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Comments
and gets about 31-34 mpg on hwy. I usually keep my tires at 32 psi as my door panel says 30 psi, is that bad for my tires. How can I get more mpg out of my car? Did change the spark plugs 3 weeks ago, and actually gave my car 1 mpg more when I start the engine.
By the way I see it, you should the one giving some advice instead of asking for some. I could add that a clean and well waxed car helps the m/p/g to.
For your tire pressure, 32 p.s. i. isn't that bad but the ride must be a bit bumpy?
Like you already know you should check your tire pressure when tires are cold or when you didn't move your car for a couple of hour.
If you do lots of highway driving your p.s.i. will increase by itself by a couple of ponds, faster in summer or hot pavement.
If you want my advice let them at 30 p.s.i. an over inflated tire is as bad as a under inflated one. Eventually you will see that your tires will get worned-out prematurally.
The only filter that needs to be changed is the oil filter. The air filter and cabin air filter get changed at longer intervals.
Anyways, having you car in line (aliments) will make a big difference on your gas mileage and tires also.
What are the PSI recommendations listed on the doorframe?
I prefer 34 psi for my vehicles, and 34 is within the range specified on the doorframe for max-speed or max-load operation.
As for the tires, the door jam says 30, my dealer and Discount Tire always puts them on 35 but I prefer to keep them on 32.
I also own a 2005 Equinox this one is 35 p.s.i. and for my show car... a 1977 Chevelle Malibu Classic the door frame p.s.i. requirements are at 24 p.s.i.
If I take your example of 32 p.s.i. well for my Equinox it would by "under inflated" but for my Chevelle it would be well "overinfalted".
Don't go by what's written on the tire (like most people do) that's the max-speed and max-load operation of the tire. Always go by the car's door frame recommendations.
By the way...you didn't mention what type of car you drive.
My uncle is a mechanic, for his cars he always put 32 psi in all his tires and even with my cars. He never had problems with 32. Today, I set all my tires at 30 psi, according to the doorframe and see how well that goes for gas mileage and tires for a week or two. Also, some tire shops, have hydrogen tires which they said will also increase gas improvements and last longer than original tires.
Also, I drive a 2006 Chevy Colbalt LS (4-doors sedan) now with 51,303 miles. I will take my car in for an oil change on tuesday and going on a long trip on wednesday VB,VA to Pittsburgh, PA (450 miles or 8 hrs) and will calculate m/g/mph to accurate mpg. I'll post results.
The same tires are used on different vehicles, and the max pressure indicated on the tire itself is not indicative of where the pressure should be run on a particular vehicle; it just means that that pressure should not be exceeded.
The optimum air pressure is very much related to the vehicle weight. For lighter vehicles, less air pressure is needed, and for heavier vehicles, higher air pressure is needed.
What you are looking for is a good "footprint." You want the tread all the way across the tire to be in contact with the road. Over-inflation makes only the tread in the middle of the tire make contact with the road and will cause the tread to wear more in the middle. Low air pressure will make the inside and outside tread make more contact with the road, and the edges will wear out faster.
Some people actually rub chalk across the tread, drive a few feet, and then check the footprint the chalk made. Not too many people go to that much trouble. Just stick with the manufacturer's recommendation, and you should be OK.
Tom
If we didn't, why would the company waste time and money on something that we won't bother with. Most people who cares about their vehicles would love to get most out of their money. Everyone should do the same, especially when the economy is bad and will only get worst.
Of course, some people don't care that much about their vehicle and would rather buy tires if they absolutely have to. (to pass state inspections) Why would spend extra money for lazyness. Never really give enough thought about it, until now. Thanks Tom.
I like it when street cars wear the tires perfectly flat like my 5 3rd, 4th gen f-body/Z28 cars always did.
currently I drive an 06 VW jetta, and an 05 Pontiac GTO, both manual shift.
The VW wears the tires nice & flat. GTO not so.
Anyway, I really like the blue cobalts and would consider one at some point (with manual shifter of course).
i'd bet that cobalts wear the tires nice & evenly, if you select the right PSI and
only participate in drifting exhibitions every *other* weekend.
When I drove back to Virginia Beach, VA at 65 mph, it took 8 hours and 13 mins. (443 miles) My car calculated 35.3 mpg, and never had to stop for fuel. Drive straight thru. At tire(s) pressure set at 30psi according to the doorframe. I can't complain. Intending on moving back up there before June 2009, it was great.
How are the rest of you doing with the Cobalt??????
Thanks
Gigi
This little car amazes me.
So no, had you measured distance/gallons, you would have come up with a substantially lower number. Maybe 39 mpg at most, I'd guess.
But any given mpg-meter tends to be accurate for measuring *relative* mpg differences within that one vehicle.
So when you saw indicated mpg drop from 58 mpg to 54 mpg, you can be pretty sure that the instantaneous fuel consumption had indeed dropped by ((4/58)*100) %.
Once you establish the "overestimate" that the dashboard-mpg-meter provides, you can subtract a fixed percentage from whatever it tells you.
For example, my VW TDI mpg dashboard-computer reads consistently about 10% above the actual mpg, typically reporting 50 mpg over an entire tank that actually yielded 45 mpg.
Guess, no mpg is accurate on cobalts sensor systems. My manager from work, told me and old fashion trick to know for sure exactly what your car mpg aveage. He told me, just to first, fill up your tank, reset your trip A and Trip B miles. Then, keep track of all your miles, and when it's time to fill up. Check your miles and divide that from how many gallons your car holds. He said, that will be your most accurate. Of course, it all depends on how fast you drive, tires psi set at, and other misc... I haven't tried it yet but, this coming week on Tuesday thru Sunday, I will. Next week, I'm driving back up to PA on a 443.5 miles trip (about 8 hrs.)
Is there any other tricks to use?
The changeover to winter fuels may have dropped the BTUs in the fuel. Lower mileage than the summer blends.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
you could use a super-precision scale to weigh the car, drive a certain distance, then
measure its exact weight again.
no stopping for burgers or a caf-pow or shopping or hitchikers or rest-areas.
the change in weight divided by 9 lbs would be the # of gallons used. then divide
that into the distance in miles and you have mpg.
I'll keep updating now and then, so be patience. Sure feels great to be back home officially. See ya later...
I bought a used Cobalt 07 with 23000 miles last Friday. I got the oil changed on Monday, and the air filter replaced as well.
It is giving me 24 mpg in the city of Houston, which involves many miles of slow traffic and also a few miles of freeway.,
I don;t understand what I would have to do to get the mileage to a similiar value as you guys are getting, close to 30.
??
Any ideas?
24 mpg is the computer readout.
I hope you have some good suggestions.
If you only drive short trips that have a lot of stop and go traffic, then 24 MPG is probably pretty good. The only way to really improve is to be light on the gas and better predict the traffic ahead of you so you don't have to use the brakes too much. Accelerating from 0 or very low speeds is what really kills the fuel economy. Try to keep a constant speed. I find that I get the best MPG between 50 to 60 MPH. 65 is not too bad, but not optimal.
My auto equipped 08 is rated 22 City and 32 Hwy so I'm getting exactly what's advertised.
In jest here, move farther away so you have more freeway type traffic. On that free way gently drive 55-60. Faster speeds mean more air resistance and turbulance around the shape of the car. Also when traffic slows keep your speed up above what must be 40 or a little over so the transmission is in 4th gear (the tach drops another notch); it seems in 3rd at slower speeds the economy just isn't there.
This is based on my experience driving around the area in the Cobalt 2.2 with automatic we bought for our son. At 55 or below on a level road the average hits 40. Add an occasional stop or turn and the average is 35-36. Once the car is warmed up just reset the mileage gauge and see what you're getting in various parts of your drive. The stop and go is probably 20 unless you're gently accelerating and trying not to have to stop.
Another factor might be the gasoline if it has a higher percentage of alcohol.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I'm in Northern California with temperature 50 - 70 all year.
For a sporty car, it rides very well and is quiet, with underhood sound insulation and 1" thick foam engine cover. I can't even hear the engine. Tires are Yokohama AVID TRZ, kept at 33 PSI.
I'll try to find out the accuracy on the onboard MPG computer and send you any info. I get, if you send me your email address.
My 2LT is the high-end, with seat height and lumbar adjustments, and Daytime Running Lights. The electric steering is superbly tight, with good weighting. This car has been marvelously designed and assembled. The door hold-open even has 3 positions,
instead of two.
I'm 73 and have been a car enthusiast all my life and have been studying the Consumer Reports for 30 years. They are usually accurate with reliability and comments, but their comments about the Cobalt are for a different car, not the 2LT!
I customized this car with red seat covers and painted a lot of the inside red, and painted wheel covers black. I painted the keyholes red too. I don't know how to include images in this reply. If you'd like to correspond more and see photos, send me a reply and I'll try to send them to you."> God bless America and vehicles with American marques and MADE IN USA (Lordstown, OH). Ted
order a load-resistor for each one because the LEDs draw much less current than the filament bulbs. If you don't use the load-resistors, they will flash very fast, called hyper-flashing. BUT, the load-resistor has to be wired across the LED, and it generates heat, so you have to mount it on a flat surface with two screws. One of the ones I got broke at the wire-to-resistor solder joint because there was not strain relief. I returned them because I did not have a flat spot to mount the heat-generating resistors.
btw, measure distance-driven/gallons to see the real mpg and compare with dashboard mpg-meter... i bet you'll find the dashboard usually off by the same percentage and reading a tad high in your case.
I always liked cobalt styling! almost bought one but waited for cruze. :}
let's just say/suppose it's for mpg reasons: i figure the weight of the wax costs more mpg than the smoothness/airflow at such low speed.
but seriously folks, the clearcoat under the wax is just as smooth as a layer of wax on top of it, isn't it ?
for aircraft the weight of the paint really matters - iirc, some aeronautical painter discovered a way to use thinner layers of paint... added up to hundreds of pounds per aircraft... less weight, saves the airlines BIG $ on fuel.
happy travels...