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Ford Ranger Starting Problems

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Comments

  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Irrelevant? If the fuel pump relay is bad, your truck will not start.
  • hpyjackhpyjack Member Posts: 1
    Ok let's try this
    1998 Ford Ranger 4 cyl. (8 spark plugs)
    2.4l manual transmission 4-wheel-drive
    to start going up hill i could never gain speed, infact i would loose some. Then going uphill to park lost all power and stalled. (rolled back into a parking spot)
    Wouldn't turn over so we replaced the battery. it will now turn over fine, just won't start.
    Checked the fuel presure at the injector manifold and had almost zero. Replaced the Fuel pump. now it's at 62 PSI..

    It STILL will not start, we tried some starting fluid into the air cleaner and still will not ever try to start.

    We checked spark on the 4 passanger side plugs all good. Took 1 of the coils (it has 2) and replaced it any combo still will not start.

    What next?
  • blue95blue95 Member Posts: 10
    edited January 2012
    The basic requirements for any engine to fire are fuel fed to the cylinders, an ignition spark and compression. It seems you've eleminated fuel and spark as the problem. I would take a compression check of the four cyclinders. If the test results are bad your timing belt may have slipped or broken.
    I was driving home one night and all of sudden the engine just went dead. When I tried to restart it it would turn over fine but it would not fire at all. Turned out the timing belt had broken. This was at 150K miles on my '94 2.3L engine.
  • 98rangrsprt98rangrsprt Member Posts: 4
    Ok. Maybe not the best choice of words in my earlier post. The power distribution box in my ranger has about 10 relays in it, of two different sizes. I just replaced the three large relays for PCM Power relay, Starter relay and the Blower Motor relay. I also replaced the smaller relay to the Fuel Pump. The other relays that I thought were irrelevant to the power/starting issue were relays for wipers, A/C, and horn. At $9 for the small relays, I decided not to replace the 5 remaining ones.

    So, I just installed the 4 relays, reconnected the battery and it started right up. Success! Then I turned it off and restarted it - and it failed again.

    Here's what happens - clearly, power is available in the cab - lights on, radio, fan... start engine and there is a single click and then the power goes out - almost as if a fuse or breaker had tripped. Disconnecting and then reconnecting the battery will sometimes restore the power to the cab.

    I played with it for about 30 minutes, was able to restore the power about 4 times and had it fully start twice. I think the relays were part of the problem, because prior to this, I had tried many times, gotten the click, lost the power but never started the engine again.

    I think I'm going to look into replacing the starter next.
  • nate1994nate1994 Member Posts: 1
    what starting problems did you have when you replaced those relays. Because I have a 94 ranger as well and right now it will only start if the battery is unplugged for a while. if not I only hear a click around the power distribution box until it just does nothing and makes no noise at all, also when it makes no noise the dashboard does not light up. But when it does make that clicking noise it will light up.
  • thoracingmxthoracingmx Member Posts: 3
    mine dose the same this if you unplug the battrey for awhile then hook it up turn the key dash lights come on but as soon as you turn the key the solenoid clicks and everything gose dead i am lost any ideas? 1995 ford ranger 2.3 standered trany
  • blue95blue95 Member Posts: 10
    I copid this link from a google search. Maybe it will be of some help.

    http://www.ehow.com/how_6168507_troubleshoot-ford-ranger-starter.html
  • 98rangrsprt98rangrsprt Member Posts: 4
    edited January 2012
    The weather has been too bad to replace the starter, so I was looking at the relays I had just put in and realized that I had not actually replaced the relay to the fuel pump as I had intended (swapped out a different one instead). After I replaced the relay to the fuel pump with the new relay, the truck started right up. I have been suspicious, since it did that before, but it has been almost a week now and the truck has started up just fine each time.

    I'm still going to replace the starter, but I no longer think it is part of the problem.

    I'm also still a little unclear why the bad relay kills all of the power to the cab and then eventually resets. Almost like the bad relay shorts the entire electrical system and then after some time the relay mechanically resets, restoring power (sometimes).
  • kylejackson74kylejackson74 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same issue happen to me. I did all that you did to no avail. Ended up taking it to my mechanic.....Wiring issue...didn't cost that much at all!
  • stayrunninstayrunnin Member Posts: 1
    Any ideas what it could cranks over but won't start? Iv changed fuel pump, fuel pump wiring,fuel filter,spark plugs and wires still nothing? Could coil packs be the cause behind this madness?
  • sammie71121sammie71121 Member Posts: 4
    We got my 91 ford ranger about a year ago, and for a few months it has on and off had an issue with sputtering and stalling when we first start it. You will hear the engine working very hard and it will shake the truck and then boom, truck turns off. First time it happened it was right after we had the first full tank of gas in a looong time, had been running it until it died from no gas(we are broke), so we replaced the fuel pump hoping we had just clogged it. It didnt happen for awhile after that but then the last month it started happening again.

    Keep in mind, it will do it once, and then we will restart it, and its fine,like it never happened.

    Well, my fiance was driving it to work this morning on the freeway and it did the same thing twice. only difference, it was while he was already driving. It took him awhile, but he got it to start and got it back home.Had to call into work. This is his work truck so we are really worried about fixing this or he doesnt have a job any more.

    No money to get it diagnosed. Any ideas??
  • parks3parks3 Member Posts: 1
    i have replace the starter and flywheel on my 99 ranger 2.5 4 times in the last 3 years each time the starter drive is wore off and the flywheel also please help just replace it again is the after market starter and flywheel the problem?
  • crashrosscrashross Member Posts: 1
    i have the exact same problem with my ranger too.....i have a few guesses ..but i too am basically baffled dude!
  • emtinoklahomaemtinoklahoma Member Posts: 1
    edited August 2012
    I have to pump once, crank, tries to start. Pump, crank, tries to start. After 6 or 7 times, it will start, but run VERY rough. Then after 5 to 10 seconds, it will smooth out. It starts and runs fine after that for the day. Any ideas?? This is a 97 Ranger 3.0 4X2
  • consolegoddessconsolegoddess Member Posts: 2
    I found a possible solution to our problem. Haven't tried it yet. Someone in another forum said that the TFI module on the back of the distributor needs to be taken off and regreased with dielectric grease and put back on.
  • blue95blue95 Member Posts: 10
    Sounds like the fuel system is struggling to build up pressure which might indicate a bad fuel pump. If the problem was a restriction in the fuel line the engine would not smooth out after warm up.
    Question: after warm up when it's running good if you accelerate hard does the engine accelerate normally or does it cough or stutter?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    A possible problem - the thermostat housing has 2 senors screwed into it. One has a black wire, this is the temp sensor for the gauge.

    The other has a double set of wires, usually twisted together, black and yellow. This sensor tell the 'computer' if it is a cold or hot start. If it's a cold start, the amount of gas is increased during starting. If this sensor has failed, it thinks its a hot start and does not give the increased amount of gas for starting, and you get hard starts. When warmed up, the motor does not need the additional gas and starts just fine.

    Replace this sensor.
  • prodrigsrprodrigsr Member Posts: 2
    Try this. I was having the exact same problem and wound up buying the TPS, IAC, and fuel pump plus relays. One day it did not start at all, not even crank. Found a weak connecting negative battery cable. Replaced it and so far it has been working fine. Try it , it won't cost much.
  • indeskiiindeskii Member Posts: 1
    Seems like this is a common problem without a common answer...... Truck starts right up in morning, drive to work (about 25 minutes), turn truck off and it won't start again, (has power just won't turn over). Wait a few hours and it starts. Tried replacing some fuses and it "appeared" to work, but now it is doing it again. Anyone having the same issue please help,
  • johnbpublicjohnbpublic Member Posts: 1
    I found (after removing the bed, spending $230 on a flex fuel pump, and oh! Breaking the clips on the fuel lines) that the inertial switch in the cab had gotten loose. Check where the passenger's feet would go and make sure that switch is plugged in firmly. THEN check everything else.

    But seriously if you don't have a lift and you need to change the fuel pump, just take the bed off. SOOO much easier. Six #55 torx bolts and remove the tail light wiring (be sure to get all the wiring detached!) and you and a friend can lift the bed off.
  • charlesw28charlesw28 Member Posts: 2
    i had a problem similar to this in my 94 ranger 3.0. We replaced the fuel pump and strainer, everything was fine then one day it started idle low and die sometimes not starting until i relived pressure off the tank from turning gas cap. anyway one day it dawned on me to clean the tank and i haven't had an issue since, just be careful cause normal jacks arn't tall enough to lift the backend enough to get the tank out, other thing could also be iac on top throttle body, mainly be cause overtime it gets gunked up and the bypass inside stops working right.
  • charlesw28charlesw28 Member Posts: 2
    had same issue, whenyou try to start it after warm up does it sound normal but like its not getting fuel, if this is the case replace fuel pump and strainer and clean out tank for good measure, most people dont realize if you got tarnish in your gas tank only a matter of time before it gettings in fuel line and works its way to engine and injectors this cause worst problom gumming up injectors and pushing contaminents in to the engine.
  • boosh64boosh64 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Ranger and the problem may be the same as yours and like many in here also. Before trying expensive answers try this one. There's a wire that comes off of the battery, grounding it to the frame. The negative battery cable is 4 gauge and the little wire is maybe 8 to 10 gauge. Sometimes that wire gets corroded. Try unscrewing it from the frame and scuff it on both the washer and frame where they meet with a wire brush, before reconnecting it. If that doesn't work, replace it completely. You can do that at just about any NAPA store. I work for one, and we do all kinds of custom wiring stuff for people. The parts shouldn't cost more than 10 bucks. That seemed to cure my ill for awhile anyway. (knock on wood) :)
  • 1994ranger19921994ranger1992 Member Posts: 1
    Solenoid on the driver side fender under hood take a screw driver bypass it
  • jbrbbt1jbrbbt1 Member Posts: 1
    Been having some issues lately with my Ranger cranking up. For a while I thought it had been the battery so I get it changed but that was not it so I took it to O'Reillys and the technician began putting Sea-Foam in the carborator every few weeks. This seemed to work but wasn't getting rid of the problem. I took it back today for another can of the Sea-Foam and the technician asked me what kind of gas I use. I said I use regular unleaded, he suggested using premium because of the wear and tear I put on the engine for all the travel I do. So I went to the gas station, got premium gas, and made it home which is about 40 miles away with no problem. However when i got in the drive way I turned the truck off for a minute then tried to crank it back up. Now it will not crank, engine seems like it doesn't want to turn over, cant get anything to happen.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Check the battery cables, both of them, for corrision. Might even be inside the insulation, acid will get down in there and eat the copper cable up.
  • bobo41bobo41 Member Posts: 2
    My 96 Ranger, 2.3L automatic will not start if the temp outside is 10 degrees or less. It will crank but not start. The lights, dash lights etc work fine. The battery is new. I've had the fuel pump, fuel filter, plugs and wires and the cold/hot sensor (talked about in other posts - located on top of the engine by the timing belt) changed. My mechanic can't figure it out. I've read some of the other posts here about ECC and fuel relays and MAP etc but I'm not sure this would have anything to do with my problem. Has anyone had or heard about this before?
  • lacrossesoakedlacrossesoaked Member Posts: 87
    Have you tried a block heater or dip stick type heater on those cold nights? Cold weather thickens the oil and makes starting more difficult even if you have a brand new battery. Even a heat lamp under the engine block would probably help.
  • bobo41bobo41 Member Posts: 2
    No I haven't tried that but I will. Thanks
  • mandylnnmandylnn Member Posts: 2
    i have a 94 ranger, at first I thought that it was the alternator, but the gauges are not messing up and the lights don't dim. at times when driving it will lose power and I have to down shift to keep it from dying and hold the gas down and then it comes out of it . when first starting the truck I have to pump the gas, then I have to sit a few mins to let it warm up or if I try to take off right away it will die. while waiting as it idles it will rev up on its own and idle high for about a min and then drop down and its good to go. .... anyone have any ideas on where to start ?? :confuse:
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    That sounds like a fuel pump issue, not an electrical problem. And at almost 20 years old, that's not too bad if it's still the original factory pump.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Host
  • bluerangeredgebluerangeredge Member Posts: 2
  • bluerangeredgebluerangeredge Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 ford ranger edge with the 3.0 6 cylinder with 217,000 miles. Check engine light came on almost 2 years ago with around 140,000 miles. Ford said that it was coming back as lean fuel and that the fuel pump was not pumping to full compacity. I replaced the fuel cap instead of replacing the pump and the check engine light stayed off for about 2 months before coming back on. It has been on ever since. About 6 months ago every once in a while when gas level dropped around 3/8 of a tank or less and it had been being driven for 4 or more hours at a time it would start cutting out and jerking. You could even stop and kill it and let it set for 10 to 15 minutes and it would still cut out and jerk. But if you stopped and put 3 or more gallons of gas in it, it would run fine. It did not do this often, just every now and than. A couple of nights ago while driving it just cut off. So I checked the fuses and relays to the fuel pump and the powertrain control module which were ok. Also checked the spark plug wires and I am getting fire. Could not hear the fuel pump kick in so I put in a new motor craft fuel pump and fuel filter. It still does not start. Listened but cannot hear the new fuel pump kick in when turning on the key. When installing the new pump I checked to make sure that there was voltage in the wires to the pump and there was when key was turned on. Not sure where to go from here. Was wondering if it might be the computer or powertrain control module that might be bad. Has anybody had an issue like this or have any idea what might be wrong?
  • kev_mac007kev_mac007 Member Posts: 1
    hey i need help with my 1995 ford ranger. first i will tell you what happened. i woke up in the morning and tried to start my truck and turned out that my starter was fried. so i bought a new one and put it on.and decided that it would be a good idea to change the solenoid at the same time. mind you the solenoid was working fine before i changed it. now how ever i have no power to any lights or the interior of the truck, unless i jump the solenoid and hold the key in the forward possition. any help would be much appreciated.
  • forddriver3forddriver3 Member Posts: 1
    My 03 ranger won't start after a little driving it turns over sputters runs flat for a few seconds then stops. Has good fuel pressure have it towed to the shop and it will then start for them. Can't afford the $65 towing bill so they can't find the problem the truck only has 19,000 miles!! Forddriver3
  • s1lentechoess1lentechoes Member Posts: 2
  • s1lentechoess1lentechoes Member Posts: 2
    1995 Ford Ranger 4 cylinder 200k+

    Hi all, I am having some start up problems and having trouble narrowing down the cause. It should be noted (please don't just assume this is the problem, I only mention it because it should be noted and kept in mind) this truck has had electrical problems since it came off the lot waaay back when. I have even had to create a switch to the fuse panel for turning off the door ding because it would drain the battery down even while just sitting. Also, I do not drive/get out much, only about once a week and even then only a few miles at a time (I mention this because I did read that this type of driving can be hard on a battery so I thought it worth mentioning).

    It start a month ago when the truck just did not turn over at all, just that clicking sound. Radio and lights all worked fine but nothing else. It ended up turning over and starting a few minutes/tries later and acted fine for about a month. Then it just didn't start at all, same as before but no matter how many tries or how long I waited it did nothing, even jumping it would do nothing. We assumed it was the starter so we took it off and had it tested, it came back fine. We then tested the battery and found out it had a bad cell (or two), so we replaced it and it was fine for about a week or two. Right off the bat, I could tell (only slightly but it was there) that it was having a hard time turning over. Today it had a very hard time turning over and after a quick trip to the gas station it did the exact same thing as before - it would click and the radio, lights, etc.. worked fine but it would not turn over at all, even while trying to jump it.

    Since it was acting exactly like before I naturally assumed the cells had gone bad and that I had gotten a bad battery (would not be the first time for me). We popped the clutch to get it started and it did, so we headed to the store. The battery tests came back good, all systems worked perfectly even under a load test. We put the battery back in but noticed part of the ground/negative cable was a bit loose and tightened it up (again, I just thought this was worth mentioning but I cannot say definitively that this was the problem). Well, it ended up starting though it did have a hard time turning over again. We took a couple of quick trips (2-3) here and there, turning the truck off and sitting for a while then starting it back up again. It continued to work fine, no turning over problems after that initial start up.

    It just seems to be very erratic about how it acts which is why I wanted to post here and get some advice/help. It doesn't seem to be the alternator because again the battery tests came back clean and it would definitely have been dead by now given the amount of use and time since I replaced the battery. We are inclined to think that it might be bad cables and that is the next troubleshoot as soon as we can get around to it (I will post afterwards but it might take time to truly see if that was the problem or not). The starter tested fined a couple of weeks ago when had the last problem, although I guess that does not rule it out 100%. Maybe the solenoid as well?

    What is everyone's opinions? Many thanks in advance for any help!
  • crashinturn5crashinturn5 Member Posts: 2
    i am having an issue with my 2000 ranger with 126k miles on it. i was driving home than all of a sudden i lost my rpm's, mph, and battery gauges. radio went out lights went out and the truck shut off. i thought it was the alternator BUT it did not kill my battery i waited about 20 minutes and the truck started right up drove it about 2 miles and it did the same thing, it seems to die completely after a couple miles but she starts back up, Weird?. any help would be greatly appreciated thank you.
  • crashinturn5crashinturn5 Member Posts: 2
    i check all battery cables n cleaned the terminals on the battery,
  • mandylnnmandylnn Member Posts: 2
    just saw your reply .. I did end up replacing the fuel pump because one morning when leaving for work the truck would not start at all. I had my dad come over to look at it and he told me that the fuel pump wasnt kicking on. so I got a new fuel pump and still no luck and tested the one that we took out. put a battery charger to and it kicked on .. idk what wire he took and grounded it to the frame of the truck but it worked and the truck starts now but that still didn't solve the problem because it still has issues with starting because there isn't a connection being made somewhere :(
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Could very well be another loose ground wire somewhere. Check the battery ground and any others you can find to make sure they're tight and not corroded.

    KCRam - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Host
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Fuel pump problems can be caused by a bad fuel pump relay. The relay is in the box under the hood. Many times there are identical ones in there and you can switch another into the fuel pump slot and see if this starts the car. These relays can also get corrosion on the plug in contacts and cause problems.
  • rigs1rigs1 Member Posts: 1
    edited October 2013
    97 ranger V6 4.0 4X4 Ive been the only wonder of the truck and never had major problems just wear and tear. One day the truck did not start. So I decided to let the truck sit and try the next day. The truck started right up. Drove to work, came home from work, parked the truck,and a couple of hours later all I got was 1 click. I was told it was the starter. To bang on the stater and if it starts, The problems is the starter. The truck did not start. I tried the next day to start the truck and again 1 click. I was told it could be the ignition slyonyde which is located in the left side fender next to battery. I Replaced the slynoyde & starter and still nothing.I was then told to replace the positive battery cable & purchase a new battery. Still nothing. Now, I've decided to back track my purchases.started taking off what I purchased to make sure I installed everything correctly. In the process I dropped the starter breaking it where it bolts onto the truck.off I go to purchase a new starter. As I show them the starter that I purchased they're asking me "information about the truck" to help get a new starter. That's when he realized I was given a starter for my truck but that it was intened for a stick shift/ manual truck. My truck is an automatic totally DIFFERENT starters. This would be my first time installing a starter I did realize there would be a difference in automatic and manual. Purchased the CORRECT starter. Took 10 minutes to install and truck fired right up.So, back track & double check your work and MAKE SURE YOURE GETTING ALL THE RIGHT PARTS AND I HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE. ALOHA.
  • cacher1cacher1 Member Posts: 2

    First of all-thanks fro a great forum. There's a TON of good information here.

    Second I have a 1994 Ranger 2.3L (223,000 miles) thats finally dead I think, LOL. Ihave done alot of work on it, and succeeded, so if anyone here has questions about one, let me know if I can help.

    My issue now is that it will start, and run great, but every once in awhile miss very hard, and quick, then continue on driving. I also see at times that the engine light will come on, and stay on while the truck idles very low, but I can still drive it. I can turn it off, restart it, and it will run ok again until it gets warmed up, and then it does the hard missing issue again. I can drive at 40moh, watch the tach, then it will miss-and the tach drops to zero-then it goes right back to 40mph again It will do this once ine awhile, or it will do this a couple times as I drive. I am thinking its the head gasket maybe? Anybody have any ideas? Thanks.

  • mbulombulo Member Posts: 1
    my ford ranger non turbo wl wont start by starter motor it just crunks like there is no fuel but when pushing it starts easy what could be the problem
  • firecracker2firecracker2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 mazda b 3000 with a 3.0 in it I am racking my brain new battery great spark great fuel pressure and 108 psi on cylinder pressure now when it gets below 32 degreese it will try to start but just dies out but when the temp outside is above 32 it runs like a brand new truck HELP
  • bigcrazymike1bigcrazymike1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1992 Ranger two wheel drive 2.3lit 4 cyl 5spd stick. When its warm outside it'll start after a few times, but when its cold, it'll turn over a zillion times until the battery dies. I'd place it on charge and after a few more cranks it'll finally start.

    After it starts it runs fine, lots of power, idles good, etc. However if I go somewhere and it sits for more than 3 hrs (I carry a jump box and a spare battery), I go through the same BS. I checked the MAF & the TBS sensors and they're fine. Fuel pump is fine also. In fact, at one time I figured it was a fuel problem, however, after squirting in some starting fluid and it still won't start?

    I've been a mechanic for over 45 years and this vehicle (along with my girl friend"s 2000 KIA) has me baffled.

    I think it may be in the main fuse / relay box under the hood. One day as I was farting around with it (key off) I bumped into the box and heard the fuel pump kick in. Now I may not be the sharpest tool in the shed, but I do believe the pump shouldn't kick in unless the key is on.

    I believe I'm gonna finish building my 1972 VW Karmann Chia and my 1976 Chevy van and toss any computerized vehicle in the scrap heap. Maybe even finish my 1981 HD project while I'm at it

    When I parked my van, it had 850,000 miles on the original drive train. Didn't quite make it to a million miles.

    The Chia got around 30mpg hwy and the van (the work horse) got around 12. I never had any major problem's with either.

    Oh well.

    Shal ' aam Aleichem
    AAPiY
    Mike
  • harleystooharleystoo Member Posts: 1
    edited November 2015
    Fixed it! 1991 Six Cylinder 3.0L was not starting well all the times. Sometimes just fine starting and others very complicated and running with two or three cylinders first. Once it got going, no problem at all. Also hill start was much easier than cranking it to get going. So problem was a intake leak. One of the clamps holding the black rubber connecting tube between airfilter and injector body was loose. If you have similar problems check your intake for leaks. Easy and inexpensive fix for a frustrating problem.
  • zachs84zachs84 Member Posts: 1
    This thread has been quite useful. I have a pretty confusing situation. My 94 Ranger turns over but won't start. I've replaced the relay, fuel pump, the fuel filter, and I've checked the inertia switch under the dash (which doesn't look like it's been tripped), and my truck still won't start. I also checked for a spark from the spark plug line and I do get spark. So I'm looking for suggestions on what else I can try. I know it's not spark or electrical issue. It has to be some sort of issue with the truck not getting fuel, but I'm not sure what else to do. Can an inertia switch go bad? I have a hard time believing that's what it is though. Any suggestions is much appreciated.

    Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You might squirt some starting fluid into the intake and see if the engine fires up briefly (don't use excessive amounts of starting fluid--a few squirts should do it). If it fires up, then I'd check for the presence of fuel in the fuel rail---either using a fuel pressure gauge or (VERY carefully) pinching the schrader valve in the fuel rail (have a rag handy to catch any fuel).

    If the engine started with starting fluid and if you have fuel in the fuel rail and if you indeed have a spark, then it's probable your injectors are not getting a pulse to open. You can check the injector pulse with a simple NOID light, which is not an expensive tool, and available at all auto parts stores. If you have no injector pulse, then you are back to an electrical problem with some sensor failing or a wiring problem.
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