Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Chevy Blazer Starting and Stalling Problems

1…45679

Comments

  • mama8mama8 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Chevy Blazer. Over the past 2 weeks, it has stalled out four times. The mechanic has changed the altenator, battery, ignition coil, fuel pump ,and spider something. He actually changed the spider thing yesterday, got the truck running, and it stalled out not even 10 minutes later. Now the mechanic is saying its the computer in the truck. I don't have money to keep buying parts that don't need replaced (let alone keep paying for the tows) - I am looking for any possible answers. thanks
  • s10junkowners10junkowner Member Posts: 10
    It's the fuel pump. Don't let him drive you into the poor house.
    He's trying to make money off of you.
    Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.
    Those are the signs that the fuel pump is on it's way to dying.
  • mama8mama8 Member Posts: 2
    Will have it towed to a different shop tomorrow. thank you!
  • julioctjulioct Member Posts: 1
    One year ago i replaced the battery and a terminal post. Now i cant get it started we tried a battery charge and a jump start and it turns over but it wont start. Seem like the battery is not holding a charge. Any ideas ?
  • elaney1981elaney1981 Member Posts: 16
    I would say get the battery bench tested at autozone. If it turns out good it's not that. I would then look to see if the ground is good for the battery, but I don't think it's a battery issue since you said it cranks. It sounds more like a fuel issue. Can you hear the fuel pump build pressure? Get the fuel pressure tested. The last but less likely issue the key chip is not telling the computer to send fuel. Good luck keep up posted.
  • s10junkowners10junkowner Member Posts: 10
    I'm not being a wise [non-permissible content removed] in replying to you.
    If you're going to buy a small car, buy a Toyota.
    The toyota corolla is a 300,000 mile car. Treat it like crap? It'll go 250,000 miles. Give it what it needs? It's guaranteed for 300,000 miles.
    A Small truck or SUV? Buy a Toyota.
    Full size truck or SUV? Buy a Ford F250 or bigger.

    If your next purchase is a Chevrolet, Then you deserve to be in the same place having the same problems. Just hope that it doesn't take place in a really bad spot like it did me.

    I've been a life long Chevrolet owner.
    My next vehicle purchase will be one of these Toyota's or Fords.
    Go to Craigslist and do a search for Toyota Corolla. You'll find multiple vehicles that have over 200,000 miles ORIGINAL MOTOR!

    Study the Chevrolet. You'll find that the vehicle was designed to fail. Look at repairing it? You'll find that Chevrolet designed it so that you couldn't do the work on it. They designed it to be fixed by the dealer with the expensive tools.
    One tip off: Why would ANYBODY post and rivet into place, an electronic piece of the system ONTO THE TOP OF THE MOTOR ITSELF?????
    Electronics don't do well when exposed to heat!!! But, The bright minds at GM/Chevrolet thought that it would be a fun thing to do! Just to get you back into their circle of Union Employee's who don't know how to build a good machine.
    One part that describes what I am telling you: Ignition Module. Posted onto a METAL bracket and ON TOP of the motor and what else? It's riveted there!!!

    I'll never buy a GM/ Chevrolet ever again in my life!
    Sell yours to some [non-permissible content removed] and go out an buy a good running vehicle. One that'll be reliable and safe for you and your family.
    Apparently, That's not something that it high on GM's list.
  • mikec84mikec84 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 blazer and I was on my way to work when it just shut off for 2 months now it hasn't turned over.I have a new fuel pump ,fuel filter,all o2 sensors replaced, crankshaft sensor replaced,camshaft sensor replaced,new spark plugs, wires, distributer cap, rotor button. I've checked the catalyc converter done a fuel pressure test. What else could it be? Its not getting good spark. What is stopping it from starting??????
  • semperfi65semperfi65 Member Posts: 1
    1998 Blazer starts normally with no problem but will not idle intermittently. I have already replaced and or tested:

    Cam Position Sensor
    Crank Position Sensor (it was very dirty but had not been making contact with anything)
    EGR Valve (I was just going to clean it but it was beyond that)
    Throttle Position Sensor (I know, it was a long shot but I was at the auto parts store and thought what the heck, let's go ahead and replace this too.)

    Fuel Pressure is 60 PSI and holds for quite a while after turning off the engine so I am reasonably certain that it's not the fuel pump or a leak in the fuel system.

    I have not been able to find a vacuum leak anywhere and all the vacuum hoses appear to be in good shape.

    I am wondering if the actual ECM is bad/going bad. When I hook my OBD checker up to the connection in the truck it does not see the truck. I tested it on two of my other vehicles and the checker is good.

    Any ideas?
  • dgarrett13dgarrett13 Member Posts: 13
    Well, I spent over $1000 on parts and labor at 3 different mechanics. Come to find out, my husband fixed it, but the new part he put on was bad!!!!! After changing the IAC, TPS, Ignition Coil, spark plugs and wires, Cam Position Sensor, Rotor button, Distributor Cap, Throttle body cleaned, Thermostat changed and towed because it would just stop when I let off the gas, the last mechanic found out that it was the Idle Air Control. It seems the second thing my husband changed would have fixed it, but the part was bad!!! Be careful with parts!!! I really did need some of the other stuff replaced, but did not enjoy paying for it all at once! It seems Blazers DO NOT LIKE any parts that are not AC Delco!!! Also, it seems my ignition coil (bought at Auto Zone) is not AC Delco and does not fit exactly right, so, we had to re-rout the connection so it would stay snug in the coil!
  • dgarrett13dgarrett13 Member Posts: 13
    I will not buy another GM either. I have a 91 Ford Ranger that is still going strong. Easy to work on. My 87 Bronco II was running (fuel pump finally gone out after having it over 16 years). My husband's '97 F150 still going strong, even with a part that needs to be fixed, still drivable, and much easier to work on than GM! Also, can't get aftermarket parts to work on the Blazer, never a problem with my Fords.
  • dgarrett13dgarrett13 Member Posts: 13
    Ignition coil and/or module?
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    edited November 2011
    Be careful of AC Delco parts too. After the bankruptcy, GM spun off the AC Delco Parts Division and now those parts are made by the lowest bidder. You can still buy AC Delco parts made by GM but the suppl;y is running out. I will never buy AC delco spark plugs anymore because they are made off-shore and you can see the poor quality cvompared to the GM versions. I now use Denso (Japan) platinum spark plugs which I will not have to change for 80,000 miles. However, I will change them at 10,000 miles just to monitor how well my Chevy 4.3L V6 engine is running. Denso TT Platinum spark plugs are cheaper than AC Delco Rapid Fire platinum spark plugs but the quality is obviously ten times better. For example, NGK (Japan) makes the expensive AC Delco Iridium spark plugs that are used in the 2011 ZR6, 550 HP Corvettes.
  • alanperryalanperry Member Posts: 1
    Thanks,

    That's the one part that I had discounted because it didn't seem to make a difference when the AC engaged. I'll try that next,
  • aphillips47023aphillips47023 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Blazer. For the past few months it would occasionally act like it was going to shut itself off, but only when I was sitting still, like in traffic. This wouldn't always happen and only once or twice did it act like it wouldn't start (almost like the battery was dead), and I'd keep trying to crank it, and eventually it would go. The other day I was in bad traffic and I was sitting still for several minutes at a time. The car kept turning itself off (but interior and exterior lights would work, along with gauges) and I would have to re-crank it. After having to do this four or five times it sounded like it was getting weaker; so I pulled over to the side of the road and had someone come get me. A few hours later I went back to my car and was able to start it. I made it back home but I had to consistently keep my foot on the gas. As long as I was pushing the accelerator, it acted fine. A few people said some things about fuel filters but I know nothing about cars so it all sounds like a foreign language to me. I didn't try to start my car at all today until about an hour ago. I cranked it up and let it run in park to see how long it would take before shutting off. It maintained for about ten minutes or so, until it started shaking lightly (like it was going to shut off again). When it did this the car made a sound that sounded very similar to the way a schoolbus sounds when it's in park. I'm afraid to drive it and have no idea at all of what to do with it or how to fix it. Please Help!
  • s10junkowners10junkowner Member Posts: 10
    I posted earlier, and replied to a few posts. What you are going through, is exactly what I did! EXACTLY!
    After the stall at first, I would try to start it up, and boom, it started as if there was no problem.
    It all happens about 10 to 15 minutes after the first start.
    Do not trust it anymore!
    I took mine out of town, it stalled and would not start back up.
    I had it towed from sedona to phoenix. Rental car, place to stay for the night. Equally $800.00!
    Your fuel pump is on it's way out!
    Plan on spending about $600.00 for it to be fixed.
    Give or take 1 hundred.
    The pump alone will cost you about $400.00. Mine is the 2 door 4x4 ZR2.
    There are several different ones, GM and Chevy had to make things harder.
    Don't listen to what shops and stores tell you!
    They'll say it's the coil, the distributor, spark plugs, ignition control module. BS! I changed out all of those and a few others.
    It's the fuel pump.
    Do Not Buy the cheap brands for under 100 bucks!
    I did that, it lasted about 8 months, and I'm back to square one!
    Mine gets fixed on the 1st of the new year, from sitting for over 6 months!
    Do not let checkers, autozone or others like that talk you into buying the other things.
    If you're going to get one thing from them, rent the fuel pressure guage.
    You get your money back when you take it back.
    It's an easy procedure to do! ANYBODY can do it!
    Also, when mine stalled out over 20 times! It gave NO trouble codes!
    It even stalled at autozone in front of the guy. He checked for codes...NOTHING!
    Trust me, dude! It's the fuel pump! And it's inside of the gas tank. The brilliant minds at GM made everything hard to fix on it.
    Also, don't let them tell you it's a sensor.
    Just have them scan it for trouble codes. If nothing shows up? Then it can't be a sensor! The sensors talk to the computer, the computer then shows a code.
    Remember that!
    Also, don't let them tell you it's the crank sensor.
    My 1st original pump didn't even make it to 120,000 miles!
    What's your mileage?
  • aphillips47023aphillips47023 Member Posts: 2
    mileage is around 210,000
  • cgrutz1cgrutz1 Member Posts: 1
    Since it's gotten cold out (below 40) my blazer won't start on the first try after turning the ignition for 2 seconds (as long as it would take to normally start), but trying the 2nd time it starts okay. If I hold the key for much longer than 2 seconds it starts chugging but won't start and if I try a second time it chugs faster and will eventually start. It's got about 160k miles, I got a tune up 2 years, 10k miles ago, and that fixed the problem once before. Coolant temperature sensor (new) has recently been put in and a mass airflow sensor (from junkyard) has also been put in.
  • elwellnvelwellnv Member Posts: 1
    Hey All,
    I have a 2002 Chevy blazer with about 215,000 miles on it. My fuel pump gave out ( I've had no other problems with my blazer before this, it ran just beautifully) recently and I had it replaced. After getting it back from my mechanic I noticed I was getting half of the gas mileage I used to get. I took it back and my mechanic changed my spark plugs. I picked up my car and drove it home. The next time I went to start my car it would not start. I had it towed to the firestone down the street, and had to change my Dist cap and rotary back. My car started up just fine, strong as ever. I'm still getting this horrible gas mileage, any ideas on what it could possibly be?
  • badgerfanzbadgerfanz Member Posts: 2
    I have 2003 Chevy Blazer with 56,000 miles on it. When I start it to run an errand and drive it for less than a half hour - run in and come out after 20-30 minutes it will not kick in. Have to wait a few minutes and give it a few tries and finally starts. Replaced the fuel pump over a year and a half ago. The mechanic cannot figure this out. This has been in the shop 3 times for this issues.

    Note: This only happens in the Winter when the temp is 32 degrees or below. Once the weather warms up no issues...........I can count on this starting every December for the past 3 years!
    :mad:
  • dgarrett13dgarrett13 Member Posts: 13
    Sounds like a bad connection or wire that has moisture freezing on it (on a bad spot or bad/loose connection and the freezing moisture expands causing a loss of connection) and messing up your connection until the moisture unfreezes which allows for connection again.
  • s10junkowners10junkowner Member Posts: 10
    At that many miles, I'd have to tell you to start saving up for a down payment. I'm not being a smart alec, I just don't know too many GM's, Fords or dodge that are worth anything afte 200k miles.
    Some people might have these that made it past 200k, like you, but believe me, it's an oddity.
    But do look into a Toyota for a small 4 or 6 cylinder.
    Ford F-250 or 350 for a full size truck.
    Research and see for yourself how many toyota's are reaching 300k at 400k miles.
    A small for, GM or dodge reaching 300k? Just doesn't happen.
  • trollman1trollman1 Member Posts: 1
    the check engine light is on and its coming up its the electronic stall converter,but didnt want to rip the tranny out if there is something else triggering the light,any ideas?????
  • bumbie125bumbie125 Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever find a solution for this? Because my 2001 Jimmy is having similar problems
  • cspeakscspeaks Member Posts: 3
    No had some work done and had fuel filter replaced. Runs better, for now. The real test is hot weather, that is when the stalling was at its worst.
  • badgerfanzbadgerfanz Member Posts: 2
    I took my 2003 Chevy Blazer to the dealer 3 times the last time they kept it for a week and my result THEY HAD NO CLUE.......................NICE!
  • s10junkowners10junkowner Member Posts: 10
    edited January 2012
    Fuel Pump.
    I was told by an authorized dealer, the fuel pump doesn't send codes.
    Now remember this part:
    I went to all the parts sellers, Checker, Autozone, and none of them knew this. They just kept saying, "Sounds like blah blah blah...." And of course, I bought about 400 bucks worth of parts. Some even said the engine crank sensor. If it was the engine crack sensor, that would send a code. So don't let them [non-permissible content removed] you. Take it straight to a dealer.
    Mine was fixed, it was the fuel pump and now I'm back in business.

    Also another tip. I had them put in the exact brand name fuel pump.
    Best Part: LifeTime Warranty, and guaranteed because a profesional authorized shop installed it.
    If it ever goes out on me again, I get a new one FOR FREE!!!

    My Blazer 4.3 ZR2 would start fine, then after about 10 minutes, begin to sputter or just cut out completely.
    It finally died. After 6 months of sitting in the driveway, I threw in a new battery, it cranked and started enough for me to move it.
    I let it idle, then it died, never to start again.
    The dealer sent a tow truck, they took it, I got it back with a new fuel pump and I'm back in business!

    Don't waste your time on parts store. Have a dealer pick it up and fix it.
    But also have about a grand for this. The pump on my 2002 ZR2 was $420.00.
    I hope this helps!
  • chumdrexchumdrex Member Posts: 3
    It was my fuel pump. Had it installed at the dealer with original part and lifetime warranty. It's been running fine ever since.
  • jyoung4478jyoung4478 Member Posts: 3
    Ys theres a sencer at throtle opening I unplugged counted to 10 and plugged it in again, I guess it resets the system.
  • sgilbert2814sgilbert2814 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1995 chevy blazer 4wd, 4.3. when i start driving, its when i hit the gas it sounds like it wants to stop. like there isnt enough fuel getting to it. i took it to a mechanic and he checked the code, it was egr valve, he took it apart, cleaned it, put it back and cleared the code. said it would take 2 days til it ran smooth again. 3 days ago. still doing it, now flashing check engine soon multiple times, sounds like it is chugging......im thinking fuel pump or filter. please, any help or ideas
  • eddiehaskileddiehaskil Member Posts: 2
    Remember Ford did not have to take the bailout. But Government motors and doop did. Lol
    The recent world reports on the most reliable cars and trucks is Ford. yes they had their moments of trouble, but, all the manufacturers in america did then. But now Ford is a real world contender and they always had the best truck. So yes your decision to buy a ford next time is a wise one. Chevy trucks are no more than glorified cars anyway.
  • eddiehaskileddiehaskil Member Posts: 2
    hey, remember one thing, unless you do need to haul in the bed 4000 plus pounds or more, you only need a ford f 150, the 2012 model payload capacity from ther ford website is 3060lbs. that is more than the 2500 hd chevy. so remember the f-150m is the same as the 2500 chevy and the 3500 dodge.
  • conasnipesconasnipes Member Posts: 4
    Not to be rude, But General Motors has had its issues, But alot of the farms i've been to or worked on all have GM work trucks with over 400k on them, I rarely hear of fords with more then 250 before they completely run dry. I personally own a 96 Jimmy and it has 325 000 on it. The only problem is the fuel pump (I was not told by a shop mechanic, My father trains Dealership mechanics in Saskatchewan) So for anyone reading this, Chevy and GMC are some of the most reliable and dependable vehicles. Save for some engineering issues.
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    The "spider" fuel distribution assembly is a sore spot on the 1992-1995 4.3L engines with CPI (Central Port Injection). GM changed the design in 1996 to SCPI (Sequential Central Port Injection)

    The problem with the 1992 - 1995 CPI system found on the 4.3L "W" engines can be traced to a defective fuel pressure regulator. The fuel pressure regulator on the CPI system could not be serviced separately from the fuel distribution "spider" assembly. Dorman Products recognized the problem and introduced a fuel pressure regulator that could be serviced separately from the fuel distribution assembly (spider). Dorman #55162 is a fuel pressure regulator for the 1992-1995 CPI found on the VIN "W" engines . The Dorman 55162 fuel pressure regulator cost $35 but the labor cost will be the same as it would be if you replaced the entire CPI fuel distribution assembly (spider). Replacing the fuel pressure regulator on the CPI will save about $250 compared to replacing the entire fuel distribution assembly.
  • chevyguy112233chevyguy112233 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem, not sure if this will help but mine was caused by a cracked spark plug.. like you said it sounded like it was gona die and kinda sputtered.. not sure if that is it but i would check the spark plugs
  • s10troubles10trouble Member Posts: 2
    could this be the oil pressure unit at the top back of the engine.. i read it will get old and kill the power or something to the fuel pump...
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    Just one ignition cable can cause the ICM (Ignition Contriol Module) to deliver the wrong firing sequence or even stop working until the cable is removed from the source of the ground. For example my friend replaced the spark plugs on my S10 Blazer and did not put the ignition cables properly in the wire looms. One of the cables lay against the hot exhaust manifold and burned through the insulation. When the conductors grounded against the exhaust manifold, it caused the ICM to stop working intermittently but when the wind blew the ignition cable off the manifold, the engine started running properly again. I found the bad cable and put all the cable through the wire looms and the engine never misses a beat. I have since replaced the ignition cables with the correct AC Delco ignition cable kit. If you have lost any of the oroginal wire looms, a new wire loom kit is available. AC Delco 8073 (GM 12073948) for $4.50. Dorman also has the same looms in various assortments of 2, 3 and 4 wire looms under part numbers 40283, 40284, 40286, 40281, 40288, 40289, 40291, etc. If Dorman went to the trouble to manufacture that many different GM wire looms / holders, they must be important parts.


    It is important to make sure the ignition cables are in the wire looms and are in good condition. Ignition cables should be replaced at 30,000 mile intervals along with the distributor cap and rotor. GM sold individual ignition cables for customers who found one or two damaged cables. However, GM stopped that practice and now GM only sells complete ignition cable sets, just like the all the aftermarket suppliers.
  • dgarrett13dgarrett13 Member Posts: 13
    Have had problems with this blazer since August. I have had it for 9 years and no problem until August 2011. Would go dead when slowing down. Have changed spark plugs and wires, rotor and cap, cam position sensor, thermostat, fuel filter, idle air control, ignition coil, and just last month it would go dead and ses light would flash. Had it towed and they changed the ignition control module. Ran great for about 1 1/2 months. Saturday night drove it and noticed it hesitating during acceleration. It stopped doing that and I got to the store. Got back in 15 minutes later and it started great and ran great. Did not drive it Sunday. Monday morning it would not start. It seemed to try after a couple of tries and just sputtered out. Checked fuel pressure. 60 psi with key on and pump priming. When pump cut off, dropped to 55 psi immediately. So, I have no idea what could be wrong now.
  • dgarrett13dgarrett13 Member Posts: 13
    Well, while waiting for my husband to get home so we could check the pressure again and see where it is 10 minutes after priming, I decided to try to see if it would start. IT STARTED RIGHT UP!! What's up with that. Oh, I should have mentioned, I was rear ended about 1 month ago. No apparent damage. Wonder if that tripped something. I am baffled!
  • s10man1s10man1 Member Posts: 1
    take a rubber hammer and hit the gas tank if it starts to run better the fuel pump screen is plugged or pump is going bad need 54 lbs of preshure min 60 ok check fuel preshure 10 to 35 is bad
  • cspeakscspeaks Member Posts: 3
    I have recently had the fuel Filter replaced and it runs just fine now.
  • olblaze99olblaze99 Member Posts: 1
    I just had my 99 blazer stall out and would not start at all. Still had power just wouldnt turn over. I ran a scan for fun and it came up the crankshaft position sensor. Just something to check out, hope it helps.
  • jclknnkyjclknnky Member Posts: 3
    check the inline fuse locate in the alternator wire that runs under the battery tray, mine was doing the same thing, and i replaced everything i could think of , and it was the fuse....a lot of money spent for a $2.00 inline fuse...lol...
  • rookieatthisrookieatthis Member Posts: 3
    Drove it home on a Friday night everything was fine. Left the house Sunday afternoon and it died just down the street and would not restart. Turns over just fine. 2 hours later went out to tinker with it and it started right up and idled but then died a few seconds later. Once I started it again and placed my foot on the gas it spits n sputters very rough and dies. In the last year I have replaced the alternator, battery, mass airflow sensor, and fuel filter. The battery died and when we jumped it today it sounded completely normal until I attempted to give it gas and it dd the same thing. So I'm pretty sure I can rule out the battery and the battery gauge sits at 14 when it does idle so the alternator should be good as well. When I am under the hood and it dies there is a foul smell that I have noticed for just a few seconds and about 3 to 4 quick clicks come from around the intake.

    So I'm really not sure where to start looking for the problem. Tools and $$$ are limited right now so any help pinpointing the issue would be greatly appreciated.
  • rookieatthisrookieatthis Member Posts: 3
    Changed fuel pump still same thing. Getting plenty of fuel it just won't start and if it does start it only idles for up to 10 seconds. Any acceleration and it sputters and makes the whole vehicle shake. Checking for spark at each plug now. Any help much needed.
  • chadb2chadb2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 blazer with the 4.3 vortec v6 sometimes it starts great other times about once daily it fires then shuts off I keep trying and after about 20mins it starts and runs fine any help would b appreciated
  • rookieatthisrookieatthis Member Posts: 3
    Not sure if you have been driving yours or not. Mine died outside the driveway and would start and die or no start at all. Ended up the coil wire was rotted under the plastic sheath. Try it while its dark to see if there is any spark jumping.
  • babyonthewaybabyontheway Member Posts: 1
    HI, i have a 1998 chevrolet blazer 4.3L vortec V6. It was running fine at first. But it started the run very rough and shakes like crazy. the temperature gauge doesnt work even after installing a new temperature sensor. it does this everyday. sometimes on very short drives like at lunch it will drive fine on the way to the store and then drive like crap on the way back. the temp gauge moves from cold to hot and back to cold when ever it is starting the spit and sputter. it stalls at traffic lights and is a pain to get it started again.. i have to pump the accelerator to get it started when ever it stalls. when ever the spitting and sputtering problems occur when im driving it stops running like crap when i floor it. but stills runs like [non-permissible content removed] after. i dont have much $$$ and with a baby on the way i need to get this fixed. help very much needed. thank you.
  • derickfunkderickfunk Member Posts: 2
    did you ever figure this problem out?
  • ginintnginintn Member Posts: 1
    Have a 1994 s10 blazer. Have replaced fuel pump and filter in tank, inline fuel filter, throttle position sensor, rotator button and cap, iginition module in distributor. Still would idle all day long but when you started to drive it it would get hot then stop. we changed the catalic convertor started running great. thaT night it stopped again starting missing bad. fixed some vacumn line links still didnt fix it ..it is not coil we tried that.... any other suggestions?????
  • iamthoriamthor Member Posts: 2
    zedd,
    did you every find a fix to your truck? I know it's a 4 year old post, but I have the exact same issue and done the exact same thing...I even took off the whole exhaust system to eliminate plugged CAT...UGH! I'm at my wits end too. ANY help would be greatly appreciated.
    Thank you
    Don
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles