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Comments
Wouldn't it make a lot of sense to bring back the Disco II? Apparently in its last iteration ('04) they finally got a lot of things right with it. They could decontent it by removing the leather and NAV etc, have only one sun roof, offer as a no cost option a neat 5 speed stick shift,. and market it to compete with Forerunner/Pathfinder/Xtera/Explorer etc. The target out the door price would be under 30K (including some options.).
Configured this way it would sell big time. And bring a younger, more entry level person into the LR "Centre". Remember, you saw it first on Edmunds.
Can we say 10 miles to the gallon! I mean driving 10 miles costs $3! In the current realities I cannot see anyone buying a truck like this unless they were a serious offroader. Of course I knew the mileage was terrible when I bought it, and at the time it was ok. If I had any idea that gas would be over $3 a gallon, I never would have bought it.
I won't get rid of it, I only have 6500 miles on it after a year, and the depreciation is so huge it would not be cost effective. But I cannot see how they could bring back such a vehicle. It is a great idea through, becasue every day I drive it I cannot believe how well it drives given the primitive undercarriage. It is the best, most reliable vehicle I have ever owned (and I have owned an Infiniti, Toyota, Honda and a Subaru, not to mention two Found On Road Deads).
1st) The 2004 in question has the heated seat buttons but no heated windshield button on the dash. I thought the cold weather package included both (similar to my 99 DII).
2) Also, this 2004 DII HSE does not have the navigation/radio, so does that mean it has the downgraded (less watts) SE Harmon Kardon radio?
3) My current DII has the rear air suspension and a Safety Devices Roof Rack. I pull a 2004 Fleetwood Hemlock trailer and really load the rack and back area when camping and towing, so the rear air has been great in keeping the DII level when loaded. If I decided to get a 2004 SE without rear air, will I being driving around with the rear sag while pulling a trailer and loaded down. I do not know how heavy duty the stock rear springs are on a 2004 DII?
4) I guess I was wrong but I thought Navigation/Radio was standard on the 2004 HSE...I guess I was wrong or the HSE DII I am looking at was an early build for 2004 and they had not gotting the new Nav/Radios yet?
Any help or feeback on my questions woud be greatly appreciated
Thank you
I'm guessing alternator or voltage regulator, but TWO in 100K miles? Is the voltage regulator internal to the alternator? What about other things like loose connections, bad battery, etc?
Thanks for any help, I would rather not just drop it off at the dealer for my non-scheduled $2000 experience.
-D
Good luck!
I get 16.5 - 17.0 on the interstate and 14.5 when I drive 100% in town. I have gotten as high as 18.2 when I was driving from Nashville through AL on the Natchez Trace parkway on a cool day. It's not good mileage, but it's definitely worth it when a Tenn. Titan in a $65,000 Escalade tells me that he really like my truck. And, when I drive my rig to Marios in Nashville, the valets park the Disco up front and park the generic 3-series Beemers and c-class Benzes in the weeds.
If anything, dude, you need to drive that machine MORE. Your baby wants miles!
Vandy
I have never driven it offroad. I would love to someday.
To fix the problem, you are looking at replacing the ECU SLABS, speed sensors, hubs, abd ABS sensors.
I will be filing a complaint with BBS Auto Line, If I get anywhere I will post resolution.
1 – All DII’s came with front seats pre-wired for heat so all you needed to do was buy the switches and faceplate for the center console and you were good to go with heated seats without the expensive heated windshield. That is likely what was done to the vehicle you are looking at.
2 – I have a ’03 HSE and it came standard with HK Nav. That was supposed to carry over to the ‘04’s.
3 – If you do not get an HSE with SLS, you will sag. I did a lot of towing with my previous ’96 DI and you can’t help but sag. Get the HSE with SLS or you will not be happy since you are used to it now.
4 – See 2.
Good luck
discofun
Thanks.
Greg
I see that there are two switches on the brake pedal. I have removed and tested the combinition electric/vacuum switch. It seems to be working OK. Switch open/closes and vacuum open/closes, although there is no vacuum on the line coming down from the dash. Vehicle is in park. I see there is another switch on the pedal (Brake lights?) , but I have not removed it yet to test.
Can anyone tell me the interaction between the two switches & the vacuum switch on the pedal with the interlock with the shifter. I am unsure if the shifter has failed in the shifter column (because it was stiff prior) or one of the interlock switches on the pedal has failed.
Any insight would be appreciated.
Thanks.
OK, I checked the forum and see several people have had similar problems, however the fixes are not always posted. My brake lights work, the shifter was clicking when the button was pushed, but now is not (probably from me pulling on it too hard). Still not sure if I have an interlock issue with the pedal swithches, or some type of failure in the shift console. Again, any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
I recently noticed a fluid leak and had it diagnosed as the transfer case (bad seal). Now understand this was at Jiffy Lube, so any and all opinions are welcome. Looked to me (from under the car at Jiffy Lube) that it is a bad gasket. I'm no Mr. Goodwrench but it that something I could change? Looked to be right there with all bolts exposed? The Transfer case was indeed low (took 8 pumps to fill?) and I am still driving it. I have a local import repair shop that does work on LR's. i just want to know a little about what I'm in for before calling.
2001 Disco II with 79k miles
Thanks (again!)
I had my 04 Disco.'s front light buld changed 2 months ago and the procedures are pretty simple. I had it done myself in a bit over 20 minutes...
All the necessary procedures are listed in the owner manual clearly.
- Patrick
Thanks again for your information. Looking at LR3's now!I really wanted a Disco 2004 HSE7, but they are still wanting a decent amount of change for them and when you combine the "atomic bomb" depreciation, I have moved to the LR3..looking at least.
Hope this helps.
does anyone out there have any idea what this can be? we will be seeing the dealer very soon.
The click and feeling in the shift lever is the safety feature that releases the shift lever when you depress the brake pedal. This ensures the vehicle is secure when shifting out of park. Nothing sounds wrong with what you are seeing on this issue.
The check engine light can be related to emissions issues resulting from a variety of items depending on year (valves, recall issue, sensors, etc.) probably not a huge issue but you should drop the dough to have the codes read.
that same morning the weather was very cold. i moved the car out of the garage and came into the house to tell my husband about the brake/shift thing and when he went out to look at it, we had a nice crack on the windshield as well!
we don't see a rock mark where the crack is. its from the very top of the windshield by the rearview mirror and runs down and sideways toward the driver about 5 inches.
we take care of rock damage to the windsheilds of all our cars right away, so this was a big surprise to us.
well, we will deal with that too, thank you.
we'll let you know what happens at the dealer$$$$$$$$
The shift click was probably accentuated by the cold.
That’s interesting about your windshield crack. I had a loaner ’04 Disco from the dealer the other day and it had a crack originating in the same location but ran down and then towards the passenger side and was about 18” long. I have read elsewhere in these threads about unexplained windshield cracks so maybe there is some predictable underlying fault here. I’m in Dallas so I can’t claim really cold weather as the cause ;-)
Finally narrowed down the ABS modulator, where I got three quotes from two dealers (the first was for US$1500, the second at the same dealer with a different service advisor was for US$3000!, the third from a different dealer was for US$1700). I had the modulator replaced and have had no problems for a year.
Used ABS modulators are between US$700-900 plus labor, so my advise is to check around for best price and have it done at the dealer.
I have the same problem as you. May I ask how you got it resolved?
Thank you
I have my eye on a set of Michelin XPC 4x4's, which are $224 each at Costco. Ouch! More than I would like to spend. Also looking at Yokohama Geolanders - G52. They are a bit less expensive.
I have the SE with 18 inch wheels. Just about anything I buy will have to be ordered, as the 255/55 HR 18 size does not seem to be a stock item in tire stores around here.
Does anyone have experience with either of these tires? Or, with other tires that have performed well? I need something that is good in the snow, good off road and good towing a 4,000 lb. trailer. I also do a lot of long distance highway driving, both with and without the trailer. I guess I am looking for the everything tire, and I know that does not exist. Any ideas? Thanks for your help.
For the record, we are averaging 15.5 mpg over the 32K miles, (with some traier towing) and virtually no breakdowns or problems save for a burnt out lightbulb and a service engine soon warning light that was fixed quickly by Landrover Denver East quickly under warranty. One tough truck.
Thanks.
Pete.
What could be causing this? When I check it out I don't see anything that could be causing a noise.
Any ideas.
Unfortunately, a set of four, mounted and balanced, was running close to or above $900. I then found a Cooper tire on the internet that sounded like it might work. It is the P255/55r18 Discover HT Plus. Just a plain blackwall light truck tire. A set of four at the local tire store cost $619, mounted and balanced, out the door. I don't buy the "tire insurance," which would have been an additional $80.
I only have 27 miles on the tires as of this evening, but they seem, at least to my imagination, to ride a bit smoother and quieter than the original equipment Goodyear Wranglers, which lasted just about 32K miles. I guess that only time will tell. Normally, I am very partial to Michelin tires for any car, but I just choked at the price, even at Costco. Thanks again.
Pete.
Thanks for the pointers on Blizzaks. I have Blizzaks on my other car, which is a 1994 BMW 325is coupe. Before I got the Blizzaks I would not dream of taking it out of the garage in any kind of snow. The Blizzaks do wonders, and I don't hesitate to take it out in snow up to about 6 inches deep. The best thing about the Blizzaks is how well they stop in the snow. My son also has them on his Jeep Cherokee.
For the Disco I wanted an all-season tire, which is one reason why I did not go with the Blizzaks. The other reason would have been price. I am sure that a set for 18" wheels would have cost a bundle, and then I would still have to buy summer tires anyway.
The Coopers, by the way, have been good so far. Compared to the original equipment Goodyears, they are quieter, smoother, and track straighter. I ran them in light snow over the weekend. They seemed glued to the road, but there was not really enough to "test" them.
Thanks again.
Pete.