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Comments
The sound is probably coming from the AC system. In many cars you can hear the pressure in the system to relief thru the expansion valve after engine is shut off. This can take from a few seconds to 15-20 s. If the sound comes from this it should not be a problem.
Sometimes also the coolant in the heater system makes some sound after engine is turned off, which also is not a problem.
Arrie
however, our AC unit is making alot of racket lately so that could be a possibility and closing the door is jsut making it make noise along with running it.
Keep pushing until you get satisfaction.
It sounds like they adjusted the door in an attempt to make the noise go away - I doubt it's bent.
The door seal/gasket design looks a little strange to me. There's an inner seal/lip which looks like it should touch the doors but doesn't. It seems to be there to prevent water from falling into the vehicle when the doors are opened. It also is one large piece for the front and back doors.
The rubbing sound in my vehicle I'm guessing is coming from the seal between the front and back door. There's a little strip of gasketing running vertically at the glass level. I'm going to silicone it this weekend and see if that quiets it. I also am going to see if that gasket can be adjusted at all.
The doors in all vehicles move a little however it's not clear to me whether the cause of the excessive noise is due to the door movement, gasket material, door adjustment or a poor design. I'm hoping it quiets in time or GM comes up with a solution.
Keep us informed of your progress and good luck.
-- Gregg
Boston, Mass
Any ideas?
When you replaced the air shock system with regular shocks what did you do with the vehicle height indicating sensors?
--Arrie--
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It is an old body shop trick to actually bend the doors on the hinges to remove wind whistle and things of that nature. I couldn't believe it the first time I saw a body man do it. Of course the trick is to adjust the door just enough to remove wind nose, etc....not to bend the door so much that it is noticeable.
Wires going to the shocks probably go to the built-in position (height) sensor in each shock. Without wires connected to the sensors I'm quite sure you get the warning message.
Arrie
Do you still have the old shock absorbers? Can you remove the sensors from them?
If you still have the old shocks and the sensor can be removed you could take the sensors and connect them to the wiring and position (and lock) the sensors to give the correct ride height signal.
I do not know the details how the shocks are built as I never had this type of shocks but I did have a Lincoln Mark VII with air suspension that used height sensors that were not built in the shocks. They were separate LVDT sensors. I believe the built-in sensor in the shock is also some sort of an LVDT sensor.
Also, it could be possible to build a 'dummy sensor', i.e. a plug that gives the correct signal when connected to the wiring for a sensor. The 'dummy sensor' would be just a resistor with resistance that the real sensor has when at correct ride height.
Arrie
I have a 03 1500 4x4 LT Burb.
First, and most important with the snow flying, I have received an intermittent SERVICE 4WD message on my DIC. I first noticed this prob when the lights showing the current transfer case selection did not correspond with the actual setting. Since that time if I try to change the transfer case to anything other than 2 HI, the light will flash several times, and then I get the SERVICE 4WD message. The message goes away once I turn truck off and on.
Any help or insight would be greaty appreciated.
Second, I I have a chek engine light that gives me a code for EVAP system leak MAJOR. I have put on a new gas cap to no avail, I am hoping there is a vent hose or something similar disconnected that could be causing my gas tank not to hold air pressure, again any help would be greatly appreciated.
lately our '88 suburban has been having some harsh cold starts, or so my mom says, but it sometimes happens like even 10-30 min after shutting it off. but now, sometimes when we go to start it, i hear this muffled POP, right before the engine starts, then the normal symptoms of a cold start. however, these engine problems have NEVER occurred before the head gasket blew and was replaced.
does anyone know what that noise is and why its doing it? :confuse: :confuse: :confuse:
I have similar problems with 4WD but no lights. I had Drive Shop do my u-joints (heck of a lot cheaper than my dealership) and they pointed out my 4WD shaft was not disengaging from transfer case. They said it was one of 3 things, 1) 4WD switch on dash 2) sender unit on transfer case (I think it was) or 3) mechanical problem wih that shaft not returning to original position. They said it was not 1 or 2 but said dealership should be able to figure out if it was 3. Not sure I have it exactly right but I am afraid of having the dealer tell me it cannot be replace without replacing the whole drive unit and costing me many thousands of dollars.
Any ideas? Let me know what you find out on yours.
The DIC system flashed, Service Tire Pressure Monitor System, and the tire pressure indicator light illuminated. No tire pressures were given. Once we got home, I found that now neither of the remotes worked at all. I went thru the owners manual and found where the system could "re-learn" the remotes, but that system is locked out and would not do anything. Same for the Tire Pressure System. The "re-learn" feature did nothing.
I have already arranged for the dealership to pick the vehicle up Monday for service and they will leave us a loaner. I really hope that this is something simple, but it does not bode well for long term ownership.
This is my first GM purchase. My parents and friends have owned GM vehicles, namely, an 04 Silverado, and 1999 Suburban. The ridiculous stuff that broke on those vehicles is just that...Ridiculous! My friends Silverado had the speedometer go out right after the warranty expired, like it was on a timer!! My dad's Suburban has stuff like the door handles on two doors have disconnected and you can't open the doors from the inside! My dad takes very good care of his vehicles, so this is not from abuse.
I am really trying to have faith in GM, but what's the deal??? :lemon:
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All makes and models have problems. I have owned a lot of GM cars and trucks, Fords, Hondas, and three Mercedes. I have had pretty good service from them all...but all needed fixing from time to time. Be glad that whatever is wrong will be under warranty. All manufacturers are under pressure to keep adding "goodies" to their products. Who needs a tire pressure monitor...that's what guages are for. Who needs trunks that need a motor to close them? Do you really need Nav and DVD in a car? Not in my mind. The more goodies on the car the more problems. And every make and model from every manufacturer has problems. That's a fact.
The dealership has been very helpful. They came and picked up the vehicle, checked everything out and brought it back. The solution, they said, was that the computer needed to be reset.
Well yesterday, I was driving around town and the "Service stabilitrac" warning came on. I called the dealership back, they sent the same gentleman out to pick up the Suburban again. He put the key in to fire her up and drive away and the entire vehicle was dead!! Absolutely no power at all. We broke out the jumper cables, got it started and off he went.
Got the Suburban back today with a BAD BATTERY diagnosis. They said that problem could explain the intermittant warning lights and computer glitches as well as the key fobs not working. They installed a new AC Delco battery and so far so good... Keeping our fingers crossed!
I was pretty much speechless when he told me. I'm afraid my first call after the tow truck would have been to a lawyer, especially when they told me "no" on a new one.
Comments?
I witnessed an older Toyota Tacoma dropping the front end of the driveshaft on the highway several months ago. I remember seeing all the sparks as the driver drifted her way to the right onto the shoulder and came to a stop (good driving, imo!). I also remember thinking how lucky she was that at ~60mph when it dropped, the front didn't find anything on the pavement to dig into. If it had I can fully imagine it "vaulting" the rear of the truck into the air, most likely flipping it and causing a serious chain reaction (this happened during an evening rush hour).
Anyway, whichever it was that dropped, I would also most likely have headed to my lawyer right away. It doesn't sound like there was much collatoral damage if the dealership's going to fix it. (This is consistent with the driveshaft dropping too, so long as it doesn't rebound back up against the underside or catch something on the road as the vehicle comes to a stop).
Scary.
">NHTSA ODI
Thanks,
Jason
we have a 1988 suburban that is suddenly having problems running in the mornings (first start of the day)
it will fire fine, but then it starts bogging down and cutting out, almost to the point where it dies. whats weird is, is that if i rev it up, it does so fine and normal, till it drops down to idle. at this point, it runs crappy again for a few more seconds then all of a sudden it stops and runs smoothly. this is very concerning for us, as my wife frequently works late nights in oregon and we cannot have it break down on her, so any help would be greatly appreciated!
thank you
~tom
George
~tom
~tom
Recourse, yeah probably. What is their policy for making good on their work and for how long? Is it written?
1)Tell the original shop you want them to make good on the work they did - nothing more. If they are reputable, they will do it.
2)Tell them you will call the Better Business Bureau in your state to both report them and to and find out what they suggest as you should do.
3)Ask them if they would rather fix it or would they rather return the original amount to you when it gets repaired somewhere else.
4)Finally, tell them you will call an attorney and have your attorney deal with them. Businesses hate paying lawyers and when they know you are going to wade in with yours and they would be required to counter with theirs, they oftentimes capitulate.
George
~tom
yesterday when driving around, my oil gauge randomly dropped to zero and has been holding there since. the engine is running as smooth as ever and is not acting up, even on the 4 hour trip today. is this a problem or can it be the oil sensor itself? i would think that if it was a problem then the guage would jump back and forth, but it stays planted at zero.
thanks for any advice
~tom
If you drove the car for hours and did not have the engine lock-up you probably have a bad oil pressure sensor or the gauge.
I would not operate my car without the oil pressure sensor working as it is so important to have adequate oil pressure during operation. The life of the whole engine depends on that.
Arrie