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Toyota Land Cruiser Maintenance and Repair
I just hit 30k miles on my 2003 LandCruiser and called the nearest dealer to ask about the 30k mile check up or maintenance.
They quoted me $699, which seems ridiculously high. Is this really needed or will I be just fine with regular oil changes, etc.
They quoted me $699, which seems ridiculously high. Is this really needed or will I be just fine with regular oil changes, etc.
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Steve, Host
One caution if you do these lube changes yourself on the TCase and diffs, undo the fill plug BEFORE the drain plugs. Last thing you want is to drain all the oil and find that you can't get the fill plugs loose! Also, a cheap alternative to a tranny flush is to drain the pan only and refill with fresh trans fluid about every 10K
HTH
Can I bring my Toyota back? What kind of standards must it meet. I have done much work on it, and can still do some more.
Any ideas?
I just had a 90K service performed on my 2000 LC. You can expect to pay around $1,000 with the timing belt replacement. However, if it needs a water pump and/or other work...add some more $$.
I tend to do most of my own intermediate work and have the dealer/mechanics do the 15K/30K interval services. The 90K seems to be pretty important because of the timing belt.
Scott
I don't see a timing belt replacement recommendation for the '01 for any mileage; if someone has the manual handy who can quote the recommendation, I'll pass it along so the guide can be updated. Thanks.
BTW, Lexus service around here is $95/hour; Toyota service is $65/hour. How do you think the Lexus shop pays for all the "free" food & drink and the leather chairs in the waiting room?
The trouble began when I bought a new trailer to haul my ATV's. I wired the tail lights/turn signals up to the trailer (correctly), and they worked for about 2 minutes, but I blew a fuse on the tail light circuit. I replaced the fuse twice even with the tail light harness unplugged but as soon as I turn the light switch on the fuse blows.
I tracked the wire fron the fuse box up behind the instrument panel to a junction connector and it had obviously melted. I replaced the wire but now the engine will start but runs incredibly bad or rough. Here are some of the strange symptoms that are now occuring.
If the rear wiring harness is not plugged in to the main harness the engine will not start.
If you take the signal light hot wire and tie it to the negative or ground the engine starts and idles smoothly( but it will not run at highway speed)
While the engine is running if you press the brake pedal the engine will imediately die, unless you remove the brake light bulbs.
FYI The ac compressor quit working about 2 months ago.
I have driven myself crazy trying to figure this problem out and I am afraid to take to a pro because I am sure the repair charge would be astronomical.
Your help would be deeply appreciated.
Steven
The US Customs has some good information on this.
I used to live in Hudson County. I tried a number of dealerships for my 2002 LC. Rt 22 Toyota in Hilside ripped me off for a 30K service on my RAV4. Manhattan toyota was a rip off too. However, I have done the last couple of services at Hudson Toyota and I am really satisfied. What I like most about my service adviser Fortunato is that he NEVER tries to sell me crap service that I don't need. My 2002 LC will be due for a 60K servie in the next couple of month. I am debating weather to use an independend mechanic or not, but I don't want to mess up a 30K car to save 200 bucks and I might just end up going to the dealer.
I have also heard that in dealerships they have a few senior techs but most of the work is done by new trainees so I am a bit concerned of that as well.
If you really want to find a good independend mechanic, I have used cartalk.com's mechanic files to search by zip code. Again this is based on feedback from posters so you have to take it with a grain of salt and use your own judgement.
Steve/Host it will be great if you guys could get a thread going on independent shops.
Land Cruiser Dealer & Service Experiences
First: You'll need a sutiable floor jack, and jack stands, gear lube oil per owner's manual specs (note: I just switched over to Redline synthetic 75-90 API GL- 5 in TCase and both differentials: reference Redline customer service info@redlineoil.com or call toll-free at (800) 624-7958)
Capcities: Front diff 1.8 US qts, transfer case 1.4 US qts, rear diff 3.5 US qts
Torque specs: drain/fill plug F&R diff 36 ft lbs, TCase, 27 ft lbs
Jacking: There are two "under engine" covers in the front of the vehicle. One is metal and the other is "plastic". In the center of the metal one, at the rear edge of it, is a large circle. This is between the two front wheel suspension components. I put a rubber insert in the jack saddle, but a piece of wood will work as well. Place the jack saddle here and raise the front end to the desired height and place your jack stands where you want them. I place mine just behind the back of the plastic engine cover on the frame rails. The rear jacking point is the rear diff. Again, jack to desired height and place the jack stands on the frame.
Once jacked and on stands you can see the rear diff, but you'll need to remove the plastic under engine cover to get proper access to the front diff and tcase. Once you remove all of the bolts, it drops down exposing the front diff etc. With front jack stands in place, I find it easier to slide the cover to the rear, then remove it from under the vehicle.
This is a good time to lube your propeller shaft sleeve yokes at each end-one to the diff and on to the TCase. There are grease fittings at each end of the propeller shafts. I put about a haf of a pump in to each fitting for the differentials, but only about quarter pump or less in to the ends that go to the tcase. While it's all right to pump until you see some grease come of the fittings on the ends to the diffs, you DON'T want to do that for the TCase fittings. Lubing these points gets rid of or greatly reduces the drive shaft "clunk" mentioned on this forum from time to time. Also, while you're under there, you might want to spray some silicone spray or other suitable product on exposed suspension mountings (e.g. sway bar attachement points etc) to address any squeaks or prevent them if you don't have them.
Since the rear is the larger of the diffs and most accessible, it's a good one to do first, to get the feel of draining and changing the gear lube. If facing the diff from the front, you'll notice one 24mm nut directly in front of you and another 24mm to the lower right. The top one is the fill plug and the lower one is the drain. Note: loosen the drain plug FIRST. You don't want to drain the oil and then find you've got a problem with your fill plug! Then undo the drain plug and drain the old oil. Replace the drain plug and re-fill the diff via the fill hole. A simple hand pump is all you need to pump the new oil in. As the oil reaches the proper level, you'll noitce the oil starting to drip from the fill hole, when it does, remove the tube from the hole and re-install the fill plug. (You can double check the level by putting your finger in the fill hole.) One down and two to go!
The transfer case drain and fill plugs are to the front and left. As with the rear diff, these are also 24mm. And, as with the rear, undo the fill plug FIRST. Drain, re-fill etc as with the rear.
The front diff uses 10mm hex plugs for draining and filling. The fill plug is up and to the right, the drain is on the bottom right. Undo the fill plug first and then the drain. Re-insert and tighten the drain plug, then add the new oil and re-insert the fill plug.
That's it! Re-install the plastic under engine cover. Remove your jack stands and lower the vehicle. After draining and filling the diffs and tcase, it's a good idea to do drive a short distance and turn the vehicle to the right and left: i.e. weave back and forth a bit.
HTH
Sorry for the confusion
Any way for you to slide a narrow bladed implement in there and push in the disk that's protruding? A standard table knife?
HTH
I no longer have the '94 or its service manuals, but I seem to recall the sunroof drains can get clogged and lead to some interior moisture issues. Sounds odd, but IIRC the drains travel a rather convuluted route with in the body structure.
Side note:
A common leakage problem on some FJ80 models is that the seams of the body will allow water to seep in when raining. The seams in question are above the doors. Some have used silicone sealant as a workaround solution.
I have a 2000 LC and water from a self-serve automated car wash will poor in past the top seal of the upper tail gate and soak my cargo area. This is the only car wash in my area that will do this to my LC. I've tried this car-wash three times (with a cargo liner in place) and each time a high pressure wash nozzle will align perfectly and force water past the seal. All of the other car washes in my area, including similar self-serves will not do what this one particular car wash will do.
All I can figure, it's a fluke that the wash equipment at this car-wash, my vehicle dimension, and the car-wash's guided parking all align perfectly to give my LC the "Perfect Storm" of a car wash
Here's what I use
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=59
HTH
After 84,000 miles the beast refused to shift out of park mode.
I read the manual and located the override button to get it to shift to drive but the lights (ABS),(VSC TRACK)and (VSC OFF) are all ON.
I am heading to the dalership tomorrow $$ Any advice from a similar case?
Thank you,
I think is time to invest in a OBDII scan tool.
One of the reasons I declined was because I found the brake booster from Toyota.com for $1,442.62 and also I knew there was nothing wrong with the brakes at this point. Anyway I just drove out my LC out of the service department and everything is normal. I am very sad because I could have authorized the $2,500 repair and be scammed again. I drove 10 + miles to work and the TLC is perfect.
My total paid was $92.31 for the diagnostic fee and labor to replace a $2.08 fuse which I still need to find the location because I did not found any blown fuse last night.
I hope this will help someone out there with a similar problem.
MG