toyotas since 1984 and I have never seen them recommend "20W50". The Camry engine in the 2009 back to 2003 is the same - no problems, not a "poor" engine, if you do a search about this engine.

    They now recommend 5-20 or 0-20 (synthetic). My '07 is fine.

    As far as the sludge "problem" - A must read about the so-called sludge problem is in "Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions - READ ONLY" message #4829 by Hylyner.
  • wilbonwilbon Member Posts: 5
    I have no problem with my Camry using oil; but the gas mileage is, and always has been terrible. The best I can get is 19.5 mpg, and about 26 mpg on trip!
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Agree totally. I have had 3 Camry 4-cylinders, 2 current and 1 former.

    I've never heard of ANY manufacturer recommending 20W-50 in the last 30 years -- maybe some exotic like Ferrari? 10W-40 used to be fairly common in the late 70s into the 80s.
  • vizyovizyo Member Posts: 35
    I took my camry to the service this morning. They changed the oil and told me that I have to take the car to the service for every 1000km for the oil level to be measured. According to Toyota's instructions, if the car consumes 1Liter/1500km they consider it normal and they do not do anything. They also showed me the instructions list from Toyota for this inspection. They recommend oil change for every 8000km. If any Toyota consumes 1 Liter oil for every 1500 km, after 6000km there will be no oil left in the engine !!! And they consider this normal !!!

    I also had the back noise checked. I had posted it here before. My camry makes "Thuck" noise when the speed reaches to 15km/hr and 30km/hr. Some owners here said that it was ABS self-checking noise. Today, the technician in the service said the same thing. No one expects to hear such a noise from a new car. This noise is there since the first day I bought my car. I wanted to be convinced and asked them to show it to me on another camry. They did and another 2009 Camry did exactly the same noise.

    I still have rattles on the dashboard. I have not got it fixed yet.
  • hughesbsthughesbst Member Posts: 4
    Had the Camry in 6 times for Warped Rotors within 53k miles! 1st time: turned rear rotors, 2nd time replaced rear rotors, 3rd time, turned front rotors, 4th time turned all four rotors, 5th time same thing! Today was 6th time and of course now they want to charge an arm and a leg and it has been less than 12k miles since the last problem! Each time they said "it must be your driving or this is the 1st I've heard and I don't know why you are having this problem". Yeah well, it is obvious I am not the first and sure not to be the last!
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    If you can answer the following questions, I might be able to help you with this problem:

    1> What are the symptoms that lead you to take the car in to have the rotors checked? Do these symptoms go away completely each time they service the rotors?

    2> How much out of true do the rotors measure when the dealer says they need to be turned or replaced? (The dealer should have those measurements in their files)

    3> Have the brake pads ever been changed on this car? If so, was a different type of replacement pad used; or was it the standard Toyota part?

    There is another possible cause for this problem, besides it coming from the rotors themselves: If the spindles on which the rotors mount are bent, they will cause the rotors to wear unevenly. Have the spindles checked for trueness.

    Thanks, Joel
  • rearwheeldriverearwheeldrive Member Posts: 140
    Warped rotors, I think it is common for this problem to happen on certain Toyota's

    My two cents. I agree with last post about quality of pads Also about the rotors, you bought new ones for the back but never for the front. Then you turned the new rotors in the back along with the front rotors again.

    I say this because a rotor that overheats will warp. Each time you turn your rotors to remove warpage it might be contributing to the problem by making it thinner causing it to overheat.

    Now the front rotors have been turned three times The front rotors get hotter since the weight of the car shifts forward when you hit the brakes. The front rotors are probably too thin now getting hot and warped.

    Also you could buy new front rotors and install them yourself, or have the local neighborhood Johnny change them out. Parts would be about $100 dollars for pads and new rotors plus one hour labor for a young mechanic with some basic tools and a good floor jack.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    I think a lot of this problem would simply go away if the e-throttle were disabled anytime the brake pedal is even just ever so lightly depressed.
  • rearwheeldriverearwheeldrive Member Posts: 140
    My Q 1990 always go to fast idle on a closed throttle when I'm stopping. When I'm almost stopped it then idles down to 650RPM's. I believed I changed the brakes a couple times in the last 5 years I owned it.

    My 87 Corolla 4 banger will begin to shut off at 350 idle then will hold steady at 500 RPMs when I decelerate. I dont think I changed the brakes since I bought it back in 2001.
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Good Morning 210delray:
    I just noticed that I did not respond to your posting! ----- When it comes time to replace my 2007 XLE Carmy, (at 95,000 miles), I will be looking at another V6 Camry or a Chevrolet Impala. The Malibu is a nice vehicle, but I am on the road for extended periods of time, and I like a bigger vehicle.

    Before I purchased the Camry, I look at the 2007 Chevrolet Impala. I wanted an Impala LT with the 3.5 FlexFuel engine, the luxury edition pkg, a power sunroof and body side molding. I could not find any vehicles in stock in New Jersey that had this package! ----- I could order this vehicle if I wanted to, but it was not brought in as a "stock vehicle" by dealers! If I moved up the Impala line, I could have gotten the accessories, but I would not get the 3.5 FlexFuel engine, and I wanted that engine!

    On the otherside of the issue, I have a GREAT Toyota Dealer. They treat me VERY well as a customer. The Chevrolet Dealers in my area, (Nothern N.J.), sometimes leave a lot to be desired in terms of public relations. (That issue will enter into the mix when I start to look for a replacement vehicle). I would love to own an American vehicle, but I want to see and drive the vehicle that I am purchasing. I do not want to order it and wait 8 to 10 weeks for delivery. Question: ------ What happens if I do not like the way the vehicle operates once it arrives at the dealership? ----- Do I need to go to court to get out of the purchase contract? ----- I want to go to a dealer that stocks vehicles, walk the new car lot and make a selction!

    Best regards. ------ Dwayne :shades: ;):)
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    A reasonable dealer should be able to get you what you want. They should have a car you like, maybe not with exactly on it what you want but one you can drive and sit in, check out or whatever you need to do. It may not be your color, have a sunroof or body side moldings on it but have the engine etc. you are looking for. Unless it is late in the model year they should be able to do a dealer trade to get exactly what you want by sitting down with you at their computer and punching in what you want. I did this on my HHR that I traded my Colorado that was almost 5 years old with NO problems for. I narrowed it down to 3 colors I liked and he was able to find everything else I wanted on it. The tuff thing was getting one with the side air bags as that was an option and a lot of dealers didn't carry it that way. But he came through.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    It is not at all unusual on older cars for the engine to surge slightly, but definitely noticeable, as you apply the VACUUM assisted power brakes. The "use" of the vacuum for braking results in a surge of airflow into the intake manifold.

    On newer cars this surge of manifold intake airflow is anticipated by the engine/transaxle controlling ECU and compensated for as it happens.

    An extended surge as you seemingly describe is a bit unusual IMMHO so you may have a vacuum leak in the brake power boost system.
  • rearwheeldriverearwheeldrive Member Posts: 140
    If a new booster fixes it I'll save gas and brakes.

    I'll start to check booster and read into the manual , I always thought it was Infiniti design, runs great , but I know Im using more brake to stop than required.

    I developed a bad habit of throwing it in neutral
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Good Morning Vizyo:
    I am very interested in your posting about "oil consumption"! I own a 2007 V6 XLE Camry with 32,000 miles. This vehicle is serviced by the selling dealer every 2,500 miles, (oil & filter). (I know that the recommended service is at 5,000 miles, but I made a choice to cut that service interval in half)!
    My vehicle does not use any oil between oil and filter changes, and I do mostly high speed driving, (65 mph). Since the selling dealer does all of my service, I do not know what oil is being used in the vehicle. The dealer does recommend a "oil additive" which I do use, (BG / MOA)! The engine is VERY quiet both at idle and at start-up even in cold weather.
    Since I live in Northern New Jersey, I make it a point to warm-up the engine on cold winter mornings prior to traveling. (YES, I know that it is not recommended, but in life you need to make your own decisions!) I simply like a warm vehicle, and most of the time there is frost on the windows that needs to be removed, so I kill to birds with on stone!

    QUESTIONS:
    Could this condition be connected to a piston ring issue. Some vehicles accumulate carbon around the piston rings, and this locks the rings in the grooves of the piston. Because of this condition, the rings cannot follow the sides of the cylinder walls and the engine uses oil!
    What brand of fuel are you using?
    How often do you change your oil? (Oil & Filters are cheap, ---- engines are expensive!)

    NOTE:
    There are fuel additives on the market that are safe for the oxygen sensor to help to correct this issue. ("BG" is one of the companies that makes a fuel additive. There are many others on the market. Ask your toyota dealer.)

    FUEL CONSUMPTION:
    My driving is mostly highway. I average 30mpg on the highway without using the cruise control. At times I have had this figure up to 34mpg! This has been done on both "name brand" and "off brand fuel"!

    Write back when you have the opportunity. ----- Best regards! ----- Dwayne :shades:
  • vizyovizyo Member Posts: 35
    I was not told anything specific. They just told me to bring the car in at every 1000km, they will check the oil level and record it. They will repeat this 5 times. If the oil consumption is excessive, they will report it to Toyota. Then Toyota will give instructions to the service. What I learned from Toyota service is that everything is normal to them. They just find a way around it all the time. According to Toyota, burning 1 liter oil for every 1500km is normal. I first thought that it was a joke !! If this is the case, after driving 4000km, there will be no oil remaining in the engine. And this is still normal !!

    I never heard that a new car burns so much oil. There is also black smut on the exhaust that we usually see on very old cars. ABS system also makes very
    loud "thuck" noise twice at certain speeds. They said it was normal too !!

    I had too many other problems with this car since the first day I bought it. It has been a huge disappointment.

    I have now 12,000km on my camry. I do not know if Toyota service uses any additive in the oil. I use highest grade fuel (supreme) all the time. I change the oil at every 4000km.

    I do average 28mpg on highway driving. In the city it goes down to 18~19mpg, which is far from what Toyota advertises. All these numbers are with very decent driving.
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Good Morning Vizyo:
    The defective PCV valve can cause a vehicle to burn excessive oil!

    I average between 22 & 24 mpg in city driving with my XLE Camry, (I drive in a small town in New Jersey.) On the highway, I get 30mpg without any trouble.

    Are you using the correct weight of oil for this engine?

    Have the dealer perform a compression test on this engine. If the engine is burning this amount of oil, the spark plugs and the test will tell the story!

    How is the "power" in this engine? My V6 XLE will "snap your neck" if you accelerate hard when entering a highway!

    When coasting down a long hill on the highway and then accelerating do you see a cloud of smoke coming from the exhaust? ------ If this is the case, the oil is entering the combustion chamber through the valve guides.

    Write back when you have the opportunity. ------ Dwayne :shades:
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    before taking it in I'd check it myself and then drain a little more out just to get the job done.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    They have a tamper proof seal.
  • sunilvsunilv Member Posts: 26
    I have done all the TSB released for transmission issues. I have done the latest TSB and it is better now than ever before. But the problem for me I feel a jerk in 1st and 2nd shifts. I asked the Dealer to test it and they just reset the Computer memory and asked me to drive about 50 miles with stop and go in slow traffic roads. I thought when I did the TSB it will reset the memory. Will it?
    Now even after 150 miles my car jerks in 1st and 2nd shifts. My car is a 07 Camry 4 Cyli Auto Trans bought in 2006 Apr.

    Is there any problem with my torque conertor or transmission? Please help me anyone, bcos I want to ditch this car if it is going to be fixed after my warranty expires.
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Hi mcdawqq:
    QUESTION:
    Is the "tamper proof seal" on the oil stick, or on the crankcase plug? If it is on the "oil stick," how can the person check the oil on a long road trip?

    Best regards. ------------ Dwayne :shades: :confuse: ;):)
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Hi vizyo:
    Since I have the same vehicle, I am very interested in your excessive oil consumption problem. Please keep us informed as the process unfolds!
    Best regards. ----- Dwayne :shades: :confuse: ;):)
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    I don't know for sure, I would think both, because if I wanted to falsify the oil level, I could take oil out of the dipstick hole with one of those pump things.
  • vizyovizyo Member Posts: 35
    Hello Dwayne,
    I am now trying to do the first 1000km after the last oil change. I am expecting to take it to the service sometime next week. I have been precisely measuring the level myself as well. I really want to hear from other owners if they have the same problem.
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Good Morning Vizyo:
    I understand your concern with this vehicle. Monday, I had my oil and filter changed at the Toyota Dealership in Northern New Jersey in preparation for a road trip that I will be doing in September. Prior to taking the Camry to the dealership, I checked the oil level in the engine. There was 2,500 miles on this oil, and the oil level was at the "FULL MARK"! ------ ( I change my oil every 2,500 miles rather than at 5,000 miles as recommended. I take this action because I do not believe that Toyota has solved the "sludge issue" with their new engines. I have this service done at the dealer, because should this engine develop an issue all of my service records are in one place. This vehicle is also covered by a Toyota 6 year / 100,000 mile extended warranty. Should something happen to this engine that is "oil related" I would like to see a Toyota Factory Rep try to refuse warranty coverage!)

    BACK TO YOUR VEHICLE:

    You have a V6 Toyota that is using / burning one quart of oil every 1,500. miles. I have a V6 Toyota that is nor using / burning any oil between oil and filter changes that are done every 2,500 miles.

    If the Toyota Service Manager and / or the Toyota Factory Representative tells you that this is "normal" for V6 Toyota engines to use / burn one quart of oil every 1,500 miles oil, then that means that there must be something wrong with my V6 engine, because it does not use any oil! -------- QUESTIONS: ---- Should I now bring this condition to the attention of the service manager of my dealership, and quote your service people? ------- Does Toyota need to do something to my engine to get it to burn oil every 1,500 miles?

    All of us on this board know that it is NOT NORMAL for an engine to use one quart of oil every 1,500 miles. ----- (Let's not drink the corporate coolaid!) ------- I have a friend who owns a 27' Cabin Boat with a 7.4 V8 engine. He runs this boat at 3,400 RPM for hours, and never uses oil between oil and filter changes which are done every 50 hours. The average land based vehicle runs about 2,000 RPM, so if any engine was to use oil, it should be a boat engine!

    If you are going to keep this vehicle, I would put a "top of the line" Toyota extended warranty on this vehicle. You will need this coverage because this condition will only get worse over time!

    After the dealer completes the oil level test, ask them to perform a "compression test" and a "cylinder balance test". When they perform a "compression test" they will have to pull all the spark plugs. The "test" and the "condition of the spark plugs" will tell the story! -------- If your engine is using that much oil, your engine is suffering from a Piston Ring, or a Valve Guide, or a PVC issue,----- or a combination of all three!

    Please keep us informed.

    Best regards.
    Dwayne :shades: :confuse: ;):)
  • vizyovizyo Member Posts: 35
    Hello Dwayne,

    Thank you for your informative post.

    I forgot to mention that my camry is 2.4 LE 4 cylinder and I live in Canada.

    I will take a trip tomorrow and bring it to 1000km for the first check. I told the issue to my colleagues at work, they did not believe me !! No one heard that a new car burns so much oil.

    I am expecting to take the car to Toyota service this week. I will keep you informed.

    Best regards,
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Very unusual - this engine has been around since 2003, and is very reliable, no problems with oil burning. As with anything mechanical, there can be an error. Please let us know!
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    I have read many stories on many sites and it seems like all car manufacturers go by the same story. 1 quart per 1000 is not to much oil to burn. I too don't agree but I doubt you will get anywhere.
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Good Morning Vizyo:

    QUESTIONS:
    What weight oil is the dealer putting into your engine when they change the oil and filter?

    What is the "brand of oil" that is being used?

    Based on the "owner's manual" what weight oil is recommended for your engine?

    NOTE:
    In one of your other postings, you mentioned about a stain on the rear of your vehicle, as a result of the exhaust fumes from the burning oil. ----- Tell the dealer that this condition in not acceptable, because other four cylinder Toyota vehicles do not have this visible problem! ---- See how they react to that comment!

    SIDE BAR NOTE:
    As a result of this issue, Toyota is getting a lot of publicity ---- ALL NEGATIVE on this board! --------- I often wonder what goes through the heads of upper corporate management when it comes to an issue like this? ----- What does an engine cost Toyota? ----- It is obvious that this engine has a problem. ----- Send a new fully dressed engine to the dealer. ----- Exchange engine! ---- Get the customer back on the road! ----- Give the customer a top of the line extended Toyota warranty at no cost, and use the issue as a POSITIVE advertisement for the corporation and the product! ------- Send the old engine back to the factory to be exaimed. ----- DO NOT INCONVENIENCE THE CUSTOMER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! They purchase your products!

    Because of their delay, they have created an issue that will exist on the "net" for a very long time! ---- It is time for Toyota management to look at their policies from the customer's point of view. ----- Make it easy for the customer to do business with you! ----- When something goes wrong, admit the error, and fix the probelm ASAP!

    Best regards: ------------- Dwayne :shades: :confuse: ;):)
  • jetjockgjetjockg Member Posts: 80
    I got a 2007 4 cyl, Camry two years ago. They came out early. At that time this forum was loaded with transmission problem posts for ALL makes of Toyota, I had the delay and 40 mph drag problems. Toyota had no TSB's out yet. The dealer and two district managers said my problems were normal, After several calls to the 1-800 number in California and getting the same that's normal answer. I told them I have not been so mad at anyone since December 7, 1941. I got the first TBS about six months later, which did very little to fix the problem and the second TSB about a year later which basically increased the fuel mixture resulting in less delay and drag problems but poor gas mileage. There is nothing you can do about this problem except what you wrote in your post--ditch the car and never buy another Toyota!
  • foxwood_21foxwood_21 Member Posts: 31
    Thats exacly what i did --ditch the car and never buy another Toyota! I bought a 2008 Accord and never been happier
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    My '07 just had the TSB 068-08 done - car runs PERFECT, gas mileage the same as always on my normal work route - around 31 mpg.
  • paulwhitepaulwhite Member Posts: 2
    A tough one for anyone who might be able to help. The problem: No back-up lights in any scenario. Fuse checked. Bulbs checked. Additional strange info and associated problem: With any exterior drive lights selected, regardless of gear, the "R" reverse indicator lights up as well as the selected gear. With all exterior lights off, gear indicator works normally. Car starts and runs fine. Additional info: Turn knob / Light control assembly was recently changed with no correction. Also, Neutral Safety Switch also replaced without affect. I'd go with the back-up switch next, but the gear indicator problem throws me off the scent. What does anyone think? I appreciate your help.
    Paul
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    First, check and/or replace the 10A Gauge fuse. That is the fuse that powers the backup switch, which then feeds the rear lights.

    If that doesn't work let me know, and I'll give you two other things to check to isolate the problem further.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I have some time to write up the next steps, if that 10A fuse doesn't resolve your problem.

    The backup light power circuit is as follows....power comes from the battery, thru the 100A Alt fusible link, thru the 40A AM1 fuse, thru an ignition switch contact point, thru the 10A Gauge switch, thru the transmission switch, then back to the 2 rear bulbs.

    If you have a digital volt/ohmmeter great use it, if not go buy a cheap analog volt/ohmmeter, you can pick one up for maybe 10 bucks at a radioshack or autoparts chains.

    Assuming you have verified that the 10A gauge fuse is good, then go pull the connector on the transmission switch. With the VOLT meter setting, verify that the connector wire has 13volts on one wire (coming from the fuse), and 0 volts on the other wire (going to the rear bulbs). You'll need the ignition switch in the powered ON position. You'll need the plus Voltmeter lead on the wire, and minus Voltmeter lead on frame ground.

    Next check the switch itself, with the wire disconnected, and ignition power off. With the OHM meter setting, measure the resistance of the switch. Have someone shift the vehicle in and out of reverse. You should see the switch go from open (infinity resistance), to short (zero resistance).

    If you have power as you are supposed to, and the switch works as supposed to, then head back to the trunk and crawl in (hope you are on good terms with spouse or significant other, or can avoid locking yourself in the trunk). First inspect the wiring at the trunk hinge, sometimes on older vehicles the wire wears or frays as it is opened or closed, or as things are stuffed into the trunk. If the wiring looks good, then put your VOLTmeter on the wires to the reverse bulbs. With the ignition power on, and the transmission in Reverse, you should have 13volts on one of the wires with your plus Voltmeter lead, your minus Voltmeter lead should be on frame ground.

    Let me know what you find.

    By the way, that 10A Gauge fuse also supplies power to the gear selector indicator lights. On the surface, since those lights appear to be working (but not correctly), one might think that the 10A Gauge fuse is okay (and it may be). However, the ECM Computer is also connected to the 10A Gauge fuse (as well as other fuses). It may be that the 10A Gauge fuse is out, and the ECM is somehow incorrectly back feeding voltage on to that line.

    Let's hope your problem is the 10A fuse, the transmission switch, or wiring harness in the trunk.
  • rearwheeldriverearwheeldrive Member Posts: 140
    It sounds like your on the right track with indicator malfunction and no back-up lights

    Im suspect of the switch not working right and voltage going to both circuits of the dash indicator light and shorting out the reverse circuit lights.

    But where is the short? How do you get to the shifter switch? Is it on the tranny or under the console, connected to the shifter?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    The reverse sensing switch is on the transmission.

    If by some chance it is a wiring harness problem in the trunk, it might be an 'open' (internal wire broken), as opposed to a 'short' (wire insulation chaffed and internal wire rubbing across trunk metal shorting it out and blowing a fuse).
  • sewcoolsuesewcoolsue Member Posts: 11
    I just had my 2007 Camry's transmission replaced for the second time. That makes 3 transmissions (including the original) since I got my car in July '07. The transmission kept shifting roughly and jerking, and sometimes would even increase the RPMs by about 500 around 40-45 mph. Anyway, I don't know if the problem is fixed or not now because I just picked it up from the dealer 4 days ago and I'm still checking it out. The day I got it back it seemed to be shifting smoothly, but over the last day or two I think I'm noticeing a rougher shift around 25 and 40 mph again. I'm starting to think I'm paranoid about this car. Any advice? And by the way, please let me know if anyone's aware of transmission problems with the Camry. I'm almost afraid to bring it back to the dealer again (it's been there about 6 times already for this problem), but I may have to. By the way--when they replaced my replacement transmission this time, they also replaced the computer. They said a service bulletin came out saying they should do this.Unbelievable!
    I've always liked Toyota--I've got a '97 Avalon that's a dream car. I'm almost sorry I got this Camry. Feel free to reply with any suggestions.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Sue,
    Is this a 6 cylinder, 6 speed auto transmission you are having problems with? or the 4 cylinder, 5 speed auto transmission?
  • sewcoolsuesewcoolsue Member Posts: 11
    From last July (2007) when I purchased this car, I've had nothing but problems with the transmission. So far it's been in for service 6 times, and they've replaced my transmission twice (so this is my third transmission) and this last time (four days ago) they also replaced the computer.
    The problem has been rough shifting between gears, and jolting. When I first drove the car home 4 days ago, it felt OK. But now I think the shifting is becoming rough again. Maybe I'm just paranoid, but I'm giving my daughter a chance to drive it, and then next week I'm calling service again. That or possibly contacting the dealership's owner and telling him this car's a lemon. I don't want this problem continuing, and I need a car!!
  • sewcoolsuesewcoolsue Member Posts: 11
    It's a 6 cylinder, 6 speed, and I'm so frustrated I could scream!!
  • paulwhitepaulwhite Member Posts: 2
    Sir,
    Sorry about the delay. Airline guy called out for 4 day trip. Got the ohm meter out and ready and will check out the car as soon as I get home. Thanks again.
  • dwb2dwb2 Member Posts: 24
    You all will probably call me a liar but numbers don't lie. I've had both trans. updates done to my 2007 camry (4 cyl. 5 spd auto.) trans. never shifted better. gas mileage in town 28 mpg/ highway 35.5 mpg. I didn't believe it myself until I ran the same numbers on 5 straight tanks back and forth to work. Sorry to hear you are having problems.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    The I4 has a completely different transmission than the V6. The early (2007) V6 trannys had some problems.
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