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Lights come on, battery cables are fine. When trying to turn the key i get one pinging click and then thats it. I just had the fuel pump replaced on this 5 months ago and the starter was replaced just over a year ago. I checked all the fuses for the starter, ignition, and even the engine as well as checked all my plugs to ensure everything was connected good. the noise is coming for the lower left hand corner of the engine bay.
If any one has any ideas on what i can check or how I can get it to start that would be great as its stuck as the grocery store 15 miles from my house and I would love to at least get it to my local machines shop so he can fix is Monday.
Thanks
:sick: Rob
I don't know who your transmission guy is, but you better get a second opinion. The cooling system in a Blazer is more than adequate for the engine and auto tranny, even here in central Texas. I have two Blazers, and can run both in 100+ temps with the A/C on and towing a trailer and the temp guage never goes above 195, which is where the thermostat is set.
And I can find no information on a "heat control sensor" in the 4L60E transmission. Now, you can get weird issues if you overheat the tranny by letting your coolant get low, or otherwise obstruct the radiator as the transmission cooling lines go through the radiator. But I have never heard of a temp sensor in the tranny, nor can I find anything about it in my manuals.
Typically, stumbling and jerking with additional load (a/c, towing, hills) come down to the basics of ignition and fuel delivery, and usually ignition. The 4.3L has a bad habit of the coil to distributor wire arcing against a metal bracket between the two. Depending on the mileage (>50K) I will check for burned rotor and cap, and also look for arc marks on the wires.
While there are certainly other things that can cause stumbling, a bad wire, rotor, or cap will not set a fault code until they get really bad. So these are the places I start with.
Jim
I have a 97 Blazer , 4.3 vortec. The car run fine yesterday, but this morning nothing. It will turn over but it wont start. We had lot of rain last few days, but I dont know if this will have anything to do with it.The car run allways fine, even it sat for 2 weeks she started right away. Any info will be appreciated.
Good luck!
Lori
You might try starting the truck, and while running mist the cap with water (mist, not drown! ) and if nothing misfires, lightly mist other areas of the engine to see if something hiccups. Then make note of where you were misting when the misfire occured.
If it didn't come with the wires, get a small tube of dialectric grease and use it where the wires plug onto the cap and plugs. Not only does it give you a water tight seal, it makes it easier to get the wires off the plugs for a tune up.
I need some help really bad!!!!!
My 2001 Chevy Blazer runs like a champ and can go hundreds of miles when it is cold outside! When it heats up I find that I can go down the higway for miles and it runs just fine but when I come to a stop sign or stop light when it is hot and has been running for a while it will just die I then put it in park and it runs again until I have to stop! I just took it in and they cant find any problems of course, I have a appointment on Saturday for a dealership to look at it but just to take it in it will cost me $110 for them to diagnois and I just lost my job so money is really tight! I am begging for an answer! Thanks
It will be paid off in 4 months, and I don't want a new car loan...please help if you have any ideas!
Replace the in-line fuel filter if you have not already recently done so. The in-line fuel filter should routinely be replaced every 10,000 miles.
TANK:
When the fuel pump in the fuel tank is replaced, it is recommended that the tank screen and tank wiring harness should be replaced also. Some even recommend that the tank should be removed and cleaned when the fuel pump, harness and screen are replaced. The logic is that fuel pumps must have a reason to fail and if the harness is bad and the screen is contaminated, the new pump will prematurly fail.
Thanks again.
The electromechanic mention that is the Instrument panel Cluster the one causing the problem and I can not get a replacement for it. please assit.
I have a 1994 Bravada 4.3 CPI Engine - Vin W, 135,000 miles on it. I own the car about 4 and a half years and is used mainly as a 2nd car and in winters. (4 wheel drive vehicle) About 3 months ago I was driving from Pa to NY, about 120 miles each way. It is mainly highway driving. I was near my destination on the highway, when it stalled out on me. I pulled over and it started right up. Then after I got off the highway, it started to stall out by every light and stop sign, and again it started right up each time.
On my way back home about 6 hours later, again it was doing the same thing. Once I got to the highway it ran fine for a about 105 miles. Once I got to my exit on the highway and got off, the car stalled out again. This time it would not start up. So I had it towed back to my house. The next day it started right up. I shut it off and I went to buy new spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, ignition coil, PCV valve, and fuel filter. I had the fuel pump changed in May of 2005 (about 15,000 miles ago) The fuel pressure is 58 with IOEO. It still does not start. I do not have any engine light on.
I went to a salvage yard where you pull your own parts. I got a used Map sensor, IAC sensor, TPS sensor, EGR valve, CPI unit and a computer. It was from a vehicle that was in an accident. I changed parts one at a time. It still won't start. I checked the oil, I do smell gas in it. I know that means that there is a leak somewhere. I'm not sure what that means nor how to look for that?
I also read in your posts that it could be the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I have the Haynes repair manual and it does not mention anything about it. Can any one please tell me where it is and be specific about it and is it hard to change? Can someone also tell me if you could start the car with the Air intake plenum off the car, or does it have to be on and under pressure?
Thanks for all your help.
George
PS. You guys are great! I learn so much from these forums. I feel like I could one day become a mechanic from these forums.
If you have a hard failure of the CPS, there should be a code set in the computer.
Glenn
With regard to the problem, it could be a bad crankshaft position sensor. If the sensor doesn't "see" the engine turning, it shuts off the fuel flow. This sensor is mounted down by the crankshaft at the 7 o'clock position facing the engine.
Questions:
How many miles on the engine?
Did the problem come on suddenly, or worsen over time?
Is the "Service Engine Soon" light coming on when the engine is running?
The fuel pump circuit is designed to pressurize when you first turn the key on, but will only continue to run if the CPS tells the computer the engine is turning. Give us some more detail and we will try to help.
Jim
But the description you detailed above with the problem getting worse and worse does sound more like the fuel regulator or fuel spider assembly. GM did have a problem with regulators "leaking down" where the engine would get flooded when not running, making it very hard to start, and causing it to run rough at low speed. At higher engine speeds the engine would run rich, but still run.
If you have an Autozone in your area, they can read the code that has been set in the computer and tell you where the problem is occuring. Any time a service engine soon lamp is lit, a code is set in the ECM indicating what is wrong. Let me say here that you have to put some thought behind what it tells you. I have seen folks replace oxygen sensors because thats what the code said was bad, when the problem was a damaged wiring harness. I had a car that twice indicated the throttle position sensor was bad. Shop replaced it twice under warranty before the mechie noticed that one of the contacts wasn't snapped into the connector and was only making intermittent connection. Once fully seated, the problem never occured again.
So, get the code checked, and see if you get a heavy fuel smell from the throttle body after the vehicle sits overnight. That will give you an indication that the fuel regulator is leaking.
can you tell me if i would have a canister on my 1993 s-10 blazer 4.3 vortex? if so would this canister prevent normal performance of the vehicle, such as cranking / running? the vehicle will crank{not consistently} but when it will you can maybe go a mile && it shuts down. if i had to describe , it feels like trash in the fuel line/obstruction. however, let it sit for an hour && it cranks up. i have replaced 4fuel pumps{3 nock-offs & 1 ac delco} list of items replaced is excessive: fuel pump assembly, fueltank, relay,fuel filter, cpi spydar assembly, oil sending unit{my oil pressure showed low @times when full}, o2 sensor & ignition module,. the fuel pressure is excellent & consistent. we have got a trouble code # 43 electronic spark control but haynes manual is vague on the subject. i know you re thinking all that for a 1993? yes with a rebuilt motor with no more than 30,000miles. we cant give up, however, we are getting frustrated!! please ANYONE can you help.
Thanks, iSOiA
Mike | mmillers29@yahoo.com
The fuel line to the filter is a hard connection on the driver's side of the frame.A hard connection is necessary because of the high fuel line pressure used with modern fuel injection. The "vapor lock" problem does not occur anymore. That was in the early days of carburated engines and has not occured since the mid-1960s and then it was caused by underhood temperatures. If it were a problem today, you would hear about vapor lock more often. You must solve the fuel line to filter issue and zip locks are only a temporary spit and bailing wire solution. Replacing the fuel filter can be troublesome due to the location and the hard connections but those type connections must be made. If the fuel line is damaged, the damaged area must be cut out and replaced with section of new fuel line and brass connections.
The problem is most likely electrical. Start by replacing the fuel tank relay. They are cheap. The relay is located under the dash and is a plug-in connection. The fuel pump relay is AC Delco 15-50688 and it costs $9.00.
A restricted catalytic converter will cause the exhaust O2 sensor to tell the ECM (Engine Control Module) to make the engine do strange things. There is no way to check for a restricted catalytic converter except to replace it. If someone wants to test a catalytic converter for a restricted condition before they replace it, the only thing that can be done is to replace it with a temporary "test pipe" to see if the vehicle's performance improves. An emmissions test will not indicate if the catalytic converter is restricted. Factory catalytic converters are expensive. Since they are required on vehicles by the federal government, the new car manufacturers must guarantee them for 80,000 miles. The cheaper aftermarket catalytic converters that are installed on pre-owned vehicles must be guaranteed for only 26,000 miles. Your O2 sensor in the exhaust pipe ahead of the catalytic converter could be bad but are easy to replace. An O2 sensor is AC Delco AFS 105.....$65.00.
You appear to have good fuel pressure. However, the fuel pump module assembly cost from $360 to $400 for a 2000 Jimmy, depending on the brand plus the labor cost for installation. I doubt if that is your problem.
My Blazer starts but it usually cranks quite a few times before it starts. It never used to do this and it is getting worse. It always starts and once it is running it runs great. It just takes a few tries to get it started.
"Spider" is a good name for this assembly. There is a large injector 'pump' with six tubes, each one running out to a cylinder.
On 1992-1995 Vin-W engines , the fuel pressure regulator is part of the CPI (Central Port Injection) assembly which is located inside the upper intake manifold plenum. You must remove the upper intake manifold plenum to access the CPI assembly. The fuel pressure regulator on those models cannot be replaced spearately from the CPI assembly. The cost of the CPI assembly is more than $500. There is an alternative to replacing the entire CPI assembly when the fuel pressure regulator fails. You can now purchase a new fuel pressure regulator separately from the CPI, It is offered by Dorman as part #55162 and it cost $47.95.
I knew it was just a matter of time before some company would offer a fuel pressure regulator separately form the CPI assembly.