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Comments
I'd suggest a Fidanza Lightweight Flywheel, and a ClutchMaster Stage 1 (I think its FX100 or something).
I've driven my '08 Tiburon for 12000~15000 miles in the past 4~6 months, and I've had no problems with the clutch at all. Also, I do not suggest going to a Hyundai dealership service center for repair. they destroyed my door, and took no responsibility until I threatened to go to the papers, which got me a discounted price to repair. Go to a reputable Auto/Body repair shop, no headaches.
And just a general info, the Tiburon (from '03~'08) is a pull-type clutch, which no one (not even Hyundai "certified" mechanics) seem to remember, and screws with the clutch system, and eventually the transmission will follow suit.
Its unfortunate that people dramatize 1 issue as the most deathly important thing. Hyundai has improved from the past years and its still a young company, when it comes to the service department.
They are never going to do anything about your clutch problem, even when you go to the Hyundai Customer Assistance program they tell you about in your car manual when you bought the car)
They will insist it is because you do not drive the car properly. Mine happened at less than 9K miles and then again around 17K miles later. Don't listen to any of these messages saying you do not know how to drive the car properly or it is not a big problem. It's a HUUUUGGGEEE problem.
In my last 2 messages I mentioned I took mine the second time to Kottmann Transmission. The manager of that particular one contacted the sales rep whose company makes the clutch/ fly wheel for Hyundai. That rep told Kottmann they know there is a problem with the parts and they are working on a replacement part that will cause this to happen.
Non the less, my advice is to do as I did on the second brake down.....contact the Better Business Bureau. They do not monkey around and do not take any SHI... from the big companies. They were not able to get Hyundai to repair the car at no cost. However, they gave me good advice...be persistant, do not back down. They told me my last alternative was to allow BBB to set up a legal meeting between Hyundai Repair and myself with an independent arbitrator (no cost to you) who would hear/read all your documentation on the car and also Hyundai's side, and then make a final decision which both sides would have to abide by. I told BBB yes, set up the aribtration hearing. An hour after that call, BBB called back and said Hyundai wanted to settle the matter at the full cost of my repair I had with Kottmann Transmission.
In my initial correspondance to the BBB I outlined all the normal BS of what I had been going through with Hyundai, how many miles the first occurance was, and the number of miles of the second occurance. I had also included ever email that was on this forum regarding the same problem with the Tiburon clutch/flywheel. I also included the articles that talked about the class action law suit on this matter from 5 years ago.
They will listen to you and do everything to help you...believe it! As I mentioned in one of my other postings, they will only help you if you still own the vehicle.
If it fails...try a Clutchmaster FX100 (stage 1 for stock engine with stock power) and a Fidanza lightweight flywheel....a lot of people in the tiburon community (in a forum) have no issues with these, and their tiburons range from the RD to the current GK models
I think this '03 and on Hyundai Tiburon(with a few mild body changes here and there) holds up pretty well body-design-wise against the new Genesis Coupe, too. Though I have yet to see a Genesis Coupe in person to compare against the Tiburon.
But this clutch premature wear-out problem is ridiculous. Shoulda been cleared up by now, I've heard of these clutch failures here on Edmunds from what seems like 2004 on to now! :sick:
2021 Kia Soul LX 6-speed stick
I think the only way to ge hyundai to own up is to go to better business bureau. I am 67 years old been driving stick shifts forever and have never had aclutch go out till now, I know they have a problem with design
Charge me 520.00 to tell me it was my clutch. they applied it to my repair for a total of app 1700.00 . You want to buy it?
I HAVE a solution..THE solution.
I personally own a 2004 Tiburon 2.0L, with a 5 speed so I speak with experience.
I also have spoke to other fellow Tibby owners with the same issue and figured adding my info in this forum might be useful.
When I bought my Tib in Feburary 2006, it had 16K miles on the clock.
I also noticed when I drove it, the clutch didnt feel right.. Like nothing Ive ever driven, and Ive owned many manual transmission based cars.
The clutch action made a novice drive like a pro, and an expert drive like a novice.
I was thinking something was off immediately.
Hyundai made the clutch smooth, but at a cost.
Slipping on every shift!
Now on to the solution.
There is a little part located in your clutch slave cylinder called a "delay valve".
The part has a small hole in it, and a spring.
The clutch slave cylinder in and of itself is pretty simple.
Dont confuse it with the clutch MASTER cylinder located on the cars firewall.
Just remove the slave cylinder, unbolt the side with the hose on it, and you should see it, (the valve) and a small spring.
Once these are out, and you have properly installed and done an air bleed of the slave prepare to be amazed!
The car will now shift properly, with positive shifts, NO slipping,better fuel economy, more power, and perfect clutch feel!
TRUST ME.. This works perfectly and is totally safe.
My car has over 40K on it now and not a single lick of trouble.
I cant remember the name of the site I found this info, but it was very new at the time, and im sure I would have found this solution myself given alittle time.
I give kudos to the guy that found out the solution before I did.
If I had the link, there is a full, photographs and all, website that has step by step of how to do this.
But, you can also do it simply by buying a service manual.
This is the absolute best "Mod" you can do for your Tibby.
I wish Hyundai would just admit to the issue, as the solution is so painfully easy to solve its kind of silly.
Say goodbye to clutch wear, and hello to a car with added performance you havent met yet.
Word of caution.. If you have replaced your clutch, or have a badly worn clutch, this mod will save your existing clutch, but if its already so bad that most of the clutch friction material, or the flywheel has been overheated bad enough to cause judder, you will still need to replace the clutch and possibly the flywheel.
If you catch it soon enough with the mod, you could get tens of thousands of addtional miles before having to do your clutch!
Each situation will vary.. but for the love of god.. REMOVE THE VALVE!
I have also had to replace the steering wheel rack at 42,000 miles. Very costly repairs.
Has anyone else had clutch problems with their 2005 Tiburons?
good luck
Can you email me personally about this? I have an '07 GS with no problem... Yet, but I notice when I "Rev" it out to redline and try to quick shift into second that I hear a grind. I haven't taken it to the dealer yet and I don't beat my car at all. I have almost 38,000 mile on it and want to know if I can do that to my car. email is joeymetsfan7232@yahoo.com. Thanks.
There's a reason why Hyundais do well in initial quality, but clutch, suspension and electrical problems mount significantly over times.
Plotted on a chart, Hyundai remains flat during years 1 through 2, ticks upwards in year three, and takes off in a nasty upward direction in years 4 and beyond.
She recently started experiencing a problem. Sometimes it was hard to get in gear, gear grinding, and other times it would rev as if the clutch had not engaged. The problem is intermittent and the dealer said they could not find a problem. She took it to another mechanic and have changed the slave twice without success. And now has an added problem of not wanting to start sometimes as if the clutch is not being depressed.
I realize this info is partial, but would appreciate any input.
How in the world does a clutch fail to engage or disengage as a single problem?
My only suspicion is that somehow the throw-out bearing is sticking on the shaft. So I'm looking for other possibilities and any knowledge of how this assembly is constructed. My knowledge is from previous times where a fork compressed the clutch plate away from the flywheel. The clutch plate was splined to the output shaft. In some designs the plate slid on the splined shaft.
And now there is the no start issue. Does anyone know where that safety switch is located?
Some designs had it located near the brake switch, on the interior. If your linkage went bad, you defeated the safety switch. With mechanical linkage, they might be put anywhere along the linkage including at the clutch. With hydraulic, it could be put at the master or slave cylinders. For the highest degree of safety, it would seem they would put it at the output of the slave. I have no idea how the slave actuates, is connected, to the clutch. I remember one where the slave would make direct contact with the fork, but have no idea if someone came up with one of those "better ideas". (other than the one everyone hear seems to have)
www.newtiburon.com
Problem solved.
Took car to dealership, clutch didn't seem right, ticking noise, told nothing wrong ($50). Problem got worse, back to dealership, nothing visible need to teardown to locate problem ($130). Amazing they found that the clutch, flywheel and pressure plate needed replaced. Said no warranty that the car had been driven hard they could tell because the tires needed to be replaced as well. So $2400 just for the clutch problem, gave quote also for tires, but we took it to a tire company so we at least know that we have a good warranty on them. Amazing that the tire company told us that getting the 19,000 miles out of the tires that were on it was good. So guess that takes care of the driven hard excuse because of the tires!
So in summary $22,000 for the car, $2400 for the clutch, $500 for tires all in the first year. They got us!! To sell it we lose our shorts, to keep it sounds like we will lose our shorts as from what I read our clutch problems have only begun. But guess what we have a good warranty on the tires.
I guess from what I read our next step will be to contact the BBB since the dealership is no help, Hyundai doesn't seem to care, so why bother.
If anyone else has had any luck anywhere, please let me know.
kaguilfoil@gmail.com
Take the "holder" out..(has a hole in it which creates the delay).. along with the spring.
There is no longer a need for the spring as the delay orifice is removed, and the spring will no longer serve a purpose of helping the part stay centered.
Be sure you look for any leaks when you are done, and bleeding the clutch slave is a piece of cake.
I suggest using a Dot 4 type brake fluid as it has a slightly different and I think better "feel" at the pedal. Dot 3 is fine as well of course.
Just take your time, and be sure you have a couple good rags to clean up the brake fluid.. its horrible on paint.
:shades:
Look into doing an adjustment on that, and if someone removed the transmission in the past, either they messed up the adjustment, or the cable may just be stretching.
I have seen situations where people with bad clutches get all "angry" with their transmissions and shift hard on them and bang them into gears, sometimes stretching out the cable that way.
I would look into the simple approach first, (cable adjustment) before you poo-poo the transmission as possibly needing some repair.
The thing about this fix, is that it works best if your clutch isnt already toast.
If it slipped long enough, even having the clutch slave no longer "delaying" (which wipes the clutch out in the first place).
Now, if you are replacing your clutch, make damn sure this valve is removed or you will be doing it again pretty quickly.
Also, make sure you have properly bled your clutch slave, and at the same time, keep your clutch MASTER filled well during the process or you will get a bubble,which.. will act like another delay valve, or worse, you cannot engage your clutch at all.
Which may be your issue.
Its been sometime since you posted this, but with your experience here, maybe others can learn from any possible problems in the future and make sure to look for this solution.
Parts are sourced from all over, and sometimes, you just get bad parts installed in a complex mechanical device (such as a transmission) with tolerances, metallurgy to worry about, and the possibility the transmission may have actually been assembled wrong as well, you can see that things can and do go wrong.
As far as I know, there were minor differences between 2003-2008 5 or 6 speeds.
With exception of the silly clutch slave cylinder delay valve, that was the only known "flaw" with Hyundai's design.
Just be SURE that thing is removed (the spring and delay valve) and not only will the clutch last a long time, but it feels SO much better shifting too!
Good luck on your transmission rebuild.
Honestly, like I mentioned in my last message, I think the transmission may have been bad from day 1, and it could be a misalignment problem with a bearing due to a poor casting.
In your case, the new transmission should solve all your problems.
Maybe it will take alittle longer, but once you get a fresh one, you should get years of trouble free use out of it.
My 04 Tibby is 6 years old, and I took out that damn clutch slave cylinder delay valve and spring (there have been so many reports of bad clutches it isnt funny) to find out that removing this part is the saving grace for all Tiburon manual transmission owners.
The shift action is spectacular, and the car has much better engagement.
No slipping.. It just engages and drives down the road like any other manual transmission.
When I first bought mine, I thought there was something off when I was clutching the car.. (like I was brand new at a manual and was slipping the clutch alot) but I knew it wasnt me as I have TAUGHT people how to properly drive a manual.
So, I looked into it, and thought maybe there was something in the hydraulics of the clutch master or slave cylinder that could be slowing down the fluid flow so the clutch would naturally "slip".. to provide percieved smoothness.
I was right.
There was another guy online that found the culprit, (the clutch slave cylinder delay valve and spring) and effectively fixed the problem.
This could be considered a "Mod" and it totally improves clutch operation.
I doubt the dealership will remove it, but you might ask the mechanic (since the transmission is coming out anyway) to remove those 2 parts.
If he doesnt for some warranty reason, have a friend remove it for you.
Its pretty easy to do, and trust me.. your clutch depends on you taking it out or you will be replacing a clutch in 20K miles (or less).
I have never been so adamant about something like this.. Since I own a tibby, I can vouch for its effectiveness.
The car has 40K miles more on it since I took those parts out back in 2006.
I dont regret it at all.
Good luck!
You need to file a complaint with the NHTSA (National Highway Traffic Safety Administration). They are the ones who ultimately issue a recall for auto safety related issues. And, our clutch problem IS a safety issue since the failures occur when we are moving. File your complaint directly at:
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/
That is a link to the actual Online Complaint Form. Apparently there is no present investigation into this problem. Hard to believe with the hundreds and hundreds of clutch related complaints I have heard about, that only 58 complaints had been filed with the NHTSA. I was informed to encourage all who have had a problem to file a complaint there. I encourage the others who are pursuing a Class Action Suit to continue, as well as to file this complaint with the NHTSA. Don't allow Hyundai to continue to rip us off. Stand up and Speak up! Filing with the NHTSA could also help with any Class Action Suit.
The NHTSA is part of the Department of Transportation. They are overseen by US Senate Committee on Commerce, Science and Transportation, as well as, the US Senate Subcommittee on Surface Transportation and Merchant Marine.
In addition, you may also want to write you state Senators and Congressmen to obtain their support in this issue. The more we are heard the better. Remember, as Ben Franklin said, "The squeaky wheel gets the grease."
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/
That is a link to the actual Online Complaint Form. I spoke with them this morning and was somewhat encouraged, but not guaranteed. Apparently there is no present investigation into this problem. Hard to believe with the hundreds and hundreds of clutch related complaints I have heard about, that only 58 complaints had been filed with the NHTSA. I was informed to encourage all who have had a problem to file a complaint there. I encourage the others who are pursuing a Class Action Suit to continue, as well as to file this complaint with the NHTSA. Don't allow Hyundai to continue to rip us off. Stand up and Speak up! Filing with the NHTSA could also help with any Class Action Suit.
The NHTSA is part of the Department of Transportation. They are overseen by US Senate Committee on Commerce, Science and Transportation, as well as, the US Senate Subcommittee on Surface Transportation and Merchant Marine.
In addition, you may also want to write you state Senators and Congressmen to obtain their support in this issue. The more we are heard the better. Remember, as Ben Franklin said, "The squeaky wheel gets the grease."
I took mine to AAMCO and had it rebuilt with NON-Hyundai parts. It now has Luk components and a Sachs clutch plate - all German parts. It shifts nicely now, better than new, but I am still skeptical about the reliability of the car and just want to get rid of it.
The Tiburon is clearly a poor design and it is just wrong that Hyundai has screwed us all royally. My repair cost over $2k.
I bought my tiburon used from a dealership 2 years ago and have replace the clutch once and had the flywheel resurfaced (about a year ago) and now I must replace my flywheel, disc, throwout bearing and clutch assembly.
I am aware of the class action suit and for this reason I do not want to put anything else from the dealership in my car, for fear of future failure.
So does anyone have a working solution for this clutch and flywheel problem? Aftermarket or not? I would rather pay 2500 and get this problem fixed for good then pay 1500 and have another headache in a year or 2.