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He's trying to make money off of you.
Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.
Those are the signs that the fuel pump is on it's way to dying.
If you're going to buy a small car, buy a Toyota.
The toyota corolla is a 300,000 mile car. Treat it like crap? It'll go 250,000 miles. Give it what it needs? It's guaranteed for 300,000 miles.
A Small truck or SUV? Buy a Toyota.
Full size truck or SUV? Buy a Ford F250 or bigger.
If your next purchase is a Chevrolet, Then you deserve to be in the same place having the same problems. Just hope that it doesn't take place in a really bad spot like it did me.
I've been a life long Chevrolet owner.
My next vehicle purchase will be one of these Toyota's or Fords.
Go to Craigslist and do a search for Toyota Corolla. You'll find multiple vehicles that have over 200,000 miles ORIGINAL MOTOR!
Study the Chevrolet. You'll find that the vehicle was designed to fail. Look at repairing it? You'll find that Chevrolet designed it so that you couldn't do the work on it. They designed it to be fixed by the dealer with the expensive tools.
One tip off: Why would ANYBODY post and rivet into place, an electronic piece of the system ONTO THE TOP OF THE MOTOR ITSELF?????
Electronics don't do well when exposed to heat!!! But, The bright minds at GM/Chevrolet thought that it would be a fun thing to do! Just to get you back into their circle of Union Employee's who don't know how to build a good machine.
One part that describes what I am telling you: Ignition Module. Posted onto a METAL bracket and ON TOP of the motor and what else? It's riveted there!!!
I'll never buy a GM/ Chevrolet ever again in my life!
Sell yours to some [non-permissible content removed] and go out an buy a good running vehicle. One that'll be reliable and safe for you and your family.
Apparently, That's not something that it high on GM's list.
Cam Position Sensor
Crank Position Sensor (it was very dirty but had not been making contact with anything)
EGR Valve (I was just going to clean it but it was beyond that)
Throttle Position Sensor (I know, it was a long shot but I was at the auto parts store and thought what the heck, let's go ahead and replace this too.)
Fuel Pressure is 60 PSI and holds for quite a while after turning off the engine so I am reasonably certain that it's not the fuel pump or a leak in the fuel system.
I have not been able to find a vacuum leak anywhere and all the vacuum hoses appear to be in good shape.
I am wondering if the actual ECM is bad/going bad. When I hook my OBD checker up to the connection in the truck it does not see the truck. I tested it on two of my other vehicles and the checker is good.
Any ideas?
That's the one part that I had discounted because it didn't seem to make a difference when the AC engaged. I'll try that next,
After the stall at first, I would try to start it up, and boom, it started as if there was no problem.
It all happens about 10 to 15 minutes after the first start.
Do not trust it anymore!
I took mine out of town, it stalled and would not start back up.
I had it towed from sedona to phoenix. Rental car, place to stay for the night. Equally $800.00!
Your fuel pump is on it's way out!
Plan on spending about $600.00 for it to be fixed.
Give or take 1 hundred.
The pump alone will cost you about $400.00. Mine is the 2 door 4x4 ZR2.
There are several different ones, GM and Chevy had to make things harder.
Don't listen to what shops and stores tell you!
They'll say it's the coil, the distributor, spark plugs, ignition control module. BS! I changed out all of those and a few others.
It's the fuel pump.
Do Not Buy the cheap brands for under 100 bucks!
I did that, it lasted about 8 months, and I'm back to square one!
Mine gets fixed on the 1st of the new year, from sitting for over 6 months!
Do not let checkers, autozone or others like that talk you into buying the other things.
If you're going to get one thing from them, rent the fuel pressure guage.
You get your money back when you take it back.
It's an easy procedure to do! ANYBODY can do it!
Also, when mine stalled out over 20 times! It gave NO trouble codes!
It even stalled at autozone in front of the guy. He checked for codes...NOTHING!
Trust me, dude! It's the fuel pump! And it's inside of the gas tank. The brilliant minds at GM made everything hard to fix on it.
Also, don't let them tell you it's a sensor.
Just have them scan it for trouble codes. If nothing shows up? Then it can't be a sensor! The sensors talk to the computer, the computer then shows a code.
Remember that!
Also, don't let them tell you it's the crank sensor.
My 1st original pump didn't even make it to 120,000 miles!
What's your mileage?
I have a 2002 Chevy blazer with about 215,000 miles on it. My fuel pump gave out ( I've had no other problems with my blazer before this, it ran just beautifully) recently and I had it replaced. After getting it back from my mechanic I noticed I was getting half of the gas mileage I used to get. I took it back and my mechanic changed my spark plugs. I picked up my car and drove it home. The next time I went to start my car it would not start. I had it towed to the firestone down the street, and had to change my Dist cap and rotary back. My car started up just fine, strong as ever. I'm still getting this horrible gas mileage, any ideas on what it could possibly be?
Note: This only happens in the Winter when the temp is 32 degrees or below. Once the weather warms up no issues...........I can count on this starting every December for the past 3 years!
:mad:
Some people might have these that made it past 200k, like you, but believe me, it's an oddity.
But do look into a Toyota for a small 4 or 6 cylinder.
Ford F-250 or 350 for a full size truck.
Research and see for yourself how many toyota's are reaching 300k at 400k miles.
A small for, GM or dodge reaching 300k? Just doesn't happen.
I was told by an authorized dealer, the fuel pump doesn't send codes.
Now remember this part:
I went to all the parts sellers, Checker, Autozone, and none of them knew this. They just kept saying, "Sounds like blah blah blah...." And of course, I bought about 400 bucks worth of parts. Some even said the engine crank sensor. If it was the engine crack sensor, that would send a code. So don't let them [non-permissible content removed] you. Take it straight to a dealer.
Mine was fixed, it was the fuel pump and now I'm back in business.
Also another tip. I had them put in the exact brand name fuel pump.
Best Part: LifeTime Warranty, and guaranteed because a profesional authorized shop installed it.
If it ever goes out on me again, I get a new one FOR FREE!!!
My Blazer 4.3 ZR2 would start fine, then after about 10 minutes, begin to sputter or just cut out completely.
It finally died. After 6 months of sitting in the driveway, I threw in a new battery, it cranked and started enough for me to move it.
I let it idle, then it died, never to start again.
The dealer sent a tow truck, they took it, I got it back with a new fuel pump and I'm back in business!
Don't waste your time on parts store. Have a dealer pick it up and fix it.
But also have about a grand for this. The pump on my 2002 ZR2 was $420.00.
I hope this helps!
The recent world reports on the most reliable cars and trucks is Ford. yes they had their moments of trouble, but, all the manufacturers in america did then. But now Ford is a real world contender and they always had the best truck. So yes your decision to buy a ford next time is a wise one. Chevy trucks are no more than glorified cars anyway.
The problem with the 1992 - 1995 CPI system found on the 4.3L "W" engines can be traced to a defective fuel pressure regulator. The fuel pressure regulator on the CPI system could not be serviced separately from the fuel distribution "spider" assembly. Dorman Products recognized the problem and introduced a fuel pressure regulator that could be serviced separately from the fuel distribution assembly (spider). Dorman #55162 is a fuel pressure regulator for the 1992-1995 CPI found on the VIN "W" engines . The Dorman 55162 fuel pressure regulator cost $35 but the labor cost will be the same as it would be if you replaced the entire CPI fuel distribution assembly (spider). Replacing the fuel pressure regulator on the CPI will save about $250 compared to replacing the entire fuel distribution assembly.
It is important to make sure the ignition cables are in the wire looms and are in good condition. Ignition cables should be replaced at 30,000 mile intervals along with the distributor cap and rotor. GM sold individual ignition cables for customers who found one or two damaged cables. However, GM stopped that practice and now GM only sells complete ignition cable sets, just like the all the aftermarket suppliers.
So I'm really not sure where to start looking for the problem. Tools and $$$ are limited right now so any help pinpointing the issue would be greatly appreciated.
did you every find a fix to your truck? I know it's a 4 year old post, but I have the exact same issue and done the exact same thing...I even took off the whole exhaust system to eliminate plugged CAT...UGH! I'm at my wits end too. ANY help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
Don