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Chevy Suburban Maintenance and Repair

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  • drvettedrvette Posts: 99
    edited December 2011
    Please put your Make, Model, year, AT or MT and 2wd/4wd when asking questions.

    Your mech may be correct, many sensors, solenoids in the trans, , electrical wire connector problems, faulty ECM/PCM etc can all cause shifting issues.
    also, [in 87-95 the TV Cable adjustment or TV may have debris]

    However, it IS possible that the DRAC is sending erratic signals to your ECM/PCM .

    GM issued a TSB for bad DRAC units, TSB Bulletin No.: 448301

    Since I have NO idea what year you have, here's a generic usage of a DRAC

    For several years, GM used a Digital Ratio Adapter Controller (DRAC), otherwise known as a speed buffer.

    The buffer could fail in such a way that the signal to the instrument cluster was fine,
    yet the signal into the computer was either erratic or nonexistent.
    This would cause either no upshift or erratic shifting complaints.
    And since the instrument cluster was providing a good vehicle speed signal, the buffer was often overlooked as being the cause of the problem.
    Rusty Wrench
    Aka
    DrVette
  • plex4rplex4r Posts: 2
    Suburban 2001 LT,
    5.3 Ltr engine
    164,000 miles
    My Suburban has a major oil leak but I cannot see where it is leaking from. With the car in park, if I idle for about 5 minutes it starts to leak like a faucet turned on just above a drip.
    Probably related to this issue is the fact that the car has been loosing a large amount of coolant over the last few years. I usually only drive the car 2000 miles a year. Over a two week period I could have to put in 1/2 gallon of water, but sometimes it would be 2 months before I would need this much. It seems like in summer it would burn less. I did not see a leak anywhere or out of the weep hole. The coolant has likely been leaking into the engine oil, because the color quickly because a rust like color even soon after I change the oil. Also there would be some amount of gunk that would drain with the oil.
    I have looked all around under the hood but it cannot be seen from there. Underneath the vehicle the oil is dripping closer to the middle of the vehicle, coming from right above the transmission pan. It is not transmission fluid and I have had several people verify the color matches the oil color on the dipstick, and not the transmission fluid color. It is coming from above the transmission and dripping right across the transmission cable and around that side of the transmission pan, but I cannot see above there.
    Before I take it to a mechanic I would like to have a rough idea of what both of these problems could be: First the coolant leak, and secondly the oil leak. The first problem probably caused the second, and I’m sure I did not help matters by continuing to drive it for so long while the coolant leak was happening.
    Can someone please reply with what the cause of these issues may be and any rough estimate on what it would cost to fix it?
  • Hello everyone
    I'm on here to try and find some info on the new suburbans. I know the 2007 through 2010 suburbans are notorious to having many problems with the engine and electrical components along with oil consumption and door locks etc... I want to know if the newer suburbans 2010 and newer have any of these problems? So if you have anything please reply.

    Thank you!
  • ron152ron152 Posts: 6
    I have a 2007 Suburban and my main problem has been with the brakes. The front calipers were too tight for the brake pads to slide so they wouldn't fully release when you take your foot off the brake pedal. This causes premature brake and rotor replacement due to the brakes constantly dragging and over heating. The rear brakes only wear on the inside where it's difficult to see while the outer pads remain like new. I think it's outrageous to have to replace the front brakes AND rotors at 16,000 miles and the rear brakes AND rotors at 30,000 miles, but that's just me. It should be more like front pads at 35,000 miles, front rotors at 100,000 miles and rear pads at 100,000 miles, rear rotors at 200,000 miles. I've been around a long time and have owned a lot of GM cars and trucks. My experience tells me that GM doesn't give a damn about fixing problems until maybe the next generation or until they discontinue that model altogether for lack of sales. Corvair? Monza? Chevette?

    My brother-in-law has a 2008 Avalanche and he replaces the front brakes AND rotors two or three times a year. I got 16,000 miles out of the original front brakes and rotors. I then ground out the space a few thousands of an inch on the calipers to give the pads a little more room to slide. I now have 47,000 miles on it and the brakes and rotors are still good. And my gas mileage increased by about two miles per gallon. I tried to tell GM about their design problem, but they just look at me like I'm nuts. Why should they fix the problem while the dealers can make tons of money repairing brakes?
  • THANK YOU dbat124! I had the EXACT same problem right down to it breaking off in my hand. The only difference being, instead adding wire & putting it back where it was, I crimped a ring on the end, put a wire brush on my drill, took the paint off a spot in the engine compartment & put a self tapping screw right into the metal grounding it out right there. Who knows how much time, money & aggrivation you saved me. It got progressively worse until it suddenly got really bad, I read your post & had it fixed & done in 20 minutes. THANK YOU!!!!!!!
  • My 99 Suburban started acting like I was on 'ice' this morning, had the pit-man arm replaced earlier this year. Most un-safe feeling even at low speeds, most notice-able if there is a bump in the road surface. Was searching to find what could be wrong and came across your posting. Plan on taking in to the dealer in the morning!
  • This vehicle at just over 50K developed a terrible clunk up front, generally well after a slight turn. Almost like what you get with a limited slip rear end jerks that has the wrong oil in it on a turn, only much more positive a jerk. Can be repeated intermittently or rapidly more rapid than the axle rpm. Sounds almost like a big hammer hitting something, all at under 25 mph. Have not dared to go faster. Showed up suddenly after sitting in garage, about a block down the street. Can go a few blocks, no problem, but comes back unexpectedly. No indicator light change.

    When first shown up it appeared like I just drove over a big and solid something and it dragged underneath the engine a few feet. Nothing there.

    30 miles before this it was on a 2000 mile Interstate trip (daughter driving). Nothing noticed then.

    I suspect a very bad hub bearing, due to where it comes from, but could be from the front differential. Or a U-joint, but I have never experienced a bad U joint this bad a jerk. Will go to shop shortly, if I can get that far.

    Goes into each setting of FWD in and out no trouble.

    Is there a limited slip type differential? Inspection underneath shows nothing unusual
  • OG again: On the question, well not a good one, since when not engaged for 4 x4 operation, the limteid slip, if there, would not be involved.

    Instead, I also now wonder if the jerks come due to the 4H tying to engage, with that shifting piston acting up. Also, wold the switches be in the picture?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,050
    I wonder if in fact you still ARE in 4WD---sure sounds like it.

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  • Hello! I have a 2006 Suburban and all of a sudden it appears to get stuck at 25-30 MPH and just constantly revs. It sounds like I am just flooring it. However, it does not accelerate. Then if I continue pressing the accelerator, it will eventually jump and speed up again. What could the issue be?
  • It could be the fuel filter. I'd change that first, cheaper than going into the injector pump.
  • i have a 2000 suburban the 4 wheel drive service light is on.
  • spritemanspriteman Posts: 25
    edited May 2013
    Hello fellow motorheads,

    I'm looking for a checklist for rehabbing a 97 Burb 2WD that's been sitting in a barn for 2.5 years. When the vehicle was put up everything was running normally but nothing was done to store it properly. What I'm looking for is a checklist that I can go through to make sure that I don't damage anything when getting it back running.

    If any of the more capable techs here would respond I would really appreciate it. If you do respond could you include the priority of the steps. I am on a budget and I'm not sure I will be able to do everything on the first day. I will probably do most of the work to save on labor.

    SM
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,050
    Based on your estimate of 2.5 years of storage, I would do the following:

    1. Drain fuel tank---either you'll have to suck the old fuel out with a pump or drop the tank. Add fresh fuel

    2. Change fuel filter and buy a spare one

    3. Replace the battery, clean the cable ends.

    4. Remove the spark plugs and squirt a teaspoon of light oil (ATF, Marvel Mystery Oil, etc) into each hole and let it sit for a little while. Replace plugs.

    5. If you can, use a socket wrench to turn the engine by hand to make sure it is free. If so, go to #6

    6. Check oil and coolant levels

    7. Crank 'er up. Have a fire extinguisher at hand if you can.

    8. Once it starts, let the engine idle, and check for fuel, oil, coolant leaks. CHECK THE BRAKE PEDAL for firmness. CHECK YOUR OIL PRESSURE warning light.

    Phase II

    Once running, take the car out for a short drive. Check the tires to see if they have sidewall cracks or if they are heavily flat-spotted (you'll feel that as you drive). Minor little cracks might be okay. Flat-spotting may improve as you drive.

    After returning to the storage area, drain the oil and filter.

    Phase III

    After you are sure the truck can run reliably and start reliably, you have the option of draining the coolant and flushing the brake system, based on your own observations and judgment.

    If the thumping and flat-spotting has not gone away with regard to tires, you'll have to replace them.

    If the coolant hoses seems old and squishy to the touch, or if the drive belts are glazed or cracked, replace them.

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  • spritemanspriteman Posts: 25
    Thanks for the great reply Shiftright - I will be tackling this soon.

    SM
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,050
    Okay, work safely with gasoline! Sometimes rodents can chew up electrical or fuel lines.

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  • Need help from experts.. my suburban has been doing some weird stuff..and couple mechanics cant figure out.. its not throwing any misfire codes..what happens doesnt happen all the time but will happen at 30mph or 70mph.. it will start to buck is the best way to describe it it will jerk and my gauges all go wackey tach will bounce around gas gauge will bounce around and even abs light will come on..let off gas and settles down..now last week hooked up boat which i knew would put more stress on truck and yes it happened but even more then before drove 65it miles and it happened 3 times on highway and each time had to baby it down to 30mph to get it to stop.. but no codes to check.. so leads me to believe electrical.. please help give me some ideas to look at..been told possibly speed sensor in rear diff?
  • march222march222 Posts: 4
    I need some advice, 2007 Suburban 98,000 miles. I have been religious with servicing. Noticed a tap tap on start up and initial acceleration. I had the oil changed it got louder I took it back and the mechanic listened to the engine and thought it could be a rocker problem. They want 2k plus to repair!!
    I have put some Sea foam into the oil after some research it has become quiet again.
    Any thoughts on keeping or selling? The dealer offered me 19.5k and net 52k on a new LTZ.
    Should I lease or buy?

    Thanks Mark
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,050
    Well nothing in a can is going to fix a serious engine problem like bad rocker arms, so maybe you just freed up a sticky lifter.

    Nothing in a can is going to replace worn metal in other words, but a detergent action could help a stuck lifter.

    I'd say, on a guess, that your mechanic misdiagnosed your problem. He couldn't possibly know about bad rocker arms without disassembly and measuring.

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  • nobody has any ideas on what the problem might be or suggestions on what to maybe check out!!!!
  • We have an 04 and are having the same problem.
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