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Toyota Land Cruiser Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mikeschoonovermikeschoonover Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Land Cruiser, 6 cyl. 24-valve. There's a combination metal tube and rubbber hose that comes off a t-connector in the top middle of the firewall. It connects somewhere under the intake manifold. It's tough to see, but it's leaking coolant. I was quoted 2.3 hours to fix at over $460. They're calling it a by-pass hose (heater?). Anyone have experience with it? Thanks!
  • vermavvermav Member Posts: 1
    On my 1995 Landcruiser's Upper tailgate, the long black Landcruiser plate is beginning to come off. Any ideas about what I can use to either glue it back on? Obviously, the adhesive needs to be real industrial strengtrh. Thanks for the advice in advance.

    vkv
  • landcruiser76landcruiser76 Member Posts: 2
    I recently bought a 1995 Landcruiser and have had to replace nearly every engine seal and front differential seal. It has 150,000 miles on it. I wasn't sure if this is normal at this mileage? I've given the toyota dealer so far 3,000 bucks! When they replaced the rear main seal they didn't align the fly wheel correctly so it's back at the dealer and they are trying to fix that. I wish i knew of a great independant Landcruiser mechanic in Kansas. I'm guessing at one point this vehicle must of just sat for long periods of time and the seals dried up. The last seal i need to replace they said is the oil pan seal and quoted me 389.00 for it. Is that about normal?
  • landcruiser76landcruiser76 Member Posts: 2
    I didn't think the 1996 landcruiser had a timing belt. I know the dealer i go through on my 95 landcruiser told me its' a timing chain not a belt and not to worry about it.
  • bulletheadbullethead Member Posts: 40
    Have a 2000 TLC with 88k on it - owned it since new and have never taken it into a dealer for maint since the warranty expired.... did the 90k maint, including T-belt & h2o pump, plus two o2 sensors for approx $1600... I am in Columbus Ohio
  • bulletheadbullethead Member Posts: 40
    Have a 2000 TLC with 88k on it - owned it since new and have never taken it into a dealer for maint since the warranty expired.... did the 90k maint, including T-belt & h2o pump, plus two o2 sensors this past July... car sits at the airport 2 weeks/month as I work in the UK 50% of the time... last time I got into the car after a trip, approx 2 weeks ago, I noticed that the power door lock on the driver side would not lock - the other doors locked as expected, but the drive door just made a soft squeak and did move into the lock position... fast forward 2 week and I now see the driver side door lock move just slightly when I lock the doors using the driver side door lock button or the key fob... more movement than previously, but still not working - my mechanic tells me I need an "actuator"... have not even ventured tocall the dealer to inquire the cost of the part... used parts companies tell me they only sell the entire door. for $1K, not parts thereof, unless they have a damaged door... anyone else have this issue and if so, what did you do? At worst, I can leave it as is and use the key to lock the thing, but the perfectionist in me goes crazy when something isn't working....

    Thanks.. now I will go take my Zoloft...
  • vavavavolvovavavavolvo Member Posts: 110
    I can't imagine it would be anywhere near $1000 to have the dealer do it. I could be wrong.
  • pgillpgill Member Posts: 84
    I have a 2004 TLC and had the same exact problem few months ago. I had to replace the power door lock actuator and latch assembly. The part number is 69040-60191 and the list price when I purchased it was $243.73. I purchased it through an online OEM parts source for $182.80. Including labor, it cost about $250 to replace...not cheap, but still less than $1,000 you are looking at from used parts companies.
  • bulletheadbullethead Member Posts: 40
    Many thanks for the info - I too bought a replacement part on-line for $169.00 from Cruiser Parts in New Hampshire - now I just have to have it installed Thanks again
  • bulletheadbullethead Member Posts: 40
    Anyone have any experience replacing this unit - mine went on the blink just this morning....
  • vavavavolvovavavavolvo Member Posts: 110
    We just talked about this a little while ago. Do a search on this forum.
  • bethgimelbethgimel Member Posts: 17
    I'm wondering if anyone can tell me which fuses are for the turn signals and tail lights of the '99 LC tow package. I'm trying to hook up a trailer, and the turn signals work but not the tail lights. Ideally, I would like to find a schematic to give to my mechanic. Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks!
  • bethgimelbethgimel Member Posts: 17
    This (very belated) response is for 95cruiser... Just want to say I'm sorry for not responding in a timely manner. I do get notified by email when there are new posts on this forum, so I don't know what happened! Hope you resolved your problem! For what it's worth, yes, your problem does sound similar to the one I had, related to the fan clutch.

    As a postscript to my saga about Toyota and Lexus dealerships in So. California, I have sworn off them forever. The last insult was that Lexus charged me close to $200 for a diagnostic, and left all the components under my hood without bolts or screws! (Sorry, I'm a stupid consumer, so I don't have the correct nomenclature here.) I just found out about this a month ago. There was a terrible rattling noise under the hood which an independent mechanic told me was caused by the fact that none of the parts was securely bolted in place. Some had one bolt when they should have had four, some had ordinary household screws holding them in instead of automotive bolts, and my water container was just WEDGED IN without any fastener at all! I was going to call Lexus and try to get my money back but the indy mechanic told me that the dealerships harass guys like him all the time, so he didn't want to get involved. Anyway, I'm glad to be out of the dealer racket!
  • bethgimelbethgimel Member Posts: 17
    If anyone has or knows where I can purchase a repair manual for the 1999 LC, please let me know! Or, if you have one but don't want to sell it, would you look something up for me?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    You could try the links in the Online Repair Manuals guide until another LC owner shows up.
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    I don't come on as much as I used to, so I hope you've gotten this resolved. This is (unfortunately) not an uncommon problem. Believe it's actually under the exhaust manifold. I had to replace it on my '94 and it REALLY is a PAIN! It's a heater hose.

    It's a very small hose in length and it does seem to take forever to get to it and to actually replace it. I've seen some people remove the manifold in order to get to it. Fortunately, I didn't have to do that on mine :)
  • kcushmankcushman Member Posts: 3
    Hooked up the trailer wires-the wrong way- and when I got back into the 00LC (110k) the abs, trac, and stab lights were on. Could not shift w/o depressing the contol lock by the auto lever. Assumed it was a fuse blown but do not know how to check those square fuses. Any help? My mechanic wants $111 to diagnos this.
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    Fuses are located on the driver's side of the engine bay, about mid-way between the battery tray and the firewall. (Black plastic 'box" on top of the wheel well) Open the top and look at the fuses--if any of the metallic strips are broken, the fuse is blown.

    HTH
  • kcushmankcushman Member Posts: 3
    The fuses that control those items are not the typical fuse that you can visually inspect, they are big (1x1 colored plastic with no visable link).
  • kcushmankcushman Member Posts: 3
    The problem was solved by replacing a 15a fuse for the break lights found under the dash.
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    Good! Glad you got it resolved.
  • vavavavolvovavavavolvo Member Posts: 110
    Anyone have any experience with getting a windshield replaced on a 100 series? I am wondering about OEM glass vs what I would get from national chain recommended by the insurance co. I believe the 05 and later has a green tint on all glass, while the national chain windowglass shops only supply a bronze tint. Also, I seem to remember some kind of water repellant feature of the windshield glass with the OEM version.

    Any comments or suggestions would be welcomed.

    Thanks.
  • mako6mako6 Member Posts: 1
    Hi Guys, I have a Landcruiser Amazon 2001. I took it to the (UK) Toyota dealer for a 70,000 mile service and asked them to try and fix the automatic steering wheel lifter (the wheel is supposed to activate its pre-set position automatically when the key is inserted but this now does not function) they say there are a few vehicles driving around like this at the moment and asked if I can live with it. They want it back for another look. Any suggestions to help would be great and I could advise them as I am definitely not mechanically minded. My limitations are oil, fluids and tyre pressures. Thanks.
  • 4toys4toys Member Posts: 14
    My 1995 landcruiser has some play or slack in the steering. Is there an adjustment or replacement issue to tighten up the steering?
  • sarah26sarah26 Member Posts: 2
    I have a '91 right hand drive prado lancruiser (imported it from Japan) and I'm living in Ontario but can't find parts for it anywhere in town (specifically a gasket/0-ring that needs to be replaced on the fuel injector pump). Does anyone know of someone in Canada (or the States) I can order parts from? thanks!
  • sarah26sarah26 Member Posts: 2
    Mine is the same (91 landcruiser), I've taken it to a few different mechanics in the past and they've said that everything is fine. Has it always been like that or is it new?
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Here is a Man A Fre link title I am they can either track it down for you, or recommend a CN source. Reputedly Toyota USA taps them for restoration work, design subcontracting, etc. etc. You might want to goggle others also.
  • 4toys4toys Member Posts: 14
    It has always been like that. Just feels like it should be tighter. I love this car but would like a better steering feel. I really don't know if it is suppose to be this loose or if I should take it to mechanic to see if anything is wrong.
  • maartenmaarten Member Posts: 5
    Hello Sarah 26;

    Ever heard of GS CRUISERPARTS ? www.gscruiserparts.com or for a real Landcruiser specialist go to www.all-american.nl and go to the contact details.

    Is your Prado a turbodiesel or petrol / gasoline version ? I have a KZJ77 wich is a Prado 3 litre Turbodiesel.

    With best regards, Maarten
  • maartenmaarten Member Posts: 5
    Hello Mako6,

    Its mostly the electric motor that runs the steering colomn. With a bit of bad luck its both motors.
    Partnumbers are; # 89231-60022 for the tilt motor and # 89232-60022 for the telescopic motor. these are the newest partnumbers as both items have been modified twice since introduction in 1998.

    Hope this works for you. Maarten
  • hprjrhprjr Member Posts: 24
    I have a 2001 LC with 121,000 miles. It seems that the toyota dealerships are not performing the re-packing the front bearings as required by the maintenance book every 30k unless requested. What are you other owners experiecing with this, and ard are there any bearing issues as a result? Thanks for any help.
  • ajmarton1ajmarton1 Member Posts: 1
    I bought my neighbor's 1999 Land Cruiser for next to nothing. It has 190k miles (perfect cosmetically) but recently developed a blown head gasket I think (reason for the price). The exhaust is white and the engine shutters until it warms up. So I need a local WLA mechanic to take a look at the engine and see if I can afford to fix it or whether I will just flip or part it out. Appreciate any suggestions.
  • bulletheadbullethead Member Posts: 40
    Been a while since I last posted (a good thing) - my one-owner 2000 TLC, 96k miles, full 90k maint done, new wheels/tires, etc, with a fresh detail job and ready to be sold to the next owner, surprised me today with a "check engine / VSC-Trac, VSC-Off" - the owners manual simply states "have your vehicle checked by a Toyota dealer ASAP" - any idea as to the scope of "issues" that relate to this warning? Many thanks in advance

    JR
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    Check fuses, 02 sensor?
  • maartenmaarten Member Posts: 5
    Could be one of your ABS sensors. On some models when the traction control fails for one or another reason the engine output is reduced to avoid high speed problems.

    Feedback on the cause of your specific problem is much appreciated.

    Maarten
  • derrickbderrickb Member Posts: 2
    OK, this is a gem and wouldn't let it go ever! 250,000 miles and runs like new. However, last night driving the head lamps/dash lights began pulsing --the Oil, ABS, A/T, and Voltage RED light all came on and the volts were at 18+. Never happened before other than I've noticed at idle the volts were dropping and the lights would dim. My 1st thought is the alternator/voltage regulator? It is the original!
    Any ideas?
    Derrick
  • jbc111jbc111 Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 2006 LC from a Lexus dealership after having it evaluated by my Toyota dealer with a good check-up. The LC has 80k miles. I have experienced a problem with the truck from the 1st month I had it and it involves a huge "thunk" noise either just before I come to a complete stop and/or just as I'm accelerating from a complete stop. I've had the dealer look at it and he tells me this is normal as the LCs have a little slip room in the drivetrain and it is normal to experience a thud that sometimes feels like you're tapped from behind by another car when stopping. This noise is VERY noticeable and EXTREMELY annoying. I've had the drivetrain pulled and the yokes lubed and it did not help. That solution did help the same problem that I had with a 2002 4-Runner, but not this LC. PLEASE HELP.
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    Did Toyota do this service for you? What you describe is somewhat typical. But......did you have only one drive shaft pulled, or both? Sometimes the grease fittings that connect to the T Case can be over filled and this can add to this problem.

    With two differentials, two drive shafts and 4 yokes, there are lots of moving parts. Have you checked the torque of the nuts at each end of the drive shafts and all other undercarriage fasteners? Do you have running boards installed? Check those nuts.
    HTH
  • knaranjoknaranjo Member Posts: 2
    I just had a problem with my car,Perhaps someone can help me fix it or give me an idea what it can be.. My abs light went on and the brake light went one..both of them are on and i do not have brakes... ( i went ahead and checked if brake were gone but they are perfect) a friend said it can be the the "brake master cylinder" Please if someone know's anything Please help or advise.. thanks

    God Bless
    Kev
  • zaxizaxi Member Posts: 5
    I am driving with the light on for the last 4 years,
    I had similar problem, my are locking every once in a while when I start moving from Stop sign or red light. and the lights come on.
    This problem don't show up on the computer, so it is hard to diagnose .
    In my opinion the front rotors need to be replaced.
    I don't think it is the pump or the master cylinder.
    But your brakes are fine it is only the ABS function that is not working.
    not a big deal unless you are on snow or wet road.
    It can be very expensive because the "morons" at the dealership will start changing anything in the car untill they figure out what cause the problem.
    This is why I drive the that and I even pass the inspection twice.
    Let me know if you find out something else.
  • knaranjoknaranjo Member Posts: 2
    so i took it to the dealer and the did the check up and came out to be it was the ABS PUMP MOTOR they advised it would cost $3230.94 .(i almost doped dead) . I currently do not have brakes.. just a little when i push it all the way down... i am trying to find out where i can purchase abs pump to do the work...
  • derrickbderrickb Member Posts: 2
    I really need some help here with my LC. I posted last month with the original problem but now an update. After replacing the Alternator I now have more problems. Now the Voltage light, Oil light and A/T transmission light is on. Before they would go on and off and the volatge meter would go up and down. Now the light stay on solid and the voltage meter is steady at over 16 volts. The only time the lights go off is when you let off the gas and the rpm's drop below 500. TOuch the gas and the lights come right back on. Took it to a battery/alternator shop and they said the Alternator is bad (brand new alternator) so I am stuck. I don't want to spend another $250.00 on a alternator and blow it up. I don't think it is the alterantor since I can still drive it now and the battery is charging. Can anyone give some guidance on what could be causing this issue> I am willing to donate if you have a pay-pal account or other transaction via the internet.
    THanks Derrick
    dbratton5@gmail.com
  • 4toys4toys Member Posts: 14
    I too just bought a 2006 Landcruiser and it has the same problem with the "clunk" noise in the drive shaft somewhere. Was your problem fixed at the dealer?
  • 4toys4toys Member Posts: 14
    I bought a 2006 Landcruiser and it has a clunk noise in the drive line when I am coming to a stop or just accelerating. The noise appears to be worse if I am stopping on a hill. I saw a post that someone has the same problem and wondered if the dealer was able to fix the problem.
  • bulletheadbullethead Member Posts: 40
    2000 TLC - 99k miles, with the top-to-bottom 90k maint already done

    ...this has to be some sort of regular thing that can be "addressed" easily - here is the scenario.... was backing out of the driveway this AM - came to a stop after backing out, turned the wheel and stepped on the gas a little, but the tranny was not in "D", but instead in "N"...... with my 3 yr and 5 yr old carrying on in the back seat, i did not notice the engine was reving slighty, so when I pushed the tranny from "N" to "D", the result was a "clunk" when the reving engine met the tranny .. the warning lights came on just then... stopped the truck, turned it off and restarted it... drove a mile to karate practice - it sat for an hour and I then drove back home... the lights are still on, but me thinks it is something that can be addressed - last time it was the O2 sensor.... which I replaced.... any ideas?

    Thanks
  • serenade95serenade95 Member Posts: 1
    My 96 LC fan belt make loud noise on starup and disappeared a minute later. I replace a new set of belt, new idle and pulley and have the same problem. Can any one let me know how to fix this problem.
    Thanks,
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    Have you lubed the drive shaft yokes for both front and rear? And check the torque.

    The drive shaft "clunk" is fairly common and is usually solved by lubing at each end.

    HTH
  • bulletheadbullethead Member Posts: 40
    Error code P1120 - Accelerator Pedal Position sensor error - car started up, ck engine light appeared and while the car was runnning, pressing the gas pedal did nothing in terms of rev'ing the engine.... turned the car off, restarted it and waalaa! all is back to normal - the frequency of this happeing is approx 1x/ month, or every 500 miles... got a quote from the local foreign repair joint - $parts $700, labor $300.... my old mechanic says more like $350 with a used part installed.... am going that route
  • profinityprofinity Member Posts: 5
    My 99 TLC is GREAT except for an intermittent problem I have been experiencing for a few months. From a full stop the vehicle appears to have no problem getting up to speed. Then once at speed, stepping on the accelerator does NOTHING until you push it about 75% to the floor. Once I push the pedal close to the floor the vehicle begins to accelerate. I have noticed that stopping and restarting often corrects the problem and the vehicle again drives normally. This appears to be an electronics issue to me however I seek the advice of others here with experience. I have also observed that using the cruise control to accelerate does NOT experience the acceleration problem as I do when using the accelerator pedal. I have changed out the throttle position sensor with a new OEM sensor and the problem still exists. I have spoken with a Toyota dealer about the problem and they don't know. I once read about the same problem on the internet that someone else was experiencing but can not recall the outcome. Any knowledge here is appreciated.
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    Have you tried changing your fuel filter? And brand of gas? Do you run regular or premium?

    Fuel injector service done? Throttle body cleaned?

    HTH
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