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Comments
Thanks,
Elorenzo39
Another indication of a small vacuum leak is that it will probably start running on all cylinders with your foot in it (under heavy load). Check closely for a loose / missing vaccum hose on or around the runner for cyl#4. You can also spray a little brake clean around the gasket area while idling rough to see if that cylinder starts cutting in.
Please keep us posted. I still need help on my burb myself.
I recently picked up a junk yard special 4L60E transmission for my 1997 1500 with 150K. Took it to my local transmission shop to have the main shaft switched out to accomodate my 4X4 shaft. ( trans was from a 2 wheel drive truck with 26K on the clock). Had the tech check it you while doing the shaft transfer. He claimed the box had little to no wear and I should be fine. I personally installed the trans and had good success for the first 25 miles, While backing up a hill. I noticed that the transmission was now starting to slip in reverse and it showed a chek engine light. I checked the code with my reader and it showed up as a transmission electronics code failure. Fluid looks perfect, I looking for suggestions, any ideas?
Jerry
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Why would you pay someone big bucks when they did not do the job right the first time? You need to take your vehicle to an authorized GM shop. You just paid almost $1200 and still the vehicle does not run right. Unbelievable. It will cost you some more money at a GM dealer but at least you will have a vehicle that will run.
Changed plugs,wires,Dist Cap,Rotor
Checked Compression on #6 -200 psi
Unplugged #6 plug wire and not change to engine rough idle which means
# 6 cycliner not firing
DO YOU PROS HAVE ANY IDEAS??? * HELP*
We are having the same exact problem with our 1995 Suburban. Thanks for any info.
Defective Seat Belts is a SAFETY ISSUE!
Nothing Makes an automaker jump faster than the threat of Bad Publicity on a SAFETY ISSUE.
Safety Issues can lead to lawsuits & recalls GM does NOT want to the public to know about! I have the same issues with the center row seatbelts on my 2001 suburban LS, and I do not want to be the only voice complaining to GM on this topic: My buckle housings have split apart and come off of my center row seat & I cannot replace the belts they're sewn to, because GM has sewn them to brackets welded directly to the floor beneath the Center row seat.
Please tell us what GM does for you!
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
IMPORTANT: If the in-line filter is plugged, the fuel tank should be inspected internally and cleaned if necessary. Refer to Fuel System Cleaning.
CAUTION:
* Do not drain the fuel into an open container. Never store the fuel in an open container due to the possibility of a fire or an explosion.
* Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure. Have a dry chemical (Class fire extinguisher nearby.
3. Turn the filter housing counterclockwise and allow the fuel remaining in the filter housing to drain into an approved container.
4. Remove the fuel filter housing and gasket from the base.
5. Remove the fuel filter cartridge.
6. Inspect the inside of the housing for signs of rust or corrosion. Discard the housing if rust or corrosion is present.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install a new housing gasket. Apply a few drops of clean engine oil to the gasket.
2. Install the new filter cartridge.
3. Connect the housing to the base. Tighten
o Tighten the filter housing until the gasket seats.
o Tighten filter housing 3/4 of a turn more.
4. Check for fuel leaks.
4.1. Connect the negative battery cable.
4.2. Turn ON the ignition switch for 2 seconds .
4.3. Turn OFF the ignition switch for 10 seconds .
4.4. Again, turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
4.5. Check for fuel leaks.
i have an 03 tahoe with an intermitten problem when I hit a bump it seems like my vehicle shuts off and turns on momentarily. Sometimes the door locks just cycle and sometimes the check engine light goes on and off, ABS light comes on and off, brake warning light goes on and off, service brake system flashes across my odometer and chimeing like I just started the vehicle. I also lose power for a second. Sometimes the ABS light and brake warning light stays on. My brakes work fine and the brake warning light goes out when I shut off and restart the vehicle, then after running awhile the ABS clears. At least till I hit another bump. Any thoughts where to start? It seems to be a loose electrical connection. Checked ths grounds off of the engine and it isn't loose. I also had the seat heaters on when it did this and they turned off. No OBD codes
As an example....
When you say it doesn't start, do you mean that the starter doesn't engage when you turn the key, turning over the engine?
or do you mean, the starter turns over the engine, but the engine will not fire up and start running?
Bad ignition switch? Bad relay? Loose wire?
Not sure exactly which component sends the impulse that tells your injectors to open, but that's where I'd look if the noid light says no impulse.
proper compression pressures then you can assume that the cylinders and valves are in sync. You can then check the number one cylinder TDC point to make sure the timing mark corresponds with it. Then a timing light will tell you when the spark is timed for. Finally using ether will tell you whether the cylinders just aren't getting fuei.
Any thoughts on what I should expect at the dealership?? Everything has gone downhill on this within the past 60 days.
Why have you let this obvious defect go so long? Isn't it out of warranty now?
Regarding the 50 Amp fuse........you'll need to do some diagnosing to figure out what is shorting out the fuse. I'd disconnect all of the seats first. If it stops blowing, then start connecting back up the seats one by one until you find where the problem is.
You'll need to take the inside door panel apart to get at the locking/unlocking mechanism.
Two issues I noticed. First, rear end clunks rather loudly when the locker engages. Is this normal? Admittedly, many of the times I was playing around and trying to make it -- the harsh clunk was probably b/c I had the other wheel spinning pretty fast already, so the engagement was more violent than it would usually be. Second, the Auto 4wd seemed to take a half second to kick in (again, screwing around, so...). Has anyone else noticed this? I have driven my dad's '99 in the snow quite a bit. On his Sub, there is no perceptible delay in engagement of the auto 4wd. I don't know if my dad's has the g80 rear end, but again, there is no noise coming from the rear when the wheels spin.
I'm just wondering if these are signs that the systems haven't been maintained as they should, ie, the differential filled with the wrong lube and/or the t-case neglected because it was never used for 4wd. But before I spend money getting the t-case and diff. drained and refilled, I wanted to see if you all think there might be a problem, or if that is just how these trucks work. Thanks in advance.
The fix requires temporary removal of the wiper motor and controls (under the hood) then calking the hole. The service guy actually could put two fingers in the hole and be seen from under the dash looking up.
I had this done last spring and now deep into the winter season and cold weather; it worked. Passengers can actually ride in the car without wrapping their legs in a blanket! I had originally thought that there was a vent issue or a leak around the fender on passenger side and searched to no avail.
The "fix" cost me a couple of hundred bucks, but was well worth it.
cheers,
bc