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Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II

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  • nanuq, thanks, taking one of the mechanics out is a great idea, i'm worried that it won't completely fail until after the warranty expires!

    it did it 2 times in the last week. of course it hasn't done it during 2 pretty long test drives with the service manager, arrgh.

    i'm sure it'll get straightened out one way or the other. i'll take a look under her and see what i can figure out in terms of whether i can manage a fluid change on the transmission.

    thanks again, i'll let you know what ultimately happens with it.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Your Disco is probably different than my DI but it's a cinch to change my fluid... just drain it (into a BIG container) and then refill thru the check tube in the engine compartment. They recommend Hylomar on the plug threads but don't sweat it... it won't leak.

    Hmmmmmmm come to think of it... can the fluid be changed in your truck? Did I read about that somewhere?

    Tincup???
  • Deal just offered $125 over invoice on a 2003 LR Disco Se. Any others have recent buying experiences, and if so, does this sound like a competitive price? Thanks
  • Has anyone had the opportunity to purchase a Land Rover from the UK or any other country and transported it to the US? Anyone have any info. on the conversion process for US Standards? I have an opportunity to purchase a 2004 Defender Td5 from the Rome dealership in Italy and was wondering if the conversion to US standards $$ would be worth it. My out of pocket for the transport is $0. Any info. is greatly appreciated...

    Odiopus
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,919
    Gray market cars have lots of interesting issues; after you get them registered and licensed, you usually have no warranty coverage and sometimes getting parts is a hassle (parts may not be as big an issue with a Rover as some other makes though?).

    Bill Gate's Porsche is now street legal. Only took him ten years to get it certified and out of the bonded customs warehouse :-)

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • Converted vehicles show up on LRX.com and eBay periodically. Post-conversion prices have been in the low to mid $50k neighborhood. That may give you a sense of cost based on your known purchase price, plus some expected profit for the seller. I'll contact someone I know has done it recently (to a td5 Defender) to see if they're willing to share any info.
  • Rather than import a Defender, why not emigrate to the UK. Here Defenders are 10 a penney so it would probably work out cheaper in the long run :.)
  • I heard that the only change in 2004 for the Disco is that the manual locking differential is going to be standard, nice!

    As for 2005, here is an update from the Aug. 25th edition of Automotive News:
    "Purists, have no fear: The Discovery stays on a Land Rover platform and does not migrate to the Ford Explorer as some had theorized. The redesign comes in fall 2004.

    The redesigned Discovery will have a longer wheelbase and overall length, but it will be narrower and lower in height. While the width will address the narrow streets and parking spaces in Europe and Japan, the added length accommodates a third row of seats.

    The redesigned Discovery will be powered by a version of Jaguar's 4.2-liter V-8.

    Although the vehicle's structure will be mounted on a ladder frame, its ride gets mellowed with independent front and rear suspension."
  • Here's what I got back from someone who's done it:

    ". . . it costs $15,000 and 2 months of paperwork to get one in and there is no way around it if you want to keep it legal. Also, it can NEVER be
    registered in California. The compliance papers are issued after it has been to the EPA Testing labs and the Dot and Customs have all been paid. There is no guarantee of a pass at the EPA either."

    He researched it quite a bit in advance, and the process is involved but doable. Patience and cash are required in large quantities. Presently, he's importing 2 more for specific customers which will sell for $62k and $64k.

    Makes an "off-the-shelf" Disco look pretty attractive. Now if they would just offer the diesel . . .
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    ......do this when they can get a vintage D90 for half that, and it will increase in value over the years?

    Unless you use it like I use my Anuqa... ;)
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    There's a D110 for sale at the dealer here, "only" $58,000.

    We were up on Byron glacier last week, here are some nice pictures:

    http://www.nanuq.net/Troop215/byronglacier2003/byronglacier2003.h- tm
  • I am considering the purchase of a 2000 disco II with 97000 miles on it. Am I crazy? This vehicle is cheap - and rightly so. What are common repairs at 100k ? Timing belt?etc?Rust on both alpine windows and top of tailgate window - is this common? Driver's seat is severely ripped and cargo area has many bumps and bruises. This is a seven seater with dual a/c and dual moon roofs and most other bells and whistles. Vin#SALTY1245YA242471 -tincup47, could you please advise.
  • disco99disco99 Posts: 74
    Ask yourself a few questions---
    why is the driver's seat severely ripped?
    why are there so many bumps and bruises in the cargo area?
    why is there rust on three year old truck?

    I could be wrong here but the previous drivers don't strike me as being overly protective of their disco----
    Do you think they were changing their engine fluid every 3k?

    what kind of care did the car get after warranty expired?
    just be careful--Make sure to follow the veterans in this forum-I've found their tips to be very helpful.
    good luck
  • disco99disco99 Posts: 74
    Would anyone know whether A D1 load space cover would fit a D299....
  • Am considering replacing my DII Wrangler HP's with a set of BFG A/T's in 255 or 265/70-16. Would prefer to buy 4 rather than 5 and have one waste away hanging on the rear door. Aside from some interesting handling issues, would the short-term, emergency use of the under-sized spare cause any upset to the drivetrain/ECT system? Would the diffs. compensate for the difference in tire heights? i.e. approx. 29.3 in. vs 30.7 in
  • Help Guys, my wife wants to change her faithful DII for a Jeep Grand Cherokee. The local dealer is offering a huge discount cos these trucks are not good sellers in the UK, so it does seem like a lot of car for the money. The big soft leather seats and canny cup holders have wooed the wife into wanting one and I am struggling to talk her out of it. Can someone please feed me a few good reasons why the Grand Cherokee really doesn't hack it as a family SUV which doesn't spend much time off road but does need to handle UK winding lanes and some snow & ice.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    My brother's wife had a GJC for two years and in that time, had it in the shop SEVEN times for transmission and differential work. The trans was replaced once. My other sister-in-law had a GJC and it lost the front differential and transmission in a 2-year period. My father-in-law had one as well, and so far (touch wood) he hasn't had it in the shop. None of these trucks *ever* go offroad. Ever.

    The GJC feels very sporty compared to a Disco, and feels low and taught. But I do not have confidence in its drivetrain. It also has a less-useful cargo space (not as angular and tall). The seat leather is also nowhere near the grade of that used on DIs... not sure how it compares to the DII.

    If you have children, bear in mind they will want to drive the GJC some day and it will attain speed much quicker than a DII. Not always a good thing. And should the worst happen, they are MUCH safer in the DII than in the GJC.

    http://www.landroverclub.net//Club/HTML/Main_Wrecks.htm

    I hope this helps, -Bob
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    I would probably walk away from that vehicle. I can't go into specifics on why I feel that way due to privacy issues. What disco99 said makes a lot of sense. It was maintained up to the expiration of the warranty and had few issues during that period. There are no records after that.
  • buroskyburosky Posts: 90
    Three words:

    Safety, safety, safety.

    I've seen the pictures in the URL Nanuq posted. Those pictures says it all. If I remember correctly, there even was one person who dropped by this board who was in one of those wrecks. What a testimony!
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    A D2 loadspace area is about 8-10" longer than a Discovery I, so the loadspace covers or mats are not interchangeable.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    D99: I don't think the load space cover will work. I believe they extended that DII back end about 6" or a foot over the DI. Too bad, I just threw my load space cover away... haven't used it in 5 years.

    Tire sizes: You're not talking much difference in diameter, and if you don't need to travel far I wouldn't worry about it. You're running a very similar setup to what I have. The diffs will compensate, so you'll have a continuous speed difference between the sides of about 4.5% which I seriously doubt will activate the ETC. It's a good concern though...

    Tincup can you tell us the speed differential between wheels required to activate the ETC? And is there a road speed at which it shuts off?

    One thing to consider, you can put that extra 5th tire into the rotation as you move your wheels around between corners of the truck, and gain an extra 20% tread life over not having it. But it will cost 25% more to accomplish this. Which is why I don't do it. *grin*

    Take a look at some 265/75-16s. They'll look great and will rub only mildly with big articulation. A little lift to your suspension will help with that. Note these will require a lot of trimming to fit a DI.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    From another *very* technical website regarding Discos:

    Discovery Series I

    235/70-16: Stock tire size.

    205/80-16: Stock size in many other countries. same height as 235/70-16.

    255/65-16: same height as stock

    225/75-16: little taller than stock

    245/70-16: little taller and wider than the stock size. reportedly, no need for lift, just minor trimming to fit those tires.

    245/75-16: popular size for OME suspension lifted vehicles. require slight trimming on the rear wheel well fender, and may also call for adjustment on the steering bumpstops.

    215/85-16: same height as 245/75-16. but narrower. seems to be preferred for the snow and mud.

    265/70-16: about as tall as 245/75-16, but wider. will require more trimming and steering bump stops adjustments along with taller bump stops over the rear axle.

    265/75-16: almost 32" tall. Same as stock NAS D90 tires. Will require even more trimming.

    235/85-16: same height as 265/75-16 but narrower. And seems to be the most popular size with OME lift.

    255/85-16: about 33" tall...very few people have fitted this size. Lots of butchering for this one.

    285/75-16: about 33" also... but very very wide.

    Discovery Series II

    255/65-16: Stock tire size.

    255/70-16: Just a bit taller than stock.

    265/75-16: Taller and wider than stock, possible to fit without lift. minor rubbing. Looks real balanced with mild OME lift.

    285/75-16: even taller than 265/75-16, r requires a bit more lift than the regular OME lift. some have fitted OME751 from Discovery series I, and changed SLS sensor in the rear to achieve almost 3 inches. Gearing and shaft strenght become issues.

    255/85-16: a bit taller than 285/75-15 but narrower. Gearing and shaft strenght become issues.
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    The workshop manual states that the ECU averages the speeds from the 4 ABS sensors. If any wheel speed increases from the average, then the system activates on that wheel. It does not give a specific threshold for activation.
     For traction control, from 0 to 31 mph,the ETC uses brake intervention to maintain torque distribution between wheels on the same axle. From 0 to 62 MPH ETC also uses brake intervention in axle pairs to maintain torque distribution between the front and rear axles.
  • ejohnsejohns Posts: 9
    I own a '99 Disco II with 66k miles - runs wonderful! In fact, I love my disco but lately, say in the last day or so, I've noticed that my steering gets stiff when slowing to come to a complete stop. At times its hard to turn. No lights are illuminated and everything else runs fine. Not sure what to make of the steering thing. I'm rolling with Goodyear which I hate, replacing quickly! Not mechanically inclined so any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • disco99disco99 Posts: 74
    I guess I'll have to keep looking--
    I appreciate the info.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Thanks again, Tincup.

    From those details I don't think I'd recommend running a different size tire as a spare for a DII. If it's trying to apply the brakes to that smaller tire as you drive, to slow it down to the same rotational speed as the other 3 wheels, then you can do significant damage.

    Now, if someone were to pull the fuse that runs the ETC system and ABS system, I suppose he could limp home that way, but... it's not a very smart idea.

    For the DI it's a different story... there's no ETC to mess with. You will still have differential speeds between wheels on the same axle but hey... that's what the diff is designed for, right? Just DO NOT lock anything... axle lockers if you have them installed, or the central diff lock. Then you should be okay for the (brief) drive to the repair shop.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Man it could be almost anything. Maybe you have bad fuel and its idle speed drops waaaay down as you decelerate? Maybe the TPI (throttle position indicator) is going south? Does it otherwise idle and shift normally? Are your front tires low on air pressure? Perhaps a slipping belt to the power steering pump? Low fluid in the power steering reservoir? Are both front sets of brake pads in good shape? Maybe you're thru to the metal on one set and trying to brake with only one front wheel? Maybe the carpet beneath your feet got pushed forward so it's into the steering column as it turns? How about the steering damper, did it get bent and is now contacting the suspension components when you put on the brakes and the weight shifts forward?

    Look her over... it should be pretty obvious what's up. Watch the tach carefully when you do this... your RPM shouldn't drop below 700 RPM or so.

    Good luck, -Bob
  • Thanks, Nanuq and Tincup for your learned responses. I also posed the same query on DiscoWeb and the comments were also overwhemingly against a smaller spare. Guess I'll go for 5 (or 6) new tires.
  • Smarticus, here in the colonies, the JGC has a lousy rep for safety and reliability. Yet, we have owned two that have each gone more than 110K with only brakes (three or four times each vehicle), shocks, tires, and a fair amount of A/C work (we Americans like our A/C but at $1500 a pop to fix a JGC we give up at 110K.)

    Naturally, we run Mobil 1, Red Line ATF, and are obsessive about fluid changes, regular detailing (at $100 a car, why not every couple of months? You might not trade a clean, shiny car so often.), running better than OEM tires, good shocks, slotted brakes, etc.

    Is a JGC a more reliable car than a Disco? Is it more fun? I suspect that the answers to those two questions believe it or not are culturally based. I think that one would say yes and no if you were in the States and, conversely, say no and yes, if you were a Brit. What do you think?
  • I have noticed a clunking noise (rear end?) in my '01 Disco when I brake to a slower speed and then press the accelerator to increase speed again. This sounds a bit like a precursor to a transmission problem to me, but the technician at my dealer says it is not an unusual situation for this rover. Any thoughts???
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