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Porsche 944 and 924

124

Comments

  • todd82tatodd82ta Posts: 32
    edited March 2010
    Hi, if your odometer is not turning, and you can verify that the cable IS in fact turning, the the problem is likely in the odometer itself. Can you try spinning the odometer feed by sticking in a small philips head or something to get leverage? Or even putting a square tip into a power drill. If you don't see the tenths moving, then what could be the problem is that either the gears are messed up, or they are gummed up.. which would likely mean the gear that powers the entire assembly is spinning freely from the shaft.

    As far as the wiper control motor... I assume this is an 83-85 Porsche 944? The wiper controls are very easy to change out, but you'll have to remove the steering wheel. You then have to remove the TOP and BOTTOM of the steering column "shell". it looks like a clam-shell. I think there are two or three small philips head screw drivers. You can then remove the top and bottom, and you'll be able to get at the wiper stalk. You can see here inthis picture on my site where I removed the wheel and you can see how it's attached. One you remove the steering wheel, you'll have to remove those three brass screws that hold the retaining plate on (also shown in pictrure)

    http://www.pontiacperformance.net/CarImages/84_Porsche/944_gauge_3_lrg.jpg

    EDIT: Just wanted to make sure I Was clear. There are little philips head screws that hold the "clam-shell" together that encases the outer part of the steering column. Those screws are located from the bottom. You'll see them once you look under there. YOu remove those three and then you can take them off. Then of course once the steering wheel and that is off, then you remove those three screws from the backing plate (that you'll see in the picture from my site) and that comes off (careful) and you can easily unbolt the wiper control stalk with like two small screws.
  • dark944dark944 Posts: 9
    I have an 88 944. I have taken the steering wheel off. I have tried to push the odometer but its resistant. i did not want to force but maybe that is the problem.

    The wiper controls do not contact I have to hold them forward slightly before they conect and the arms move. So I was thinking of just replacing it but like I say I have not seen replacements.

    thanks for the reply.
  • I just got a 1984 Porsche 944 on Friday. I love it!! Today I drove it (for my first time) and took it to work. It began raining at the end of the day. When I got in the car after work, I did not notice any leaking/wet spots. A few hours after I got home, I went into the car to get something and noticed the passenger side floor mat and carpet underneath the mat were soaking wet. And when I say soaking, I mean I hung the mat from the back of my husband's pick up truck and the water was dripping off it. When I opened the hood, I noticed that next to the battery there are 3 small holes. When I stuck my hand up behind the glove compartment area, I could feel water there too.

    Could the water have run in from the engine compartment into the cabin? (I was parked on a slight incline) What are these 3 holes next to the battery for? Is there something that I can put in these holes to prevent any further leaking?

    Thanks for your help!

    84porschegrl :cry:
  • todd82tatodd82ta Posts: 32
    Hi 84 Porsche Girl,

    This is EXACTLY where your problem is. Unfortunately, the Porsche 944 is notorious for having leaks in predominantly two areas, the sunroof, and the battery tray. There should be NO holes in the floor of the battery tray. You should see two holes however, one coming from the sid that goes into what looks like the fender area, and I believe this comes from a drain hole in the sunroof. The other hole should be a spout which drains the area around the battery and into the engine compartment (but presumably onto the ground and not on the engine). Unfortunately, the battery tray functions as both a water runoff from the cowl-area and a battery tray.

    You MUST plug those holes or it will continue to leak water into your car. You MUST make sure too that you don't allow this to continue or you will get mold in your car. The Porsche uses an older style carpet backing which is a foamy jute type material. It absorbes water and will grow mold if left in the sun afterwards with the wndows up.

    The right way to repair this area would be to weld a patch panel in it. This is what I did with my 84. I ground the area down with a wire brush until the area was completely opened up and then welded a small patch on it. If this is absolutely not an option, you could try to seal it using something like "Rhino Liner" or some sort of truck bed material. (RTV sealant will scrape right off).

    Hope that helps.

    FYI, it's leaking onto your A/C fan.
  • lemmerlemmer Posts: 2,676
    Todd, with all that knowledge, you need to get another 944.

    I bought my '86 from a guy similar to you. He bought it running and in decent shape for around $5,500 on eBay. Over the next year, he spent a couple thousand more replacing injectors, the clutch, tires, the timing belt and water pump, etc. (not including his free labor). At that point, the car still had a couple paint issues, some rips in the seats and a nonworking AC. After getting the shaft from two different eBayers, he sold it to me for $2500. I've had it for three years now. I put some nice seat covers on it. Other than, the only thing I've done is changed the DME relay. I've had the urge to do a little paintwork, fix the AC, recover the seats, etc. I've resisted knowing that I'll be the one selling the car at a big loss afterwards. These are definitely cars you need to buy completely done unless you are looking for a labor of love.
  • ohio1948ohio1948 Posts: 2
    the holes around battery are to drain runoff from battery area which will fill if undrained. Your leak is likely from rear hatch or sunroof . This seals dry out. Check the drain holes at rear hatch which should be at each bottom.
  • todd82tatodd82ta Posts: 32
    Yeah, it's definitely a labor of love. I miss my Porsche 944 a LOT too..

    But, I'm back to school after work two days a week, and I now have a daughter, so all the fun stuff had to take a back seat for a couple of years.

    I took a big loss on my 944 as well. I bought it for $1,500 or something? Put about 4 grand into it in which I basically completely tore apart the car from bottom to top, and then sold it for $2,018. I picked the guy up from the airport and drove it up from Fort Lauderdale to Ohio. He drives it every day to work and loves it... says he gets 30+ miles to the gallon on the highway... sigh...

    When I'm finished with school, I'll get another one.

    I still have my Pontiac Fiero (first car) and a 73 VW Bus both in the garage... so I dunno where I'll have the room for the Porsche if / when I get another one. I REALLY REALL like the 944 though and will definitely get one of those before I get any other kind of Porsche. I still have a totally rebuilt 1969 Olds 455 big block rated at around 480hp with no car to put it on... it's just sitting on an engine stand in the garage.

    Maybe I'll sell that and buy my Porsche 944? hehe....
  • dark944dark944 Posts: 9
    Hello 84porschegrl, Yes if you open the hood and look on the drivers side of your car junt under the windshield you will see your fuse box. Behind it and below is an openeing for water to drain. make sure these stay free of leaves and stuff otherwise the water will rise and your driverside will get wet. If you have and air compressor just stick in and blow it out. If not put a vacum nossel from the car wash in there and suck it out. The same goes for the battery side however its easier to get to by removing the battery. hope that helped. :blush:
  • Thanks for all the tips everyone!! We found a clog in one of the drains and blew it out with an air compressor and no more leaks!! YAY!!

    Now my other problem. When I bought the car, the air conditioning worked. Now, it will not blow out cold air. There is free-on (sp?) in the car and it seems like the compressor is not working. Is this common for these cars? Could there be something else causing this to happen?
  • todd82tatodd82ta Posts: 32
    It's no more or less common in the Porsche 944 than it is on any other car that's 25 years or older.

    If it were mine, the first thing I would check would be to see if the compressor is actually spinning. You can check this by starting your car, and then engaging the A/C. You should hear a fan turn on under the passenger side of the dash. Remember, the 944 actually has TWO cabin fans... there is a fresh-air fan which is ALWAYS running. That is the fan that's actually located inside the cowl area in the very center. Even with the fan switch turned completely off, it's still running slowly to create flow-through venthilation. The other fan ONLY comes on cars equipped with A/C, and that is the one located on the passenger side. When you turn the A/C fan knob (top of center console), you'll hear this fan go on. If you do NOT hear the fan go on, then there's something wrong with either the fan, or the circuit. For the life of me, I don't have any of my Porsche manuals or anything else left of my Porsche except a EuroSpec 944 front bumper in my attic, so I can't tell you exactly what fuse it is. However, you'll want to check your manual and see if you can find what fuses and or relays control the A/C and test them.

    If the fan turns on, that means the inside is OK. Go outside and pop the hood of the car. Look at the A/C compressor and check to see if the "clutch" has engaged. If the CLUTCH has engaged, you will physically see the front of the A/C compressor spinning. If the front of the compressor is not spinning, then that means the compressor has not engaged, and it's doing nothing more than acting as a dead pulley (IE: the belt will freely turn the compressor pulley, but it's not engaging the clutch).

    This can mean any number of things. Typically... when freon (R12 or R134a if it's been retrofitted) is low, it alerts a low pressure sensor which prevents the clutch from engaging. This is to save the compressor from burning out since without freon, it's likely not getting any oil in the lines either. These sensors can ALSO go bad, and it would be something you'd want to investigate if in fact you did have the correct pressure level at both he high and low pressure fittings.

    That would be my next step however... is to check the freon level. You'll want to get the appropriate guages and check the levels.

    If everything seems good, but you're STILL not getting cool air, then check the vent operation. This of course is the lever that allows you to switch between fresh air and cabin recirculation. Some of the flaps in the ductwork are controlled by vacuum, so it's possible that it's just not properly blowing the cool air (although it would likely default to the window defrost. Anyway, you can check the vacuum lines by disconnecting it at the vacuum canister. This canister is located JUST to the passenger side of the cowl fan I mentioned earlier. It's a cyl with a half spherical end. Disconnect the hose from the back and put your finger on it while the car is running. If you feel vacuum, there is good vacuum. More than likely however, you would hear a hissing noise inside your car (subtle) and your idle would be 100-150-200 rpms higher than it should.

    Hope that helps...
  • tguer1tguer1 Posts: 1
    I bought an 86 944 the week between Christmas and New Years and love it. I've owned BMW's, Audis, VW's, and even a Mercedes but I love my Porsche a lot more. It's a lot of fun to drive. Is there any 944 clubs in this country?
  • cogitojazzcogitojazz Posts: 13
    Hi, Everyone. Greetings from Athens, OH. I'm thinking about buying a 944, found several with under 100K in my region, including an 88 with 65K. Would be my daily drive car, between 400-600 miles per month. Need to know safety factor - people drive BADLY here, how is it in snow, and $ to insure. Also, following repair posts, how much of this could I do myself with limited tech skill and tools? Trading my 03 Nissan Maxima SE, 6 speed. Thanks!
  • Hi Athens: My advice, buy the nicest 944 you can afford. I tell people I have $9,000 in to my car and I can get $2,000 all day. The point is that mechanics if you are not handy are always expensive. In my area I find really clean 944's for say $5,000, It does not make sense buying one for $3,000 to get in. Knowing what I know, I would buy one for $7,000. You can substitute your own numbers. Jon
  • todd82tatodd82ta Posts: 32
    I completely concur... I bought a $1,500 dollar Porsche 944, blew literally $7,500 into it, completely replaced the ENTIRE interior (dash, seats, carpet, etc... even the buttons). Re-did the entire engine compartment, fuel pump, fuel lines, seals... even removed the quarter windows, replaced the seals, and re-installed them.

    I sold my Porsche 944 for $2,018 after my daughter was born.

    Spend the most you can up front to get the best one you can. If maintenance is not really your thing, get an 85.5+ so you don't have to worry about belt tensioning (as much).

    Honestly, they're not good daily drivers unless you know how to work on cars. A single screw costs like $5 bucks... a simple crank sensor (of which there are two) will cost you $175 a piece...
  • cogitojazzcogitojazz Posts: 13
    Thanks for the quck responses. I'm not very mechanically inclined - though I can learn - but I'm STILL interested in the 944, but also looking at a Mazda 6 Touring Plus 4 cyl. If I buy the Porsche, I'll post it! Cogito, ergo zoom!
  • todd82tatodd82ta Posts: 32
    Yeah, the 944 is an amazing car... I had TONS of fun with mine. But it's not a car for someone who isn't already knowledgeable about cars. Unless of course it's a secondary car... but definitely not as your primary daily driver. The car is simply too old. Even a 10k mile survivor garage queen is going to have issues come up.

    I would stick with the Mazda...

    Either that, or you can get a good used late 90s Porsche Boxster... they're dirt cheap. I see them going all day for like $5,000 with less than 70k miles on them.
  • cogitojazzcogitojazz Posts: 13
    THANKS! Good advvice. Whatever I buy has to sit outside all day and winters [as well as summers] are not easy on cars. here. I'll check the Boxter as well.
  • lemmerlemmer Posts: 2,676
    Where are you seeing Boxsters that cheap? Unless they have over 100K miles, I rarely see one for less than $10,000.
  • cogitojazzcogitojazz Posts: 13
    edited July 2010
    Hi, Everyone. I posted a few days ago about an 88 944 I was considering and got great advice from several folks on this list. The sales manager at the dealership and I have been in regular Email contact - I received this from him this evening, an HONEST assessment of what's wrong with the car BEFORE I bought it:

    "Hi again Michael. I just received the information from my Service Department. Here are the details.

    Turn signal does not cancel
    Power Steering has a small leak
    Both lower ball joints are loose
    Sway bar bushing is loose
    Drivers side window washer nozzle does not
    operate
    Rear wiper does not operate"

    AMAZING, they told me the truth. I'm not buying the car as I can't get all of this work done here, but this dude made a friend: White Automotive Group in Dayton.
    Thanks again. Maybe someday a Porsche for me. . . .
  • lemmerlemmer Posts: 2,676
    That is actually a pretty short list for a 944.
  • I just bought a 1984 porsche 944 from a used car lot. The car drove good for a week and then bam. I was pulling out of the drive way and started down the road, I made it through 2nd gear and pushed the clutch in to go into 3rd and the car back fired twice and shut off. I have not been able to crank it since then. It is getting fire to the wires and I looked through the peep hole and the timing belt is on still. How do i check the car further to get her running again.
  • maccomacco Posts: 5
    My cabin fan stops working every now and then. No speeds work, so don't think it is the resistor problem. Seems more like a short or loose wire. Seems to occur on hot days after driving the car and the engine compartment gets hot, too. I have had it happen only once that I can remember in the winter or cooler months. Sometimes going over a bump will cause it to come on slightly, then go off again. Leave the car in the garage over night and the fan works fine in the AM. I'm so far stumped. Any ideas of where to look for the problem. I called my old mechanic (we moved from OH to NC). He told me the blower motor might have an open short. I asked if there was a way to test the motor and he said, "No. You'll have to wait until it fails." Living in NC in 100 degree heat with out a/c is not an option. Can anyone help?
  • Hi- I have a 1986 with 59K miles. I recently had the clutch slave replaced. Car ran just fine for about 5 days. Then last nite while stopped at a light idling in neutral, when the lite turned green... put it into 1st and the car would not move. it was like I was still in neutral. That was the same for any gear....

    Thanks
  • Well, considering that you JUST had the clutch-slave cyl replaced, I would suspect that as possibly being the culprit. What is the fluid level like in the reservoir?

    The clutch has a spring on the pedal for immediate return, so pedal feel wouldn't be too noticeable. Can you tell however if there feels like you're not really pushing anything? Most of the effort would be from the clutch master cyl though, so it might feel the same.

    Check for any leaks near the slave cyl.. I would suspect this is likely the case.
  • Thank-you very much for your reply. You are correct it is hard to tell if any different. Although there might have been a slight differnt feel. I had the car towed to my mechanic, who currently is out of town on personal business. I may take a ride there to check the fluid level. The level should be low whenchecking the master cylinder, correct?

    Thanks
  • Hi-additional info... you can shift into the ngears but when you let the clutch out it is like you are still in neutral...

    Thanks

    Dan
  • bontonbonton Posts: 2
    My son bought a 1984 Porsche 944 in December and about March a spring snapped off under his clutch pedal. We thought it was the clutch needing replaced but just found out from mechanic it is the slave cyl and the master cyl that are the culprits. He said its about $800 cheaper for the parts. Does anyone know about how much labor time is normally involved in these repairs?
  • Hello, I have been searching all over internet and this thread seems to be exactly what the problem I am having with my 85 944 and would be blessed if you could tell me what fixed your issue? I have put a brand new clutch system in car 2 years ago and now am having exact same issue as your thread describes? Thanks in advance for your response all is appreciated...
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 976
    Hi, 85944dh,

    Looks like you're replying to a post that's 5 years old and the member may not be here to read it. Can you talk a little more about the problems you're having? One of the members here may have some ideas for you.

    If it's a quick question, you might want to ask in our Answers section, where some of our members hang out to answer quick questions:
    http://answers.edmunds.com
    After you post your question, you can check for responses by clicking the "my answers profile" link near the top of the page.

    ClaireS, Host
    Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles

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