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Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II

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Comments

  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Member Posts: 1,150
    We had a lot of rain today on Block Island so to take my mind off it while I jogged, I came up with an idea for LR. Yes, LR sales are way up and they are now really marketing and selling "luxury cars" more than SUVs. Freelander is on its way out and no one is going to miss it. It lacked power, presence, and pizazz.

    Wouldn't it make a lot of sense to bring back the Disco II? Apparently in its last iteration ('04) they finally got a lot of things right with it. They could decontent it by removing the leather and NAV etc, have only one sun roof, offer as a no cost option a neat 5 speed stick shift,. and market it to compete with Forerunner/Pathfinder/Xtera/Explorer etc. The target out the door price would be under 30K (including some options.).

    Configured this way it would sell big time. And bring a younger, more entry level person into the LR "Centre". Remember, you saw it first on Edmunds.
  • peeetepeeete Member Posts: 136
    I have an 04 Disco and love it. It is a great idea in theory, but it has one little problem

    Can we say 10 miles to the gallon! I mean driving 10 miles costs $3! In the current realities I cannot see anyone buying a truck like this unless they were a serious offroader. Of course I knew the mileage was terrible when I bought it, and at the time it was ok. If I had any idea that gas would be over $3 a gallon, I never would have bought it.

    I won't get rid of it, I only have 6500 miles on it after a year, and the depreciation is so huge it would not be cost effective. But I cannot see how they could bring back such a vehicle. It is a great idea through, becasue every day I drive it I cannot believe how well it drives given the primitive undercarriage. It is the best, most reliable vehicle I have ever owned (and I have owned an Infiniti, Toyota, Honda and a Subaru, not to mention two Found On Road Deads).
  • abraxas1abraxas1 Member Posts: 7
    They aren't getting rid of the Freelander. They have moved it to the FORD Escape platform for 2007. This means it will be slightly larger and have AWD. Hopefully the Escape Fuel efficiency will also come with the new '07.
  • pbroverpbrover Member Posts: 43
    :confuse: I currently own a 99 DII -7 seats with rear air suspension and 125,000 miles on the odometer. It has been a great adventure rig for my family of 5. I currently am looking into purchasing a 2004 HSE7 DII but I have some questions about the 2004 HSE DII I am looking at:

    1st) The 2004 in question has the heated seat buttons but no heated windshield button on the dash. I thought the cold weather package included both (similar to my 99 DII).

    2) Also, this 2004 DII HSE does not have the navigation/radio, so does that mean it has the downgraded (less watts) SE Harmon Kardon radio?

    3) My current DII has the rear air suspension and a Safety Devices Roof Rack. I pull a 2004 Fleetwood Hemlock trailer and really load the rack and back area when camping and towing, so the rear air has been great in keeping the DII level when loaded. If I decided to get a 2004 SE without rear air, will I being driving around with the rear sag while pulling a trailer and loaded down. I do not know how heavy duty the stock rear springs are on a 2004 DII?

    4) I guess I was wrong but I thought Navigation/Radio was standard on the 2004 HSE...I guess I was wrong or the HSE DII I am looking at was an early build for 2004 and they had not gotting the new Nav/Radios yet?

    Any help or feeback on my questions woud be greatly appreciated :)

    Thank you
  • dhaselhorstdhaselhorst Member Posts: 2
    I have a '96 Discovery with about 106K miles. My headlights, and all other electronics, are starting to pulse. Sometimes the pulsing can be interuped by adding a load to the system, such as turning on the AC. This was happening a couple of years ago, and the dealer fixed it under extended warranty, so I'm not sure what the fix was. Just looked it up. Dealer replace a overhead headlight switch. Lights still flashed. They then replaced the alternator. Both repairs at 80,000 miles.

    I'm guessing alternator or voltage regulator, but TWO in 100K miles? Is the voltage regulator internal to the alternator? What about other things like loose connections, bad battery, etc?

    Thanks for any help, I would rather not just drop it off at the dealer for my non-scheduled $2000 experience.

    -D
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Look back through these messages for posts about cleaning the fuse block that lives beneath the hood ("bonnet"). It's on the passenger side, midpoint on the engine. It's exposed to the elements and it's the point where all the electrical systems are distributed from the alternator. Poor connections there will affect EVERTHING in your truck. That's why computers have power conditioners. With nasty spikey power (originating at the corroded fuse block) all downstream systems can suffer.

    Good luck!
  • whitecrowwhitecrow Member Posts: 1
    I'm buying a Disco 2 in the next couple of weeks. I know it's a V8, but can it take diesel gasoline?
  • discomandiscoman Member Posts: 110
    The pulsing headlights are a dead giveaway that you need a new alternator. Shouldn't be a $2K experience. A new one costs around $1,000, and a rebuilt one $600 installed at a dealer. IF you go to a parts distributor like roverconection.com, it may even be less for the parts, and if you are mechanically inclined you can do the work yourself. Or find a mechanic that can install it in about 2 hours. Yes, the voltage regulator is an integral part of the alternator. Make sure you also get a new alternator cable $17 at the dealer, and replace it at the same time. the insulation gets brittle over time and can short to other metal stuff under the hood.
  • vandy2004vandy2004 Member Posts: 8
    My 04 Disco gets bad mileage, but the worst I ever got was 12 mpg when I was driving around in the Smoky Mountains on "kiss yer cousin" weekend. See your LR dealer ASAP - your engine control computer needs to be reset.

    I get 16.5 - 17.0 on the interstate and 14.5 when I drive 100% in town. I have gotten as high as 18.2 when I was driving from Nashville through AL on the Natchez Trace parkway on a cool day. It's not good mileage, but it's definitely worth it when a Tenn. Titan in a $65,000 Escalade tells me that he really like my truck. And, when I drive my rig to Marios in Nashville, the valets park the Disco up front and park the generic 3-series Beemers and c-class Benzes in the weeds.

    If anything, dude, you need to drive that machine MORE. Your baby wants miles!

    Vandy
  • peeetepeeete Member Posts: 136
    Interesting. I get better mileage than you on the highway...16 to 19 mpg. Around town it is a consistent 10. The dealer also told me to drive it more on the highway. Easier said then done when you work 7 days a week!

    I have never driven it offroad. I would love to someday.
  • jeremy36jeremy36 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Disco with about 35000 miles. It runs great and I have had no problems with it. The only thing that has been happening for about the last few months is that when I am sitting with the engine running idle for a couple minutes I start to smell what smells like anti freeze. The car runs fine and it has no problem with over heating or has no problem with heating up. I see no leaks or anything like that . Has anybody had this problem and if so let me know what was wrong with your Disco. Thanks :confuse:
  • lalmeidalalmeida Member Posts: 2
    I had the same promlem with my 2001 Disco at 56,000 miles. My source of the smell was a very small leak with the raditor. It was so small that it never dripped on the floor, but on inspection, you could see the leak had been occuring for some time. There is also a TSB on a potential leak on one of the small coolant hoses near the manifold. I think the TSB said to replace the o-rings.
  • lalmeidalalmeida Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Disco II with 77,000. My ABS, HDC and TC lights all went on at the same time. Dealer says the ECU SLABS unit is defective and needs to be replaced. I keep seeing so-called recalls on this problem, but when I called Land Rover North America, they said no such recall exist.

    To fix the problem, you are looking at replacing the ECU SLABS, speed sensors, hubs, abd ABS sensors.

    I will be filing a complaint with BBS Auto Line, If I get anywhere I will post resolution.
  • fjordfjord Member Posts: 1
    I am going to check out a 2002 Land Rover Discovery tomorrow. I mainly drive within town and highway miles. I would appreciate anyone's feedback as to the amount of leg room and second seat space in this vehicle. Thank you!
  • discofundiscofun Member Posts: 26
    pbrover

    1 – All DII’s came with front seats pre-wired for heat so all you needed to do was buy the switches and faceplate for the center console and you were good to go with heated seats without the expensive heated windshield. That is likely what was done to the vehicle you are looking at.

    2 – I have a ’03 HSE and it came standard with HK Nav. That was supposed to carry over to the ‘04’s.

    3 – If you do not get an HSE with SLS, you will sag. I did a lot of towing with my previous ’96 DI and you can’t help but sag. Get the HSE with SLS or you will not be happy since you are used to it now.

    4 – See 2.

    Good luck
    discofun
  • jeremy36jeremy36 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks. How and what did you do to fix the problem??????? How much did it cost and did you bring it too a LR dealer???
  • discomandiscoman Member Posts: 110
    Bob, Or anyone else. I am having some trouble. My 96 with 120K is running pretty rough. It started gradually at first, but now it really feels like it's going to tear itself apart. some times it doesn't do it, but a lot of the time it fels like it's runniong on 7 cylinders instead of 8. But.... If you step on the gas and it downshifts, it will accelerate like normal. It's when the RPM's drop below 2500 it really starts to shake. Has anyone seen this problem before. I already changed the spark plugs and used a bottle of fuel injector cleaner. ANy ideas? :sick:
  • turbo44turbo44 Member Posts: 4
    i have a 00 II with 74,000 miles, and when i drive to work in the mornings (about 15-30 degrees F.) neither blinker works until the truck is completely warmed up. is this normal? the truck is new to me, so it's my first winter with it. would appreciate any ideas.
  • gppgpp Member Posts: 13
    Front driver side light bulb burnt out on my 04 disco. I'm told this is a standard halogen 7 12 v 55 w bulb. Just a quick sanity check: is this a simple change or is there a trick with these large fishbowl front headlights?

    Thanks.

    Greg
  • dhaselhorstdhaselhorst Member Posts: 2
    The members of this forum have been very helpful in the past. Maybe you can help with this one. My '96 Disco won't shift out of park. The sunroof was leaking slightly and some water dripped into the shift linkage. The shifter was somewhat stiff, but still shifted. Last weekend, it shifted into park and then that was it.

    I see that there are two switches on the brake pedal. I have removed and tested the combinition electric/vacuum switch. It seems to be working OK. Switch open/closes and vacuum open/closes, although there is no vacuum on the line coming down from the dash. Vehicle is in park. I see there is another switch on the pedal (Brake lights?) , but I have not removed it yet to test.

    Can anyone tell me the interaction between the two switches & the vacuum switch on the pedal with the interlock with the shifter. I am unsure if the shifter has failed in the shifter column (because it was stiff prior) or one of the interlock switches on the pedal has failed.

    Any insight would be appreciated.

    Thanks.

    OK, I checked the forum and see several people have had similar problems, however the fixes are not always posted. My brake lights work, the shifter was clicking when the button was pushed, but now is not (probably from me pulling on it too hard). Still not sure if I have an interlock issue with the pedal swithches, or some type of failure in the shift console. Again, any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks.
  • above45thabove45th Member Posts: 4
    Good day All!

    I recently noticed a fluid leak and had it diagnosed as the transfer case (bad seal). Now understand this was at Jiffy Lube, so any and all opinions are welcome. Looked to me (from under the car at Jiffy Lube) that it is a bad gasket. I'm no Mr. Goodwrench but it that something I could change? Looked to be right there with all bolts exposed? The Transfer case was indeed low (took 8 pumps to fill?) and I am still driving it. I have a local import repair shop that does work on LR's. i just want to know a little about what I'm in for before calling.

    2001 Disco II with 79k miles

    Thanks (again!)
  • phill27phill27 Member Posts: 31
    I am needing new shocks. I have looked into KYB, OME and Bilsteins. Which do you recommend and why? I drive a stock 2000 DII and do mostly around town driving. I have and will go offroading several (3-5) times a year.
  • nt2051nt2051 Member Posts: 1
    Hi.

    I had my 04 Disco.'s front light buld changed 2 months ago and the procedures are pretty simple. I had it done myself in a bit over 20 minutes...

    All the necessary procedures are listed in the owner manual clearly.

    - Patrick
  • pbroverpbrover Member Posts: 43
    Hello Discofun,

    Thanks again for your information. Looking at LR3's now!I really wanted a Disco 2004 HSE7, but they are still wanting a decent amount of change for them and when you combine the "atomic bomb" depreciation, I have moved to the LR3..looking at least.
  • stephen15stephen15 Member Posts: 1
    1996 Discovery 5spd. Not going into gear. Shifts through H N L and also seem to shift through all forward and reverse gears smoothly but yet it does not go into gear. When attempting reverse I hear a slight click. When I tried to move from 5th it vibrates very slightly on clutch release but does not move forward either. Car has been working fine. Can the stick shift have been disconnected some how? Any thoughts??
  • mstaplesmstaples Member Posts: 1
    Mine did the same thing, iMine was a .50 cent clip under the shifter! The Knarled black plactic cover on the shifter comes off to reveal a broken clip that allows the plunger to release and shift the transmission into gear and my Chevy dealer replaced it with a .50 part. HEADACHE trying to find.

    Hope this helps. :D
  • botat1botat1 Member Posts: 12
    service engine soon light came on, car drove normal. this lasted a few days, then the light went off. the light came back on and i have an appt to have it checked. this morning i get in the car, turn it on and step on the brake to put the car in gear. as i step on the brake my hand is on the gear shift lever. the car makes a clicking noise and the gear shift lever moves, like a small snap motion. this does not happen once the car is in gear, but does happen each time i step on the brake while the car is in park.
    does anyone out there have any idea what this can be? we will be seeing the dealer very soon.
  • discofundiscofun Member Posts: 26
    botat1,
    The click and feeling in the shift lever is the safety feature that releases the shift lever when you depress the brake pedal. This ensures the vehicle is secure when shifting out of park. Nothing sounds wrong with what you are seeing on this issue.

    The check engine light can be related to emissions issues resulting from a variety of items depending on year (valves, recall issue, sensors, etc.) probably not a huge issue but you should drop the dough to have the codes read.
  • botat1botat1 Member Posts: 12
    thank you for the response. its funny that i never noticed that click noise or the snap motion before though.
    that same morning the weather was very cold. i moved the car out of the garage and came into the house to tell my husband about the brake/shift thing and when he went out to look at it, we had a nice crack on the windshield as well!
    we don't see a rock mark where the crack is. its from the very top of the windshield by the rearview mirror and runs down and sideways toward the driver about 5 inches.
    we take care of rock damage to the windsheilds of all our cars right away, so this was a big surprise to us.
    well, we will deal with that too, thank you.
    we'll let you know what happens at the dealer$$$$$$$$
  • discofundiscofun Member Posts: 26
    botat1,
    The shift click was probably accentuated by the cold.
    That’s interesting about your windshield crack. I had a loaner ’04 Disco from the dealer the other day and it had a crack originating in the same location but ran down and then towards the passenger side and was about 18” long. I have read elsewhere in these threads about unexplained windshield cracks so maybe there is some predictable underlying fault here. I’m in Dallas so I can’t claim really cold weather as the cause ;-)
  • botat1botat1 Member Posts: 12
    The crack runs down and then towards the driver side, about 15" to 18", starts 3" left side of rear view mirror.We are in the bay area California, cold but not that cold,we will be replacing windshield next week.thanks again.
  • vanfan3vanfan3 Member Posts: 4
    I have a Disco TDI 5 2003. I have a problem with several warning lights coming on for no apparent reason at the same time (ABS, Off Road, Handbrake) and sometimes the ACE light comes on. If I stop, turn off the engine and then restart, the lights dont come on again and the problem may not recur for several days or weeks or a thousand miles. I can get no sense from my dealer on this who says I need new brakes and the problem will go away. My brakes dont need replacing yet and I know someone else who has replaced the brakes and the same problem has persisted. I am vey interested in who else is having problems with several warning lights including ABS illuminating intermittently
  • smiths65smiths65 Member Posts: 1
    So I am getting all of these lights coming on & staying on, same as dozens of other threads in this forum. Disco II, 2000, 66k. There is only one dealer here in Adelaide, Australia and he has run a diagnostic which gives fault code 11.4 (shuttle valve electrical failure). I have suggested that he manually tests wheel speed sensors, ABS sensors, wheel hub bearings etc (thanks to other responses in this forum)but he won't do that cos "the ABS system does this several times each minute anyway". He wants to gouge me for $A6,000 for a whole new ABS modulator. :mad: Any advise for a non-mechanical guy? Thanks, Matthew.
  • pismo10pismo10 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Disco II with 115,000 miles and have never had any problems. New brakes and tires at 65,000 miles (how did you ever let them talk you into new brakes at 15,000 miles?? You got robbed, I'll bet they through in rotors too for a nearly $1000 total job, my rotors are original BTWay.) oil, gas, nothing else. Everything still works, ac, power locks, power windows, everything is fine. Turn the key and go for 100,000+ miles with original everything except tires, brake pads, oil, and gas. Best car I have ever owned including GMs(worst), Fords, Toyotas, several Hondas (tied for first), Audis (very close second). Only problem with the Disco II is 15mpg.......
  • botat1botat1 Member Posts: 12
    We had the same problem about 2 years ago, we would stop , restart truck again, and lights would go away.The abs and hill decent control were the ones, several weeks or months would go by, and they would come on again. The dealer told us not to worry about it, and the lights went away.You got me on this one.Now we have the check engine light coming on and then off,every time we have an apointment with the dealer the light goes off, i want the diagnostic done when the light is on, they did tell us to stop driving if it starts flashing, 2001 disco 2 se7 68500 miles. :)
  • gilstrapgilstrap Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Disco II, and my lights (ABS, Decline, and Hand Brake) would come on as well. I had the brakes replaced, the codes checked, and the codes cleared. Still kept coming back.

    Finally narrowed down the ABS modulator, where I got three quotes from two dealers (the first was for US$1500, the second at the same dealer with a different service advisor was for US$3000!, the third from a different dealer was for US$1700). I had the modulator replaced and have had no problems for a year.

    Used ABS modulators are between US$700-900 plus labor, so my advise is to check around for best price and have it done at the dealer.
  • discomandiscoman Member Posts: 110
    Check your gas cap. Sometimes the rubber gasket can become worn or cracked and doesn't make a good seal. This will cause your light to come on too. Should be an inexpensive thing to change, and probably not a bad idea anyway.
  • 04tuna04tuna Member Posts: 1
    Hi, A friend of mine has a Discovery and I think it is an 03 or 04. She parks on a rather steep driveway and her brake light comes on when pulling up the drive to park and to back out. Light goes out afterwards. I assume that when she says brake light, she means ABS. She also says the brakes squeak a little when she stops. Now, I don't know about Discos, but I still have the original pads on my 91 chevy truck, so, I'm thinking that brake pads on a Disco should last longer than three years. I'm might look at them. But, she likes to take it to the dealership and they said that it probably needs pads and probably new rotors. NEW ROTORS? You got to be kidding me? She said that the dealership told her that the rotors can't be turned. I think this is a bunch of dooky. Can anyone confirm this? I think she is just low on fluid and the pads are a little warpped. Any thoughts?
  • pbroverpbrover Member Posts: 43
    Hello,

    I have the same problem as you. May I ask how you got it resolved?

    Thank you
  • lightcahilllightcahill Member Posts: 22
    Hi All. It is time to replace the original equipment Goodyears on my 2003 Disco. At 32,000 miles they are like racing slicks in the Colorado snow. Question is, what to replace them with?

    I have my eye on a set of Michelin XPC 4x4's, which are $224 each at Costco. Ouch! More than I would like to spend. Also looking at Yokohama Geolanders - G52. They are a bit less expensive.

    I have the SE with 18 inch wheels. Just about anything I buy will have to be ordered, as the 255/55 HR 18 size does not seem to be a stock item in tire stores around here.

    Does anyone have experience with either of these tires? Or, with other tires that have performed well? I need something that is good in the snow, good off road and good towing a 4,000 lb. trailer. I also do a lot of long distance highway driving, both with and without the trailer. I guess I am looking for the everything tire, and I know that does not exist. Any ideas? Thanks for your help.

    For the record, we are averaging 15.5 mpg over the 32K miles, (with some traier towing) and virtually no breakdowns or problems save for a burnt out lightbulb and a service engine soon warning light that was fixed quickly by Landrover Denver East quickly under warranty. One tough truck.

    Thanks.

    Pete.
  • mrsvw9mrsvw9 Member Posts: 1
    2001 Disco II. I got a remote starter/alarm installed and it works great but it will only start by remote when the doors are unlocked because the factory alarm doesn't allow starting if its armed. Does anyone know if a bypass module is available or does anyone have any information on remote starters on the Discovery? Thanks.
  • vandy2004vandy2004 Member Posts: 8
    Whenever I hit a pothole or speed bump, or anything more than uneven pavement, the left rear suspension makes a creaking noise - like an old dodge truck with worn out front ball joints.

    What could be causing this? When I check it out I don't see anything that could be causing a noise.

    Any ideas.
  • acollins31acollins31 Member Posts: 1
    I replaced my Goodyears with Michelin Cross Terrain. I paid $179 for 16". Great traction, smooth ride, and very quiet. I have been very pleased.
  • lightcahilllightcahill Member Posts: 22
    Thanks for the info on the Michelin Cross Terrain tires. I looked at them and at another Michelin light truck tire, as well as Yokohama Geolander G52's.

    Unfortunately, a set of four, mounted and balanced, was running close to or above $900. I then found a Cooper tire on the internet that sounded like it might work. It is the P255/55r18 Discover HT Plus. Just a plain blackwall light truck tire. A set of four at the local tire store cost $619, mounted and balanced, out the door. I don't buy the "tire insurance," which would have been an additional $80.

    I only have 27 miles on the tires as of this evening, but they seem, at least to my imagination, to ride a bit smoother and quieter than the original equipment Goodyear Wranglers, which lasted just about 32K miles. I guess that only time will tell. Normally, I am very partial to Michelin tires for any car, but I just choked at the price, even at Costco. Thanks again.

    Pete.
  • millermbmillermb Member Posts: 6
    Try Bridgestone Blizzak tires. They might be a little more than what you indicated the Michelin & Yoko's would be. They're the best in ice and snow and regular driving for that matter. A man I work with has them. I don't need tires at this point, but that's what the replacements will be. We live at the bottom tip of Lake Michigan and have prenty of ice & snow. You might try eBay, as there are some good buys on Blizzak tires, if you're patient.
  • millermbmillermb Member Posts: 6
    If it's not beneath you, do it yourself! Changing them is simple. If interested, I located a website that took it step by step with pictures. Ours is 2001 SE7 and it took maybe 30-45 minutes on each corner. I ordered the pads from British Pacific. I'd be happy to find the website for you.
  • lightcahilllightcahill Member Posts: 22
    Hi Millermb,

    Thanks for the pointers on Blizzaks. I have Blizzaks on my other car, which is a 1994 BMW 325is coupe. Before I got the Blizzaks I would not dream of taking it out of the garage in any kind of snow. The Blizzaks do wonders, and I don't hesitate to take it out in snow up to about 6 inches deep. The best thing about the Blizzaks is how well they stop in the snow. My son also has them on his Jeep Cherokee.

    For the Disco I wanted an all-season tire, which is one reason why I did not go with the Blizzaks. The other reason would have been price. I am sure that a set for 18" wheels would have cost a bundle, and then I would still have to buy summer tires anyway.

    The Coopers, by the way, have been good so far. Compared to the original equipment Goodyears, they are quieter, smoother, and track straighter. I ran them in light snow over the weekend. They seemed glued to the road, but there was not really enough to "test" them.

    Thanks again.

    Pete.
  • vanfan3vanfan3 Member Posts: 4
    In my case, the dealer confirmed yesterday that there is a fault in the ABS Modulator and this will be replaced under warranty. I am grateful to the correspondent that suggested this might be the cause as I was able in turn to suggest this to the service manager who had been in denial until now. The part will be replaced in a few weeks. I will post a message if this doesnt solve the problem
  • millermbmillermb Member Posts: 6
    I had a remote start installed on my wife's 2001 DII and were having the same problem. The installer is clueless! In our case, when you start it remotely, it unlocks the doors and you can't lock them, which defeats the security issue! Hopefully your installer will have a solution that I can share with mine! In the meantime if I find a one I'll let you know.
  • discoiidiscoii Member Posts: 1
    Could you please forward that website to me also? I have no interest in paying $1300 for a brake job that my local dealership is so adamant about. Also, they tell me that I'll need a full brake job every 10k to 15k?? That's like 6 months! It can't be right.
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