Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II

nanuq · March 2002

My '96 Disco is silver and I've found that color is great when you have minor (ahem) mishaps. The skis slide down the side, the bike falls off... you get too close to a rock, you hit something and tear the roof racks off... that color hides the gouges really well. The aluminum beneath the paint is almost a perfect match.

My $.02 -Bob

ciccia2 · March 2002

I am debating if I should turn in 1999 Discoery II, or lease new Discovery III. My thinking is that 1999 version has all BMW components where 2002 version has not.

tincup47 · March 2002

The 1999 Discovery does not have all BMW components, about all it has is BMW switchgear. There is really no difference in most components between the 99 and 03 models. Ford has not substituted any parts at this time.

ciccia2 · March 2002

Thanks, Tincup47,

Is it worth to pay $24,500.00 for the 99 Discovery II with 45,000 mileages? The car is in a good shape with all packages that we need. I just do not know if the central differetial is included or not. The sales has been told us that 02 or 03 Discovery II has a lot improvement than 99. We should not trade in 99. Is there any opinion/suggestion for me?

rkoesler · April 2002

"ciccia2", the '99 DII is the same as the current one, except for some trim changes. The '99 does have the center differential, they all do, you just can't "lock" it - because it's not really necessary due to the traction control system. I have a 00 and absolutely love it - and have had zero problems. I would not offer more than $ 21,000. My loaded 2000 DII, originally costing $ 43,000, is now worth only $ 23,000 trade-in. Good luck!

modendahl · April 2002

I have a problem that I thought was kind of strange: My 2000 Disco II is now 18 months old and has developed some rust spots on the back door in a sort of grid pattern. The area (roughly 20 inches wide by 8 inches tall) is located on the rear door where it is hidden or at least partially obscured by the spare tire/wheel. I didn't notice it until I was removing the spare to change the wiper blade.

It will be going to the dealer tomorrow and I'm sure it will be taken care of under the warranty - but it makes me wonder for the future. I live in an area that gets some snow (Illinois) but not a great deal and I shouldn't be getting any body corrosion at this point. Aren't all of the doors supposed to be made of aluminum anyway?

Anybody out there have the same problem?

nanuq · April 2002

It happens when the dissimilar metals (steel frame and aluminum panels) come into contact. Usually they are separated by some kind of dielectric. At the base of my rear door openings I have rust showing, and I need to have it addressed as well. It hasn't penetrated the body panels, so I don't know if it's covered. But when I open either rear door it is glaringly obvious. Tincup? What's the story? 69k miles, she's a '96.

-Bob

dl7265 · April 2002

Drove a 2001 DiscoII SD with 8k on the clock today priced at 25.5k...

A few things the dash/windshield had some sort of wind noise or something loose ? any ideas ?

Passenger seat seemed a little loose, like rocking up and down a little ..

With the pending 2003 released, anyone thing this deal is a bad one ? If we like it might up-grade in 2004 . But for now this one is about 8500.00 less than new with low miles ...

o yeah LR web site i cant find how much the Disco can tow ? im talking a boat here.

opinions appreciated please
DL

mrwhipple · April 2002

Sounds like a good deal. They should be able to address those items you listed. Is it one of those carmax deals?

tincup47 · April 2002

Towing capacity is as follows:
Trailers w/o Brakes
1,650 lbs both on and off road
Trailers with Brakes
5,500 lbs on road High Range
2,200 lbs off road High Range
7,700 lbs on road Low Range
2,200 lbs off road Low Range
Max tongue weight
550 Lbs

dxdang · April 2002

tincup,

If I buy an extended warranty from Land Rover do I have to buy it from the dealer that sold me the vehicle or can I just go to any Land Rover Centres? Also, will extended warranty be honor at any Land Rover Centres or only at the place that it was purchase? Another note, my car was purchase at Cadillac dealership is Sacramento, CA. that sales Land Rover. I am debating if I should go back to the dealer in Sacramento or just to my current bay area Land Rover Centres that have been servicing my vehicle for the past 2 1/2 years.
I want to get the best price for the policy.

Thanks in advance
Daniel

dl7265 · April 2002

thanks for the info.

yeah carmax deals, they wont budge on price but offered me 2k OVER book on my car..I dont know if im uncomfortable buying from them or not ,they cant tell me where the cars came from, but have ran carfax reports the cars are clean.No Houston flood cars..

Think i would take a soaking if i traded the 2001 in a year or 2 ?

thanks
DL

nanuq · April 2002

I'd say go with the Carmax deal if the service history is clean (available from any Rover dealer by VIN).

I bought my '96 Disco used, and it turns out (discovered after the fact) that it came from a car rental place! Holy smokes, would I have bought it knowing that? Absolutely not. But these dang Rovers are tough... I had some teething problems but once sorted they've stayed fixed. Absolutely ZERO trouble in 3 years now, with much much hard use. And that was with God-Knows-WHAT kind of break-in and abuse.

Gotta hand it to the boys at Solihull, they build a tough truck.

Regards, -Bob

kemmons · April 2002

Tincup- I saw you addressed an earlier concern re: towing. If a trailer weight comes close to the 5,500 lbs, am I going to be in trouble? The tongue weight is about 495 lbs.

My truck also began showing some rust this winter on the inside of one of the doors. My dealer is going to fix it no charge. They said the truck is covered through the company for any rust up to 6 yrs old.

Kim

tincup47 · April 2002

As long as it doesn't exceed 5500 lbs you should have no trouble.

dl7265 · April 2002

After over 3 years on Edmunds, this has to be the most helpful thread.

Ill obtain some VIN's and run them.Also they mentioned that since they are owned by circuit city they can install a CD changer for about 299, Any one have a price on the part ? or dificulty doing it myself ?

thanks
DL

modendahl · April 2002

I just had the 30K service done on my Disco II and the dealership told me that I needed new brake pads (expected) and that Land Rover STRONGLY recommends replacing the rotors at the same time (not expected). They insist that they should not be resurfaced and the only thing that should happen is that they should be completely replaced with gen LR parts. Something to do with soft pads designed for heavy off-road use and the weight of the truck.

Did I just get smoked out of $575????? Part of the great thing about buying my Disco II was that scheduled maintainance was included and I didn't expect to shell out this soon. I do understand that I didn't just buy any old car and this thing needs special attention but this doesn't seem right to me.

dl7265 · April 2002

While i dont own a Disco yet . I do own a 3 series and have found the same applies, it was allways my thought that if you changed the pads timely there was no need for the rotors to warp or wear and need replacement. I ve been TOLD that those great brakes are in part to haveing VERY soft rotors as well.
I guess the good news is its a simple procedure and i can purchase the parts for my car for about $150.00, So i dont know if u got soaked or not....

DL

modendahl · April 2002

My wife just picked up an 02' 325i two weeks ago!

I agree that regular changing of the pads should prevent changing the rotors but in this case the LR service director was trying to explain to me that both need to be replaced each time the pads wear down.

Seems a little excessive to me. I would also have done the work myself but it was one of those things where my truck was up on the lift and dis-assembled when they explained it and I said go ahead and do it.

nanuq · April 2002

Not having all the details and having not been there, I can't comment on the service manager's statement. HOWEVER, I do know the rotors need to be replaced when they wear to a minimum thickness.

I replace my pads every 13-15,000 miles (when they wear thru), I'm on my 4th set, and still have the original rotors. They're fine, no warps, and the thing stops like it's got the anchor from the Titanic. However, it's prudent of me to get a gauge on the rotors soon and measure their thickness. If they're worn thin then it's time for new ones. But not until then.

If you're told to replace the rotors AND pads at every interval... something's wrong. If your rotors were indeed warped or badly scored then it's another story. Perhaps that's what happened?

You can/should do the brake jobs yourself. It's simple, and gives you an understanding and appreciation of your truck... these things are tanks! And it's very gratifying to be able to say "I did that". All it takes is the provided lug wrench, a pair of pliers, and a box wrench to fit the brake bleed nipples. Simple.

Good luck! Talk to your service manager and see what was wrong with the original rotors to demand their replacement. If you don't get a good answer... find another shop.

Regards, -Bob

ywilson · April 2002

Well first I must say that this is a really good place to get information. I am going to buy a DII from Carmax next May. I am saving for the down payment now. I have read this entire thread and I am hooked. I am going to start test driving this week. Does anyone here have any knowledge on buying a vehicle from Carmax? I have been on thier web site and have found a few Disco's I like. The price seems right for the year and mileage I have been looking at. I will be buying a 2000 or 2001 vehicle. I usually do my own maintenance so that is not a big problem for me. I am wanting to swap out the fluids for synthetics. Does anyone have any experience with this? I now drive a Durango which has been totally trouble free for 56,000 miles. I am going to keep it as a project truck. It is a 2000. How is the Disco on long road trips? I do alot of cross country driving and need something that would be comfortable as well. Thanks for the info and a great site.

sbcooke · April 2002

I am not a LR owner, but think they are cool so I read this board a lot. Never posted here, but reading the brake rotor posts feel that I may be able to add value.

Your rotors should not need to be replaced. If worn a little, or slightly warped, they can be re-surfaced at least once if not twice. Re-surfacing is about $100. 30K miles isn't the worst, but I think your service provider was not being honest with you. You shouldn't need new rotors, and at that low of miles, at a minimum (unless severely warped, you would know by squeaking with good pads), they could be easily and cheaply re-surfaced. My trooper has 27K and both rotors and pads are in great shape. Your dealer mentioned heavy off-roading? I buy the soft pad bit, that shouldn't effect the rotors, how much off-roading do you do? Some shops have different "gauges" for measuring thickness. Try MIDAS vs. a local "reputable" shop. I have heard, everything is shot, pads and rotors (MIDAS) to all you need is new pads (local shop) $25.

div2 · April 2002

I know that BMW rotors will usually last through two sets of pads under normal use. I would assume that LR rotors have a minimum thickness spec.- and if you aren't on that ragged edge a simple pad swap will suffice.

dl7265 · April 2002

All i can tell you is they are certainly no haggle. But i got a VERY high offer on my trade, They told me they allready ran the car fax report as well ,id would just like to see it. Im going for the lowest mile one i can find.

Modendahl: Congrads on the 3er its a great car ! looks like you will have best of both worlds now.

DL

2001intrepid · April 2002

Hi, I'm not new to Edmunds TownHall, but I am new to this particular post. heh... anyways, i was considering buying an all wheel drive DSM until i found out some horrifying information from fellow edmunds town hall memebers. I am now considering a late model Discovery/II, and I was wondering if there are any commonly occuring problems, if so what are they, also is there anything i should know about, strange oil change intervals, etc?

Thanks a bunch...

m32thomp · April 2002

Hi, I am also considering a certified 99 Discovery II SE through a Land Rover dealer that has 21000 miles. It looks great but I am a little concerned by the previous information listed on this site. Has anyone experienced a "knocking" when they put the gas on? I test drove a 99 at CarMax and a LR dealer and both had some sort of "knock". I did not hear the "knock" when I test drove a 2002.

Any information is appreciated.
Thanks
MT

expert1 · April 2002

I hope that with Nanuqs' and my comments most of your fears will be calmed with respect to LR ownership. Maybe most of the fears are being generated at the local LR service centers (rotor replacements, knocks, special lubes etc.), but come on now!, it is just a SUV. My 2000 DII has been trouble free (except with losing my radio) for over 15K. Its' oil changes are not special, one extra quart, the oil filters are stock Ph 16s, the oil in the differentials do have to be changed at 7500 miles, but the next service is at 90K. Ford has even now been advertising the "special" synthetic oil for its' rear ends now. My brakes are checked at every tire rotation, which LR says don't do, and are still at 80%. I even have occasion to run regular unleaded from time to time with no "knocking" at all. The only noises that take getting used to is the ABS system firing up in the morning, but that ceases in about a minute. The only complaints that I get is from my kids. The rear seats are a little too stiff and they make them sit up straight with their belts on. (no unsafe lounging as with a Chevy or Dodge.

dl7265 · April 2002

i did not notice any knocking, but there was some noise where the windshield meets the dash i could not locate..

happy hunting,
DL

nanuq · April 2002

Is it possible the climate control was set on recirc? When I have mine that way ('96 D1) it makes The Enormous Sucking Sound from there atop the dash. Just an idea.

stever · April 2002

New Discovery echoes good looks of Range Rover

Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

expert1 · April 2002

I also had windshield noise with my rig. After researching it and trying to get LR to fix it on warranty I was informed that the windshield had been replaced before I purchased it at 6K. The non-LR dealer used the old rubber, a after-market windshield (LR wanted $914.00), and reused the plastic trim rivets. Luckily I got a ding in it on the freeway before my trip to the dealer so I ended up calling insurance and getting it replaced with all LR equipment for $250.00. Now no noise and all LR.

gyao · April 2002

I live in the DC area, and the dealer just quoted me 6000 for a bunch of problems. I wanted to see if anyone in the area know of a reputable mechanic for Discovery's that might be able to give me a second opinion on all the issues. I have a 95 and I know the blue book value is only 5000 to 6000. They're telling me I have a leak in my oil pan, manifold, cover seal, coolant leak, transfer box leak, power steering hose leak, need new exhaust system... Any info would be greatly appreciated!

expert1 · April 2002

That I lived in the DC area gyao, I could use the money. It sounds like all of your problems are minor. Gaskets, hoses and mufflers. Big deal!! Unless something major is wrong (coolant leak is a cracked head or block) I think you can beat this estimate by a ton. Everything I have seen on my rig is pretty standard and any good ASE mechanic should have no problem and at a reasonable repair cost. Parts are a little higher, but standard filters, hoses, brake pads, are priced very fair. If you are not mechaically inclined, facing and $6000 repair bill for a $6000 car, maybe it is time to donate your rig to a good cause in DC. I no longer resale my cars. I get my mileage out of them and take the deduction.

gyao · April 2002

Thanks expert1. I'm definitely going to see what another mechanic will charge for it all, and will get done the bare minimum. A little muffler noise doesn't bother me (that was $2500 according to the dealer). The thought of resale is too much of a pain to bother with.

nanuq · April 2002

Don't you know that's the factory installed Undercarriage Corrosion Prevention (UCP) system in action? Works great, eh? *grin*

Not to worry. Just go around with a socket wrench and an assortment of sizes and torque up the cover bolts. Most likely they're a little loose. You may have degrading cork gaskets but probably not. Use wrist torque only to tighten, like around 15-20 ft-lb. Any more might deform the cover being sealed.

As for the coolant leak... it may be a hose or freeze plug too. Have them point out where the leak originates. Does it make a puddle? You can chase it down yourself.

Remember this is not a rocket-science engine. Any good mechanic can work on it.

Good luck! -Bob

gyao · April 2002

I've just become inspired to buy a book on fixing all this crud, and to at least do what I can myself. Sounds like it could be fun.

ywilson · April 2002

I don't have a LR yet but being an ex SAAB driver I know your pain. Look in the yellow pages. There are some good mechanics that specialize in LR's. I think that Virginia may yiels more results but Maryland has a couple I believe. Thier prices will be alot lower and you can get good work at most of these. Good Luck.

denver8 · April 2002

Has anybody had any experience with replacing shocks. What are some good aftermarket brands?

nanuq · April 2002

Take a look at www.discoweb.org Lots of good info over there.

tomcatbubba · April 2002

I am considering leasing a 2002/03 Discovery and am wondering if anyone can tell me a little about their experiences. Also, I'll be moving to Lemoore California and am wondering if anyone knows of any authorized service centers in that area. I'd hate to have warranty work done and have to drive an hour or so to Fresno.

futurebeachbum · April 2002

Just took delivery of a 2002 Discovery. It is the SE model, Westminster edition with the Harman Kardon audio/navigation system (way cool), added brush bar, Hella 3000 driving lights and rear ladder.
Did a lot of research and it came down to this. This vehicle has character...in spades! There are SUV's that are more sophisticated, more powerful, better riding (at least on road), better ergonomically, and get better gas mileage. But most of them are extremely booooring with an identity crisis, is it a car, a mini van, or an off road vehicle?
The Discovery is unique in it's design and character. Yes it's quirky in some ways, but that's part of the charm. It's also solid, fun to drive and knows exactly what it is....a Land Rover.

You either "get" them or you don't!

kbowen · April 2002

2001 SE7 w/ACE, 10K. I've seen a lot other posts further up about the noise and thumping experienced when panic stopping on a rough surface. I, at first, thought it was abnormal, but was assured it was not. It is something I got used to. However, after bringing the truck in for the ABS ECU recall, I notice that it is much "tamer" when stopping on rough surfaces. It seems quicker and is certainly smoother and less noisy. Has anyone else noticed this?

Still having problems with that pesky ACE light. Intermittently, a steady yellow comes on. Three trips to the dealer and it is still coming on now and then. When it comes on, I stop and restart and it may not come on for another 500 miles or so. The dealer says it can find no problems and is going to have a factory rep look at it when in town later this month. The system seem to work fine even when the light is on. I personally think it's old Lord Lucas just letting me know he is still around; it's like a ghost thing.

nanuq · April 2002

Apparently you haven't perfected your LLD (Lord Lucas Disclaimer) yet. Once that's accomplished, many of your electrical weirdnesses will vanish.

On a lighter note, there may be a simple solution to your ECU light weirdness. Granted I have a SI Disco and it's doubtless laid out differently than the SII... but under the bonnet (quaint, eh wot?) on the SI there's a fuse box. It's on the passenger ("off", starboard) side, about midpoint of the engine, level with the intake manifold, it's perhaps 6" by 2" black plastic. Coming in the underside are myriad large electrical cables. This is where the BIG voltage/currents come into the electrical system. From here they distribute to the ECUs etc.

Being under the bonnet it's exposed to frequent large temperature swings, dust, moisture, muck, you name it. Expanding/contracting with temperature allows nastiness to get into the connections inside that box, which produces poor "noisy" electrical supply to the ECUs, which makes the ECUs very unhappy. Ever see a home PC without a filter in its power supply? Of course not. They RELY on clean power to operate correctly.

The solution is shade-tree-mechanic simple: pull the cover of the box, remove/clean/replace each fusible link (I use a pencil eraser to clean down in the holes) and all electrical connections. Reconnect everything, button her up, drive away happily with a cheery wave.

It took me THREE YEARS to find this trick, and it fixed all my electrical problems.

Good luck, -Bob

kbowen · April 2002

I'm "up" for cleaning the connections, but first want to make sure we are talking about the same problem. It has been the ACE light (not ecu) that has been coming on and I'm not sure the routing would be the same as you note. Advise.

tincup47 · April 2002

The ACE light is triggered by an ECU also. The Discovery series II has ECU's for the ABS/SLS system, ACE system, Engine Management System, Transmission, SRS system, and Body Control ECU.

nanuq · April 2002

Tincup is, of course, right. That's what I was thinking when I wrote... there are a bazillion computers and they each want nice clean power. What's the single point of failure for all these seemingly disparate systems? The fuse block.

It may be that they moved it somewhere else on the DII, but that could still be the culprit. You might have to hunt for it... but if it's under the hood, you might do well to clean it just for grins. It only takes about 15 minutes on my DI.

On a seemingly separate issue, the rear windows on my DI refuse to go up and down until they get happy (after driving a ways). Someone sent me photos showing where the circuit board is that controls them; it's behind the glovebox. They sent photos showing where there were cold solder connections on their board, and a touch with the solder iron sorted it. Perhaps... the same could be true of your ACE circuit board?? Just a thought.

It seems these are still simple problems and easy to fix. It just takes electrical skill now, not only a screwdriver and dwell meter.

Best regards, -Bob

expert1 · April 2002

That our forum has dried up with any reports of failures, quality issues, dealer complaints etc. Is there anyone out there that has any problems with their LR that this forum needs to be aware of? I sure don't. Mine looks, feels and runs like a top. Good mileage, awesone road feel, presence, safety and dependibility. Ok, you say it is the new DII, low miles (16K), driven to the store and back by 50+ drivers. Hey, we have had fun in it this winter. Up the slopes, through the mud and in many a viscious storm. All I can say, stealing this from Chevy, built "Like a Rock."

kkone · April 2002

Does anyone know if there is going to be a price increase for the 2003 Disco? I would like to buy one as soon as they get here which I believe is July 02.

mrwhipple · April 2002

Does anyone know what the weight increase may be with the 4.6 engine, in the '03 disco? What will be the mileage specs? Just curious.

mrwhipple · April 2002

saw a 2003 Discovery ll & Range Rover on the road today. I thought both weren't being released until July. One was in front of the other. Both looked nice.

Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II

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