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Comments
When I removed the thermostat, I noticed that the hose that it is attached to is not to the upper radiator hose, like it is supposed to be, but to the lower radiator hose. The upper radiator hose bypasses the thermostat housing and connects to the back of the thermostat housing. My understanding is that the thermostat is supposed to be facing the radiator, and attached to the upper hose. Is this an error made by Mercury. Has anyone else had this type of problem and been able to solve it or had someone solve it? Please, let me know. Thanx in advance for help and advice. :sick:
2 years ago, I DID replace the Alternator when it went bad.... by chance I found an unused alternator on eBAY for $30 and I paid a "sidewalk mechanic" $100 to install it right in my driveway - in mid winter no less. For comparison, this would cost approx. $500 at the dealer.
Thanx in advance for the help.
When the Cougar is running hot, give it a good bash on the top of the dashboard right over the Temp. Gauge, it's tricky cause the Dash is curved, but you'll notice that if you bash it good a couple times, the needle might jump right to the correct spot.
You have added some description of your problem (Chugging, engine light flashing/staying on), but that still is pretty vague.... can you describe more?
Our 1999 Cougar was "bucking" hard! but only after driving normally for a good 10 minutes or so, and it really felt like a bad transmission (which I had already ostensibly rebuilt twice). It turns out I only needed to replace a $45 Sensor, I think it was the Neutral Safety Switch or Manual Lever Position Sensor. The dealer wanted to charge me $150 to replace this, but I did it myself in the driveway in about an hour. FREE, and is totally solved the problem.
At this point, I am just worried that if the problem gets much worse I will end up stalled on the side of the freeway when it's below zero outside! My uncle is the one who thought it was a bad cam sensor, but we really have no idea. I have been searching for answers/possible avenues all day but I am planning on bringing it in for an $85 diagnostics test today to see if we can figure out the real problem, then hopefully I can just take care of it myself without paying $200+ for the mechanic to do it.
Look, same thing was happening to my 1999 (200,000 miles).. I first did a diagnostic OBD check, then I brought it to Pep Boys brand new Garage; they charged me 100 for a diagnostic check, then they said there was an exhaust sensor disconnected. They hooked it up and told me to run it for a while... well I did.. After 10 minutes it started bucking again - HARD bucking, it actually felt like someone was bumping me from behind, that hard. So I just told myself I would research it myself since these guys couldn't do it. I searched all over the web, read everything I could (took 1 day or so). Found people complaining about the same thing and the result was they replaced the sensor that is directly under the thermostat in the engine. It is basically a triangle shaped sensor that is difficult to get at, you need a long socket extension. You'll have to take out the thermostat, push the two hoses aside and there it is... basically just left of the battery.
I replaced it myself (and I'm an I.T. tech, not a car mechanic). It took about 2 hours cause I was working slow.
http://www.newcougar.org/forums/problems/104767-trans-slipping-but-not-when-shif- ting-2.html
Now that we have done it (2 times, actually), I tend to say it is not TOO big of a job: intake, upper intake manifold, lower intake manifold, motor mount, power steering, AC, crank pulley, alternator (?) (and maybe other stuff I forgot) have to come off to get the cylinder heads off. While off, we had them flow tested and 'squared' (just in case they got warped), and a valve job done. I forgot what the shop estimate was, but my guess is $1,500 or there about.
We just come off an engine swap, which is not that much more work!
That would be the first (and easy) thing to do, since you already replaced the spark plugs (hopefully using the double platinum ones).
Did you also get codes for running lean (on one or both banks)?
I would assume not, since a new starter did not fix the problem.
I know that you have to press the brake pedal to close a relay to get voltage to the starter, AND the shifter has to be in P or N.
since no voltage gets to the starter, I would check on those circuits (brake pedal switch/wire/relay, shifter position switch/wire/relay.
If those are ok and want to send voltage to the starter motor, I am sure there is a big fat relay that handles the full amps of the starter. If that relays gets voltage (from the ECU/PCM) to close, its either the relay or the wires from the relay to the starter. If it does NOT get voltage to close, its in the circuits before (brake switch, shifter).
So check codes regulalry (get OBDII code reader cheap from ebay).
Here are the codes:
Re: Engine codes
________________________________________
P1000 OBD-II Monitor Testing Incomplete
P1001 KOER Test Cannot Be Completed
P1039 Vehicle Speed Signal Missing or Improper
P1051 Brake Switch Signal Missing or Improper
P1100 Mass Air Flow Sensor Intermittent
P1101 Mass Air Flow Sensor out of Self-Test Range
P1112 Intake Air Temperature Sensor Intermittent
P1116 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is out of Self-Test Range
P1117 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Intermittent
P1120 Throttle Position Sensor out of range
P1121 Throttle Position Sensor Inconsistent with Mass Air Flow Sensor
P1124 Throttle Position Sensor out of Self-Test Range
P1125 Throttle Position Sensor Intermittent
P1127 Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater not on During KOER Test
P1128 Heated Oxygen Sensor Signals reversed
P1129 Heated Oxygen Sensor Signals reversed
P1130 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Adaptive Fuel Limit - Bank No. 1
P1131 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 1
P1132 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 1
P1135 Ignition Switch Signal Missing or Improper
P1137 Lack of Downstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 1
P1138 Lack of Downstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 1
P1150 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Adaptive Fuel Limit - Bank No. 2
P1151 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 2
P1152 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 2
P1157 Lack of Downstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 2
P1158 Lack of Downstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 2
P1220 Series Throttle Control fault
P1224 Throttle Position Sensor B out of Self-Test Range
P1230 Open Power to Fuel Pump circuit
P1231 High Speed Fuel Pump Relay activated
P1232 Low Speed Fuel Pump Primary circuit failure
P1233 Fuel Pump Driver Module off-line
P1234 Fuel Pump Driver Module off-line
P1235 Fuel Pump Control out of range
P1236 Fuel Pump Control out of range
P1237 Fuel Pump Secondary circuit fault
P1238 Fuel Pump Secondary circuit fault
P1250 Lack of Power to FPRC Solenoid
P1260 Theft Detected - Engine Disabled
P1270 Engine RPM or Vehicle Speed Limiter Reached
P1288 Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor out of Self-Test Range
P1289 Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Signal Greater Than Self-Test Range
P1290 Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Signal Less Than Self-Test Range
P1299 Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Detected Engine Overheating Condition
P1309 Misfire Detection Monitor not enabled
P1351 Ignition Diagnostic Monitor circuit Input fault
P1352 Ignition Coil A - Primary circuit fault
P1353 Ignition Coil B - Primary circuit fault
P1354 Ignition Coil C - Primary circuit fault
P1355 Ignition Coil D - Primary circuit fault
P1356 Loss of Ignition Diagnostic Module Input to PCM
P1358 Ignition Diagnostic Monitor Signal out of Self-Test Range
P1359 Spark Output circuit fault
P1364 Ignition Coil Primary circuit fault
P1380 VCT Solenoid Valve circuit Short or Open
P1381 Cam Timing Advance is excessive
P1383 Cam Timing Advance is excessive
P1390 Octane Adjust out of Self-Test Range
P1400 Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor circuit Low Voltage
P1401 Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor circuit High Voltage
P1403 Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor Hoses Reversed
P1405 Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor circuit Upstream Hose
P1406 Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor circuit Downstream Hose
P1407 EGR No Flow Detected
P1408 EGR Flow out of Self-Test Range
P1409? EGR Vacuum Regulator circuit malfunction
P1409? Electronic Vacuum Regulator Control circuit fault
P1410 EGR Barometric Pressure Sensor VREF Voltage
P1411 Secondary Air is not being diverted
P1413 Secondary Air Injection System Monitor circuit Low Voltage
P1414 Secondary Air Injection System Monitor circuit High Voltage
P1442 Secondary Air Injection System Monitor circuit High Voltage
P1443 Evaporative Emission Control System - Vacuum System - Purge Control Solenoid or Purge Control Valve fault
P1444 Purge Flow Sensor circuit Input Low
P1445 Purge Flow Sensor circuit Input High
P1450 Inability of Evaporative Emission Control System to Bleed Fuel Tank
P1451 EVAP Control System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
P1452 Inability of Evaporative Emission Control System to Bleed Fuel Tank
P1455 Substantial Leak or Blockage in Evaporative Emission Control System
P1460 Wide Open Throttle Air Conditioning Cutoff circuit malfunction
P1461 Air Conditioning Pressure Sensor circuit Low Input
P1462 Air Conditioning Pressure Sensor circuit high Input
P1463 Air Conditioning Pressure Sensor Insufficient Pressure change
P1464 ACCS to PCM High During Self-Test
P1469 Low Air Conditioning Cycling Period
P1473 Fan Secondary High with Fans Off
P1474 Low Fan Control Primary circuit
P1479 High Fan Control Primary circuit
P1480 Fan Secondary Low with Low Fans On
P1481 Fan Secondary Low with High Fans On
P1483 Power to Cooling Fan Exceeded Normal Draw
P1484 Variable Load Control Module Pin 1 Open
P1500 Vehicle Speed Sensor Intermittent
P1501 Programmable Speedometer & Odometer Module/Vehicle Speed Sensor Intermittent circuit-failure
P1502 Invalid or Missing Vehicle Speed Message or Brake Data
P1504 Intake Air Control circuit malfunction
P1505 Idle Air Control System at Adaptive Clip
P1506 Idle Air Control Over Speed Error
P1507 Idle Air Control Under Speed Error
P1512 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed
P1513 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed
P1516 Intake Manifold Runner Control Input Error
P1517 Intake Manifold Runner Control Input Error
P1518 Intake Manifold Runner Control fault - Stuck Open
P1519? Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open
P1520? Intake Manifold Runner Control circuit fault
P1519? Intake Manifold Runner Control fault - Stuck Closed
P1520? Intake Manifold Runner Control fault
P1530 Open or Short to A/C Compressor Clutch circuit
P1537 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open
P1538 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open
P1539 Power to A/C Compressor Clutch circuit Exceeded Normal Current Draw
P1549 Intake M
I replaced the EGR valve but the misfire still exists. The CEL has not come on again yet but probably will eventually. Any suggestions?
My daughter has a 1995 Cougar. For a few days her key was not turning and she had to wiggle it and pray to get it to turn. Today when she did get it to turn it not only DIDNT start the car (good battery and started been tested) its making a grinding type noise. HELP please!!!!!!
The grinding noise is worse: we had this issue, put a new starter in, but didn't help. Over time, it got so bad that we had to 'wiggle' the car back and forth (transmission in 'drive' to move the gears of the flywheel a bit to allow the start teeth to mesh in. That worked for a few month, progressively getting worse (since all the grinding naturally wears the teeth of the flywheel/flex plate out even more).
At the end, we had to pull the engine out and replace the flywheel/flex plate.
You can start with a new starter (already quite some work to remove parts to get to the starter), hoping its the starter.
When we pulled the motor, we decided to install a new motor at that time (much less miles; ours had already 140,000 mls on it).
Oh: is it really a 95 Cougar (old style)? My notes refer to the newer style (after 1998) !!!!
I did eventually have to replace the lock on my 2001 Cougar. Any good locksmith can order that lock. If you go to Ford they only have a set of all locks on all doors for about $300.
Any suggestions? Thanks.
As for the battery, i'd say it needs replacement.
The moisture in the exhaust could be a leaking head gasket. Take out all the spark plugs and see if one of them is wet or if water comes out of one of them as someone else cranks the engine. Look closely at the oil fill cap for white foamy moisture, another indication of a gasket leak.