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Comments
I was kicking myself when I realized I could have done it on my old Outback Sport...and the TA's...
Personally, I wouldn't worry about it. As we all know, everyone has their own threshold as to what they find acceptable. Doesn't make anyone right or wrong.
I am on my third Forester and have always just kept the stock tires on the car. I drive in some pretty heavy snow in the Catskills (last year we had 23 inches on one day) and have never had a problem with the tires. These are not bad tires at all. I understand that folks want to have snow tires and want more traction. Perfectly reasonable. But, that doesn't mean there is anything wrong with your tires.
I've had my Geolanders for several years and if you keep them properly inflated and check for wear and tear, you should be fine. That's my view and that works for me. I do understand the need for snow tires though and it is safe to say that folks who live in more harsh climates my have differing views. Depends on where you live, how often roads are plowed, etc. But to answer your question--these tires are not so bad that you need to rush to replace them.
Bottom line, a few owners switch tires for various reasons but the majority are satisfied with the Geolanders.
-Frank
They are "noisy" compared to some.
I will switch to Falkens next year at about 60k. Reason: The Falkens are better in all categories except wear, and cost $59 each. Go figure. 4 Falkens for less than 3 Geos.
John
I was delighted with the performance of the geolanders on my 99 OB. Fairly sticky with good mud and dirt traction. However I only got about 50,000 km (say 30,000 miles) from each set.
Funnily enough, I am looking at putting a set of Geolanders on to my Kluger (Highlander to you) when the current set wears out. They look to be about the best compromise for my sort of usage which does include mild off road work.
Cheers
Graham
My Geos handled our recent winter storm (about 16" of snow) really well; my only complaint is the ABS kicked in a lot under stopping conditions.
Michael
I can't imagine what would cause the radiator to go bad so soon. What did the mechanic say the problem was? Oh FYI, the coolant additive is intended specifically to prevent head gasket leaks so it has no effect on the operation of the radiator.
-Frank
i have a 2004 forester x, and everytime i do a slow turn of the wheel, say, like turning into a parking space, i hear this griding noise.
i've mentioned it to the subaru service people, but they couldn't replicate it.
could this be a wheel bearing problem?
any help would be much appreciated.
thanks.
daniel.
Regrds,
Kyle
tires.
-juice
-Brian
Why are all four tires showing this identical wear? Knowing that the tread is good elsewhere, are they still safe to drive? I hate to spend money on tires, but I want my family safe. Any thoughts are welcome. Thanks.
Why are all four tires showing this identical wear? Knowing that the tread is good elsewhere, are they still safe to drive? I hate to spend money on tires, but I want my family safe. Any thoughts are welcome. Thanks.
My wife has an 05 and had the exact same treadwear. Those tires are only rated at 320 treadwear (or maybe 360) which equates to only about a 30-35k tire. OEM tires never seem to last much longer than that these days. I just replaced my wifes tires w/ 4 80k tires. Did lots of research and was leaning toward Uniroyal Tiger Paw Touring from Wal Mart but ended up getting a great deal from a local guy on Goodyear Assurance ComfortTreds.
-juice
Now perhaps you’re asking why the recommended TP wouldn’t be the one that maximizes the tire’s life expectancy? Well the answer is because the vehicle’s manufacturer (not just Subaru) chose to sacrifice some tread wear in exchange for improved ride comfort. That’s because generally speaking, the higher the PSI, the stiffer the ride. Now to be fair, there are some handling and safety concerns since an over-inflated tire doesn’t grip the road as well and is more prone to overheating (as is a severely under-inflated tire).
Personally, for tires rated at 44 max PSI, I keep them at 36. This seems to provide for almost even tread wear (and improved gas mileage) while not negatively affecting handling. The trade-off is that I have to put up with a slightly stiffer ride.
-Frank
Which brings up the issue of knocking/pinging, which has been pretty much constant while going uphills, especially long steady grades, since I got the car. It checks out OK and I'm still running COSTCO 87 in it, so I wonder why I'm getting the knock/ping and if it might be harming the engine.
-juice
I went back to 215/60R16 instead of the slightly wider 225s I have now. The size better matches my full size spare (205/70R15) that I had to use on a trip from the beach, 2 hours away. Got a little worried about the difference in circumference, so I went with the closer match.
They should arrive next week, I got them from vulcantire.com. Ordering on-line saves you a bundle, I got them for $35 less than similar tires at Costco, and that's shipped, plus I don't have to pay tax! Saved me about $160 overall.
Ordered a 2nd set for our Legacy, too, since my wife just got a flat and it's not fixable. Luckily the tires were already old, so no big loss.
-juice
I just ordered tires online myself, and agonized over getting Falkens or Yoko Avid H4S. It was basically a coin flip, but I went with the Yokos. I'm comfortable with the brand based on my positive experience with the OEM tires, I read/heard good things about tread life, and I like that it's (AFAIK) the only AA/A-rated tire anywhere close to that price point. It was tough to go against CR's recommendation, though!
The new shoes are going on tomorrow. I'll post impressions in a few weeks after they're scuffed up a bit.
We took a road trip to the beach, about 3 hours each way. Two things I noticed that are different than the last set I had:
1. They are not as quiet as the Nittos were when new, but certainly tolerable.
2. Straight line tracking is *MUCH* improved.
I'm not getting the tram-lining that I was with the Miata when it got the same tires (that's when the tires try to follow seams in the road), but boy does it track straight. You point the steering wheel in one direction and it really holds that position, especially if you're going straight.
I'd choose tracking like that over the noise any day so I'm satisfied so far.
-juice
In fairness, I'm not sure they'll be as good in the winter, but I don't have anything but a gut feeling on that one. In my case iit doesn't matter since I run snows from dec 1st to mid march.
I also doubt the Avids will be as good as the Geos were in the snow. My wife is an MD and has to show up for work regardless of what's happening with weather. The Geos got her there through some pretty nasty stuff the last two years, often times with one or more coworkers along for the ride because they were either stuck or not willing to chance it in their cars. I'm hoping where the Avid really shines is with wet handling. I never had any serious problems with the Geos in that respect, but it felt like wet was their Achilles' heel. Still, I would have kept them indefinitely if it weren't for the fact that the shoulders were getting dangerously worn.
In somewhat related news, I'll be at the dealer tomorrow am. The tire place that installed the new Avids called me at work and did the old "Sir, we've got your car on the lift and did you realize you've only got 5% of your brake pads left?" routine. I'm fairly certain they were attempting a fast one, but might as well have the dealer check it out and make the most of that 7 months and 7K I've got left on the warranty.
A A 460
The first A is the traction grade. AA is best, then A, then B. Try to get A or better.
The second letter is the grade for heat resistance. Most H rated tires get an A here. S rated tires usually get a B. The Firestones in the big Explorer controversy were B rated. I'd avoid that, so I have to agree with the tire shop.
The last number is for treadwear, relative to a reference generic tire. Higher numbers mean they last longer. I've seen anywhere from 180 to 500+.
Pressure - Subaru's recommendationos are on the low side, 29/26 on mine for instance, but I use 32 psi all around. You don't want to go any higher than 35psi or so because the ride becomes real stiff.
-juice
Doug
Doug
The reason I would go to the dealer is to use up my Subaru Bucks.
Thanks
Ron W.
I am very happy with the wear I have gotten from the Geolanders, and they like all makers have several different quality/use levels. If you are happy with their performance, replace with the same!
At my latest service visit, the dealer said that my treads were down to 5/32nds. The car has 37,500 miles and is mostly driven on the highway at high speed. They suggested replacing my OEM tires with a set of Cooper all-season tires. I live in NY state where we get significant snow.
Do you have any suggestions or are there any things I should look out for?
Thanks,
BKLHFD
Then I replaced them with the Nitto NT460. Better, and more quiet at first, but as they wore they were noisy. They also leaked air towards the end, but they did last a very long time.
My third set are Falken Ziex 512. I got them on my Miata first, and liked them so much we got them on our Legacy and on our Forester. So we actually own 12 of those tires!
I love them, they track straight, grip like crazy, and the cost is very affordable, only slightly more than cheapie generic tires.
Consumer Reports also rated them a Best Buy, and I can't disagree. Discount Tire carries them, so does VulcanTire.com.
-juice
You should be able to get them for $70 apiece. My only beef so far is kind of a weird one -- the center channel is very wide and tends to suck up lots of gravel and road chunks and other detritus. I spend a lot of time digging these out of the treads.
Len
Any thoughts about choice (brands) of tires are also welcome.
-juice
I was just trying to squeeze some more performance out, and economically so. We have almost 50K miles on the car, and a fair share has been city streets. My brakes began squeeling last month, but the sound disappears on hard braking within 2-3 seconds. Seems to come from the rear, but not sure. If I do need a brake job, could I use the larger legacy or outback rotors and pads for the back, so as to reduce the "dive"?
Note that the brakes are a "system" which includes highly engineered components such as ABS. If you make mods as you mention above, there are other affects than just enhanced rear braking (which may not happen at all, as there are apportioning valves) that come into play.
John
Actually, you'll get a more accurate gas mileage figure. The standard Geolandars on the FXS are a bit undersized in terms of speedometer calibration. When you use the odometer numbers to calculate your MPG, you get an inflated miles driven figure on the order of 5%. (or put another way - when you see 68mph on the speedo, your true speed is about 65mph).
The good news - you'll put fewer miles on the Subie without even trying !
-mike
I had 225/60R16 tires on my Forester, and they did not rub. They aren't stock rims or offset, though.
That difference is very tiny, odds are they will fit. I think the offsets are similar. The closest call in terms of rubbing will be the rear spring perch.
-juice