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Mazda3 Engine Issues

2

Comments

  • wise1wise1 Member Posts: 91
    My 1986.5 Nissan truck is having similar problems. At a stop sign or red light it idles very low and feels like it is going to choke off. The idle is not right, its either too high when very cold or too low when warmed up. Is this the PVC or The EGR??? This truck doesn't have a check engine light so its guess work as to what the problem really is!! I inherited it from my late father and he didn't do much maintenance on it so I'm trying to get it fixed one thing at a time. It only has 71k miles on it and should last a very long time. :shades: :shades:
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Is this the PVC or The EGR

    In my case, it was the EGR, in your case it could be the same or something else. One way of solving this is to get a diagnostic. Consider that the replacement cost for an EGR including labour could be several hundred dollars, you wouldn't want to waste the money replacing it if that did not solve the problem. The check engine light is just a warning signal; a diagnostic pulls up the trouble codes (likely OBD1 codes considering the age of your truck). Good luck!
  • wise1wise1 Member Posts: 91
    I have a Haynes manual on Nissan trucks that says that the Diag. code will be erased when the truck is cranked 50 times after the code is first given, so the computer will most likely not have anything on it. And OBD1 are not readily available at most garages in this area. :cry::cry: :sick:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    That is strictly a wrecker resource or some of the bigger swap meets, like Hershey in PA.

    I doubt anyone is reproducing these emblems.

    Now if it were a Mustang, you could order the entire car out of a catalog.

    Also check Hemmings Motor News for Ford Parts providers.
  • joem5joem5 Member Posts: 201
    when I step on the brakes at times the driver side lock clicks as if to lock. I stoppped to get my mail and the other 3 doors unlocked. Then I started car up and the seat belt alarm did'nt go on. While driving down the road I unbelted and the alarm went on.
    Lastly, when parked, if I pump brakes up there is a clicking sound under right side of dash.I've had a rattle in center of dash for two weeks,then these problems stated to occur.
    Do think a wiring harness is loose,or a computer is screwed up? :confuse:
  • jmbeazjmbeaz Member Posts: 5
    Code P0128 - Possible faulty ECT Sensor. Where is it and can I replace it, or is it a Dealer issue?
  • marockomolemarockomole Member Posts: 3
    I want to put a cold air intake on my 05 mazda3, Put all the intakes I have found mount the air filter down by the left front wheel behind the splash gaurd in the wheel well. I have herd somethings about water getting in to it when driving in the rain. Has anyone had this problem.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd never recommend mounting a cold air intake down below the level of your engine. It's not just a matter of water getting in--it's a question of driving through a deep puddle, and having a couple of cupfulls of water sucked up into the air intake. When that happens your engine is immediately ruined. There's no warning and no chance of survival. The piston tries to compress the water in the cylinder and bends the connecting rod---instant engine seizure.

    Yes you need a deep puddle and some back luck for this to happen, but it's a real risk.
  • cactus6cactus6 Member Posts: 3
    Was that your problem the ECT Sensor? Was it expensive to repair?

    We just purchased a 2004 Mazda 3 and the engine light came on yesterday.

    The code was the same as yours: PO128
    Coolant thermostat condition- low operating temperature

    Probable cause
    low coolant
    open or short circuit condition
    faulty ECT sensor

    Car drives great and shows no problems at all.
  • cactus6cactus6 Member Posts: 3
    We just purchased a 2004 Mazda 3 and the engine light came on yesterday.

    The code was the same as yours: PO128
    Coolant thermostat condition- low operating temperature

    Probable cause
    low coolant
    open or short circuit condition
    faulty ECT sensor

    Car drives great and shows no problems at all.

    Any one else have this problem or any advice?

    Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    well you have to take in it and have it tested to isolate the cause. A bad ECT sensor isn't so bad, but a sticking thermostat could be dangerous to your engine's health.
  • jason_bjason_b Member Posts: 2
    i have a 2004 Mazda3 with 40000 miles on it. was driving home stoped at a light. started out then a noise started sounded like a baseball card in the spokes of a bike. it sounds like the noise is coming from the top pulley witch looks to be a fixed pulley. dose anyone know more about this thank you for any help.
  • abdmazzaabdmazza Member Posts: 2
    theres is a reflash to correct this problem there is no part replacement needed the only thing is this is covered by the power train warrenty which is 5 years or 100,000kms (60,000miles) this is a dealer concern. hope this helps
    by mazda tech
  • cactus6cactus6 Member Posts: 3
    I am sorry for asking dumb questions here ... I don't know anything about cars.

    What is a reflash?

    Does this mean there is a power train problem?

    Thanks for your help!!!
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    "Reflash" is similar to a reset of your computer. Normally not a big deal.
  • vrodriguezvrodriguez Member Posts: 9
    My problem is the oposite. Temp is up to the "red". Took it to Autozone. They sugested to replace the MAFsensor ($170.00). Replaced it, didn't work. Item # 2, Replaced the Coolant Sensor($26.00). Still didn't worked. I'm in the process of replacing the Thermostat ($30) at this very moment. This will be the second time I replaced. First time was at 70k and now I've 92k. More to follow...

    Any suggestions?????
    What should I do to ensure the engine hasn't suffer damaged? What signs should I be on the look out for?
  • matt_the_mechmatt_the_mech Member Posts: 1
    I had this problem with my Ford ZX2, all you need to do is replace the thermostat and it is realitivly cheap and easy enough to do yourself if you have instructions.
  • anjy834uanjy834u Member Posts: 6
    But why did u change the spark plug ? was there any issue with it ? if not u should have left it as it is.. however Bosch plugs too are reliable.. i hope it gives no hiccups.
  • 06mazda306mazda3 Member Posts: 2
    Just looking for some info, today at random the check engine light came one. Other than being a few KMs over the recommended oil change time I can't seem to find a single problem.

    I'm pretty handy with cars and have given it a good once over. Everything sounds fine, drives fine and seems to be in sound order.

    I was thinking maybe an O2 sensor replacement but other than actually changing it I am not sure how to rule it out along with MAFs and so on.

    I'm guessing my best bet will be to bring it and have it scanned but I would like to try and rule out everything I can before resorting to that.

    Any ideas would be much appreciated.

    Thanks
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    All you are doing is wasting your time. There is only one way to find out what the problem is, and that is to have the fault codes read- anything else is merely a SWAG. Go to Autozone and they will read the codes for free.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • 06mazda306mazda3 Member Posts: 2
    As it turns out the car doesn't like being overdue for an oil change. Once that was done it went off but I will keep your suggestion in mind the next time the check engine light comes on.

    Thanks!!
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    edited May 2011
    I'm thinking I'm going to have to start believing in the Easter Bunny well before I'm going to believe an overdue oil change caused a check engine light. Something just doesn't add up here.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Probably a classic case of mixing up correlation with causation; obviously, during the service, something got changed (tightened gas cap? reconnected vacuum line?). Hard to say.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Agreed. :)
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    In 2012 Mazda is starting the introduction of its Skyactiv system. The Mazda3, Mazda2 and Mazda CX7 are all slated to incorporate elements of the system.

    See the Mazda press release: http://www.mazda.com/publicity/release/2011/201105/110518a.html
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I've been following the SkyActiv progress since it was first leaked to the press a year and a half ago (or so); personally I'm waiting for the Mazda3 to appear on our shores with this engine:

    http://www.mazda.com/mazdaspirit/skyactiv/engine/skyactiv-d.html

    and with this transmission:

    http://www.mazda.com/mazdaspirit/skyactiv/transmission/skyactiv-mt.html

    :shades:
  • ex_tdierex_tdier Member Posts: 277
    Just wondering what would be the typical causes of your engine not turning over quickly. Mine takes about 5+ seconds while my neighbour who has the same model and year takes less than 2 seconds after the you turn the key.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    First thing I'm thinking is battery if the car is cranking slowly. But if you mean that it's turning over fine, but is taking longer to start, that's another matter. With fuel injection, there's no longer any need to have your foot on the gas when you start up. Some of us who are old enough to remember manual chokes on car (yea, I'm in that category) SOMETIMES forget that and lean on the gas as we crank the car. The engines in my Versas are prone to flooding if I do that and crank times are longer than when I just let the fuel injection do what it's supposed to.
  • marockomolemarockomole Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 Mazda 3,2.3 motor. Was having a similar problem about a month ago. Even though the battery checked out fine from the local AutoZone I put a new one in anyway and the problem went away
  • adamwestlawadamwestlaw Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a Mazda 3 with 70K miles and in the last month it stalled 2X - once on the interstate when my pregnant wife was driving and then 2 days ago in a parking garage.

    - No engine code, but all the lights turned on during the stall.

    Did you find out the problem? The dealership mentioned water in gas but that does not make a lot of sense to me. it starts up immediately after the stall.
  • bmpskierbmpskier Member Posts: 2
    edited July 2012
    I recently purchased a 2005 Mazda 3 with 110,000km on it. It was clean and well taken car of inside and out. It was maintained regularly by the first Owner at the dealership per the Mazda Service Schedule. All service records came with the car. I had it checked out before I bought it and did a thorough self maintenance check on everything at about 110,800km.

    At 112,300km I noticed an engine noise that led me to believe it could be a sticky valve or lifter so I immediately checked the oil. It was down 3 quarts (this in the less than 1500km I had driven since I performed the self check) with not a drop of oil under the engine or any smoke from the exhaust.

    After a visit to the dealership I found out that running it so low on oil threw a bearing in the crankshaft and as a consequence I am now in the process of replacing the engine.

    After speaking with the service manager I discovered that the 2.3 engines are known to suddenly start burning oil without any warning or evidence, as much as 1 litre every 500km. Searching through numerous on-line forums I confirmed that it's a prevalent issue with an abnormally high percentage of these cars, some having experienced the problem as early as 80,000K. The apparent cause is a collapsed oil seal inside the engine and the only solution to address the oil consumption, according to the service dept (outside of an outright engine replacement as it's too costly to fix) is to change to heavier oil. This will slow the rate of consumption but it won't stop it. The 2.0 and 2.5 engines do not seem to have this problem.

    Mazda Corp apparently knows about this (the service department I deal with told me that numerous delerships across the country have brought it forward to them) but fails to recognize there is an issue. What puzzled me most is that when looking into the cost of a replacement engine, the Mazda factory rebuilt engine was only warranted for 1 year or 20,000K when all their other engines are warranted similar to what would be provided on a new car power train.

    I am not laying blame on anyone anyone but myself for my predicament. Had I checked the oil every fill-up, as is recommended, I would have a car that burns oil but would not have had to replace the engine; however, IMHO, any vehicle made in the last 10 years with less than 200K on the odometer, and maintained regularly, should not be burning oil at all, let alone at the rate I and many other owners have experienced.

    Heads up to all owners with Mazda 2.3L engines.
  • matsuda3matsuda3 Member Posts: 2
    excuse me bmpskier
    what did you do with your engine issue? I have just purchased a mazda 3 with 80K and now it is using oil .. one spark plug is black - oily all others normal. thanks
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    2005 Mazda 3 with 110,000km ... It was maintained regularly by the first Owner at the dealership per the Mazda Service Schedule. All service records came with the car. I had it checked out before I bought it and did a thorough self maintenance check on everything
    So, there was no documentation of the oil burning issue in the last 7 years? Did you contact Mazda head office?
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    Another one and done. Can you say guerrilla marketing?

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • matsuda3matsuda3 Member Posts: 2
    Mazda head office told me contact the dealer. The dealer said no recalls on that and my engine will need to be replaced and just keep adding oil.
  • bmpskierbmpskier Member Posts: 2
    I ended up replacing the factory engine with a complete re-manufactured engine from a reputable company. it came with a 3 year 80,000KM warrantee. NOTE that it was not an OEM re-manufacturer directly from Mazda as this option was quite a bit more money and only came with a 20,000km/1 year warrantee ( Mazda not providing an original warrantee on their own engine is a little disconcerting).

    Oddly enough the new re-manufactuered engine also burns oil, about 0.75L every 1500km although now that I am aware of the issue I check the oil more frequently (every fill up).

    Generally I love the car and the way it handles; however, as I stated previously burning this amount of oil in an engine should not be happening with cars designed and constructed in the last 10 years. Being as Mazda apparently does not acknowledge this issue as being design flaw and flips the onus of responsibility onto the Owner, I doubt I will ever buy from Mazda again.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    I don't think it's an issue with the 2.3; I'd say that the PO of your car and the quality of the rebuild have more to do with your engine's oil consumption.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • wickedhugewickedhuge Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Mazda 3. Yesterday I had my car running and forgot something inside so I turned it off and ran in real quick. When I came back out the car wouldn't start. The battery is fine. when I turn the key I hear a click and kind of a hiss for a second. Any insight would be appreciated. thanks
  • edbeedbe Member Posts: 1
    I had an 05 with under 60K miles and the engine blew on it because of the oil issue. Got the car new and retired it 7 years later with a blown motor, of course Mazda wont take ownership of the issue. I spent $20K + for a new car that lasted 7 years WTF!!!

    Cost to replace the motor was insane even from corner mechanics that do engine swaps. Interior materials were were not great, the car didnt hold on the interior either, the cloth material on the drivers side door was peeling off. The paint on the car was super thin too, I had scratches on the car that were down to the primer that should have never happened.

    That was my first and last Mazda.
  • tom390tom390 Member Posts: 1
    From new 2013 Mazda 3 cold start engine ran on three cylinders for about a minute or so. This progressively got worse until finally threw a code that #1 cylinder was misfiring. Dealer checked ,plugs & wires, replaced the coil and proceeded to pull the intake manifold to check or replace the injector. Only to discover that the head was leaking antifreeze into the cylinder; hence the cold start misfire. After the antifreeze was burned off by the excess gas being injected into the cylinder and finally igniting it ran ok. Now Mazda wants to change engines however I'm will not except a car that has less than 1000 miles on it with a second engine. Have there been other reports of this problem?
  • elminstelminst Member Posts: 1
    I have had this same issue twice in my 2005 Mazda 3 in the past 2 months.
    Both of mine happened after extended driving (1 hr and ~2.5 hrs highway)
    If I let the car sit for ~15 minutes, it will start up. Almost like it needed to cool down. the temp gauge reads normal.
    The battery is fine, only 5 months old. My regular shop did not find anything wrong with the starter motor and a transmission fluid flush was done between incidents.
    It has been driven without issues many times in between these incidents, including several other 2+ hour highway trips, and during a week of 90-100 deg temps.
  • auyeung001auyeung001 Member Posts: 9
    Had my usual oil change (60K miles) in a Mazda dealership late July and was told there was a leak in the oil pan. Interestingly, that dealership did not notice this problem in March during a regular scheduled oil change when my vehicle was still under warranty. My car's warranty expired in late May and a leak was discovered in July. Just like to know everyone's opinion on this case. Would you consider the practice of this dealership suspicious?
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    I'm thinking NOT suspicious. An oil change would not involve removing the oil pan, so that eliminates any chance that a gasket was torn or damaged by removing the pan. And if the leak didn't start until July, then it wouldn't have been seen in March. And I'd have to read the warranty, but I'd be surprised if a simple leak at the oil pan is a covered item anyway.

    I'd put this one in the simple coincidence column.
  • overhauloverhaul Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Mazda 3 2.3 L 5 speed manual with 155k miles. It's been burning oil recently and just recently starting having a rattling noise coming from the engine compartment. I hear the noise at around 2.5 RPMs and the noise happens when I release the gas petal. I replaced the spark plugs a week or 2 before this started and they didn't have the recommended ones in stock but they said they have another kind that will work. I also noticed when replacing the spark plugs that there was oil on the first one on the passenger side. Has anyone had similar issues? I am in despite need of help and I need to keep costs down
  • tripticktriptick Member Posts: 1
    I have an 05 Mazda 3. I have the same oil problem-it degenerated quickly. All of a sudden uses a litre per week (about 500 km). I am disappointed. I know the cost of repair will be prohibitive but in this day and age at 150,000 km I expect a bit more from a japanese manufacturer. I have an acura tl with over 200k km and no problems like this at all and I don't expect to have them and it is a 2001. sorry Mazda, you aren't listening and can't cut the mustard. last Mazda I will ever own.
  • linkedingurulinkedinguru Member Posts: 1
    Have been experiencing rod knock between 2.5 and 3K RPM. Burning oil. Engine needs to be replaced.Very unhappy with Mazda.
  • manfred3manfred3 Member Posts: 1

    I would like to comment on the 2.3 engine - lack of oil issue . We have had the car new since day one and has been regularily serviced at the same dealership . The last oil change was less than 3000 kms ago , last week we heard a knocking noise in the engine compartment , when i checked the oil - there was no oil to be checked . Took it to a local garage and they added almost 4 litres of oil , there where no signs of leaks or blue smoke from the tail pipe . Then took it to local mazda dealership - they could not explain the disappearance of almost four litres of oil in less than 3000 kms - they would take no ownership of the problem whatsoever . Now i need a new engine . I would NEVER buy another Mazda , this engine should have been able to go for at least 200,000 kms . Lesson learned - stick with a reliable Toyota product .

  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372

    @manfred3 said:
    I would like to comment on the 2.3 engine - lack of oil issue . We have had the car new since day one and has been regularily serviced at the same dealership . The last oil change was less than 3000 kms ago , last week we heard a knocking noise in the engine compartment , when i checked the oil - there was no oil to be checked . Took it to a local garage and they added almost 4 litres of oil , there where no signs of leaks or blue smoke from the tail pipe . Then took it to local mazda dealership - they could not explain the disappearance of almost four litres of oil in less than 3000 kms - they would take no ownership of the problem whatsoever . Now i need a new engine . I would NEVER buy another Mazda , this engine should have been able to go for at least 200,000 kms . Lesson learned - stick with a reliable Toyota product .

    I'm thinking it was likely a problem with the service department rather than the car. I had a similar experience about 5 years ago. I had been having my vehicles regularly serviced at the dealership I have been buying cars from since 1979, and they'd always been great. The dealership got sold to new owners and they made some personnel changes in the service department. I had regular service done on my one car that had 150,000+ miles on it and less than a week later it seemed to be running a bit hot and noisy, so I went to a friend's shop and the oil was VERY low. I sort of chalked it up to the possibility that the old car had started to burn oil... UNTIL... I had our brand new car serviced shortly after, and about a week later found the oil level was also VERY low. As I knew the new car wasn't burning oil, the only possibility was either incompetent service or a problem with their oil dispenser. I switched my regular service to my friend's shop, and never had the oil level problem again. The high mileage car made it to 238,000 miles with no oil issues, so I'm pretty sure I figured out the problem correctly.

    The dealer's service department lost my trust, so I take that business elsewhere. But I still buy my vehicles there.

  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    edited January 2014

    Of course some Mazda owners(like me) resort to that onerous and archaic habit of checking the oil at every fuel stop. The dipstick is there for a reason, you know.
    At 132,000 miles my MS3 has only required one oil top-up between 7,500 mile oil changes- and that was after a three day HPDE...

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372

    @roadburner said:
    Of course some Mazda owners(like me) resort to that onerous and archaic habit of checking the oil at every fuel stop. The dipstick is there for a reason, you know.
    At 132,000 miles my MS3 has only required one oil top-up between 7,500 mile oil changes- and that was after a three day HPDE...

    Yea, I'm a dinosaur too. I always pay attention to what my cars are telling me and take note of any changes in how things are operating.

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