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Chevy Suburban Maintenance and Repair

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  • alkemistalkemist Member Posts: 5
    I HAVE A 2000 CHEVY SUBURBAN 1500, 5.3 V8, I WAS UNABLE TO START MY CAR, SO I PUT IN A NEW STARTER, & STILL WHEN I PUT THE KEY INTO THE "RUN" & TURN IT FORWARD TO START IT, IT DOESNT MAKES ANY NOISE, JUST A CLICKING SOUND IN THE ELECTRICAL CENTER, I CHECKED THE FUSES, & ALSO THE FUEL, TEMPERATURE & BATTERY GUAGES REMAIN STAGNET WHEN I PUT THE KEY INTO THE "RUN" POSITION, I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT IS WRONG, PLEASE HELP ME OUT!!!
  • rockman59rockman59 Member Posts: 250
    This may seem pretty basic but......are you sure the battery is OK and the cables and connections are good? A clicking sound usually means a very weak battery or loose connection.
  • dieselonedieselone Member Posts: 5,729
    You definitely have a cooling system problem. I routinely tow my 4500lb boat with my 2000 1/2 ton Suburban with 3.73 in heat up to 110 and the temp gauge has never moved higher than it's normal running temp even when pulling up hills.
  • mrbproofmrbproof Member Posts: 2
    thanks for the response. Turns out it was the Thermostat sticking. Its been replaced since and no probs.
  • dieselonedieselone Member Posts: 5,729
    Glad to hear you got it taken care of. I've been away from the boards for a while and didn't notice the date of your post.

    Anyway, glad to hear it was only a thermostat. Seems it's only the expensive stuff that breaks on my burb i.e. transmission and recently an a/c compressor.
  • homersonhomerson Member Posts: 1
    This recently purchased well-used Sub with 88K miles runs great except when it is hot outside and it is at high altitude the engine loses power and often cuts off. Usually happens at the top of a hill or when otherwise letting off the gas pedal. Could this be a vacuum-related fuel line problem? After stopping and cooling a bit it starts and runs again. Any ideas or similar experiences?
  • rockman59rockman59 Member Posts: 250
    This recently purchased well-used Sub with 88K miles runs great except when it is hot outside and it is at high altitude
    ___________________________________________________________
    How high are you talking about?
  • lajalaja Member Posts: 3
    I am guessing you live in the northern part of the Country. I had the same leak on my 2002 Suburban. My dealer checked into it and found out there is a seal on the upper front axle. The seal has been leaking in colder cliamates. No problem in southern States. My car leaked out most of the differential fluid. They replaced the seal with a different material (about a year ago, I can't remember what new one they used). Since this appeared to be a manufacturing defect, my dealer ate the cost and charged me nothing. There is a GM bullitin on this problem.
  • lajalaja Member Posts: 3
    I have a vibration in the front right of my Suburban. It starts at about 35 MPH, but can be felt most over 57 MPH. Chevy dealer has balanced wheels, replaced tires, alligned vehicle, road balanced wheels and now suggests a different tire. I also had front shocks replaced. Nothing is stopping this shudder through the whole vehicle. Chevy is correcting effects, but has yet to find the cause. They have been very easy on the cost factor to me, (discounted pricing, minimal labor charges, etc.) so it's not that.
    A second Chevy dealer checked the whole front end and also could not find anything wrong. Idler arm, ball joints, tie rods, the whole nine yards all check as OK.
    Any ideas?
  • caesard3caesard3 Member Posts: 3
    I had a mechanic which recently replaced my Drac module to fix my transmission shifting problems. I was told by the Chevy dealer that this module had nothing to do with the shifting. I was wondering if anyone had information regarding this.This mechanic also said he got the part from a salvage yard but I was also told this would not work. I was wondering if I got ripped off.
    Thanks
    Caesar
  • terryasullivanterryasullivan Member Posts: 24
    Surely, they have moved that tire/wheel to another location to see if the problem follows?

    terry
  • terryasullivanterryasullivan Member Posts: 24
    My 2002 8.1 overheated last year. Even saw a message on the dash about high temperature. Did you see anything? What does the temperature gage show? I replaced the fan clutch with a Hayden severe duty clutch.
  • lajalaja Member Posts: 3
    Hi Terry, Yes, they rotated tires and problem stays in front right. Dealer used a vibration analyzer and found that it is vibrating once per rotation. Different wheel, now 3 sets of tires and it remains in front right, once per rotation.

    Larry
  • cjlindcjlind Member Posts: 1
    I just traded for a 2000 Chevy Suburban, the service 4-wheel drive light came on today. Is this a problem that should have been solved by a recall or is this serious?
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    does anyone here know how to fully replace the automatic door locks in every door on a 1988 chevy suburban silverado? i would really like to do this with my son as a project, for fun and to save a hell of a lot of money so any tips and directions would be great :)
  • mikell01mikell01 Member Posts: 3
    2003 Suburban. Is there a way to disable the annoying chime that sounds when service light comes on? I have an ABS light that comes on and off and the chime is very annoying.
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    Hello, anybody home?!?

    It is supposed to be annoying so that you would take your vehicle to have break system repaired. Why would you keep driving a car with ABS warning light on?

    I hope NOBODY gives you instructions of how to disable the chime, but that's just me.

    --Arrie--
  • mikell01mikell01 Member Posts: 3
    Hello anybody home- unfortunately attempts to locate the source of the ABS problem have been unsuccessful. I get the message - I can see the light - I don't need a chime every few seconds. I have been driving vehicles for 30 years without ABS. They are not a necessity.
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    Have not been successful to fix it? Did you try to find the problem yourself of did the GM service tell you they can not find the problem?

    If it was you I think you need to spend the money and have it fixed. If it was the GM service telling not able to fix it you should contact some government agency and report it. Any brake system alarms are no go.

    Yes, cars did not have ABS in the past and you can drive a car without ABS brakes just fine but when your car has ABS built in to it it is not 100% safe to say that when ABS light is on the system works like brake system without ABS.

    Just think about it. How does the ABS system control the braking force when it is enabled on slippery surface? It relieves the braking pressure that you apply from the pedal, right? That is why you feel that pulsation on the pedal when ABS works. What if the ABS system with the light ON would decide to just relief all of the braking force as you apply the pedal when you are driving on dry pavement say 50 mph and the car just 100 ft in front of you suddenly slows down for a turn?

    --Arrie--
  • fireoo7fireoo7 Member Posts: 6
    having problems with ac tensioner replaced 3 times with a dealers one and belt and still having same problem a rattling noise that comes from the tensioner. anybody have a solution to the problem.
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    well, i sort of have 2 problems

    1) every morning, when i start it up to go somewhere, it blows blue exaust out the tailpipe. it shoots one giant poooof then its over with and doesnt do it again till it sits overnight and ran in the morning. i have no clue about it and it is kind of embarresing

    2) squeals!!! also, when i start it in the morning the belts squeal like no other. the belts are new and all tight. it will continue to squeal until it is shifted into gear, then it stops immediatley. but, when it doesnt squeal, it whirs, like an idling jet liner, very strange. it isnt harming anything, but it is also embaressing, especially when i live in a nice and quiet neighborhod. something about hearing that at 8 am i the silence of the morning would drive me up a tree. so if any one has any way to fix/help the problem, my neighbors and i would realy appreciate it
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    1988 probably don't have the flat belts?

    If your belt are new and tight and they still slip it probably means that your belt pulleys are worn out so that the belt bottoms out. Belt should not bottom out, it should touch pulleys only at sides.

    You probably need to change pulleys or you could try an over size belt, a fat belt, that would work on those worn out pulleys.

    --Arrie--
  • jrvalenjrvalen Member Posts: 2
    I have the tailgate on my 97 and I do believe they were also available in 96...
  • 3mice3mice Member Posts: 4
    I am purchasing a 2000 Chevy sub 1500 LS AR with 80,000 miles. I am so worried about how long the engine runs. I heard goes into 200's. I only drive 9,000 a year and very local. What should I be concerned about.
  • fireoo7fireoo7 Member Posts: 6
    i own a 01 lt sub for 3 years has 82,000 miles and just started to give problems with the ac tensioner and the engine idle, and the abs system, the air bag light stay on other than that sub was ok
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    what exactly do you meam by the belts "bottom out"? :confuse: i have heard that term for suspensions, but not belts
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    By belts bottoming out I mean that the inside flat surface of the belt comes in contact with the bottom of the belt groove on the pulley. Belt should contact pulley only at the angled sides.

    The way belt transfers torque to the pulley (or pulley to belt) is the wedging effect between the angled sides of the belt and angled surfaces of the pulley groove. If the inside surface of the belt comes in contact with the bottom of the belt groove in the pulley this wedging effect is lost and belt can transfer dramatically less torque, i.e. it starts to slip.

    When belt pulleys are worn too much even a new belt cross section is not big enough to work with it correctly and for a fix the pulleys must be changed.

    In some cases it is possible to use bigger cross section belts on worn out pulleys but the best fix is to have belt pulleys changed. It can also be a hazard to operate pulleys beyond their design as they can break if they become too weak.

    --Arrie--
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    is replacing the pulleys a do it your self job? if so is it easy or hard? i have also noticed that when i have the air conditioner on when i turn it off at night, or if the a/c is on when i start it in the mornig, it squeels. if its off, it doesnt do it as much. also, the squeeling stops immediatley when i shift it into gear and the rpm's have no effect
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    Very strange that the noise stops immediately when you shift to gear. I would think this is due to lower engine rpm but then you say that rpm does not have any effect?

    Anyway, it makes sense that with AC on it squeals more when starting the engine. It just adds more load to the belt at the moment the belt is cold and does not have the best friction characteristics yet.

    You need to check which pulleys are worn. Perhaps it is the AC compressor pulley, but this probably has been changed somewhere on the way as it is an '88 model vehicle?

    The most likely worn belt pulley is in the end of the crank shaft. That probably has not been changed.

    Wether it is a do-it-yourself job I don't know. I'm sure it can be done but what tools you would need I can't say. Perhaps a couple of wrenches and a puller will do it?

    --Arrie--
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    yes it is an 88 model and the rpm has no effect on making the belts stop squealing. but, when it is revved up, the squeling gets much louder and faster (if that makes any sense at all) any ideas on how much it would be to replace in a shop?
  • daviosdavios Member Posts: 1
    Over the last four years I've had to replace the alternator four times. Now the mechanic has replaced the alternator and the battery twice this month but the charging gauge drops and the battery light comes on and the car ends up dying. He says he has checked for possible shorts but does not have an answer. So he put a new batt and alt in Friday and the charging gauge dropped immediately and the batt light came on. The truck has a new engine (with 50k) and rebuilt transmission so I would like to keep it going.
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    Does your truck have a separate voltage regulator (not built in alternator) as it used to be in the old days? If so, have it changed.

    If it does not charge after changing alternator and battery for numerous times it is obvious that the wiring is not connected correctly or you have a broken wire somewhere. Also check the fuses, which you probably have already.

    --Arrie--
  • hawkins21904hawkins21904 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, did you ever get a solution to this? Please let me know - my 95 is doing the same thing!!!!!!
  • hawkins21904hawkins21904 Member Posts: 2
    It acts like it's not getting any gas - it stalls out. After you getting going, seems okay but if it starts acting up while driving, the SES light comes on. Gave it a tune-up, still having same problem. Any ideas??? Please help!
  • tigermantigerman Member Posts: 13
    Car chugs and or misfires when cold. Takes about 30 seconds before it gets up to speed. Seems to run fine after that. Spark plug problem? Dealer says they are 100,000 mile sparkplug - I am at 85,000 so they haven't been changed to my knowledge.
    Seems to me it is an electronic sensor that isn't working when engine first starts up or is cold. Please don't tell me I have a fuel injector problem!
    Thanks for your help
  • iceman9272005iceman9272005 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1987 suburban 4wd. with a 350 motor and a 700 R-4 trans. I just pulled the trans. because of a sucepted bent flywheel. I found that the flywheel was cracked all the way around the bolts,due to the fact that it was put on Backwards. I replaced the flywheel & tourch convertor,as well as the seal,filter,oil.When I started it and drove it for about 1/2 mile everything was ok.Next day when I drove it no 2nd or 3ed gears.I do have reverse & 1st gear. Wanted some advice before I pull it again and put it in the shop !! Thank you guys !!
  • tintguy1tintguy1 Member Posts: 2
    You don't want to hear this. I had the same problem with mine. I replace the tensioner and belt (after belt broke). I noticed a "chattering" problem. Thought belt was too big. I talked to a good mechanic friend of mine. There is something in the compressor locking up. Try removing the belt from the A/C compressor and tensioner (if the tensioner is new, it is not the problem). If the noise goes away double check the size of the belt. If the belt is fine, you just found the answer. It is the resitance the compressor is causing that is making the tensioner flex. I had him replace the compressor and the problem was gone. You can buy the AC compressor, drier, and orifice yourself and save a ton. Then you can have a shop do the labor for you. You may try to get a reimbursement from the dealer for false diagnosis. Good Luck!
  • tintguy1tintguy1 Member Posts: 2
    My guess is this is an older body style w/ a 5.7? My 96 had cylinder misfire. The fuel pressure regulator was leaking and draining through a weep hole directly into cylinder 5. The part is less than $50. The pressure regulator is located under the upper intake plenum on top of the intake manifold. You will also need a gasket kit for the upper plenum.
  • mparker34mparker34 Member Posts: 5
    Other than the fact that I simply need to get a smaller, more practical car, I am at the moment stuck with my suburban, which admittedly I do kind of like having the all the space in my vehicle (I've had to move several times in the last couple years, and thus far everything I need still fits in the back.)

    Anyway my problems, first I have a serious issue with the truck starting. About 5 months ago, not long after I had the battery replaced (after having problems with buying a new battery that turned out to be bad) I started to have problems with it not always starting, all the electrical would go on, the radio, climate control etc. but nothing would happen with the engine, no sound nothing. Usually if I just sat there and continued to turn the key it would eventually go, but sometimes I could be sitting there for quite a while. I checked out the battery cables and made sure they were tightened down, one was really loose, so I thought I had solved the problem, no such luck. Next I had the starter replaced, I had it checked out and it was pulling way too much power from the battery to start, indicating that the starter may have been warn down. That actually seemed to work for about 2 to 3 weeks with no real problems, sometimes I would turn the key once, got nothing then tried again and it was fine so I just shrugged it off. Now it's back to it's old antics of just not starting. This is a car I inherited from my parents when they decided to move across the country, when they still had it about 3 years ago they had the engine replaced, and at that time they put in all new spark plugs and wires, (the engine however was used, I believe it had 10,000 miles on it.) So all I know is that those things were replaced recently, the battery is good, the alternator is goos, the starter is brand new. So what else is there?

    Also, a much more minor problem, when the airconditioner is on the suburban makes a HORRIBLE buzzing sound that makes passers by think it's about to die. This has been a problem on and off for a couple years. I've been told it's the compressor (I think... I honestly can't remember anymore) which would cost me $900 to replace, if that's the case I don't have much need for airconditioning at the moment.

    any help at all would be wonderful!
  • tigermantigerman Member Posts: 13
    Did you get any responses to your problem? I have a 97 with same exact problems (I am #84 or #86)
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    Starting problem that you describe should not be that difficult to solve.

    You say the problem is that the engine does not even try to turn over when it won't start. This means that 1. Your starter motor is bad (yes, new ones can be bad too), 2. Your starter solenoid is bad, 3. The wire from the key cylinder to starter solenoid has bad connection, 4. The Park/Neutral switch is not in Park/Neutral position at time you try to start, or The key cylinder itself is bad.

    I would not go after the starter motor at first as it has been replaced, but sometimes a new motor can have a problem though...

    The starter solenoid is a very likely problem, i.e. when you turn the key a small wire from the lock cylinder powers up and engages the starter solenoid. Starter solenoid then allows the high amperage current to flow from the battery to the starter motor. Have your starter solenoid checked and also have it checked that the wire from the key cylinder powers up when you turn the key.

    Another likely problem is the Park/Neutral switch. You know that all vehicles must have the gear shift at Park or Neutral for it to start. This is done using a small switch that engages that small wire from key cylinder when gear shift is in Park or Neutral position. Have this switch checked.

    Sometimes you can also work on the Park / Neutral switch yourself. Next time the engine won't turn move the gear shift a little bit or move it to Neutral position and try start there. The Park / Neutral switch can become flaky and it looses it's correct set position.

    Then the key cylinder itself can be worn out. It is a mechanical electric switch and it wears out over years and can become flaky before going all the way out.

    The horrible sound from the A/C compressor probably can be helped by putting an oil charge in the system. This is very easy and low cost fix and could just fix the whole issue. You say the horrible noise has been there for a couple of years but the compressor still works?

    Go to car part store and buy a can of A/C oil charge and the service port hose. Follow instructions and charge the system with oil.

    A/C systems must be charged with oil from time to time as the oil in the system wears out just like motor oil does. Also, the dryer in the A/C system tend to 'collect' the oil leaving less and less for the purpose of compressor lubrication.

    The compressor is a 'piston engine' which has metal parts sliding against each other. This needs lubrication what the oil does. Your vehicle being a '94 model, your A/C probably needs some oil...

    --Arrie--
  • didierfdidierf Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Chevy Suburban, 5300 engine, half ton, 45,000 miles, automatic transmission. Recently the vehicle shuts off completely when driving. No "check engine" light comes on, so there are no codes available to read. It will shut off at different speeds. I leave it in gear and coast to a stop. I let it sit for a moment, a minute or two. I start the engine, revs up okay no problem and go on down the road running okay. Shuts down again and I repeat the same process again. I have taken it to the chevy dealer. They checked all electronics and fuel system. They tell me they cannot find anything wrong. Fuel pressure checks okay. All electronics check okay. The garage thought it might have been a bad load of fuel. Have gone through many tank fulls since then. Will quit doing it for a few days, then begins to act up again. Any one have any ideas. Some have told me that it could be the fuel pump acting up when it gets warm. Then when I stop for a few minutes it catches up with demand. Does that make any sense?
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    When reading your post the fuel pump acting up came to my mind as a possible reason before I even got to the end of your message. Any other kind of problem should set a code but I do know another thing that in my '04 Tahoe shut down the engine without setting the code.

    I had a bad connection on the MAP sensor wire harness and when I had the problem it shut down the engine when I touched it but no code was present. Big surprise not to have code for this. Repeated it for about half dozen times and no code was set.

    --Arrie--
  • kdmillerkdmiller Member Posts: 14
    I am having the same problem that started six months ago. I tracked it to a TSB on stalling and it said replace the fuel level sensors. I did this at a cost of 757.00. It did not help. I then took it to a different dealer and they could find nothing wrong;however the service guy said it could be a defective crank sensor that could shut down the spark. There were no codes that showed up on this but he said we could replace it a hope it cures the problem, at a cost 325.00. Since it was at the shop already I told him to go ahead and replace it. That was three days ago and so far the problem went away. I hope this will help you. Keep me updated on your vehicle. I too have had some problems with my 3/4 ton suburban 8.1 engine. Good Luck Kim M.
  • kdmillerkdmiller Member Posts: 14
    Could you tell me more about MAP sensor wire harness. What is it and where is it located? What doe's it look like. What did you do to solve your problem.This could be whats happening to mine. Thanks Kim M.
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    Wow, $325 to replace Crank Shaft Position sensor!

    I replaced mine. The sensor cost I think about $65 + tax.

    For changing the sensor the starter motor must be taken down, two bolts. Sensor has one bolt. Need torque wrench for starter motor bolt tightening.

    If you buy plastic ramps and torque wrench and part I bet the cost will still be well less that $200 doing it yourself.

    I had the tools already so no cost buying those but $325 is just ridiculous when the job itself takes about 20 minutes at the shop. For me it took about 30 minutes when I need to set the ramps and then crawl under the vehicle.

    Being hands-on person really pays back quickly with these cars.

    --Arrie--
  • nangoldstonnangoldston Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1998 suburban 4x4 with an alternator prob. My family and I are currently broken down (fortunately we made it to a motel) after the battery light came on and the lights dimmed then the car died. My husband loosened 3 bolts and it will not come loose. there is another bolt on the back left side but it appears to be attached to the frame holding the alternator. What are we doing wrong? It is almost sunday and no chance of finding a mechanic until Monday. Help!!!
    OH, I am also having problems when accelerating up a grade and the engine starts shaking. Replaced the coil, spark pluhgs and wires and now , the number 3 injector. Any ideas?
  • kdmillerkdmiller Member Posts: 14
    This is to didierf. What did you find out on your shutdown problem with your suburban? Thanks Kim M.
  • didierfdidierf Member Posts: 2
    Kim,

    Have not had a chance to follow up on some of the suggestions. I do plan to take it to a garage and have them check codes on the PCM(powertrain control module). That was one of the suggestions that I check to see if that produces any codes related to the problem.

    Thanks,

    Didier
  • kdmillerkdmiller Member Posts: 14
    Thanks for your reply. Keep me posted. I'll see if I get another failure after I replaced the Crank sensor. I've had no shut downs yet since I relaced it, but it was just a guess. Thanks Kim M.
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