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Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II

1495052545597

Comments

  • kacykkacyk Member Posts: 4
    I did buy the 2000 Disco. It's the Bright Red "Red Rover" edition. I did call the dealership and checked the warranty history by VIN number. This is very important for any used Disco purchase. The dealership can spot a lemon in a few key strokes.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Welcome, and congratulations! You're in for a long and pleasant experience with your Rover.

    First thing I'd do if I were you, I'd replace ALL the fluids on her. It's work you can easily do yourself, and you'll wind up with a LOT of lube to recycle. This gets you to a known point in the maintenance schedule. Then replace all the fluids once a year, and the motor oil and filter every 3k.

    I know this sounds like a lot, but a mechanic at the dealership here said it best: "oil is cheaper than metal".

    Transfer box, auto trans, diffs, swivel housings (I don't believe you have these anymore), brake fluid, power steering fluid (mine is ATF), coolant. You might go two years on the coolant.

    Rotate the tires front to back, and re-check the pressures when you're done: 28 front and 38 rear. While the wheels are off, take a look at the brake pads; mine last about 17k miles.

    Enjoy!
  • johnedavies1johnedavies1 Member Posts: 20
    Nanuq:

    I really don't want a D1 for several reasons:

    I want a new vehicle. I have been burned too many times when buying used.
    I want the alphabet soup - for road use ABS and ETC can't be beat.
    I want the bigger engine and the better brakes of the '03.
    I do not plan to use the truck primarily as an off-roader. I just want the capability for those times the situation gets dicey back at the campsite.
    I intend to lift the truck and install bigger tires, as well as install tougher bumpers with better clearance, so the departure angle isn't critical for me.
    I just plain want a D2! With a CDL!!
  • smarticussmarticus Member Posts: 37
    Call me old fashioned, but I think a traction control should be either mechanical (such as locking diffs) or electronic (such as ETC). Fitting both to the same vehicle will either be a waste of money, or worse the 2 systems will work against each other and either reduce traction or break something. I have had 4 Discoveries now and the first 3 had CDL and the most recent ETC. I can say without reservation that ETC is a far far more effective traction tool. In the past the best offroad traction tool was simply knobbly offroad tyres. Now ETC can make a DII with road tyres "walk" through some situations that a DI with CDL and mud terrains would have failed.

    Landrover recognised all of that, which is why they disabled the CDL. They are only putting it back cos of demand from people who want "all the toys" even if some of them are now obsolete.

    Just my 2 pennies....
  • modendahlmodendahl Member Posts: 22
    Maybe this is a stupid question, but I figure that somebody here will know the answer:

    Listening to a local radio program today, I heard a discussion about the success of the H2. One of the guys went on talking about a tax credit offered by the US government for buyers of vehicles 6000 lbs or over (apparently this qualifies them as "agricultural vehicles" and makes them available to a $15K credit on income taxes). They say that this brings down the cost of an H2 from $50K to $35K. Supposedly there are 40 or so makes/models sold in the US that are over this weight.

    Looking at the panel on the drivers door of my 2000 DiscoII, it says that the vehicle weight is 6,064 lbs.

    Does anybody know about this? Is it real? If so, I could possibly still go back and restate my taxes for 2000 on.

    Any insight is appreciated.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Details have been posted here: taxstud1(12/31/02):Toyota Sequoia forum.

    tidester, host
  • letbigdogeatletbigdogeat Member Posts: 7
    Greetings all,

    Having experienced the joy of LR overseas (in my youth) I always wanted one. However, for the past ten years the wife and I have owned only Volvo's. The new Volvo suv is 1)overpriced and 2)too tight in the back for someone 6'2. So, yesterday we bought a 99 Disco (superclean) with only 32K. Tincup, I bought a carfax report on it before going to the dealer and it looked good; but could you check VIN SALTY1241XA202838 for me. Dealer showed me a report stating that they had performed the 30K service and replaced the brake pads at that time. It needs new tires, and based on this board I will get the Scorpions. Thanks.
  • kbowenkbowen Member Posts: 58
    At the risk of being accused of continuing "ranting" by Tincup, I nevertheless have a question for nanuq. I personally visited four tire dealerships looking for a tire in the 18" size that is suitable for some serious off roading such as rock crawling and the like. One dealer took a particular interest in my problem and made an exhaustive search. The FINAL answer: There is absolutely NO SUCH tire presently being made by any company, bar none.

    He did suggest though that I might try the Bridgestone Dueler in the 265/60-R18 size (255/55-R18 is the recommended size). He thought it would fit, but noted that it would raise the overall height by about an inch.

    Hence, my question to Nanuq. Have you ever "jacked" you lady up and has it caused any adverse consequences such as increased roll over potential that you were concerned about?

    Also I point out that I can get excellent off road tires in the 16" size if I want to change rims. (The 2001 DII had 16" rims without ACE; The ACE option, which I have, comes with only 18" rims.) However, my dealership told me if I buy the 16" Land Rover rims, they will NOT mount them as they are not recommended with ACE. So, here we are again, a vehicle I love and bought for off roading, and one of the most capable in the world, with NO tire option to do the job. What a waste. Anyway Nanuq, your advice will be appreciated.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    I've been off living in the land of guitars lately, drooling over a Lady of Certain Vintage (which should be here in a couple days). Just thought I'd wander by.

    About tires, wheels and ABS: there is SO much to be said on this topic! Some observations:

    1) Stock tire diameter is adequate for most, but going taller will get your diffs higher off the ground... good thing.

    2) Taller usually also means wider... and your big tires will hit your wheel openings on extreme angulation. Also possibly your radius arms and wheel well innards. Not a good thing.

    3) ABS systems are calibrated to "know" how fast your tire's contact patch (to the ground) is decelerating. If you up your tire size, you up your radius/circumference... and you can fool the ABS into misreading your traction.

    4) It's not always a bad thing to fool your ABS.

    5) ABS senses the difference in rotational speeds between all four tires (on a Rover) and I suspect does some fancy calculations to guess your "speed" based on RPM vs. gear selection. I am guess this because my ABS activates when I'm stuck, spinning all 4 wheels equally in snow, and I stab the brakes to facilitate a quick shift.

    6) Given a taller tire w/larger contact patch (more traction) vs. a larger radius and slower reaction to braking vs. ABS guessing what your traction is doing... I would bet big dollars that ABS won't get confused even measurably with a tire that's only a little taller than stock. I can back this up with my own experience: my ABS works (worked) great and I've run 1" and 2" taller tires.

    7) A tire 1" taller than stock put my speedometer spot-on. It's dead accurate now.

    8) 16" wheels from the earlier Rangie should bolt right onto a DII (they use the same axles).

    9) Your ETC should be no more affected by tall tires than your ABS is. If anything it should operate more aggressively than stock, allowing a bit more wheelspin than with stock size tires (relative radius thing).

    Conclusion: Go to a tire shop other than your Rover dealership and ask them to mount up some gnarly 16" tires on some Rangie wheels and put 'em on your DII. Stick with an inch taller than stock and *slightly* wider... you'll rub a little over big obstacles but not too bad. Make sure you get the fifth wheel and tire as a spare; if you're out playing and flat a tire you'll still have to get back out again the same way you came in.

    Bear in mind that this is simply my advice and if you modify your Rover and roll it, you're on your own. Being the Land of the Free and the Home of the Brave, you already know this.

    I hope this helps, -Bob
  • denver8denver8 Member Posts: 42
    I went snowshoeing last weekend and coming back the road was slippery with packed snow/ice. I noticed that at low speeds with quick braking the front tires would lock up but I could not get the back tires to skid. I do not have ABS and I am running Pro Comp mud terrains. Do you think this is normal or are my rear brakes not working?
    Craig
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Boy that's a tough question. I don't know for certain but I'd guess your rear brakes aren't up to snuff. I have the ABS deactivated on my Disco and I believe it has basically the same brake system as your D90, plus added ABS plumbing of course. On snow/ice I can easily lock all 4 wheels and feel the back end wanting to come around. With the windows down I can hear each wheel sliding separately and looking at my tracks I can see the 4 polished surfaces.

    Try driving on dry roads and applying the brakes. Then jump out and stick a wetted finger in thru the wheel and touch the disc surface. The fronts should be a little hotter than the rears but they should all be hot enough to burn you. If any one or two wheels are cool, I'd suspect the slave cylinder on that wheel is sticking ... or it needs to have the air bled out of that wheel's brake line. That's the first thing I'd do, is to bleed it thoroughly and see if that helps. Check the rotors, are they gouged? Maybe your pads are trashed? Just some things to look for.

    Good luck! -Bob
  • bugnut23bugnut23 Member Posts: 8
    Greetings from the Great Wet North! Have been reading and enjoying this board over the past 3 years, especially the info from Nanuq and Tincup47. Am looking at a couple of 99 Disco II's here in Victoria, B.C. Dealer is asking the equiv. of USD19,000 for each, mileage is 52000K and 58000K km. Both are non-ACE with 18' wheels with new rubber. Without a detailed look, both appear sound with untouched undercarriage and no oil leaks. Any info on the reliability of early Disc II's would be appreciated. TINCUP, if you could, VIN's are:
    SALTY1241XA229246 and SALTY1247XA224116. Much appreciated. Driving a 2002 Tacoma now, very reliable but soulless! Ciao!
  • mrwhipplemrwhipple Member Posts: 378
    Electric or acoustic? Either way, it's a bug that never stops!
  • kbowenkbowen Member Posts: 58
    Post 2640 by Fencer notes that Michelin recommends the XPC for the Disco as the Cross Terrain is not suited for it. Fencer, if you're around, did they tell you why? From what I can see of the specs, the CT has 6/10 mud traction and 9/10 winter traction with a long life expectancy and quiet ride. However, for off road use, which is what I am looking for, Michelin tells me the best suited tire for the Disco is the Synchrome. The XPC is not really an option as Michelin tells me it does not come in the 18" size for my 2001 DII SE7. If you compare the two tires, though (the Cross Terrain V. Synchrome), they both have the same mud/dry traction rating, but the CT has a much better winter traction (Synchrome is a 5 and CT is a 9). Other than the fact Synchorme is more expensive, do you know of any reason why Michelin would say the CT is "not suitable" for the disco?
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Ahhhhh, acoustic only. I just picked up a '74 Guild F-50 Jumbo, and she's a beauty. Now looking at a Guild D-46 with the ash/mahogany sides and back. I've got a D-355 now, with "high miles" (to keep this on topic) and she plays like a dream.

    Hey there's another great use for a Disco, you can open the back door and sit inside the back and play your guitar even in the rain.

    Cheers!
  • mrwhipplemrwhipple Member Posts: 378
    There is no substitute for the sound of a jumbo. Guild has always built really nice stuff.

    Phosphor/bronze strings bring out the warmth nicely.

    Nice acoustics through the disco when you open up the back door!
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Have you heard of DR strings? That company is owned by Mark Dronge, son of Alfred Dronge, founder of Guild. He makes some nice phos/bronze strings, and they really bring out the sweetness of the Guild body. I've been using Elixir strings too, and I'm torn... they sound GREAT but they're pretty spendy. Is it heresy to NOT use DR strings on a Guild? :)
  • mrwhipplemrwhipple Member Posts: 378
    Sorry for off topic.

    I have heard of them but never tried them. www.drstrings.com

    I like the Martin Acoustic SP strings. The Elixirs are nice, but tend to mute the overall tone sometimes.
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    Sorry for the delay, haven't had the time recently to follow this site that closely. Both of the vehicles you asked about were owned by companies, not individuals. Vehicle #1 was built on 6-25-99 and had an extensive warranty history. Vehicle #2 was built 5-21-99 and had an active history, but not as many major items as vehicle #1. Scheduled maintenance does not show up as being performed at Land Rover facilities on either vehicle.
  • matt104matt104 Member Posts: 1
    I'm having trouble getting my navigation system to work. I put the street adress in and everthing else that needs to be done but it never gives me the route.Any advice would be great.
  • stopgostopgo Member Posts: 16
    matt104,

    I just had my navigation system replaced by Land Rover. Mine was replaced because it kept re-setting itself and powering down for no apparent reason, very annoying when driving and you cannot turn it back on. It didn't work right from day one when I picked it up. I'm assuming that yours is the Harmon Kardon system.

    If so, I suggest going to the Harmon Kardon website for the Traffic Pro and downloading and printing the User Manual for the system. You will see that the instructions from the HK website are far more complete and useful than the inadequate pamphlet that LR provides with this complicated system.

    It sounds like your system may not have the data installed from the US East or US West Navigation CDs. It could also need to be recalibrated. Try the HK website, that is what I had to do because the guys at the dealership were not much help with that system because it is so new.

    http://www.hktrafficpro.com/

    Good luck,

    Dave
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    system on the HSE better than the other system offered?
  • letbigdogeatletbigdogeat Member Posts: 7
    Tin ... can you check VIN SALTY1241XA202838 for me please. Bought it two weeks ago. The certified used vehicle warranty is already coming in handy, as I found a leak in the gas tank the first time I completely filled it up. Dealer is replacing the tank this week and installing the Pirelli 255/65 R16 Scorpion ST's and running boards. Thanks.
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    Is very nice,audio tuned by Harmon Kardon's engineers. I actually saw them working on it, very interesting to watch them put all their equipt into a vehicle and then tune it for optimum performance. It is not just available on the HSE though, it is also available as an option on the SE.
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    your's was built on 10-20-98. Warranty history is typical for early 99 vehicles. Mostly leaks and CEL light issues. It does show having the fuel filler neck replaced at 31,000 miles for overflow concerns, could be related to your current issue.
  • bugnut23bugnut23 Member Posts: 8
    Thanks a bundle for your efforts, Tincup47! I think I'll give both of thoses babies a miss and keep my eyes open for a better prospect. They were priced suspiciously low compared to others on the market in these parts. You've probably saved a heap of headaches for budding LR owners over the years. Ciao.
  • mespositomesposito Member Posts: 1
    Bought a brand new 2003 Discovery this past weekend. When I got home I realized there was no navigation cd so I called the dealer and they said that I have to wait for it to be mailed to me. How long does this take? I am going crazy not being able to use it.
  • letbigdogeatletbigdogeat Member Posts: 7
    Tincup ... thanks for the help. Got the vehicle back on Saturday. Jez, what a difference the Pirelli's make! Quieter ride, better handling, and they look great to boot. The dealer in Baton Rouge has been great. They started selling LR's 4 weeks ago (branched off from the New Orleans dealer). Am waiting on quotes for 12 and 24 month extended warranties. Their description of extended warranties so far has been somewhat confusing. Thanks again for the help!
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    if one opts for the Harmon Kardon, is navigation mandatory, or can the stereo be bought w/o nav???
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    The 320 watt Harmon Kardon system is only available with the Becker NAV unit.
  • pdxroverpdxrover Member Posts: 10
    It's been a long time since I last visited this discussion group, but several months ago there were distinct rumors about a complete re-design of the Disco for the 2004 model year. Since reading that, we held off buying a Disco until then - to see what they would come up with. But, we haven't seen, read or heard anything further on this subject. Can anyone update me, please, and let me know if this is still in the works, or has been pushed back, or the whole idea has been squashed? Thanks!
  • mrwhipplemrwhipple Member Posts: 378
    I think it's suppose to show up at the end of 2004 as a 2005 model.

    Maybe someone else has more info on it.
  • johnedavies1johnedavies1 Member Posts: 20
    From what I have read, the new Disco will be a 2005 model, appearing in late 2004. For MY2004 we get the same as the '03, but with a CDL option, like the rest of the worl has now. I hope! That's the one I will buy.

    Nobody is talking about what the '05 will really be like, but the terms "uni-body" and "independent suspension" have been mentioned. Also a new series of more fuel-efficient engines, perhaps including a clean running turbo-diesel for the USA.

    Here is a link about the future of LR. Be sure to read the rest of the article - it is very informative.

    http://www.forbes.com/2002/07/29/0729feat_6.html
  • kbowenkbowen Member Posts: 58
    What is the difference in operation between a vehicle with CDL and one with front and rear locking diffs?
  • smarticussmarticus Member Posts: 37
    A centre diff lock ensures drive is always shared between the front and back axles. An axle diff lock ensures drive is shared between the left and right wheel on that axle. The difference is that with a centre diff lock in operation it is still possible that only one wheel per axle will be getting any drive and if these 2 wheels are in the air, or on a no traction surface - well you ain't moving.
    Electronic traction control (ETC)ensures that if a wheel is not getting any or much grip (as sensed by the electronics monitoring how fast the wheel is spinning relative to the overall speed of the vehicle)then the brakes are applied to that wheel alone, leaving all the power to transfer to the other wheel (s) which are (hopefully) finding some grip. With ETC only one tyre on the vehicle at a time needs some grip to maintain vehicle movement. IMHO a CDL is an unecessary bit of hardware on a vehicle with ETC.
  • johnedavies1johnedavies1 Member Posts: 20
    For most Discovery owners, your answer is probably correct. However, I was not suggesting that a CDL replace the ETC, merely supplement it.

    ETC by itself is not a cure-all. Some of the things an owner should consider:

    1: ETC requires a certain minimal wheel rotation speed to work. If you are moving very slowly, it won't do much. Backing slowly down a steep hill is one scenario where ETC does not work well.

    2: If you have an electrical failure that takes out the system, or take a stick in a wheel sensor harness, you are stuck. With a CDL you can regain much of the lost traction.

    3: If you break a driveshaft U joint, you are stuck - your rig will go nowhere under its own power. With CDL you can lock the center diff, remove the offending shaft, and attempt to drive out of the woods.

    4: If you want to add limited slip or locking diffs in the axles for improved low speed traction (see #1) then they won't be effective without a CDL.

    5: ETC is hard on the brakes and the differential spider gears. A CDL helps by reducing the workload on the ETC.

    Many other fine off-road vehicles offer locking diffs - the new Touareg has CDL and rear, the Land Cruiser a CDL and two axle diffs (I think). There are reasons for this equipment. ETC can be very useful, but by itself it is a little inadequate for serious off-road driving.

    Many owners at the Yahoo Disco2owners group have CDL and ETC, and they like the combination. The fact that LR is making it available again is a good sign.
  • kbowenkbowen Member Posts: 58
    I was involved in a situation several years ago with a rented Jeep Wrangler trying to get up a steep and rocky incline. The Wrangler had only 4-wheel low and no differential locks or ETC. The right front wheel was off the ground and, because of that, the left front wheel was offering no traction and the rear wheels were not enough to get it up, so I was pulled up by another vehicle.

    I know it is a tough question to answer, but does anyone believe either ETC or CDL would have made a difference. (Another Wrangler with locking front and rear diffs made the climb.)

    Also, I have had several "hairy" experiences with my disco (2001 SE7). On a very steep and somewhat rocky section of the White Rim Trail in Moab I was having trouble with traction and the ETC light was firing away. The Disco began loosing momentum and the rear end was trying to fish tail to the right, which was not good because the trail was narrow with a thousand foot or so drop off to the my left. My solution was to go for more gas to keep up momentum despite some rocks on the trail I would have rather have crawled over. It worked, though. The same thing happened on a muddy slope in Arkansas. And then, back home in LA (that's Louisiana), it was necessary to park on the bottom of an up slope of a grassy and muddy levy (vehicle pointed straight up). When it was time to go, a car had parked behind me and the only way out was to go straight up the levy. The Diso would not move; all four tires were spinning and the ETC light was again lit up like a Christmas tree. I couldn't move and had to wait for the driver of the car to come along so I could back off. [Note: I personally blame the tries for these situations (Goodyear 18" HPs) because the Disco has plenty of power and torque, and as many of you may know from my posts, I have been unsuccessful in locating any sort of all terrain tire in the 18" size because no one make one.]

    Anyway, does anyone have any opinions as to whether CDL would have helped in any of those situations.
  • johnedavies1johnedavies1 Member Posts: 20
    If the tires you have are unsuitable, there is little hope of ANY traction aid, including CDL, in getting you through the rough stuff. You have hard, low profile tires, running at high pressure. The footprint of your tires is very small, so there is not much grip. In mud, the tread will fill up rapidly and reduce available traction to nil. If you let out air to enlarge the footprint size, you will trash those expensive alloy wheels. Sorry, you just have the wrong wheels and tires for the job.

    If you are running trails in Moab and in mud, you need serious off-road tires. I strongly recommend that you buy a set of 16 inch steel wheels, and buy a set of aggressive off-road tires suitable for the type of terrain you usually drive (I like the Goodyear Mud-Terrains). Buy as large an oversize tire as will fit under your wheel wells (I am assuming you have the stock lift.)

    Air down to 20 psi or less and I don't think you will have any significant problems off-road. Be sure to bring a source of air to reinflate the tires when you return to a paved road.

    It sounds like a PITA to switch wheels around, but its not all that hard. The main factor is if you have a place to store a full set of wheels.

    Here's an article you should read:

    http://www.texasrovers.org/larger.htm
  • lupin10lupin10 Member Posts: 10
    Its been a while since I've posted, so I'm not sure if its been discussed...are there going to be any changes in the 2004 Disco, or are they waiting to make any and all changes for the 2005 Expedition...uh, I mean, Disco?? I'm contemplating whether or not I should wait a few more months, or pick one up today or next month (hoping that the snow in the east coast will help reduce some of the cost of the SE, if the dealrs haven't met their quota).
    Thanks Guys!
  • johnedavies1johnedavies1 Member Posts: 20
    johnedavies1 Feb 25, 2003 8:34pm

    If you want CDL, wait and see if its available in the mY '04.
  • bryan28bryan28 Member Posts: 59
    Tin, could you see if there is any interesting info on a 02 SD Disco VIN SALTL15402A742264 with 15500 miles. It looks new, but wondering if has been taken care of. Thanks for your help! Bryan
  • bryan28bryan28 Member Posts: 59
    The LR dealer is willing to swap some 16" wheels and tires from a non performance package (ACE) Disco for the 18" set up on one that I want to buy so I have better off road performance. Does anybody see any potential problems with this swap. Won't I be getting the best of both worlds? Is there any known problems with the ACE system off road or on? Is the ACE system going to require more repairs? How long has the ACE system been around? Thanks for your help, I've gone through many posts and still have the questions. I plan to use the disco mainly for daily commute but also for weekend offroading with my boys. Thanks for your help! Bryan
  • intmed99intmed99 Member Posts: 485
    If you change out the 18" for 16" tires (stock i assume), then you should have no problems at all.

    ACE REQUIRES 18" tires, i think. The 16" tires are too soft on it's sidewall for ACE to work properly. Therefore, if you make the switch, then do NOT order ACE. ACE has been around since 1999 i think.

    I have heard a few problems with ACE. That is most LR salesman discourage customers from getting it.
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    I checked the history, vehicle has had the 7,500 mile service. It was built on 09/04/01 and has had a few electrical problems fixed under warranty. I see nothing that would prevent me buying it myself.
  • bryan28bryan28 Member Posts: 59
    Boy intmed99, if you are right it's too bad. I test drove a 00 disco with ACE yesterday and it was impressive. I think I have to have it. The only thing I wonder about is if I will get used to the noise it makes. I would think the 16" wheel with taller side wall tire would make the ride a little softer but I doubt the forces would be too much different than a non ACE truck. The G force would be the same, the car is just level. I'm sure I'm missing something, please clarify. Thanks Tin for your help too! Bryan
  • silentzsilentz Member Posts: 5
    Tin,
    I am a new member on here who is looking into buying a 00 Disco VIN SALTY154XYA266826 with 62487 miles on it. I called my local LR dealership trying to get service information, but they weren't as helpful as I would have hoped over the phone. If you don't mind, could you check it out and see if there is anything in this vehicles history that raises an eyebrow. Thanks a lot.

    Mike
  • keranthorkeranthor Member Posts: 1
    Hi all,

    Just reading through here. I noticed some confusion with ACE and the wheelsize options.

    It seems that LRNA only supplies you with 18" wheels if you have ACE. But in the rest of the world ACE also comes standard with 16" wheels.

    I know because mine came like that straight from Solihull. So the story that you need 18" wheels for ACE to work is simply not true.

    I cannot comment on the ride of 18" wheels, but ACE works perfect with 16"

    Kind regards
    Marc
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    I don't see anything out of the ordinary. It is not a one owner vehicle and was originally sold in Colorado.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    The difference between 16" and 18" tires will be the sidewall height. 16" tires have much taller sidewalls and so are less prone to pinch flats offroad. Likewise, they tend to "sway" more in cornering due to the longer tire carcass plies wrapping all the way down the sidewalls, across the tread and back up the other sidewall. Radial tires have truly radial plies, lying perpendicular to the direction of motion... and if the tires are oriented toward offroading they'll have softer (but tougher) sidewalls to allow deflection over rocks. The same soft sidewalls will allow sideways movement of the tire contact patch relative to the wheel, giving you a vague road feel in cornering.

    Since ACE is designed to make the Disco hustle hard on paved roads, it makes sense they'd fit it with the optimum tire for hustling... low profile 18"ers. The high profile 16"ers will feel a lot less precise in corners. But they get my vote for offroading.
  • letbigdogeatletbigdogeat Member Posts: 7
    Anyone know if the 05 redesign will include the option of a diesel engine in the US? Interesting commentary on diesels today at:
    http://www.cnn.com/2003/TECH/science/03/06/show.diesel.reut/index- - .html

    LOVING the new disco btw.
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