Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Ford Ranger Starting Problems

123468

Comments

  • blue95blue95 Member Posts: 10
    My '94 2.3 liter 5 speed manual Ranger is starting to do the same thing i've read in several posts here. For 15 years I would turn the ignition switch and BOOM it was running. Now, in the past few weeks there have been a couple of times i had to grind on it for 5 seconds to get it to start. Today, after driving up to the store, I came back out and it wouldn't start at all. The engine is turning over fine, i have a healthy battery but it's like it has no spark. after about 20 minutes I tried again and it immediately started. Just before it started i had removed and re inserted the fuses and relays in the fuse box. Maybe a dirty connection on one of he relays but thanks to the info i read here i think I'll start by replacing the fuse box relays.
    One other thing. about two months ago i tried to start it and i would just hear the starter solinoid go clunk. I finally got someone to push me and it started right up. Haven't had that problem again....Yet. Side note: Both times it wouldn't start was in the same grocery store parking lot almost in the same parking space! HHmmmmmmm...ain't gonna park there no more!
  • drewrangerdrewranger Member Posts: 2
    edited August 2011
    I have the same exact truck and recently have had the same problem. Its crazy, its like it has a life of its own. It decides to start when it wants. I took it into the shop about a month ago but the mechanic couldn't figure out the problem...Two days ago i unsuccessfully spent an hour trying to get it to start. I let it sit for a half hour, came back and it still wouldn't start. Then I unplugged the battery to reset the sensors, let it sit, but it still wouldn't start! So I had it towed to a mechanic shop. When we took it off the tow truck I tried to start it for ***** and giggles, and of course it fired right up. cost me $100 to get it towed.. Anyways, its sitting at the shop right now and the mechanics are clueless. Did replacing the fuse box relays help you in the long run? Does you truck always start now? does this starting problem happen more often when you are low on gas? Could it be the fuel pump? sorry for all the questions. I'm trying to point my mechanic in some kind of direction. Your input would be much appreciated.
  • blue95blue95 Member Posts: 10
    edited April 2011
    I figured a good place to start was to replace the relay packs. Relays are mechanical devices and after 15 years of service it's logical that they may be failing. I found a place on line where you can buy them for only$2.25. I replaced all three of mine for under $14 shipped. Haven't had any problems since but it was an intermittent problem and i don't know for a fact that it's fixed. Time will tell.
    I'll look up the website and part # and post it later.
  • blue95blue95 Member Posts: 10
    The website is www.AllElectronics.com. Their part number is RLY-455. These are Ford Manufacture OEM relays.
  • innerbeyondinnerbeyond Member Posts: 7
    i replaced by relays all three of them and havent had a problem in many months now whereas before i was dealing with it once a week. autozone only had the fuel relay so i sued three fuel relays to replace the three relays and it worked fine, im sorry to see so many still struggling with this problem when its a simple ten dollar fix. mine is a 94 ford ranger.
  • jdeadboltjdeadbolt Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1991 2.9 l 4wd manual ford ranger that i bought couple of months ago to save the miles on my diesel truck. Last week i couldn't get it to start so i replaced the battery and had the alternator rebuilt. I drove it to work last nite with no problems whatsoever, today i went out to start it up to head back to work and it turned over but then wouldn't stop trying to start even with the motor running, it was making some god awful noises. I turned the key off and it still wouldn't stop, (even when i took the key out) the only way i could get it to stop was to disconnect the battery(nice spark show). Every time i touch the cable back to the battery it does the same thing immediately. Any one have any ideas what is causing this, Starter? Ignition switch? Take it to the junk yard lol?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I think the first thing the positive battery cable goes to is a starter relay. A black box. I would think this might be stuck in the start position.
  • blue95blue95 Member Posts: 10
    edited April 2011
    Sounds like your starter solinoid is stuck closed. There's a set of contactors inside the soliniod that slam closed and connect the battery to the starter when your ignition switch is in the start position. Sometimes when they get old the contacts get so pitted that they can stick together. If you have an ohm meter you can test it by removing the battery cable from the solinoid terminal, then put your meter acrossed the battery in and out connections on the solinoid. It should be open (infinite). If it's closed( 0 or very low ohms), replace it. The starter solinoid is inexpensive and easy to replace, you can do it. It's the round black part located on the driver side fender well right next to the fuse box.
  • jdeadboltjdeadbolt Member Posts: 3
    ok that i will do, i found the selenoid this morning when i was fiddling with it before work, it is located in front of the fuse box, but on the passenger side fender. I do have an ohm meter, so just to make sure i'm doing this rite, i want to disconnect the possitive cable running from the battery to the seloid terminal. Then place the ohm meter on the two posts on the selenoid? Does it matter if the key is on or anything? That is the nice thing about older trucks is that they are a heck of a lot easier to work on, compared to my new diesel that its like doing brain surgery on. Im going to plan on doing this in the morning as long as i don't have to work, gotta love 30 hours of overtime a week..
  • jdeadboltjdeadbolt Member Posts: 3
    On second thought, is that the actual selenoid or is that just a relay? Shouldn't the selenoid be mounted right on top of the starter?? Going to dig into it and find the starter as well, as long as i've get it opened up mite as well have the starter checked and take it in and have it rebuilt if needed.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Fords don't have solonids on top of the starters. That 'relay' is the solonid.
  • consolegoddessconsolegoddess Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1988 Ranger V6 Manual I bought new with 170K miles now and it just developed this not starting thing when the weather is warm last summer. All winter it started right up. Only when the weather is warm. It cranks but won't turn over. If I touch the gas at the right time it starts and runs fine. Logic tells me something is expanding when it's warm causing the problem. Does that make any sense to you car guys? I remember a bunch of years ago had trouble starting and someone mentioned changing the inertia switch and it fixed the problem. It's been too many years to recall if it was the same problem. I have a Chilton guide for '83-91 models that I can copy pages for anyone if it helps figure out the problem. I'll be watching this for information simple enough us amateurs can fix it. :confuse:
  • drewrangerdrewranger Member Posts: 2
    Hey, I just wanted to thank you for your help. I changed the relays and she starts up every time now!
  • schoonover2009schoonover2009 Member Posts: 1
    edited May 2011
    about 6 months ago my truck died and it wont start unless i put it on a battery charger for a little while and then it will start and hold a charge. if i leave both battery cables on over night the truck drains and i cant start it again. i have replaced the starter solinoid, battery and the alternator. the motor, starter and the ignition all work fine, im thinking that theres a short somewhere but i dont know how to find it. i know that when i get it started if i turn the radio on that my volts drop way down and also my tail light acts up sometimes, but i dont know what to do?? any ideas?
  • davidsheetsdavidsheets Member Posts: 2
    Ford Ranger XLT, Standard Cab, 2-wheel drive
    Year: 1991
    Engine: 3.0L, EFI
    Manual transmission

    The engine cranks good, but does not start. There is no fire at all.

    Back story:
    I had a bad alternator, which I changed a week ago or so. After replacing the alternator, everything was back to normal...engine started and ran as it always had...a little rough.

    So, I decided to change the distributor cap, rotor, plug wires, plugs, and coil, since they are all so cheap. After changing everything, it started and ran exactly the same as before changing everything. FYI, the old plugs on the passenger side had the electrodes missing, lol. I replaced the wires to match the exact order of the old cap.

    Anyway, after looking at the manual, I noticed the wiring of the plugs was incorrect on the passenger side, so I fixed that, and tried to restart, but the engine would not fire. It would crank fine, but no fire.

    Okay, so that is how I got where I am now.

    Symptoms:
    1. Engine cranks, but will not start. No engine fire whatsoever.
    2. I can smell a small amount of fuel odor as I continue to crank it. This makes me think the fuel system is working, and I'm just getting a build up of unburnt fuel in the engine.

    Fuel pump: I can hear the pump start like normal. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge, but I did press down on the Schroeder valve with the key on, and fuel sprayed out. I may run down and get a gauge later to test it.

    Spark: I tried grounding the plugs on the driver side and saw spark while cranking. I can't really tell if the spark is strong enough to ignite the fuel, but it doesn't seem like it would take much.

    I have spark and fuel, so why won't 't it start?
    I tried squirting a little fuel into the intake while cranking, and still no engine fire.
    __________________
    1991 Ford Ranger XLT
    3.0 engine
    manual transmission
    2-wheel drive
    standard cab
  • davidsheetsdavidsheets Member Posts: 2
  • jaystarkjaystark Member Posts: 1
    I have the same truck as you do and i'm having the same problem as you are but I had to put a clutch in first ans found out that was not the troble so I put in a slave cylinder and then I had to put in a tranny 3 time's and that fixed that problem so I could drive the truck. So I got the truck running but it rain real bad like it had a vacuum leak. but a couple of plug wiers fell off when we took the dis cap off so we put them back on and then check the firing order and every thing was ok.did you every find out what was wrong? and if you did would PLEASE let me know what the problem was and how you fixed it.
  • bessie5bessie5 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Mazda B4000 that just developed problems starting when the engine is warm. It starts up beautifully first thing in the morning, but once it's warmed up, I'm doomed if I turn it off. Makes it hard to get gas and groceries. It can be kick started, but not jumped. It seems that the starter relay is a little loose in the power distribution box when this has happened. The safety switch under the clutch seems to be working, or at least I can hear it operate when I push on it. I'll get some new relays, but any other suggestions welcome.
  • jayhonjayhon Member Posts: 1
    unhook the battery, and hook it back up..my truck has done it a couple times just needs to be reset, im assuming i have a short somewhere which could also be your problem
  • feelmymetalfeelmymetal Member Posts: 1
    on the drivers side witch is witch? on the relays?
  • rosesarebeautyrosesarebeauty Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have a 1997 Ford Ranger 2.3- 4 cylinder and it keeps breaking the starter, either the bendix or nose cone of the starter. It has only started doing this after the timing belt went out. I have had the belt fixed, it is in time, new fly wheel, and multiple starters put on it. It has a real hard start. It shakes the whole engine trying to start. It keeps back like it is out of time. Any ideas? I can only keep a starter on it for a few months at a time. Runs well enough once you get it started though.
  • irky2irky2 Member Posts: 1
    Oh yes, I recall the time when I had the same problem with my 67 GMC 1/2 ton. I would inspect your flex plate, and consider changing it.
  • hughes03hughes03 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Ford Ranger with a 2.5L 2wd manual. It will start after sitting over night. Then I will drive for awhile thne it will act like it is not getting any fuel to it. It has over half a tank i dont know if it has a bad relay or a bad fuel pump. i dont know how to tell either way when it quit the last time i put a fuel pressure gauge on it and it read nothing. lead me to beilieve that it could be a fuel pump i was reading online and the relay crossed my mind. Someone please help me what this could be. Thank you
  • texas_rangertexas_ranger Member Posts: 1
    My Ranger would not start last Sunday. No click, lights full on, battery good. Experts stated it was battery. Replaced solinoid. No ignition from ignition switch until we bridged solinoid. With screwdriver bridging solinoid, engine started, no problem.

    Experts now tell me only way to work around the problem is to run a switch directly to the solinoid switch and drill hole in engine bulkhead, then bridge solinoid via switch.

    Any suggestions on a real fix rather than a jury rigged fix? Experts tell me the fix would be very expensive.
  • rstaglrstagl Member Posts: 1
    03 Ranger same problem. can go weeks without problems. Noticed when driven and engine hot, short turn off, will not start. tries to and very irradically and at best will sputter then stall. Wait 20-30 minutes and will start right up, runs fine.

    I'm looking for suggestions as well
    Thanks
  • innerbeyondinnerbeyond Member Posts: 7
    i just went thru this on my 94 ford ranger, replaced the selinoid under the hood and it didnt change anything, it was the solinoid on the starter itself. there are two on a ford ranger.
  • tnvolstnvols Member Posts: 1
    edited August 2011
    Hello. I have a 1994 Mazda B4000 that I have had for a year and a half. It has been giving me some problems with starting, but its on and off. Over the past week I have had it at 2 different shops. As you would imagine its started every time with both shops and the diagnostic showed no codes. No one has a clue whats going on. however, it does seem to only happen during the summer. I had to have it towed from work the other day. I did unplug and replug the fuel pump relay, but put it back in the same spot. Sounds like I've got the same symptoms you did. I might go ahead and buy new relays. But if it happens again I'll try swapping the relays. Thanks.
  • marprtsmarprts Member Posts: 1
    A few things came to mind when I read your complaint. When your timing belt went out did they say you did more damage? On many engines when the timing belt or chain breaks The pistons usually slam right into the valves. That's since they are out of sequence now from the broken timing belt. There are a few things they should check. 1st check the compression in all of the cylinders. While you or the mechanic are doing that. Inspect all spark plugs. With all spark plugs removed try to rotate the engine over by hand. When you do this make sure that the battery is disconnected for safety. Rotate it iver 3 to 5 times. Just to get a good feeling what when and why the engine is vibrating. I would think that either a valve got bent and or a connecting rod. Something of this nature. These are all educated thoughts that may cause this. If something is bent that could even cause the starter to fail. When it hits that part that is diffcult for the starter to rotate past this. Then the sudden starter resistance while it's rotating the engine. Might cause the teeth of the starter suddenly stop and cause some sort of damage. I hope this helps you out.
  • mitch63mitch63 Member Posts: 1
    ok what you have already replaced both the starter and solenoid there is a heavy click but it wont even try to start
  • kewlkarrs06kewlkarrs06 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 94 ford ranger that when u turn the key to start it it clicks once but then does not even try to turn over i tried jumping the selinoid it will try to start 1/100 times but to get it running i have to coast start it and it runs fine any suggestions???
  • innerbeyondinnerbeyond Member Posts: 7
    Sounds like the selinoid on the starter itself. Replace your starter and you should be good to go.
  • rangermustangrangermustang Member Posts: 1
    Texas ranger,

    The problem is your neutral safety start switch. There is a wire loom behind the motor going down to the transmission Check to make sure that it is plugged in and the connection is not dirty Of that does not fix it then check the sensor on the clutch pedal
  • ryan_cryan_c Member Posts: 1
    Vehicle: 1995 Ford Ranger XLT Extended Cab 3.0L Automatic Transmission

    I put the key in the Ignition and turn it all the way to the on position without trying to start it, my dash lights are good and bright. The second I try to start it I get a click and a sound like the starter motor is trying to turn but then the dash lights go really dim and flicker slightly, not all the way off but dimmer and slightly less dim. There is no further response from the starter, however my fuel pump relay chatters under the hood when the key is in the on position. Cycling the key does not produce any other results and the lights stay dim until I disconnect the battery for a few hours and reconnect it. Then it usually starts up normally again, however today it still had the same symptoms after 7 hours, except that the lights were bright before trying to start it again. I also thought I may have heard an arcing sound coming from down further into the engine compartment while the key was on. Resistance measured from negative terminal on the battery to the body of the truck and the engine block both were only in the range of a few ohms. The battery read a solid 12.4v before and after the failure to start, even while the lights are dim. I don't have a way to safely get an amperage reading.

    I haven't been able to find anyone who has experienced this combination of symptoms. I know the battery is good because normally it starts right up with no hesitation and Autozone tested it and they said it is OK too. The alternator is only 2 years old and produces proper voltage when the engine is running.

    I am going to try to trace the starter power wire from the solenoid to the motor tomorrow and see if the insulation is rubbed off or something. Other than that I'm stuck.

    Ryan
  • ssbs2ssbs2 Member Posts: 1
    We have a ranger that has recently been giving us issues starting. There seems to be no rhyme or reason for the trouble, we have had teh starter and battery checked, even too it to a mechanice who couldn't find any problems. basically, every once in a while, the truck just won't start. Acts like a dead battery, you can try several times, never any set number, and it will usually finally start. We were told to try movingit out of gear to make sure it is in park, that doesn't seemt o help at all. Any ideas? Could a bad solenoid on the starter be this sporadic? truck will start fine, every tiem for weeks or months, then just stop...
    Not a mechanic, but want to have an idea of what it might be so we can get it repaired!
    :sick:
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    There may be a starter solnoid on the fender that is bad. Run the positive wire from the battery to a black box - that's it.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Might be the fuel pump relay in the under hood fuse box. Or corrosion where the relay is plugged in.
  • thoracingmxthoracingmx Member Posts: 3
    my 1995 ford ranger was not charging and now it will not start every time you turn the key to on dash light and gauges work as soon as u turn the key to start the sonoild clicks and it trips somthing b/c all the lights and gauges stop and you have to wait 5 or so min and then they get power again i tought started shorted out but replaed and still dose it any ideas kinda lost? thanks for any help.
  • thoracingmxthoracingmx Member Posts: 3
    and if you take the wire going to the starter off it dose not do it, i checked for any broke or warn wires cant find anything
  • rick82721rick82721 Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I have replaced the starter, replaced the starter silonod, and the checked the wires to the starter. It is a 1991 Ford Ranger with a 4.0 engine, 5 speed. Can any one help it only clicks one time when starting and that is what it was doing before the new starter and silonod. The battery is also new. Please help.
  • blue95blue95 Member Posts: 10
    edited December 2011
    rick82721....go back and read posts #252 thru 256. Be sure to read the last paragraph of post 252. It has been four months now since I replaced the three little relay packs and I have had no starting problems since. You'll find the website and part number in the posts mentioned above. I have a 2.3 liter, not sure if you engine has the same set up but if it does its worth a shot. The relays only cost about $12 total shipped to your mailbox.
  • momridermomrider Member Posts: 2
    My husband was driving the ranger and it started acting funny then shut down. Got it home still wont start back up. had battery checked had it replaced, Starter tested fine. The truck doesn't crank, when key is turned to start the truck the dash lights go dim, and the door locks lock (doesn't have auto lock for the doors) We even tried to start it by bypassing the starter still nothing. What could nit be? Any ideas?
  • kewlkarrs06kewlkarrs06 Member Posts: 2
    it could maybe be your alternator not giving it enough power to crank over the started and it would b trying hard which would kill the battery and dim the lights you can also get those tested try putting jumper cables on it to another car and let it charge for a few minutes and then c if it will try to turn over then
  • momridermomrider Member Posts: 2
    Thank we will try that also.
  • jackrangerjackranger Member Posts: 1
    My wonderful 91 Ranger is not starting.
    Have good elec. Battery is new. Replaced the fuel pump relay.
    Still nothing. Can hear the sound of fluid(fuel?) when I try to start it.
    Either a spark problem or a fuel problem.
    Please help.
  • dave401dave401 Member Posts: 1
    My 1991 ford ranger won't start tell me what to do?
  • jain2jain2 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my taurus. In researching the issue, not finding any solutions, I've submitted a complaint on the nhtsa.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    For the two people with starting problems...

    Would be nice is you said what engines you have....
    On my 94 4Liter, a known problem (I never had it.) was sensor on the thermostat housing, or that general area.

    One sensor is the temp gauge sensor, a single wire - doesn't have anything to do with starting.

    Second sensor usually will have a two wire connection which will be a black and a yellow twisted together. This sensor tells the 'computer' if it's a cold or a hot start. And manages the fuel volume thru the injector accordingly. If this fails, it is difficult to start cold. But will start fine if the motor is still warm from previously running.

    If you have a symptom like this, find and replace this sensor.
  • 98rangrsprt98rangrsprt Member Posts: 4
    blue95,
    I have a similar issue starting my 98 Ranger and I thought I would try to replace the three relays you mentioned. The part number mentioned in the 252 post is no longer available/listed at the site and I wondered if you could clarify which 3 relays you were replacing of the 10 or so in the power distribution box - I thought it might be the PCM, Starter and Fuel pump, but the Fuel Pump is a different size.
    Thanks
  • blue95blue95 Member Posts: 10
    98rangrsprt...the part number off the original Ford relay is FOAB 14B192-AA. They look like a black cube about 1"x1"x1". A google search should provide a source. I beleave these are also sold on Ebay.
    Your '98 must be different from my '94. I have only three relays in my power distribution box...along with several fuses. This is the box located under the hood over the drivers side fender well.
    I have not had any starting problems since I replaced these many months ago.
  • 98rangrsprt98rangrsprt Member Posts: 4
    edited January 2012
    blue95,
    Thanks for the response and the good news - I have high hopes this is the solution to my issue. My '98 has slots for 14, but only 10 are populated with a mix of 1x1x1 relays and 1x2x1 relays. Most seem irrelevant to this type of issue so I am going to focus on the PCM, starter and Fuel Pump (which is one of the larger 1x2x1) relays.
Sign In or Register to comment.