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Comments
thanks.
I'm all geeked about buying it, the only prob is i have to sell the vehicle i have now. i thought i had it sold today, then the guy backed out. The race is on to see if i can sell mine before the disco sells. i have to admit, at this point i will be a little upset if the disco sells before i can get it.
jim
I reset the system by pressing # 1 & # 3 on the radio presets and the "tp" button at the same time. This seems to solve the problem for a while then the same problem starting occuring again.
I just went over my 50,000 mile warranty period and was hoping this is a easy fix.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Greg
Your statement about "If you are serious about it, consider a trip to a Quicky Lube place and have the transfer case and auto trans fluids replaced. Diffs too. That will tell you a lot about their condition. Look for "milky" hypoid lube from the diffs... that means it's been waded with leaky axle seals."
made me think to ask a few questions. My disco spent north of an hour under a couple feet of water (tailpipe included), running the whole time. Though I often wind up with much shorter wading at this depth, this time I got stuck and had a heck of a time getter her out.
I checked the oil, looks good, and to be honest she's running better than ever. Since I have a 15K service coming up, I'm taking her in in a week, to the dealer. Anything I should do/worry about in the interim?
Thanks.
Jim
The electric seats don't work, nor does the front moonroof . I did not buy the Disco from a LR dealer (Hope it's not a :lemon: . The dealer I purchased the Disco from said they would have the seats fixed . Is this a typical problem with Disco's (electrical problems? :confuse: ) In the future do you have any suggestion on how to maintain the electrical system to help prevent future electric issues? Also is this an easy fix? Is it expensive?
The engine seems real strong. Sounds good. Are the 4.0L engines reliable? What's the typical life span?
Thank you in advance for all your help advice and insight )
JayCo
Next: you have a DiscoII so you don't have swivel balls. The older Series I Discos have big gorgeous balls at the outboard ends of the front axle and the CV joints live in there in a lube bath. A warm ball and a cold river means water gets sucked inside. But you have twin yokes and no swivels so you're okay. But you do want to check the diff lube. It's easy... use your socket wrench and pull the diff plugs. See if the lube that comes out is "milky" with streaks. If so, water leaked in thru your axle seals. If not, heck,,,, it must have been time to change it anyway, right?! Refill until it just overflows... I like 90w. Synthetic is not that important cause you'll be changing it again soon (right?)
Cheers!
There is a common fix for the failed rear windows... they tend to fail a solder joint on the circuit board that runs them. The description is posted online at another forum but I can't post the link here. It's against forum rules and I'll get spanked (again) by my ole buddy Steve.
If you write me at nanuq@bigfoot.com I'll send you the link. There's a ton of good stuff over there.
About the ill driver side mirror... no idea! I've never heard of one failing. It could be something simple or it could have suffered a mighty blow. It's easy to reach with the window rolled down... hint hint.
Best luck!
I have a 2001 Disco and it is almost impossible to put our kayaks on top of it. Has anyone found an easy way to get to the top of the Disco roof to balance and load things. Are there collapsible ladders or something that might connect to the rails that would make it easier?
Thanks!!
If it looks like hte yak will hit the back of the car before the back load bar, put a foam block there or use one of those rollers that will protect the car; for a cheapy fix: use a towel.
For front tie down: stand of the rear wheel for the front load bar (step in teh rear doorwell or on the running board if you have one to get up).
For back tie down, stand on the back bumper.
Greg
Now, in the post above I read that to change the fuel filter you have to remove a rear wheel!!! If my old man and the rest of the WWII generation ever were to read this they would fall down laughing.
Gentlemen, this is nutty. This kind of pain and torture should be saved for something truly unique (maybe a Bentley Arnage), significant (maybe a 1956 300SL), or a pavement ripper (say, a turbo Porsche).
Don't forget that GM abandoned their now venerable 3.8 V6, selling the rights and tooling etc... to AMC, only to buy it back after our late 1970's OPEC gas crunch. So- GM found it cheaper to build iron block's when gas was less than 25 cents per gallon, after the steel industry had lobbied them. Rover bought the rights and changed some steps in the casting process. Not a bad engine design, just faulty process. Buick v8 is solid and takes a beating
As far as unique, I do not see a lot of older Rover's= series vehicles on the road either. Maintenance on Porsche's and the like is even more costly and odd...Part of owning a Rover is laughing and the bad designs and trying to figure out how to fix things- It helps build character.
I have an 01 as well and just got a cracked windshield...how much $ are you talking?
Thanks!
I have '00 DII with heated windscreen. Just had it replaced two days ago by a national glass installation company. I was afraid of getting the the wrong one installed, so I had them run it by price (as a cash deal) instead of through insurance. The non- heated version ran $259.... the heated version $759!! After several choice words, I ran it through the insurance and only paid my deductible.
I did have a chip repaired for $65 a year ago. I was told heated windscreens were not a problem to repair when possible. If your crack is smaller than a dollar and not directly in front of the driver, it may be possible.
Hope that helps.
I have a similar question about brake replacement. I am about to replace the front brake pads and the new set didn't come with caliper bolts. Again, is it important to replace these each time? I had Lucas pads in the past and they came with the bolts. I thought I would try a set of Wagners this time as the amount of dust from the Lucas' is rediculous!
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Your transmission, however, may be a horse of a different color. You don't have a dipstick so yours is a sealed unit. I suspect you'll have lots higher pressures in there than mine. Plus if it does leak, how does Joe Driveway Mechanic check it? I think in this case your mechanic is right... just to be safe.
I suspect the whine you hear in 1 and 2 comes from the transfer case. It should be whining right beneath the passenger seat. This is NORMAL. You have a gear driven transfer case (massively strong) and the gears whine. At 98,000 miles mine has finally got over it, but I do sort of miss it.
Your transmission holds a LOT of oil. To get a good change you need to swap it 3x because you can't drain your torque converter. Yeah... that's a lot of trips to the recycler. Change it, wait a week, repeat. This eventually gets the majority of the old oil changed out.
Your transmission is one of the toughest available anywhere. It's sourced from ZF and it's the same one that goes on the high end Mercedes and others like that. My buddy here is the mechanic at the Rover center and he has seen ONE transmission failure on a Disco... it was shipped from the factory with no oil in it. Just remember "oil is cheaper than metal" and spend wisely.
On my truck you don't pull the calipers to change the brake pads. You just pull two cotter pins, then pull two pad keeper pins, and pop out the old pads. Make sure to put in new cotter pins when you reassemble.
One word of advice: use the softest pads you can find. They do wear quickly but they preserve your rotors.
Congratulations on working on your own truck! It's sure rewarding, isn't it?
seminole_kev, "Car Classified Chuckles" #405, 12 Jun 2005 7:33 pm
Steve, Host
Recently, my 2000 disco (w/75k miles) engine light comes on and goes off. I had the regular service performed and even had the mass air filter replaced only to have the light come on again last week :mad: .
In addition to having the mass air filter changed, the dealer found that the catalytic converter had been damaged by the 'miss fires' caused by the sticky values. Luckily, it was covered by the warranty. Like you, the dealer gave me a quote of $3k - can anyone verify what actually causes this (especially when special care if given to changing the oil on a regular consistent basis).
Other than that, I LOVE my disco ... especially during the last NY winter season - just let 'Destiny' warm up and gracefully handle the snow with ease (looking forward to off-roading in the near future). Each time that I see other owners drive their Rovers - I honk or blink my lights and acknowledge them with a wave.
Oh, by the way, thank you for the many postings to reassure that my investment was not a waste as other would have me believe. Keep passing on the experience ...
You might check and see if Rover has an extended coverage plan in place for this specific problem. If enough people had the trouble... maybe they offer to fix it at a discount?
Oil changes and injector cleaners don't help. It has to do with the cylinder head design, valve/cam timing, injection mapping, all managed by the GEMS that came with the 4.0 engine. Basically you wind up with unburnt fuel and/or fuel combustion byproducts accumulating on the exhaust valve stems. When you get enough buildup they begin to stick in the valve guides.
I wrote here a lot about this years ago... give a search back thru the archives and see if I had specifics back then that I've forgotten by now?
Good luck!
Thanks,
-d_run
Thanks,
-d_run
Look up RickRover while you're there! He used to post here...........
If your rotors have rust on them, that can rub on the brake pads and squeak as the wheel turns. Recommendation: find a big downhill and drive down it, then stand on the brakes hard. That'll clear the rust off the rotor. It may also fix the squeak. Sometimes dust accumulates from the pads wearing against the rotors, and causes squeaks.
If you have a Rover with Hookes joints ("universal joints") in the driveshaft, those can wear and squeak under throttle but not under trailing throttle (foot off the gas, or brakes on). It used to be possible to grease a Hookes joint... a dab of lube will tell you if that's the problem.
Standing on the gas on will torque the rear axle and preload the suspension components. Perhaps one of them has a worn point that's gotten loose enough to squeak? Try squirting up beneath the rear of your truck with a hose (don't squirt into the muffler) and drive it. Is it quieter? Then it's probably worn suspension bushings.
It could also be a leaking exhaust system. A pinhole will squeak air rhythmically with the exhaust pulses of your V8, and then quit squeaking when you lift off the gas. Or even failed plates inside your cat converter will rattle and make noise.
Good luck!
Thanks,
d_run
I will repost once I know what the cause is. Thanks again!
Thanks!!
Good luck!
Other questions... do a search on this forum, we've talked about these issues over and over for years.
Cheers!
I haven't posted in a couple years, glad to be back.
We own a 97 Disco, (Lizzie) with approx 147k miles. For about a year, we have an intermittent check engine light. The amber one. Dealer checked it out and said the code came back as some type of emissions (large vapor leak) error and thought the gas cap had been put on incorrectly. I don't buy it. The light might come on and stay for 1,500 miles or so, kick off for a couple hundred and come back. Generally the truck runs fine unless it's cool and damp out, then it chugs until warm. The other day it also tried to cut out on the expressway. I was going about 70 and the cruise was set. It would try to cut out and surge over and over. It was 85 and sunny. Once off the highway, it stopped and ran fine in town. It was the next time I turned it on that the check engine light was off again. Any correlation? I'm not sure. What about a fuel filter?
The truck also has 2 failed wheel speed sensors on the front. How complicated is it to replace those?
The last issue is a sideways shift when driving. You hit the gas, it pulls, you let off and it goes back. Makes for interesting driving when you're towing let me tell ya. Someone suggested checking a bar that runs from the front of the truck to the back axle that prevents that.
Any input is appreciated.
Nanuq, good to see you're still around. How's the truck(s)?
Kim
Your CEL might be a leaky gas tank! Did you get a recall notice? Check into that pronto. Also where the fill tube attaches the tank, or the gas cap. If it's starving on the freeway then I think fuel filter too.
Have you checked your fuse block beneath the bonnet (grin)? I detailed that a few years ago... if it gets corroded then poor electrical contact will make all kinds of weirdness.
The wheel speed sensors are not too bad to replace. You have to get it REALLY clean in there before you pull them, so dirt doesn't fall into the swivel housing.
As for the sideways shift when driving, check the bushings in the trailing arms (the ones from beneath the passenger's feet to the rear axle). Also check the front center attachment for the A-bar (modified Panhard bar) that connects the rear axle to the middle of the truck beneath the rear seats. Take a look at the bushings for the front Panhard bar too... it goes from the axle on one end to the frame on the other.
Good luck! Welcome back....
I just bought a 1999 Discovery II SE and I have two problems that I thought someone might be able to help me out with. First of all, I just noticed that my front passenger floor mat is soaking wet. I know that it's water for sure, and not coolant, but I don't know where it's coming from. I'm thinking it might be the A/C but if anyone has any ideas please throw them my way.
Also, sometimes when I hit 15, 30, or 45 MPH my steering wheel shakes for a second or two. I got the wheels balanced twice last week and that didn't solve the problem. If anyone can help me with either of the problems I would really appreciate it. Thanks.
-Tambi
Also, they have an '01 Certified Range Rover HSE for the same price. Anyone have experience with this model? The Rover has 45,000 miles.
Thanks, drn92
As for the vibration, look for the easiest fixes first. I was told a "high speed" balance would work better. That came from the dealership. Also, check for uneven tire wear, this MAY help point out any serious problems underneath like broken or worn suspension parts. But, I'm not sure the shake would go away if that were the deal.
The front end vibration is likely caused by a worn steering damper. On mine it happens at 52mph. Replace the damper (eaaaaaaaaasy job) and you're set.