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I having problem to start the car, but the rare thing is that only happens when I'm using the key to start the car, it always start without a problem with the remote starter. For instance today while leaving home I notice that it was snowing a bit so I remote started the car so it'll warm up a bit, I got in the car, disconnect the remote starter and tried the key, it gave me problem, it was like it was about to start but it didn't. I remote started the car again, wait like a minute and then tried the key again and it started this time. I have asked the car to be checked twice last year for the same problem but always I was told that everything was ok, starter, battery and so on.
Is there anything that it's by-passed when you remote start the car but is essential to start the car with the key?
Thanks
The fuel pump sends the fuel down the line @ 60 psi, but then the pressure slacks off immediately following. I have to crank for about 6-7 seconds to start. However, if it has a full tank, and I turn the key all the way to start immediately there is wait and it catches right away.
My thought is there is a minute hole in the line somewhere that is causing the unit to lose prime.
does this sound reasonable? The fellow I spoke with wants $1000 to replace the fuel pump (this is in Canada) and I'm not too keen on that. I don't think it will solve the problem as indicated in some of these earlier posts.
What do you guys think?
The electrical on this truck is pretty good, but I'm slowly eliminating things with the multimeter.
20 hours trouble shooting?
Did you ever get this solved? Mines doing the EXACT same thing...
Thanks,
Brian
now for your issue, if you have the 4.3 liter vortec cpi, there is a big problem with the fuel pressure regulator leaking into bank 1 in the intake manifold causing all of bank 1 (the driver's side 3 cylinders) to randomly misfire. it will foul your o2 sensor and cause severe damage to your catalytic converter which can ultimately cause severe damage to your engine (excessive back pressure). i had one of these blazers in high school and every other year we had to replace the cat and bank 1 sensor 1 o2 sensor and we couldn't figure out why til i started taring apart the intake and found a puddle of gasoline in the bank 1 side of he manifold (these things have a two piece intake manifold). i later found out when i started working in a shop that there is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) on the fuel pressure regulator that describes the symptoms that i experienced and furthermore some of the symptoms that you listed that you are having difficulties with. hope that helps. good luck.
I checked on another forum and apparently it can be an issue with your fuel pressure regulator, or the the hoses running from the fuel meter body to the poppet nozzles on the injectors inside the intake plenum. My mechanic says he can probably rebuild mine with the parts from a V8 spider (that's what they call the whole thing) that he has. It could be just the fuel pressure regulator - try turning it on until the pump quits, off, then on until the pump quits, off, and then turn the key right to start - it starts after one crank every time when I've done that. Apparently it's 5 hours work in the book to do the job, plus parts, so for now I'm turning that key off and on a lot.
hope it helps.
But yes, the regulator is part of the spider under the plenum.
Normal parasitic battery drain is usually less than 8 ma. A good shop can test the system at the battery posts to see if there is excessive battery drain when the engine is not running. Excessive would be more than 20 ma.
Come to find out chevy never installed a GROUND wire/cable to the frame
as the truck age the 27 ground straps chevy has begin to decay and the only ground path the rear lights can find is the internal ground in the fuel pump(question have you been having problems with the rear lights ,the brake system lighting is attched to the fuel pump )
a simple check/cure
Attach a jumper cable from the NEGATIVE side of the battery to the frame
Then step on the brakes once Then start your vehicle
Note
ALL 88 and newer chevy wireing systems incorperate an emergency shut down to the fuel system
IF your oil preasure sending unit (located near the base of the distributer) is faulty it cuts power to the fuel pump
if you loose ground the brake light interaction with the fuel pump will not allow the proper voltage to the fuel pump
Hook a jumper cable from the negative side of the battery to the frame
alternate problem low oil preasure or faulty oil/fuel preasure sending unit ( oil preasuer/fuel preasure sensor ) gauge sending unit (next to base of distributer )
I have got all repairs done at the local Chevy dealership. I have hoped that they would be familiar with things like this. Guess not. Can you show me where I can find that technical service bulletin?
Brother, I owe you a steak. You've solved a frustrating mystery for me.
First of all I am not a mechanic, so I hope I can help.
This is what I think about the hot stalling problem. If you have checked fuel pressure and it's good, the fuel pump is probably OK. Then check the fuel pump relay, when you turn the key to "on" not start, the fuel pump will run for a couple of seconds. Someone else might have to turn the key to hear it. My intake manifold popped so I had to take off the whole top of the engine. While there I replaced the fuel regulator under the intake manifold plenum.
Last year when this started, I was driving on the first hot day and the car wouldn’t start at the store. So I got a rag and wet it and cooled down the ICM. The car started, so I bought a replacement. After the ICM replacement I was able to drive to Tucson and back during 110° days both ways.
The after I got home, it would not start again after going to the store. I got stuck and had to be towed home, where it started fine again.
So this year after the car stalled so I did this:
I got an old scrap heat sink from something. I trimmed it to the same size as the original. Using the original holes as a template I drilled matching holes in the scrap heat sink. Using new long bolts and nuts I assembled ICM/silver paste/stock heat sink facing out/silver paste/scrap heat sink facing out the other way/U bracket.
Using a piece of aluminum sheet, I made a "serif" U bracket that matched the coil mount bracket and mounted the assembly on the old bracket. The silver paste is used to thermally connect a CPU or chip to a heat sink.
I have a thought about hot fuel.
The fuel runs on a loop from the tank to the injector, demand opens the fuel regulator, and unused fuel goes back into the tank.
I bought a scan tool that connects to my laptop and watched it while driving around. On an 80° day the intake air temp was 185°!!! The tool only went to 140°.
So I checked the airbox, under the air filter. The snoot coming out of there was not getting any fresh air, it was only ½ from the front wall with no vent holes, so I removed the snoot. The temperature dropped to 100° and the car has not failed since on three 110° days. I did not modify the airbox. I also keep the tank mostly full to cool the fuel pump (that’s why it’s in the tank).
**So I thought that the fuel in the tank was getting heated by the engine, returned hot fuel right next to the fuel pump causing the pump to go too low (overheating). The hot air caused a super vapor lock. So I put a fiberglass shield under the fuel line on the engine.**
Car starts now.
Then it will stall and stop. You then have to put it in park and restart it. It will run a few feet and stall again. You have to pull over and let the car sit untill it cools off. This happened to me 3 times today. I just had the radiator replaced as well, because it suddenly started running hot and and the radiator had a crack in it. Also the abs and brake lights will come on and the fuel gauge will read wrong.
One minute it says it has half a tank and minutes later it reads empty. You have to just know how much gas you have put in. This is VERY frustrating and it appears there is no sure answer. This car is terrible
Unfortunately, the 1987 - 2002 S10/S15 trucks and Blazers are delicate and are "high maintenance" vehicles. They do not respond well to most cheap off-shore replacement parts. However, I installed Denso TT double platinum spark plugs in my 1991 S10 Blazer. The Denso spark plugs are made in Japan and IMO, are much better than the ACDelco Rapid Fire single platinum spark plugs that are made in Mexico and Denso TT spark plugs cost half as much as AC Delco Rapid Fire spark plugs. The new ACDelco Rapid Fire spark plugs have recently been redesigned and now appear to be a two dollar spark plug in a three dollar box.
The logo has been changed from AC Delco owned by GM to ACDelco, owned by whoever, with no space between the AC and Delco.
I tried everything, even the fuel pump. Still wasn't a fix, traded it in for another 1998 s10 blazer.
Then about in 2004 I bought a 2002 ZR2 blazer and what takes place at 118K?
$500.00 Fuel Pump!
I had it replaced, and then only at 123k, This stalling issue arises.
What do ya know?!?!
I'm back to the 1988 Blazer issue. Wow! It seems that GM and Chevrolet haven't fixed this issue. Hmm, I wonder why? Maybe because they seen this "issue" as a Cash Cow?
I would have to think so. Being that so many of us experience the SAME STALLING for no apparent reason. Hmm, I wonder why they pushed for their "Owner Loyalty" program so much? Do you think that it could be that so many of us are still having 2 and 3 decade old issues with our GM made vehicles, that they would have to get us buying another GM product by giving us a discount?
I would have to say so!
Google yourself this issue with any model year s10 and you'll read the same stalling.
No sure fix yet.
I've been a Chevy man all of my life!
Until Now!
Next vehicle.....FORD!
There is NO Way on this planet that I'll pay for a Hummer H3, which is a FAT ZR2, totally based on the blazer zr2 and for 10k more.
Now I understand why GM scrapped the entire s10 line.
And I also understand why such a large company went under.
Way to go GM, Just change the names and keep selling the same cheap products.
Cavalier = Cobalt
Blazer ZR2 = Hummer H3
Blazer LS = HHR
LOL, seriously now!
After changing all of this:
Ignition coil, distributor cap and rotor, ignition module, sparkplugs, cables.
After changing all of them, it still would stall.
Then soon after I changed the plugs, it got so bad, it wouldn't even start.
Even after sitting.
Now remember this part. Everybody seemed like an expert.
Do not but the cheaper types of fuel pumps. Because the one that I have to replace now, only got me to 10 months!
This is the 3rd fuel pump. I'm saving up the $399.00 to but the original AC Delco.
Everything else is JUNK! Do not waste your money on the cheaper brands.
I was also told that the cam sensors are really problematic on the entire lines of ALL GM cars. Right now it's not the issue, but I will have it changed out asap.
Have you checked the fuel pressure?
That will tell you without a doubt that it is the pump.
When it stalls, check the pressure on the fuel line valve that's right behind the fuel intake. It is like a valve on your tire, but made of metal.
Stick a tip of a pen in there after it stalls. If the gass shoots out? Its not the pump.
But if it doesn't shoot out? It's definitely your pump!
There should be enough pressure to spray out like a bat out of hell. Mine just basically spurted out, and after that, no preasure at all.
Write back on here if you find the culprit.
I will say this, i'll never buy another GM 4 or 6 banger.
GM built them to fail, that's why GM and ac delco used to be one in the same.
To make money from their junk cars!
Look it up as I did, and learn.
A heart warming story of a massive company that got greedy and lost customers because of their cheap products.
This is why they needed the bail out money.
Massive Loss of car sales and customer loyalty.
Sorry you had trouble with the fuel pump! That's an expensive fix!
Thanks, Joethe the
After it stalls it will never immediately restart. I have to wait ~10 minutes and then it starts every time. It runs great other than the stalling.
I also have an EGR code being thrown so I cleaned it and replaced the seal. The code is still being thrown but I don't think it's related.
At this point I started looking at the fuel system.
Hooked up a pressure gauge:
turned the key to ACC: ~60psi
Start the engine: 60psi but then goes down to about 54psi
Stop the engine and wait 5 min: ~52 psi
At this point I assume the Fuel regulator is good.
I left the fuel pressure gauge hooked up and went for a drive. It stalled in a parking lot. The pressure was around 40psi. I then relieved the pressure to zero psi.
With the key to ACC: zero psi
cranked the engine: still zero psi.
Waited ~10 minutes and put the key to ACC: ~60psi (then and cranked and started the engine -- it ran fine)
The fuel relay is good (it supplies power to the pump but the pump does not engage).
Since the pump is being powered but does not turn on it has to be a faulty fuel pump correct?
No differance, and shortly after changing the cap and rotor, it would not start.
So, after all of the other changes, a guy at checker said that the cam shaft sensors are terrible in all 4 and 6 banger gm's.
I never changed that....yet.
I then decided to check gas pressure, i can hear the pump charge sometimes, but not all.
So i figure its the fuel pump.
If i change the fuel pump, and it still doesn't run or start, i'm giving up and selling as a parts car. I've just had it with GM-Chevy.
At this point, i'm already saying-"Never again in my life will i spend another dime on GM-Government Motors.
Next truck will definitely be a ford f350.
I'm tired of dealing with garbage.
This Blazer ZR2 hasn't even hit 10 years, and it just hit 121,000 miles and has been babied.
My 88 s10 was built like a tank when compared to this piece of junk.
I even beat the hell out of it as if was my first 4x4.
The $40.00 fuel pump made it to 164,000 miles.
This $400.00 fuel pump, original, didn't make it to 120,000.
GM should be JM and stand for Junk Motors, as far as i am concerned!
But, never again.
FORD, here i come!
I do know my daughter had a gm product (sorry don't remember what it was) and hers always stalled and fluttered but under warranty the dealership never found anything wrong with it. It was a 2001 also, a smaller car. After my husband tried replacing everything electrical, once it was out of warranty, and it still didn't fix it we sent to have it repaired, which they didn't fix the first time either When it stranded her on the express way, a few days later, and we called the guy he claims we didn't tell him it was stalling, they replaced the fuel pump and it was fine. Might want to see if someone can check your fuel pump, while it is working, it might not be working at full capacity, and maybe with the hot weather is creating a vapor lock of sorts. Just and idea no science or exact cause behind it, just sort of odd that after the fuel pump is fixed the other problem went away as well.
The IAC has a simple job. The IAC is a "electronic stepper control valve motor" and adjusts a measured amount of idle air that the ECM (Engine Computer Module) wants based on when the engiune is cold, warm, in park, in neutral or when the A.C. is on.
Install IAC:
1. Do not push or pull on IAC pentel if the IAC has been in service. The threads on the worn drive may be damaged.
2. Before installing the IAC, measure the pentel from the IAC flange to the tip. It must be 1.100" . Use finger pressure to retract the pentel to 1.100" if it is in is it is excess of that measurement.
3. Lube O-ring with a small amount of fresh engine oil.
4. Install IAC assembly. Install the attachment screws at 27 in. lb. torque (hand tight) using blue Loctite 262. Note: Professional automobile repair technicians have a habit of over-tightening everything.
5. Reconnect IAC harness connector.
Reset IAC pentel position:
1. Turn ignition on for 20 seconds.
2. Turn ignition off for 10 seconds.
3. Start engine
4. Check engine idle in all conditions.
Recommended IAC valves:
GM 17113209....... $162.56 MSRP
Delphi CV10011.... $80.00 retail price