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Cadillac Deville: Problems & Solutions
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NOTHING HAPPENS WHEN ATTEMPTING TO START. THERE IS NO NOISE MADE AND THE BATTERY IS GOOD.
IS IT MY STARTER?
an injector (or more than one) may be leaking, allowing fuel to leak into a cylinder again causing overrich and hard start.
You should be running the 'pills' in the cooling system. These are available at Cadillac and I'm pretty sure your car has a sticker on the plastic cover over the radiator that gives the GM part number for these. About $8 for 6. Do not put them in the surge tank under the radiator cap. There is not adequate flow there to move them throughout the system. You should pull a radiator hose loose and put 3 to 6 pills in there. If you go this far, you should just pull the lower hose and drain the system, refilling with long-life antifreeze and water, 50/50 mix. The 'pill' which has ground gensen root (no lie, this is what is in it) is about the only thing that can help. It will fill and close off very minor leaks. But if the head bolts start to loosen, the head gasket is going to leak, the car will run hot, hot, hot and something major will have to be done -replace the motor or replace the gaskets (do both of them since the motor is pulled) and timeserting the head bolts.
While trying to install an aftermarket stereo ( why, I'll never know)the digital dash suddenly went out. Any ideas what happened? Where does he start? Hopefully, he isn't looking at a major repair job
If anyone has an idea, a solution, or any suggestions on this problem. Please post.
Thanks in advance
-Ram84
SURE, a mechanic and you could come up with a maintenance checklist for a "60,000 mile make-over". That's a great time to do belts and hoses and transmission service, flush out the brake system, coolant flush, rotate tires, test the suspension, maybe swap out the 02 sensors and give the water pump a good look-over.
The problem with putting in a new engine, is that it's still in an old car.
I would think, at a minimum, the 'computer' of a 1999 would not support a 2000 motor - with different sensors, and associated wiring differences, being possible.
It might be possible to make this change. Your dealer probably doesn't want to get into such a job, one which is not covered in any service manual and might have multiple incompatibities which would not be obvious. And impossible to develop an accuracy cost estimate for the job. So, why attempt it. The mechanics in the shop probably have plenty of other work rather than taking on a 'hot-rod' type of motor swap.
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I own a '97 DeVille in exceptional condition except that the NS engine has blown a Head Gasket. I have since given the car to my son and helping to locate an engine. I'm wondering if anyone out there knows if a newer year engine can go in to replace the '97 engine, and if so, does anything on the engine need to be changed to '97
Mike
is still running. My 96 Deville had 110k miles
but needed those $2500 front electric struts
replaced which were a dealer only item at the time.
So it went bye-bye..........
My 03 has been troublefree and now has 41k miles !
No problems doing 100k miles here !!!!!!!!!!
im having trouble getting it started up as i bought it at a garage sell and the distributor has been loosened and turned im not sure the previous owner didn't try to work on it and did not get the plug wires back in the proper sequence any help would be appreciated thank you in advance... just learning in alaska
Standing in FRONT of the car, #1 cylinder on the distributor cap is at the 2 O'Clock position and #8 is at 3 o'clock. Timing marks are just over the pulley on a little tab and read 0 5 10, with 0 at the bottom and 10 at the top. Plug gap is .35, point gap is .16, dwell angle is 30, ignition time at idle is 5 degrees BTDC, valves are hydraulic and not adjustable, plug type is AC # 44
I have no leaks, checked parking space at work, no drips, and I have the garage floor covered in brown paper under the engine to easily be able to check for any leaks, no drips.
I have also had to add coolant twice in the past 6 weeks, not a lot, but enough for the "check" light to come on. The car has never run hot, never over-heated, and is immaculate under the hood.
Before I take it into the shop, can anyone tell me what they think my problem might be? I don't trust my dealer, as I have had "issues" with them in the past over repairs (like an $800 break job, for which they only replaced the front breaks, not the back - which they did not tell me until the job was complete and I was trying to get my car- just one of several horror stories with Sewell). I would appreciate any suggestions, just so I don't get taken to the bank again. THANKS!
Oil use? Bad gasket usually does not cause this. Maybe you just suddenly also had the 'sticky rings' problem which causes significant oil usage. And can sometime be reduced by 'blowing out the motor' with several high-rpm runs out on the road.
But with a possible head gasket problem, I don't know if I would do this. Unless you want to go ahead and verify a leaky head gasket. If so, whomp the heck out of the car. It if starts to overheat, I think it has a failed gasket.
I don't know what "sticky rings" are? Would you explain more? Is there anything other than the drive that I can do which would help this problem? Again, thanks, as you can tell, I don't know all about car problems.
And I've read this is not always successful.
Stuck/carbon rings usually result from 'careful' or constant speed driving.
Several 'red-line' runs through the gears, up to about 100mph, can many times greatly reduce oil usage.
But I think I would first try to find the missing coolant. It could be leaking onto the hot motor and boiling off. Or a leaking heater core might spill fluid inside the car on the carpet. It these, and most other cases, you should use your nose to smell for leaking antifreeze. It has a destinctive sweet smell. If no leak, the it may be burning it past leaking head gasket.
Shifty the Host
Thanks,
Randy
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
also my security light comes on when I turn off the car but if I reach inside the window and unlock/open the door nothing goes off (horn etc)
any help would be appreciated
Take the car out and run it floored. Let it hit all the max rpm 's in each gear. You will probably see lots of black smoke coming out the tail pipes. Do this several times. Let it coast down after each run-up, this also helps break the rings loose.
I'm not responsible for possible speeding tickets, since this process should take you up to 90mph or so each time, which is probably only the shift point from 3rd to 4th gear. 3rd might even take you past 90mph.
Anyway, the only other procedure (and your dealer should know about this) is to use a 'kit' (cleaner, adapters for removing cleaner, etc) and process documented by CAdillac. It pours a cleaner into the cylinders thru plug holes, let it set, vacumn it out, run the car, change the oil, run cleaner thru it again, run it, change oil again.
If these won't move, it sure sounds like a manual linkage problem to me. There are lots of little metal rods, clips, levers, etc in there. In 32 years stuff wears out, breaks, or comes unclipped.
You are going to have to pull door panels and visualy inspect this sucker. A power actuator (just a big reostat) might be dead or jammed, but I would think the manual button would still work....